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  1. #1

    Default LT1 Starter Circuit Issue

    Preface, nothing is close to factory wiring anymore.

    That being said, when I click ignition to start, I get the solenoid pulsing like a dead battery situation. BLS said motor was slowly turning over so starter is working, sort of.

    Ok, figured its finally kicked the bucket. But, I started to tinker.

    If I take the purple lead off the starter solenoid, and jump that straight to hot 12v, starter sounds great. Flings the motor over no problem. So, IMO, there is an issue on the chassis side of ignition hot to starter solenoid.

    Obviously it shows power with a test light, but how else can I test this? Seems to be not enough power, which is odd.

    Throughly confused?
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

  2. #2
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    Default

    Ignition switch on top of lower column, probably cooked, usta happen to me alot in my 94 with a remote starter, they are prone to failing.

    Take a damn 12v straight from battery to a relay/switched circuit to the solenoid, boom done, racekor

    I did it on my jetta due to a vw switch being 600 bones
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot
    1994 Camaro Vert - SBE LE1 Summit 8802 Cam - The Cruiser
    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E/Holley Terminator EFI
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  3. #3

    Default

    This is relevant to my interests.

    The actual tumbler part?
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shownomercy View Post
    This is relevant to my interests.

    The actual tumbler part?
    No, get on your back, under your dash, on top of lower column, down by brake pedal. The main ignition switch is there. It's also the high beam switch integrated into it, and the shifter detent cable. It is an interlock switch. Will have a 8 gauge yellow wire in and out, and your purples.

    It's literally mounted to the column, it's a complete bitch to change without removing the column, and the harness usually melts too, so finding one is a pita as well. Hence why I said push button start and be done, you're already a racecar
    Last edited by SSlowBoat; 03-28-2015 at 08:30 PM.
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot
    1994 Camaro Vert - SBE LE1 Summit 8802 Cam - The Cruiser
    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E/Holley Terminator EFI
    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

  5. #5

    Default

    Ya, google led me to Shoebox and wow, Ffffff that.

    I will see how hard wiring up a push button is and be done with that.
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

  6. #6
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    Default

    The ignition switch, it's mounted on top of the column under the dash. I agree with Tubby, sounds like the switch is fried. They're not exactly known for being high quality.

    Drop the column down and you can get it it a lot easier.
    1997 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 clone | Build Thread | - just needs paint!
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  7. #7

    Default

    I am gonna splice in a push button and see if that fixes the issue. If it does, then maybe I will source a new ignition switch.

    But, odds are, #racekar.
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

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