FML tap broke off in crank snout

[My95Z]

i am gonna try pliers w/e in the morning. i was kinda pissed so i left work. so fucking closed to getting this pos in the car. been wiating 2 weeks on a opti, it came in today so i decided to tackle the crank hub issue.

i assume you meant to ask did they balance the crank. and the answer is yes, it has been balanced for this build.

Yes, sorry I have no clue why I worded it that way...must have been one of those days lol.

[catchmyz]

I run a single piece real main seal non lt1 crank in my motor and the crank bolt was the same threads. Good luck with getting the tap out, but on a side note you should never re tap anything that is threaded to another pitch or size threads, I seen you stated you run a blower pulley, but in my opinion I really don't think a bolt will do much good at this point. Also, the lt1 hub is interference fit and requires alot of force to press it back onto the crank which could be an issure with the screwed threads.

[tlinville]

they make a tool called a tap extracter http://www.nolansupply.com/bysubcate...se&specs=Truea local machine shop or quality auto repair shop may have one you could use. This link was the quickest i could find. You will need a hell of a drill bit to drill a tap carbide is the only thing that will touch it if it is a good tap

[MeanGreen94Z]

yep never run a tap to do anything other than to tap a hole, if a threaded hole exist you MUST use a thread chaser. taps can damage stuff if its already threaded

[cls-chicago]

the entire situation is retarded. so far the end result is that the tap is out, and the engine is going together with a stock lt1 crank bolt. used a tap extractor to get it out, basically the crank has two sets of threads going into it up until one point (where the tap broke) and from there it continues into the original thread, if i angle the bolt correctly, it threads in all the way. im basically gonna just gob a ton of red loctite on it and go for the gold.

next question, how important are the two little o rings that go into the water pump shaft thingy?

[Adam]

I'm also using a sbc crank and not an lt1 crank for the same reasons as you and they both use the same bolt as you've found out already. But one thing I need to ask is, did you have the rotating assembly balanced? I do believe that the sbc crank has different specs than an lt1 and it will probably vibrate if not balanced.

And as for the o-rings on the water pump sleeve. I've never really understood what they do. They are not sealing anything, maybe they are a "bumper" for the sleeve. I think without then it would be ok, but gm calls for them and they are like $0.02 so why NOT install them?

[cls-chicago]

I'm also using a sbc crank and not an lt1 crank for the same reasons as you and they both use the same bolt as you've found out already. But one thing I need to ask is, did you have the rotating assembly balanced? I do believe that the sbc crank has different specs than an lt1 and it will probably vibrate if not balanced.

And as for the o-rings on the water pump sleeve. I've never really understood what they do. They are not sealing anything, maybe they are a "bumper" for the sleeve. I think without then it would be ok, but gm calls for them and they are like $0.02 so why NOT install them?

yes it was all balanced.

i am going to find some random o rings that fit but i couldnt figure out what the hell they sealed.

[Adam]

Just use a sledge hammer to pound (read: pound, not beat-the-crap) the balancer's hub on. Only need the bolt to hold the hub on the crank snout once it's all together and even that is questionable whether it's really necessary. The LT1 I got had no bolt in the crank snout to hold it on and the first time we installed the hub we used a sledge and gently tapped it in. Turning it over can be accomplished using a big screw driver on the flexplate.

It's definitely backyard mechanics and it's not the best way to do it, but when you're up against a rock...

I don't mean to correct you but pounding the hub on with a hammer of any type is a bad idea for two reasons. 1. could damage thrust bearing 2. could mushroom the hub. Use an install tool instead: http://members.cox.net/gmarengo/Misc/Misc.htm