Haggard-hawk

**Catmaigne** · 03-23-2020, 07:28 PM

Originally Posted by SSlowBoat

*gonna cook those ls breaks*

there i fixed it for you

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They're cheap and twice as good as what I have lol. The C5/C6 setup doesn't seem like a huge upgrade over them considering the $. This thing is too much of a hooptie for fancy V brakes and the like, so I'll steal some LS-era brakes from a V6 car in the junkyard.

**Catmaigne** · 06-16-2020, 03:59 PM

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So this pile is back on the road... sort of.
Installed the coated Pacesetter LTs, ORY, poly motor mounts, new trans mount, new spark plugs, Founders LCAs, poly Jeep bumpstops, and junkyard 3.42 posi rear. All emissions are ripped out too. I need to get back under it to adjust the pinion angle though because it's all out of whack.

Some observations: the triangulated subframe connectors aren't the bolt in SLPs, they're Kenny Brown Double Diamond weld-ins. It also has an aluminum driveshaft. For some reason this car feels way less planted than my Camaro despite having better tires. Maybe the Eibach/Bilstein combo has had enough after 25 years? Probably. Also, these brakes are absolute trash and the 2OTL is nowhere near loud enough for my tastes. PS- this thing is slow as hell lmao

**Catmaigne** · 06-25-2020, 04:49 PM

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Got this piece back on the ground a few days ago with the standard length adj torque arm from @SSlowBoat. Car drives much better than it did, but I still have a vibration despite the pinion angle at -2*. It's only under throttle and gets worse the faster I accelerate, so maybe the pinion angle needs to be readjusted? Or it could be ujoints or tailshaft bushing, idk. I'm done screwing with it for now though. Gonna slide it through inspection and just drive it.

**Catmaigne** · 01-10-2021, 02:11 PM

The SLP 2OTL wasn't doing it for me, so I sold it. Replaced it with a perforated-tube glasspack [gasp!] and netted $350 to dump into other mods. It's definitely not as loud as an open cutout Borla, but has a similar amount of roar at WOT. I was pleasantly surprised to hear more midrange bark and hardly any raspiness. I guess glasspacks get a bad rap because dumbass highschoolers put them on their TBI 305's and they sound like trash.

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This car is going to inherit the MWC watts link I originally bought for my Camaro, but wouldn't fit onto my Moser rear because of its sway bar mounts. I also bought a set of UMI lowering springs so I can ditch the SLP Eibachs. I went with UMI specifically because the rear rate was a little higher @ 200lb/in which will allow me to drop the watts link roll center down more than the typical lowering spring.

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I also changed my mind about V brakes and decided I'm going to grab a set of new 4-pot Brembos for a gen1 CTS-V. I figured it would be more cost effective in the long run to get better brakes early on rather than having to buy a bunch of replacement LS1 calipers after they spread. I also looked at the rules for the STU class in Autox and I should be able to run V brakes without getting pushed into ESP because they use the factory mounting holes on a LS1 era spindle. They can totally throw me out of STU for using a 98-02 spindle on a 95 car, but I'm not banking on them knowing the intricacies of 4th gen f-body spindles lol.

I'm also working on making C7 wheel hub adapters I designed out of heat treated 4140 on a manual mill I bought. My friend is going to rough it on his lathe and I'll finish them up on the mill with a boring head. No ABS, but the factory system is crap anyways and I'd rather not have a wheel fly off from running 200tw tires.

***SSlowBoat*** · 01-10-2021, 02:17 PM

Originally Posted by Catmaigne

The SLP 2OTL wasn't doing it for me, so I sold it. Replaced it with a perforated-tube glasspack [gasp!] and netted $350 to dump into other mods. It's definitely not as loud as an open cutout Borla, but has a similar amount of roar at WOT. I was pleasantly surprised to hear more midrange bark and hardly any raspiness. I guess glasspacks get a bad rap because dumbass highschoolers put them on their TBI 305's and they sound like trash.

0110211240.jpg

This car is going to inherit the MWC watts link I originally bought for my Camaro, but wouldn't fit onto my Moser rear because of its sway bar mounts. I also bought a set of UMI lowering springs so I can ditch the SLP Eibachs. I went with UMI specifically because the rear rate was a little higher @ 200lb/in which will allow me to drop the watts link roll center down more than the typical lowering spring.

