TPI/LT1 BUILD THAT Ii WAS ASKED TO WRITE UP

[Tinbender59]

I will come back and import the pictures that are linked herein later.


LT1 in a 1997 K1500 Conversion
The purpose of this is to explain in greater detail the process that I went through to install a 1996 WS6 LT1 into my 1997 K1500 4X4 pickup.
My truck http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/4842559939 I purchased this truck with a blown Vortec motor. The original plan was to install a 327 TPI into it. Here is the song on it.
TPI into a 1997 pickup
I will write this as I installed it in the truck, with some pointers for retrofit into an older machine
327 TPI build, this process will work with any Gen 1 SBC, I started out with a 1969 ‘010 block, pink rods, Kieth Black 0.030 over hypereutectic pistons, 1986 305 TPI heads – 1.84 intake valves, 268fi comp cam. 1986 TPI unit, 1994 K1500 Shorty headers, no EGR pipe!, this motor was originally destined for my 1985 Z28 Camaro, then I ditched that in lieu of a GTP Supercharge Grand Prix .
The motor build was a standard build so I won’t bore you with all of the details of thatJ, to run a Gen 1 or any engine for that matter with a ‘411 ECU, you have to have the correct inputs and outputs. I say this because the 411 will run any 4, 6, or 8 cylinder motor if you can get the correct data in and out, just please DO NOT use the Vortec Black Box, to many reasons to explain here, read up on the 411 swap here, http://forum.gmtruckcentral.com/showthread.php/92-12200411-PCM-Swap-Discussion?highlight=411+swap
I’ll start with the inputs and outputs
CRANK POSITION SENSOR
For this install I had to move the Vortec electronics over to the 327. The vortec timing chain “DOES” fit the Gen 1 so It was as simple as install a Vortec timing chain and gears, install a Vortec 4X reluctor, then I purchase and installed a new Vortec timing chain cover and a new sensor. There are two bolts missing on the Vortec cover which will cause a sizable oil leak due to the vortec “O ring style seal” thus not being able to completely cover the empty holes of the standard Gen 1 cover. There 3 ways to fix this oil leak from what I was able to find out, 1^st; put a heavy bead of silicon on the Vortec cover “marginal fix at best, plus messy”, 2^nd; what I like, I used a Gen 1 timing chain gasket between the Vortec cover and the block, silicone both sides lightly “enough to make a good seal” and install, crisp clean look. 3^rd; Run a ¼-20 bolt into the 2 unused holes, cut them off, then grind smooth with the block, “not a good idea if hand grinding – you could ruin the seal surface permanently and then have to use a large bead of silicon ( just what we are trying to avoid)” Last install a Vortec harmonic balancer. The crank position sensor is finished.

CAM POSITION SENSOR
This was a no Brainer – use the Vortec Style distributor, I have purchased 3 of the billet aluminum distributors off of Fleabay, under $50 for my projects, other than the installed china crap electronics they are great units – highly recommended, (I replaced all of the components in all of my installs with AC Delco electronics) set your distributor in like this -- http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/distributor.html .
THE REST OF THE SENSORS
The rest of the block sensors;
Knock sensor, mounts in the water jacket, I always replace these, they are too stinking sensitive! I nearly always break the filament inside.
water temp – there are 2 of them; 1^st single wire in the left head – goes to the dash gauge, the 2^nd 2 wire one is near the thermostat (on all GM motors) goes to the ECU.
Oil pressure, there are 2 variants of this
Early system; A sender on the top of the motor (1 wire) for the gauge in the dash – with a second switch usually by the oil filter ( 2 wire) for the fuel shut off
Later system; A single sensor in the top of the block (3 wire) that has both the pressure sender and the cutoff switch in one
Map Sensor; this usually mounts onto the right rear side of the TPI upper plenum
O2 Sensor; everybody knows this one !!!
Speed sensor; since I was using the 1997 truck transmission and transfer case This wasn’t an issue. If you are swapping into an older vehicle the easiest way to get your speed feedback is to get a sensor from a 1983 caprice AC Delco # 25007318 this mounts into the back of your speedometer. Then work out the pulse adapting

