project car: 94 z/28 m6

***SSlowBoat*** · 03-23-2020, 10:55 AM

Originally Posted by Injuneer

I know how that works

..... old age is a bitch.

Maybe you were thinking about the port right above the oil filter. But that’s exposed to oil and used for the oil pressure sensor on 93’s and “early” 94’s.

correct, perfect spot for turbo oil feed or old procharger supercharger oil feed.

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**hokeplaya05** · 03-23-2020, 02:34 PM

awesome thanks guys, i will get it swapped to the drivers side port then, will just have to extend the one wire for the sensor connector which is easy. i will be running the turbo oil feed off the port above the oil filter as well

**hokeplaya05** · 03-28-2020, 02:45 PM

well, this thing just keeps fighting me with everything i try to do. got the knock sensor swapped to the other side, had to pull the motor mount and grind away for clearance and as i was lowering the motor back down saw that the knock sensor is now hitting the mount pedestal on the kmember and the motor mount bolt wont go in either even if i could get it to line up. so i am at a loss at this point, theres no way its going to work on the drivers side so i'll have to figure out how it make it work on the pass side it seems. does anyone know if there any alternate smaller knock sensor available that would work?

20200328_152551.jpg

**shownomercy** · 03-28-2020, 04:03 PM

Why even run a KS?

But, you could look at running dry KS LSX style

**Injuneer** · 03-28-2020, 04:49 PM

Now we know why only the F-Body doesn’t have a dual KS. They couldn’t figure out how to make it fit either.....

I don’t run a KS. Don’t play well with a solid roller camshaft.

**hokeplaya05** · 03-29-2020, 01:12 PM

okay sweet, i was gonna ask how important a knock sensor is on an obd1 car but didnt want to sounds dumb lol i'll keep the knock sensor to plug the hole and just not hook it up and i'll have plenty of room

**Injuneer** · 03-29-2020, 02:41 PM

Not really a matter of whether it's OBD-1 or OBD-2. They both function to eliminate detonation (knock) and prevent engine damage. If you are not running the KS, your tune has to account for that. First, you have to program out the code, because when the KS code sets (DTC 43) the PCM defaults to a spark retard based on RPM, engine load, etc. You will see almost constant knock retard with the code set. You could eliminate the code with e 4,000 ohm resistor in between the single sensor wire and the block, but I would have the tuner program it out, and so he takes the absence of the KS into account in the fuel/spark tuning.

Just make sure when you are tuning it you check the plugs for signs of detonation. It's going to take extra effort to find that sweet spot. If you are running pump gas, allow a bit of a margin, because you can get a bad tank. Don't tune it for 100-octane (which is not likely to gain much if any power), if that is only available at the track. Be sure to keep alert for the typical sound of detonation - often described as "ball bearings rattling in a coffee can". A wide band O2 sensor could also help, keeping you aware of lean out that promotes detonation.

My setup spent a large amount of time on an engine dyno, maximizing performance for N/A, and for two stages of nitrous, based on the fuel available. By using a "race" fuel for nitrous, the variations in octane can be eliminated, because stuff you get from VP Fuels, for example, has a certified blend and octane rating. Just have to buy it by the drum so it's always available. Then the tunes were verified on a chassis dyno, after everything was put together and ready for the street/track. Then was verified on the track by the tuner. As many times as he tried to show me what to look for on the plugs, using his lighted magnifier, I never gained complete confidence that I could reach the same conclusions he did.

**shownomercy** · 03-29-2020, 04:57 PM

Just make sure you do not get aggressive with the tune, leave timing lazy and let boost make power for you.

**hokeplaya05** · 12-10-2020, 10:57 AM

so i haven't worked on the car in several months, been busy with house projects and just haven't had time to touch the car. now that i am at a good point with the house I'd like to start knocking some stuff off the list on the car and the biggest thing is the fuel system. already have the 80lb injectors and AFPR installed and just need to figure out a plan for the pump(s). original plan was a dual in tank walbro 255 setup with hobbs switch on the second pump to kick on at ~3lbs of boost, still have no problem going that route just wanted to weigh the pros and cons of doing that vs. doing a single large pump (walbro 450 or similar) which is what i have been thinking about lately. i know doing the duals with the hobbs switch will help with fuel economy while cruising around out of boost but this is also a nice day fun car so i am not really concerned about that. anyone have any opinions either way? mainly thinking the large single pump will be more simple to install and run than going with the duals.

***SSlowBoat*** · 12-10-2020, 11:14 AM

Originally Posted by hokeplaya05

so i haven't worked on the car in several months, been busy with house projects and just haven't had time to touch the car. now that i am at a good point with the house I'd like to start knocking some stuff off the list on the car and the biggest thing is the fuel system. already have the 80lb injectors and AFPR installed and just need to figure out a plan for the pump(s). original plan was a dual in tank walbro 255 setup with hobbs switch on the second pump to kick on at ~3lbs of boost, still have no problem going that route just wanted to weigh the pros and cons of doing that vs. doing a single large pump (walbro 450 or similar) which is what i have been thinking about lately. i know doing the duals with the hobbs switch will help with fuel economy while cruising around out of boost but this is also a nice day fun car so i am not really concerned about that. anyone have any opinions either way? mainly thinking the large single pump will be more simple to install and run than going with the duals.

I know @Catmaigne was having a problem with fuel heating up with a giant single when cruising. the dual in tanks work fine

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