0107211418.jpg

I also changed my mind about V brakes and decided I'm going to grab a set of new 4-pot Brembos for a gen1 CTS-V. I figured it would be more cost effective in the long run to get better brakes early on rather than having to buy a bunch of replacement LS1 calipers after they spread. I also looked at the rules for the STU class in Autox and I should be able to run V brakes without getting pushed into ESP because they use the factory mounting holes on a LS1 era spindle. They can totally throw me out of STU for using a 98-02 spindle on a 95 car, but I'm not banking on them knowing the intricacies of 4th gen f-body spindles lol.

I'm also working on making C7 wheel hub adapters I designed out of heat treated 4140 on a manual mill I bought. My friend is going to rough it on his lathe and I'll finish them up on the mill with a boring head. No ABS, but the factory system is crap anyways and I'd rather not have a wheel fly off from running 200tw tires.

what you doing with the slp eibachs???

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**Catmaigne** · 01-10-2021, 02:19 PM

Originally Posted by SSlowBoat

what you doing with the slp eibachs???

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I was gonna send them to eBayland where the exhaust went lol. You want them?

***SSlowBoat*** · 01-10-2021, 02:24 PM

Originally Posted by Catmaigne

I was gonna send them to eBayland where the exhaust went lol. You want them?

they severely sagged? if not ill take em. i just want to drop the front of the bird a little to match the hose mod rear springs. give it that drag look lol

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**Catmaigne** · 01-10-2021, 03:09 PM

Originally Posted by SSlowBoat

they severely sagged? if not ill take em. i just want to drop the front of the bird a little to match the hose mod rear springs. give it that drag look lol

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They're not saggy, but they aren't as low as typical lowering springs and are pretty soft. The p/n is SLP 70009, I think it's only a 1/2" front, 3/4" rear drop.

**rentedmule** · 01-11-2021, 03:05 PM

I like my LS brakes with EBC Yellostuff pads. Enough power for auto-X (on 315s) and they held up well on a lapping day. What are you doing for swaybars? Can you swap them in STU? Are rod-ended suspension parts legal in STU? The Watts may bump you if anyone is paying close attention. I also have a C7 hub kit that I got through a group buy on FRRAX ready to install now. The adapters weren't too bad but decent hubs aren't cheap!

**Catmaigne** · 01-11-2021, 07:16 PM

Originally Posted by rentedmule

I like my LS brakes with EBC Yellostuff pads. Enough power for auto-X (on 315s) and they held up well on a lapping day. What are you doing for swaybars? Can you swap them in STU? Are rod-ended suspension parts legal in STU? The Watts may bump you if anyone is paying close attention. I also have a C7 hub kit that I got through a group buy on FRRAX ready to install now. The adapters weren't too bad but decent hubs aren't cheap!

I've yet to measure the sway bars to confirm, but I believe they're the stock SLP 32/19mm bars. I'm allowed to swap bars in the ST classes, but I wanted to see how the car feels with the other suspension tweaks before swapping parts around. If I feel it needs stiffening, I already have a 35mm Hellwig for the front and can easily scoop a thicker rear from a 3rd gen in the junkyard.

Watts links are legal in ST for live axle RWD cars under G.1, but the bushings are a bit of a gray area. You're allowed to swap suspension bushings for those of different materials in their original locations, but metal is prohibited ie no rod ends allowed. The watts link rod ends are in different locations though? No clarity on this AFAIK. There's a bunch of Mustang people who run watts links w/rod ends in ST classes (generally the old STP class), but I haven't heard of them getting grief for it.

If they really wanted to throw the book at me, they could totally boot me into ESP or CAM because I have no cat and my hood isn't original (aftermarket trufiber). I don't think they will though because I'm not that experienced of a driver and probably won't be competitive anyway.

I contacted the guy who made the original x-tracker hubs and the newer C7 versions. I couldn't find anyone to go in on another group buy, so I would've had to buy 6 sets myself at no discount and unload the remaining 5 myself. He told me that there should be no change in track width, but the C7 bearing sticks out much farther than the x-trackers and the hub area where the adapter interfaces with the stock spindle would be alarmingly thin. I designed my own and added some thickness to the back flange because the hub is supposed to support the weight of the car, not the mounting bolts.