MAF if you use one? try to get at the engine side of a long run, max distance from a bend.
TPS & IAC go on the Throttle body of course J

WIRING MODS
I used the Vortec wiring harness as it “was there” lol, the Vortec wiring pretty much fell into place, I did have to reroute it a bit. Everything except the injectors, IAC, TPS, IAT, MAF, and MAP had enough wire to go where they belonged. The CPFI plug had to be cut off and type 1 injector plugs with longer wires had to be soldered in use this wiring map thanks Pauly for this


The rest of the sensor wires I measured “roughly” where they needed to go then added 6 to 8 inches more, easer to hide extra wire than extend a wire. I prefer to strip back ¼ inch of insulation on the two wires that are to be joined. Get some good fresh solder flux in a tub, Radio shack. Dip the two wires in the flux, then use flux core solder, then pre-solder the wires this process is called “tinning” the wire. Then put a piece of heat shrink of the proper size on one of the wires and slide it away from the heated area. Then solder the two wires together, finally move the heat shrink onto the splice and heat you are done with that wire
ACCESSORY MOUNTING SYSTEM
For the Gen 1 motor I used the 1985-1991 Camaro mounting system, as the vortec system bolt holes would not match up with the Gen 1 heads; Plus the fact that the drive belt needed to be below the Throttle Body intake port. The Vortec would not accomplish this. I then was able to mount the Vortec alternator on the Gen 1 bracket system, and I had to use the R4 AC Compressor from a Camaro, power steering hoses fell into place (one of the reasons I love GM) “cross platform similarity’s” I (aw Sh@@@ son of a dog, I just realized why the 327 burnt up, - I did not use a reverse rotation water pump, and I knew that I needed to do it, how did I miss that one? what a moron!!!!) So be sure to use the 1994 TBI water pump – Gen 1 bolt pattern, with bypass port + reverse rotation this may require a different water pump pully Bolt pattern??? The use of a water pump or electric fan is up to the builder, I have built both, and each one has its drawbacks and benefits. Accessory belt is a measure what you need, normally.
Radiator
The vortec radiator can be retained; upper hose is a real puzzler I have used a TPI once and a Butchered Vortec once?? Have fun with that one; really it all depends on how you run your air filter system. With the Gen 1 I went to the left side of the engine bay and the TPI upper radiator hose worked as if it was in a Camaro.
ECU
Here was my real learning curve, I originally sent my “Black Box” to Canada to a tuner, what a freaking waste of money. I was having all sorts of drivability issues, one point that I had narrowed it down to, was fuel pressure. With the pressure set at 45 (TPI fuel rail pressure ) is was as if the filter was plugged, jack it up to 60 psi (vortec pressure) It wanted to flood out,. So I called him up and the jest of his after sales support was, and I Quote “it is in your system, I did everything right, you better figure out what you did wrong. “ I asked what fuel pressure did you program for?, - silence on his end, I asked again, “I don’t remember” was his reply; (me) could you look it up? (him) “ I don’t have time for this,” and the conversation was over.
If I had known about the 411 conversions and LEXTECH, I would probably be a lot farther down the road with my conversions. The 411 will run the Gen 1 conversions perfectly, check out this build out; we put a 1991 Camaro TPI 350 in this truck with the 411 ECU http://forum.gmtruckcentral.com/showthread.php/1000-DEAD-VORTEC-REPLACEMENT-ON-THE-CHEAP he is getting 18 to 20 on the highway???
I did retain the stock exhaust, and transmission

