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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by DVS LT1 View Post
    Unbelievable! I've been on the fence (still am) about which 315's to put on my new 11" rims. I need a really good DR, but looks (and I mean how W I D E they look) is almost if not more important than traction. I mean, we're talking drag radials and not regular tires right, so how bad of a decision could I possibly make. I know the MT's are great but I've seen pics where they look a tad narrow on an 11" wheel. The Toyo Proxes look really fat for their size and I think I was leaning towards them until now. Was also looking at BFG's old style DR 315's which I've heard are behind most of the other competitors in terms of grip but I know from experience are guaranteed to look FAT on the rims.

    I've always known the Hoosier's were not only a very wide looking tire but also arguably the best drag radial around. But their appearance has always looked so heat score to me I never really considered them. But I think I just might now. I'm just worried about a cop getting behind me and seeing (from what a distance will surely look like) full slicks on my car. My Z is by no means a daily driver either, and she never sees rain, and I don't need any excuses for cops to start looking closely at what's on my car.

    But, I think I may just pull the trigger on these hoosiers. What PSI do you run if you cruising on the street? Also, how do they hold up on bad roads? I'm close to the country which is nice but a lot of the roads are in bad shape. I'd be worried about chewing up these tires...

    I still can't get over that pic. Insane!

    I run them at 25psi on the street. Also they are a very soft tire so probably not the best for bad roads.



    Quote Originally Posted by DVS LT1 View Post
    Hey Jeff one more quick Q (anybody's views welcome) - what would be appropriate front tires to run using these Hoosier DR's in the back?

    I can see you've got smaller tires up front (I don't think those are "skinnies" are they?). For me I'm going to be sticking with my SS/C4 ZR1 wheels for both street and track; I'm not the kind of guy who's going to be changing wheels at the track. So it will be a 275 width in the front, but does it make any difference what type of tire it is? Would a grippy non-DR BFG be a good match, or maybe Nitto's 555 (non-R)?



    Yes that pic was skinnies up front but I have a set of 275's that I use on the street. I don't think it matters much what you run up front.


    I have another suggestion of another tire that I'm going to be running shoot me a pm.

    Jeff
    2010,2011,2012, 2013, 2015 LTX Shootout Extreme Street NA Champion.
    2013 Modified N/A runner up. 2015 Mod NA Champ
    1994 Pontiac Firehawk #51 10.82 @ 121mph 1.37 sixty ft.

  2. #12
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    Ideally you want to go through the traps in 3rd at the top of your power band so, if the gear their running is to tall and they have to shift in to 4th a taller tire is needed.
    Also the taller tire should 60ft better but might lose a little mph 1-2.

    Jeff
    2010,2011,2012, 2013, 2015 LTX Shootout Extreme Street NA Champion.
    2013 Modified N/A runner up. 2015 Mod NA Champ
    1994 Pontiac Firehawk #51 10.82 @ 121mph 1.37 sixty ft.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by DVS LT1 View Post
    SO Alan did you end up betting the newer, wider M&H tires?
    Do you have any pics? Any pics of the 325/45 I've seen online have always looked narrow. I'd be interested if they were in fact wider now.

    Also, I've heard guys talking about wanting a taller tire b/c they were shifting into 4th before teh 1/4 end. I don't understand this - so to go with a taller tire, it takes more/longer to rotate the tire and thus your car stays in 3rd longer? Is that right?
    but wouldn't that SLOW your times??? :S
    well, i ended up talking directly to M&H and got the specs. The new 325/45 is HUGE. So much so i didn't order it as based on my math i would have had some major beating to do beyond what i've done before for 315s and 28s. I went with the Mickey Thompson 295/45-17 which is a 27" tire and gave me more diameter despite wanting the 28" 325/45.

    taller tire...well put it this way, (and i am an M6 guy, not automatic) i could never hook on a 26" drag radial, but do on a 28" drag radial. So...although i lose numerical gearing from the diff, i more than make it up with the increased sidewall to flex and traction. Badhawk is right in that i lose MPH w/ the taller tire...and ET is about the same. But if you don't hook you shouldn't waste the time beating on your car for a number that won't mean anything...just my opinion. Not to say that its not fun to take out the weekend cruiser from time to time and see what she'll do, just saying that if you don't hook you'll never know.

    Also, i don't know about the automatic guys but my shift lift is coming on at the top of FOURTH with the M6 at 1320' w/ 26" tires but i make it through w/o the shift light on the 28s by couple hundred RPMs.


    Quote Originally Posted by Badhawk View Post
    Ideally you want to go through the traps in 3rd at the top of your power band so, if the gear their running is to tall and they have to shift in to 4th a taller tire is needed.
    Also the taller tire should 60ft better but might lose a little mph 1-2.
    which is why so many hardcores go to the old school TH350/400 trannies so they can optimize their setups and only shift twice. There's time savings in less shifts ala the famous Powerglide...which still baffles me how a car can make it 1320 feet in 2 gears, but i underestimate the rev and size of rear tires i guess.
    2010 LTX Shootout Extreme Street N/A Top MPH-121.52mph #2 qualifier
    1993 GM High-Tech Performance Formula Thunderchicken

  4. #14
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    I'm no expert but I think think 4th gear in a M6 should be the same as 3rd in an A4 not counting converter slip. being that both should be in 1-1 ratio, and I've always heard that the best times come from passing the finish line a lil past the shift point. I guess it depends on the powerband tho since it will be about more power after the shift point or afterwards.
    96' Formula, Bolt ons only and in the 12's
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    Quote Originally Posted by DVS LT1 View Post
    Interesting - just found this thread with pics on the new M&H tires:
    http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/wheels...5-45-17-a.html

    They still look narrow to me.

    Here's another interesting link w/ pics I found in a stang forum. This guy's recommendation would all but seal my decision on which tire to buy - except for the fact that I can't help think that 315 hoosier pictured looks a bit narrow also (WTF?)

    http://www.svtsnake.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49040

    I think I'm losing my mind. I'm going to be forced to buy BFG's ancient drag radial pattern/technology just to be 100% CERTAIN the 315 tires I get are giong to be wide, guaranteed.

    well, not much to go on but my Hoosier 275s are HUGE. They were roughly the same size as the old version of M&H's 325:






    i know you don't want Nitto 315s if size matters to ya as they fit comfortably on my 17x9 WS6 wheels. The MT is big enough. Heck, ditch 315 and buy a 335. That will work well w/ an 11" wheel and give you 1/2" more height and the width you want.
    2010 LTX Shootout Extreme Street N/A Top MPH-121.52mph #2 qualifier
    1993 GM High-Tech Performance Formula Thunderchicken

  6. #16
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    Those M&H that you posted were unmounted with no air pressure so I think they will be a 1/2 wider when inflated. Also if it helps I measured my Hoosier's for ya and they measured 12in across same as the new M&H.


    I have to agree with Alan you might want to consider a 335 but just know you will be in for some work trying to make them fit.

    Jeff
    2010,2011,2012, 2013, 2015 LTX Shootout Extreme Street NA Champion.
    2013 Modified N/A runner up. 2015 Mod NA Champ
    1994 Pontiac Firehawk #51 10.82 @ 121mph 1.37 sixty ft.

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