clutch dragging/ not fully disengaging

[ItSSlowZ28]

this is the second time i've had this issue, both times have come after beating on it at the track. i'm not sure what the cause is, but it is VERY hard to put in 1st and reverse when first started up, and once in gear the motor drops a couple hundred rpm's and it even rolls some. put it in neutral and its fine. with the engine off it will go into gear just fine

my knowledge tells me the pushrod on the slave is not fully releasing off of the clutch fork. any recommendations? i was thinking maybe the drill mod might allow it to move enough extra fluid to fix it

[IronOutlaw]

I guess Im posting with more of a question than an answer, but I was under the impression that the slave pushed the fork and it pulls the Throwout Bearing back to let the clutch slip. So wouldnt it mean the Slave is not fully engaging allowing the clutch to still grab some? How old is the slave? I didnt think the drill mod was needed on our Transmissions with the old style Slaves.

[ItSSlowZ28]

If my thinking is correct, pushing the pedal forces the slave to push on the fork to disengage the clutch.

I know the drill nod is not necessary, but I did find a thread that said it will still allow more fluid to move and doing it fixed high rpm shifting issues for some people. My slave and master were put in about 2 months ago when I did the a4-m6 swap

[IronOutlaw]

I think we are on the same page. The drill mod may help. You could also have a little air introduced into the lines somehow. My dad had a similar problem with his Ford Ranger. It eventually got to where he had no clutch at all and had to replace the slave cylinder. It started as a very slow leak sucking air back in when he would depress the pedal. We are lucky ours are external though because he had to drop the tranny to change it.

[ItSSlowZ28]

I think if I could just find a way to get a slight bit more travel from the mc pushrod it could fix it too. If tick would ever make an adjustable master for us that'd be perfect.

I know during the swap I sandwiched the plastic on the firewall around the mc between the pedals and firewall instead of trimming it out completely like a factory m6. The write-up I followed suggested doing it that way. Wonder if the 1/16th-1/8th of an inch would help?