The benefits of the TPI over the vortec are numerous; the top of the list is torque and economy. Throttle response is greatly improved as well, all of the conversions that I have done are pulling monsters, and real hot rods to boot. As I stated earlier, the 327 went up in smoke, it pegged the temp gauge setting at an idle on a 20 degree day. There was no compression when I checked it the next day.
So it was time to look for a replacement. My thought process was simple, find a good Gen 1 (retain the TPI) and find a better electronics system, or find a “newer” style motor that I could reuse my wiring mods on. I found several TBI motors, but there was something wrong every time. My personal favorite – and I quote “ ya just come by here (where ever that was) give me the money then I’ll go get the motor , and bring it to you. “ (me) ah where is this motor? (Him) “ ya man! It’s at a friend’s house, I gotta go pay him before he will let me have it (the motor)” (me) pay him for what? isn’t he your friend? (him) “Oh ya man, but I owe him more money than I’m asking for the motor”. At this point I threw in the towel and said I’m done with this game and hung up. LOL some people???
About this time an LT1 caught my attention, after some research I decided it may work out. After I obtained an LT1, I did a lot of research as I normally do when I am prepping for a conversion. The Idea is to find the best results for the least amount of money. Through my research I found that the LTX Gen II series motors are a beast in a liege all of their own. They ARE the last of the SBC, and were pushed as far as GM engineers could go. The LT5 is “NOT” a small block Chevy!! It was a collaboration of insanity! I want one??? There WERE no good options to the OPTI as I found that the OPTi-Never-spark distributor system to be lacking at its best. Poor design, worse location and a completely botched execution of a superbly advanced system. The OPTI is light years ahead of itself, but it was destined to go down in history as bad technology, due largely to bad engineering. I did find that the LT1 had the same cam to oil pump system as the Gen 1 SB Chevy motors. I also found where an outfit in California had pioneered a distributor in the intake manifold to replace the OPTI, but alas, they were no longer in business. So I had to reverse engineer e the manifold. With the help of a machine shop, we were able to reengineer the mod allowing this conversion to succeed we thought!!. The x24 system is “In my Opinion” insanely overpriced, and over complex for a daily driver, but what do I know???
Through my research I ran across a genius that goes by LEXTECH, his knowledge of the 411 is unmatched. I contacted LEXTECH “Jeff” about the repining info for installing the 411 into my 1997 truck, while talking to him I found out that he also could provide me whit the ECU with a base start and run tune in it. Around $150 will get you the package, darn good price. The repining process is incredibly easy if you take one wire out of the factory plugs, and then place it into the new plug. ONE WIRE AT A TIME ,,, Hint::: ONE WIRE AT A TIME!!! Print the re-pin sheet out then mark off the wires as you complete their move.
Since my wiring was already completed on the Gen 1 motor, this is for a NEW install
If I were starting this from scratch; I would go to the local pull apart and obtain an under hood Vortec harness from a ’96 to ’98 Chevy V8 pickup it is an almost perfect fit for this mod.) To pull this off, the Map, IAC, TPS, and ECU temp sensor wires all needed to be extended to fit the LT1 intake manifold lay out. Also had to cut the CPFI injector plug off, then obtain a set of 8 Bosh type I injector connectors to wire into the harness in place of the CPFI, you will have to extend them quite a bit wait until you put the motor into the truck to install this paragraphs work.. You have to pay attention to the injector number / wire color or you will be out of sequence with your injector firing order.
Back to my truck
I was able to contract a local machine shop to do the “one off” work that I needed done on the manifold. All of the EGR system was milled off the resultant holes were blocked off, and then a distributor “hole” was mounted and welded into the correct location. I had to remove the “short oil drive shaft” out of the block. After which I was able to install the Vortec distributor that is at the heart of this conversion. I Used Vortec plug wires as well.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5562296433
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5578725994
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5578141205
Since the Distributor issues had been solved, the OPTI-Never-Spark hole had to be dealt with. I did find that a Dorman freeze plug was the perfect size to fit into the hole that was vacated when the OPTI was ejected, 2.88”. A little silicon around the inner surface of the timing cover and drive the plug in place with the cup “in” to the motor. While we are on the subject of the timing cover, you will need the 1996 or 1997 LT1 cover to facilitate the 4X reluctor and sensor for crank position sensing
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5533214952
Resealing the entire motor is just good sense, while I am in the vicinity, I will always replace the oil pump if I can see it. I had to repair the LH motor mount boss as it was broken in the young bird’s life changing impact.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5532633759
I was then able to install the Vortec motor mount clamshells’ onto the LT1 block, and set the motor into the truck, everything fit perfectly.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5660570331
I did use the S/S headers off of the Gen 1 motor, Yes the ports did not match perfectly, but it is survivable for my purpose. They did mount up to the motor and fit the Y pipe as if it was made for them. A word of advice; install your plugs before you install the headers; and know they have to come out to change the plugs. I also wanted to use my ELDO signature series Valve covers (they were a gift from my youth group kids several years back) this required the purchase of a set of center bolt adaptors. And some semi flat black paint, it all flows together so well, I wanted the old school Black Crinkle paint, but I couldn’t find it?? Oh well
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5628485844

