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Thread: Engine break in?
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02-15-2013, 09:27 PM #11The Wrench
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well after i fixed my leak. this is my break in method. the rings seat under positive and negative pressure. But for the little bit i did drive it. it was a little bit on the aggressive side. not balls to the wall but no baby it around. I used the royal purple breakin stuff.
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02-15-2013, 09:44 PM #12"The Rock"
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I break in with conventional...and change often.
Larry (Popo8) Co-owner
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02-20-2013, 04:32 AM #13
InActive Member
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I did a zinc breakin oil for 500 miles dumped it and did 5w-30 synthetic.
What do you guys think about the oil additive that is suppose to impregnate into the metel? I've been thinking about adding it but havent did it yet
cause I dont know anyone who has used it to see what they thought of the products like that.97 Comp T/A #161 out of 164 LT1 383 stroker, TPIS/AFR heads, JE pistons, 9.3cr, extreme energy comp cams 224/230, Howards billet rods 5.85, Callies dragon slayer crank, 2 bolt mains converted to 4 bolt billet, Mildon oil pump, MSD opti, 6AL, boost retard, HVC 2 blaster coil, BBk 58mm, 50lb injectors, 3200 stall. Took 600b off to help fund twin turbo.
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02-20-2013, 12:43 PM #14Lurker
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I wouldn't recommend any oil additives, ever. I also break in with whatever is cheapest at the auto store. I go 100 miles, then change oil, then go another 500 and change oil and filter to whatever you prefer. There is almost no point in using synthetics for the break in stage. Synthetic oils only provide benefits for the extremes, as in cold starts, long oil change intervals, or higher running temperatures. Using synthetic oil to break in and then changing it 100 miles later is a waste of money.
If you really want to get in to the whole oil topic, go to BITOG. Your head will explode with all the information that can be had about oil + filters and their specific applications.
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02-20-2013, 01:07 PM #15
White bottle Rotella or Valvoline VR1. Vary engine RPM a lot. Run it up and then decel with it in gear. And do it with boost. Change oil after 10 min, 25 miles, 250 miles, then 1500. But then again, I'm anal. That and Rotella is cheap.
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02-20-2013, 03:21 PM #16
I break mine in by driving up and down a hilly area for about 30 minutes in D so to get compression braking in down the hills and slowly work my way up to a short WOT burst at the end. Let it cool change oil then have at it. You want to break the rings in fairly quick. I've talked and listened to many succuessful shops and racers about break-in and most agree on this. Read this: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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02-20-2013, 04:46 PM #17"Project Storm Trooper"
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thank you all for the info! i guess my biggest "worry" is hoping my mailorder tune(as said it is coming from Moe...hopefully) will be good enough for the inital brake in.
Official Member of $30k Club - Work in progress1993 Z28- 24x EFI, Clayton Racing 383ci, F1a w/FMIC, AFR 210's, LE Custom cam, LE LT4 Intake/heads, 80# injectors, 255lph/340lph pumps, T56 Conversion, 9" 4.11 w/spool, LPP LT w/Borla, Full UMI suspension....
1987 Iroc-Z - Stock Summer DD
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02-20-2013, 04:47 PM #18"The Rock"
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2002 Caddilac EscaladeL CAI, lowered, 6.0 , AWD..
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