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  1. #1
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    Default Aftermarket gauge set ups??

    Before having my engine rebuilt that none of my factory gauges are accurate. So I am thinking about doing an aftermarket set up rather than trying to fight with the original ones. Anyone do something similar to the pic? got any advice?
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    383, Eagle crank, scat rods, Mahle pistons, 238/248 .565 cam. 3k stall, AFR 210 heads, Pacesetter LT, 58 MM TB and a few other goodies.

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    Long Live the Opti


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    I believe @JPack did this.
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    i am going carb and have ditched the wiring harness ... so i will be doing something like this
    94 Formula "budget build" #thebeaterbird
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    From what I have been reading there is not much clearance so the gauges have to be pretty shallow, not sure on the exact measurements though. I was thinking about gutting a factory housing and going from there to see what happens.


    383, Eagle crank, scat rods, Mahle pistons, 238/248 .565 cam. 3k stall, AFR 210 heads, Pacesetter LT, 58 MM TB and a few other goodies.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by spikester7878 View Post
    Before having my engine rebuilt that none of my factory gauges are accurate. So I am thinking about doing an aftermarket set up rather than trying to fight with the original ones. Anyone do something similar to the pic? got any advice?
    That looks amazing!

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  6. #6
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    Yea, they should look way better than the stock set up (Not that its bad, just aged a bit), and be accurate haha. I figure a set up like this and my LT1 scanmaster will give me all the info I need.


    383, Eagle crank, scat rods, Mahle pistons, 238/248 .565 cam. 3k stall, AFR 210 heads, Pacesetter LT, 58 MM TB and a few other goodies.

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  8. #7
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    Yeah I did it in my Z with autometer cobalts. Not an easy task that is for sure. Cannot answer for the birds but it will be easier to pull the cluster. I gutted the stock cluster and dremeled out the surround and did a carbon fiber face. I had a tough time with the plastics behingd the cluster and had to modify to fit and heat and reshape the heating duct. Was not a big deal to me doing that as I never use the heat and ac is long gone. All the gauges in stock cluster are analog so wiring was pretty straight forward. I highly suggest doing a weather pack connection for ease of removal if you have to yank it instead of a hard wire. The Z was limited space for spacing and gauge sizing. I do not have a tach in tthe cluster, I have a digital one in pod with progressive shift light and playback so I didn't fit one in. I will say it is pricy for good set up. I had just under 1k in gauges and that was with my discounts I get from my connections. 6le sells a blank panel if you want to go that route. Zero instruction and you still have to fab up. I was not happy with that piece for what I wanted to do, so I used it as a template. Here are some pics of finished product.











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  10. #8
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    Yea I had a feeling it would be a big undertaking. I'm not worried about heat being in florida, but AC is a must haha. Do you know how deep those gauges are?


    383, Eagle crank, scat rods, Mahle pistons, 238/248 .565 cam. 3k stall, AFR 210 heads, Pacesetter LT, 58 MM TB and a few other goodies.

  11. #9
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    I converted over to autometer guages in my 94 Z28. It's wasn't easy but I have no problems with clearance in the back. I tried working with the plastic first but had no success. I built my own cluster out of 18 guage steel.

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    Yea I was thinking about using steel to make it easier, since I could adjust where it is mounted and stuff. If I go through with it I will do a write up


    383, Eagle crank, scat rods, Mahle pistons, 238/248 .565 cam. 3k stall, AFR 210 heads, Pacesetter LT, 58 MM TB and a few other goodies.

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