COOLING THE FIRE BREATHER
Since this is a reverse flow cooling motor I had to work out the radiator and heater flows; I ended up acquiring a 1982 4 core HD diesel radiator. The 1 ¾ hose connection was lowered down farther into the water tank (used the hole left after the oil cooler was removed). This fitting was so high in the tank that it would suck air into the water pump “that was a bad thing” this caused the water pump to become a pretty decoration instead of a pump. I have been told that this was unnecessary, but I did have problems and this mod fixed it???
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/6056142059 the lower tank is modified
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/6056694276 stock 5.7 tank

Next came the electric fan, I wanted a two speed fan for the ability to have a slow speed that does not kill my alternator trying to keep up, but did have a high speed for the occasional intense use situations. I cut about 2 ½ inches off of the lip of the stock shroud, just to give more space between the shroud and the motor. I then cut some .090 aluminum sheet to fit inside of the radiators “flat sides” mounted it with some 3/16” sheet metal screws. A purchased a Taurus fan and shroud off of Flea Bay, cut most of the shroud off f it. Set it on the aluminum that is now mounted to the truck shroud, marked the sheet metal, cut the mounting hole for the fan to fill, and mounted the fan with sheet metal screws. It is not the prettiest but it works well.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5541060294
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5541060416
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5661139406
Here is the dual relay system
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/6108257538
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5770114947
ACCESSORIES
To set up the accessories required a “VETTE” system as the AC compressor is mounted high on the LH side, instead of cutting the frame to accommodate it on the RH side (F-body accessories mounting system), But be advised that the short harmonic balancer adaptor and a VETTE harmonic balancer is needed for this system. The PS hose is a by-gosh and by- golly endeavor at best, but doable, worked well with some slight tweaking. THE Vortec alternator was still retained with some creative work.
. http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5661139598
FUEL DELIVERY
To simplify the fuelling; I maintained the stock LT1 fuel pressure rails lines, and regulator, purchased 27lb injectors, I then cut the stock Vortec fuel lines off just below the hard line fittings at the firewall. I procured two sets of Brass compression ring fittings with barbed hose fittings. Installed one set on the cut lines, and the other set on the LT1 fuel lines with high pressure fuel hose ran between the two; and of course fuel line clamps, not to be mistaken for regular hose clamps.
I did have to build my own throttle and cruise cable mount, simply cut up the LT, and the Vortec brackets, and married the two.
COLD AIR INTAKE
The last item was a cold air intake system; I originally I had a TPI in the truck, and utilized the left head light location
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5563416994
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5563419322
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5562846237 a good picture of the TPI
. With the LT1; the accessories were in the way to go to the left side. So I preformed the same process to the right side as I had performed on the LH side; removed the headlight assembly to facilitate cutting, and to modify the headlight assy. I had to relocate the battery to the driver’s side to make room for the air filter housing, a 10 inch piece of 5 inch PVC pipe, the cone filter fits perfectly, nice and tight inside the PVC. Took the PVC pipe cut one end at a 11 degree angle, placed it against the back side of the radiator support, marked the front of the support for cut out. I then mounted the PVC to the radiator support and installed the filter.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5562835853
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The head light modification; I removed everything that I possibly could without destroying the structural integrity of the mount, to allow the maximum amount of air to pass through to the beast behind.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5563406258
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After reinstalling the headlight assy. This is what you see behind it
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5563414354
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I put the front of the truck back together, and then it was time to do the first start up and wringing out the small little gotchas. After a few failed attempts to light it off I sprayed carb-cleaner in the intake, it would run as long as I maintained the can. I checked the fuel pump, it was coming on and building pressure, but no pressure registering on the gauge???? Retraced the fuel lines and found that I had swapped the hoses from the firewall to the Rails, thus applying pressure to the back side of the regulator…I R Smart !!! Other than a blown ECM 2 fuse all was well, she was ready to make her madden voyage, all went well for an out of the box start and run tune. I could tell that is was off a little, but ran fairly well. My hat is off to LEXTECH for the outstanding program that he built for this truck, the 4x4 fuelling even worked right.
