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Thread: Need some schooling in nitrous
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12-20-2015, 03:48 PM #1
Need some schooling in nitrous
I will be purchasing this kit below within the next month or so but I have many questions knowing nothing about nitrous. Some of my big main concerns are building up pressure in the bottle heating it up and everything along the lines, cause I really don't want a bottle explosion. Another question is would you think the stock fuel pump will hold up with 100 shot of nitrous. I'm sure I will have more questions as the comments come. Thanks I'm adavance.
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/gm-93-9...te-system.html
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12-20-2015, 03:59 PM #2Lurker
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- Rob Warrick
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You should be fine with the 100 shot and stock pump I ran a 100 shit with it. Just don't take a torch to the bottle a bottle heater from nitrous outlet would be good to help bottle pressure and get the blow down tube from them with the pressure blow of disk
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12-20-2015, 05:55 PM #3InActive Member
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Don't leave the bottle in the car in the heat.....
1996 camaro Z28, Clayton racing 398, Rossler TH350 rmvb with brake, FTI billet race converter 4400, Dana S60 with 4.10's, 300 shot, Accel DFI controlled, UMI, Spohn, PA racing, QA1's, Baer brakes, 325/45/17 M&H, Caged, Corbeau's, Simpson, etc.
From zero to fuck yeah in 3 seconds.
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12-20-2015, 10:55 PM #4
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12-20-2015, 10:58 PM #5
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12-21-2015, 12:01 AM #6
And now that I am looking will I need to port my stock throttle body also ?
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12-21-2015, 07:52 AM #7Lurker
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Ask the message thing on nitrous outlets site you can use the solid tube blow down for $25 but you need the pressure relief disk too they'll hook you up with the correct info always been real helpful for me
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12-21-2015, 02:34 PM #8LTx Guru
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The kit in your link indicates it fits 52mm TB. While the stock TB is only 48mm, the ports on the stock intake manifold are 52mm. Should work fine with the stock TB.
NHRA tracks require that the blowdown tube exits the vehicle. You can drill a hole in the floor and let the solid tube hang through it, or you can put a bulkhead fitting on the floor and use a braided S/S hose to connect the bottle blowdown connection to the floor. You don't want a cloud of condensing nitrous fogging up the interior of your car at high speed. When you order the blowoff valve, order a couple extra rupture discs with it "just in case".
The best approach to the heater is a pressure controlled heater. You set the pressure you want the bottle to stay at, and the pressure sensor turns the heater on and off to maintain the pressure. The heater also needs to be wired so it cannot accidentally be left on. Recommend it be on an ignition switch controlled circuit, active only when the nitrous system is armed, and with it's own switch and indicator light. I remember a YouTube video many years ago of a ricer who wired the heater direct to the battery, and accidentally hit the heater switch while cleaning the car interior. then to make it worse, he had "stacked" rupture discs, preventing them from relieving pressure at the bottles 3,000psi rated strength. The explosion did an amazing amount of damage to the car and his garage. Sort of a "natural selection" event.
As you can see... what looks like cheap HP is actually a bit more expensive than you might think. There is no end to what you can add for improved performance and safety.SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.
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