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Thread: Deleting Heater

  1. #11
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    The circular pieces are the dies. They wouldn't be used in this application. If you are going to attempt it though, you would be best served watching, or reading, some tutorials. Wouldn't be able to explain it better than others already have.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+use+tap+die
    [ Nick ]
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  2. #12
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    Just curious... appears all you are deleting is the heater core, hence the question about covering the hole for the two heater line connections on the firewall. Does that mean you are not deleting the A/C - heater core box that extends into the engine compartment? That is the piece that you can buy a ready-made blockoff plate to insure firewall integrity.

    http://www.lmperformance.com/16384

    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
    Just curious... appears all you are deleting is the heater core, hence the question about covering the hole for the two heater line connections on the firewall. Does that mean you are not deleting the A/C - heater core box that extends into the engine compartment? That is the piece that you can buy a ready-made blockoff plate to insure firewall integrity.

    http://www.lmperformance.com/16384


    Took the A/C out the other day. I don't know how to remove the HVAC box though. The engine is still in and I don't really want to pull the dash out... Suggestions? That thing would be gone in a heart beat...

  4. #14
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    Pulling the box really isn't that hard. The dash comes out relatively easily and then the box comes right out. Mine hasn't gone back together yet since I started deleting wiring and a bunch of other stuff. Now it needs some codes turned off. Oops.
    93 Z28, A4 Full tubular suspension, LT's, CAI, EWP 13.1@102

    converter and gears before spring.....hoping for 12.5's

  5. #15

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    I'm not pulling the dash lol, is that the only way though?

  6. #16
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    You're obviously building a race car you pull out the AC and heat you must be going for maximum weight loss pull the dash throw in the trash and make one out of sheet metal

  7. #17
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    Someone dropped much acid today...
    New2lt you have to pull the dash to remove the HVAC box. .. but if your trying to delete ac is all I would recommend you beat the ac box flush with the firewall and contact BOB @ AEI CNC and get his delete panel. .. He will even custom engrave anything you want for like 20 extra bucks. ..
    Last edited by dawdaw; 08-05-2014 at 02:21 PM.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by dawdaw View Post
    Someone dropped much acid today...
    New2lt you have to pull the dash to remove the HVAC box. .. but if your trying to delete ac is all I would recommend you beat the ac box flush with the firewall and contact BOB @ AEI CNC and get his delete panel. .. He will even custom engrave anything you want for like 20 extra bucks. ..
    Thanks.

    I pulled the heater hoses off the firewall. What a stretch... Debating on pulling the dash to get rid of the evaporator, heater core and the ugly HVAC box..

  9. #19

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    I did all this two years ago. Pulling the dash was the only way and yes, it's a b***h! You can spend $80+ from BMR of cut one yourself for about $5. This is what I did as far as the water pump and hvac is concerned. Been going two years strong!
    That plate makes an excellent spot to mount your MSD ignition and I just looped the water pump back to itself. This car never gets over •180f.
    96 Camaro Z28 M6 (12.90's)
    2004 Audi S4 (12.70's)
    1998 BMW M3 (13.40's)

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