Took it to the Dyno to be tuned, first pass was 240.9HP and 316lb/tq Nice Job LEX!!,
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/6176153599
Final pass was 251.3hp and 329lb/tq while not outstanding; it is defiantly great for what I have done with it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/6176679110 it is kind of hard to read due to the data being distorted.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/6176141651
It is having a slight drivability issue, when the trans shifts, the motor “shuts Off” ??? Jeff is working this issue.
Here is the final Dyno run http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/6196840943
My many thanks to the people that helped with suggestions and work on the things that I could not do.
First to my youngest son “Josh” at 16 he is a life saver, I had major back surgery during this build, and Josh was my hands, feet and back for most of this project. Not to mention his patience with a cranky old man, LOL!
Next; much gratitude to LEXTECH “Jeff” for his technical knowledge, experience, suggestions, that without his help, this project could never have been finished, much less started. I knew what I wanted to do, but Jeff helped me pull it all together and make it go.
It really is a blast to drive, getting 13.5 to 16.5 mpg, I hauled a 1998 4 door Grand Prix last week, she didn't care 45 - 50 in less than a city block, pulled an overpass and lost MAYBE 2 mph. She was pulling on the flat with 26% +/- 3% throttle, pulled the over pass with 33% +/- 5% kind of cool.
A few months later
the 4L60E is not going to last, she is showing signs of "giving up the ghost", I will be working to get a 4L80E ready soon!!!!. thought that I would update you on performance, as best as my program can tell me it pulls 12's in 1/8 mi???? is that good???? last saturday I picked up 3 1300lb round bails with my car hauler, and pulled them 50 miles home. there are several hills on this route, a couple that are 3 percent for 1/2 mile or so. set the cruise on 60 at the start of the run, pulling the hills she never dropped below 60mph, throttle did get up to 53% on one hill, but pulled it in 3rd, never shifted down. yes, I do know to not pull in OD!!! with the "60" now the "80" that is a whole new game.
And later again
does this make any sense to you guys???? http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbend...in/photostream I do not understand the separation in LTFT as well as O2v. I am not getting any Knock retard at all, 33 deg of advance +/- 5, -6.6 to -3.0 vacuum, 20% +/-3% throttle, 27% +/-2 load, the program is guestimating 12.3 MPG-- that sucks!!! and the motor sounds like it is laboring, all at 70 mph. I am thinking that maybe timing is off, and O2's are flaky?? any ideas??? STFT are dancing all the time
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STFT's are supposed to be fluctuating a bit, those trims don't look out of the ordinary to me, they're showing that you are just slightly rich, but they're still within a good range, typically you want them to run ~0 to -4, a little rich is a good thing, you just don't want it running pig rich, or lean...the slight split between the banks (LTFT's and voltages) could be due to alot of different things, I don't think it's the O2's, all those readings look sound to me....are you running a fully flow tested and balanced set of injectors?
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From another member
as far as the MPG, I don't trust programs that guestimate it. you really should calculate it yourself at each fillup to know what it's doing. 12.3 doesn't sound terrible, especially if you're hauling stuff occasionally with the truck...I record my fuel usage and calculate mileage at each fillup in a spreadsheet I have, that way I can watch trends, and examine how mods and such affect it. I only average mid 15's in mine without hardly ever hauling anything, and only used on my commute. is your PCM calibrated for your gear ratio/tire size correctly? that can show incorrect MPGs when calculated.
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ME
when I bought the injectors from FIC, he said that they were a matched set, whatever that means????
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okay, yeah if they're a matched set you should be okay, but even a matched set has a little bit of variability, just less than they would be stock. so its possibly you have a few that flow just slightly higher on one bank than the other. but your trims aren't bad, you can try swapping the o2 sensors from bank to bank and see if the trimming trends follow the sensors, that would indicate a bad sensor, but I REALLY don't think that's an issue.

I finally figured out the next step in this soap opera
before I start I know a lot of you are going to think that I am nuts, but it is a truck not a 10000 rpm drag rail!! The next step Is going to be a TPI intake on the Ol LT1. it is a whole lot cheaper and way simple. It should give me a ton of low end torque (just what I want) and should be fun. Thinking of also having 1.60" exhaust valves installed and unshrouded, not sure what I will do on the cam. Any suggestions? torque, mileage, and 6K top RPM

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/8532310487
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“Other Member”
Hmmm....I don’t believe that that is possible on an LT1. They’re cooling system is reverse flow, and I’m not aware of a conversion manifold for this. But, I’ve been wrong before
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ME
Yup I know what you are talking about, but I have it worked out already. No front passages in the LT heads not needed anyway; rear crossover - not sure if it is needed - if so - drill and tap for AN fittings, install a short hose. Problem solved
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Weeks Later
Transmission???? What’s a transmission???
Well it finally happened! I lost 2nd gear, but not 4th, I don't get it??? Anyway, I am hoping it is a solenoid, but picked up a '96 core to build up. I plan on doing it right the first time!! Any and all advice is welcome
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Aloicious
that sucks, my advice would be to get rid of the 4L60e...I'm not a huge fan of the 4L80e, but if you're up for a swap and don't want to go with a manual trans, that would probably be the best route to go...you could build up the 4L60e, but IME even built ones won't last with a little power in a truck...they're a decent car trans, but they should have never been put in trucks to begin with IMO.


Supercharged111
I agree with you there. Cars are a lot lighter then trucks. Besides reverse flow, what is the big difference between the LT1 and our L31?
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Aloicious
that sucks, my advice would be to get rid of the 4L60e...I'm not a huge fan of the 4L80e, but if you're up for a swap and don't want to go with a manual trans, that would probably be the best route to go...you could build up the 4L60e, but IME even built ones won't last with a little power in a truck...they're a decent car trans, but they should have never been put in trucks to begin with IMO.
be that as it may, I'm inclined to think that he'd be OK with a built 4L60E. Upgraded planetarys and the newer GM sunshell with revised clutch packs and Alto wide 2-4 band and he'd be set. 1-2 and 3-4 share clutch packs and 2-4 both use the band. Did the 2nd servo pop? Solenoid a flips on a 1-2 and 3-4 shift and solenoid B flips only on 2-3, something to consider when thinking solenoids. My truck was dropping out of 4th the other day and I had to do some reading. Probably just going to call Dana at performabuilt transmissions to make sure I'm not missing an accumulator piston or something before I go buying upgraded servos and new shift solenoids. '98 K1500 ECSB 5.7/4L80E/14BSF 4.10/G80, Longtubes and single 3" Magnflow tuned with EFILive. Whipple, 411, marine intake, and LT1 cam that'll probably never get installed.
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Supercharged111
To each their own, but I can't stand automatics, and the 4L60e is at the bottom of the list there....the 60e can be upgraded for sure. But to me it's not worth it...


Aloicious
Ahh, my truck is my only automatic. I prefer it that way, though I'm not much of a fan of the 4L60E myself anyway. I'd love to have a new 6 speed auto, but I don't have the CAN bus crap that's necessary to make it work. Your truck is more of a sports truck, so that's OK, but to me most trucks with sticks have an unrefined farm truck feel to them.
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ccreddell
yeah, I hear that. a 6L80e/90e would be awesome, and there is a way to swap them in but it is SOOOO extensive, and expensive...
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Chevy 97
what is the big difference between the LT1 and our L31?
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Whipped383
As far as the back of the block and what the tranny sees, nothing.
I agree Id never want a manual for towing been there done that with my 68 but yes it was farm truck feeling. Don’t like the 60e but can’t complain either mines been good to me.

?
what is the big difference between the LT1 and our L31?
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Me
horse power, torque, and throttle response, not to mention availability, the L31's are gettin kinda hard to find.

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Justin
Sorry to sound like a jerk, but I really don't see the purpose other than to be different.
My L31 with 1.6 rockers and a K&N hauls ass. I have the Multiport injectors (no HP gain)
and I port matched the stock intake (they were terrible). You could have gotten the HP
you have now with a K&N, Headers and a mild cam. Also I firmly believe in the 411 PCM.
(and EFI Live)

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Me
Justin you’re not a jerk, you just aren't very adventurous, or darning, no shame. But the LT WILL spank the L31 hands down, count on it!!!
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Chevy 97

We all like different things. That is why we are individuals. I think it is a neat Idea to put an LT1 in a truck. Why should the car guys have all the fun. Koodos to you Justin, for fixing up your L31; Myself I want an L29 with a 4L80E and a full floater with the 9 1/4 IFS on my truck. All in do time though. The newer small blocks LS and LSX engines have a lot going for them. I may change my mind and put a 6 liter in my truck. I like the way the superchargers fit on those without taking up more room.
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Me
I found an 80E & TC with 43k, out of a '99 5.3 the asking price is $1200, I believe I gotta jump on it!!
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RAT'S!!!!! it is a 4l60E, just as I thought. I didn't think he knew what he was talkin about!!! But the tans and fluid are clean clean clean, not as in cleaned up clean but as in, a non leaking 40K unit that was driven by your grandma clean; $900 for Trans and transfer case complete.
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should be getting the trans and transfer case swapped out "soon"; and I have "since my last post" acquired a 1991 RS Camaro Convertible,100% complete, fair paint, blown 3.1, front suspension is completely shot (kid drove it through high school and trade school), needs a new top, not real bad just worn. I also bought an LT1 with 7K to put in it. It looks like 7K as well, it will need to be completely resealed and freshened up as it has been on an engine stand for 12 years. I will do the Vortec distributor and 411 on this one as well, so far it works well, should be fun
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finally was able to get the trans and transfer case swapped out, sure is nice to have 2nd back. I went to a new Dyno Friday, he found a few small issues; first and for most was the torque command, pulling 40 degrees out at shift 1-2, 2-3, and 0 on 3-4 this is what was causing the “motor dying” at shift. fueling was good, timing looked good, raising the rev limit to 6k VS 5600, adjusting shift points to within the rev limit, bump line pressure a tad, and some other small stuff I can’t remember right now. Going back tomorrow to finish tunning (long story) basically Friday here is Saturday there "EFI Live" that is, and no customer service. it is all good though. update soon.

P.S. I am driving this 100 miles a day now, if the wind is not blowing 900 mph I am getting 16 to 18 consistently before the return to the Dyno, maybe it will improve
Bad news, last night the LT went south during a good burnout, so now I get to back up to install one of my backup motors, yes another LT1, I have a couple more in reserve I know myself pretty well, LOL, the new
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Aloicious
that sucks it's already gone out. But at least you've got a backup. Heh
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Me
Ya when I was prepping the motor for install I saw a couple of things that had me scratching my head, I can’t remember what exactly, but it was enough that I picked up a backup motor or two. I am not real upset as I was expecting this really!! you just can’t trust some people can ya? The motor that is going in has a mere 7k on it, ( the one planned for the Camero) this guy I trust, and the inside of the motor agrees with the story so on we go. and in stock form don't push past 5700r's lol I was hanging on the burnout at 6200 when she let go, lotsa smoke lol
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it is in and running, I do need to get it to the dyno, I did go ahead with the TPI setup, I do like it alot, torque to spare. Also found the problem with the last one. The distributor hole was 1/4 inch out of center, caused the distributor gear to wear "grind" down, shelling the motor completely. Hence the TPI; At the least the distributor IS in the right spot
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Supercharged111
Man, what a waste of a first not junk motor huh?
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all is well in the world of frankinlloyd (that is me ) I am thinking of calling my creations this as well LOL truck is doing great, not using oil or water YA!!! I recently Switched it to synthetic oil.
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Before I head back to the Dyno I need “want” to change up the cam in some form or fashion; I bought a dyno sim program, but it is CRAP, claims 688ftlb and 5XX Hp out of my motor??? I call a BS foul on that one. My thoughts are a comp 260XFI with the LSA moved to 117? If that is possible??? Or retarding the LT cam 4 to 8 degrees, if anyone has a Dyno sim that would be interested in running a sim for me I would appreciate it.

I may have left something out, this was built almost 3 years ago, please ask if there are things that aren’t clear enough to understand, or missing.

[firebird_1995]

Great info man. Thank you for that!
I have desktop dyno if you think that would help. I've used it before mainly for checking power bands and curves. I've found it pretty accurate in that respect. Let me know if you want me to run something for you.

[Tinbender59]

I do have a copy of comp's dyno sim, but I can't change any of their cam specs, which is what I want to do, just to see what would work best.

here are the specs "I hope" to plug in.
350 - 4.001 x 3.48
stock aluminum angle plug heads, cleaned up, 1.94 intake, 1.50 exhaust, plus I would like to see the results of 1.6, and 1.70 valves
short small tube headers 2.25 duals with glass packs no cat
TPI intake
30 lb injectors
computer control, tuned
stock 45lb fuel pressure
comp Cam 252XFI HR13

I would like to see the effect of moving the LSA up in 2 degree steps IE 115, 117. 119.

I also would like to run a sim on the stock LT1 cam retarded 4, 6 and 8 degrees I know what advancing it will do. that is one of my 8500 rpm tricks, take 1 327/350hp cam advance it 4 or 6 degrees, and it'll pull until she blows.

if you can get to this I would appreciate it; Lloyd

I cant get the cam chart to load up ????

[Tinbender59]

today I talked to a gentilman at American Custom Cams, believe it or not he was quite friendly, as opposed to CC,and Isky, both were rather rude. I guess they didn't have a que card for an LT1 running a TPI intake. now that is funny!!! So I explained my setup, plans, and pipe dreams, he suggested a rather agressive 270-272 with 212/214 @ 50 113 or 114 LSA then advance it 4 degrees, said it would make her sit up and talk to ya. It should start building torque around 1600 to 1800 and pull all the way to 5600. just what I'm looking for!!! any thoughts from the more knowledgable than me out there??? oh and regrind mine for $75 plus shipping!!

[Ccreddell]

Thats real close to what Comp Cams recommended.

No, the Thumpr cam would not work in this one at all. The EFILive tune may get it to idle, but that cam would send that computer running with it's tail tucked. You would also lose most of the low end torque with the Thumpr series cams. I would like to see the 08-502-8 in this one to keep any kind of reasonable mileage and low end torque. The problem you will encounter is that lope sound you hear is actually unburnt fuel and low end torque exiting the engine. For what you are asking for, you really would be going the wrong direction with a lopey idle. That cam may have a slight idle sound to it, but it wouldn't be much, if any.

I looked it up and saw that it wasnt compatible with the LT1; so I wrote back;

The 08-502-8 is showing to not be for the LT-1. Im putting a TPI manifold on an LT-1 so im just checking to see what the incompatibility is.

So he wrote back; If you are using the opti-spark distributor, the part number would change to 07-502-8. I apologize, I was thinking it was just a TPI motor...didn't even notice you put LT1 big and bold there on the form.

So, I wrote back;Nope, no Optispark. Thats the cool thing about this swap (at least according to those who have done it), you use the Vortec distributor for its cam sensor.

And he answered; Nice, so you would need the 08-502-8 then. Man, I'm good, lol.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=195&sb=2