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  1. #1

    Default Need Help ASAP/ Unknown Ticking Noise

    Heres the story, sorry for the length but you'll understand it better.
    So I just got done installing my Dynatech LT's and a few other replacement parts and gaskets on my 93 Formula. Well I got everything back together and it all went well. (Open headers ) Now mind you I don't have my o2 sensors hooked up cause i'm waiting for my 4 wire Heated o2's to arrive. So me and my buddy went and took it for a test drive cause i'm impatient. The car ran great but just a little rich on the fuel is all and so I went and did quite a few pulls with it just cause it's impossible not to get on it with open headers and naturally my SES light came on after awhile but didnt affect anything.

    After 2 days of just a little driving around I came to a stop light and out of the blue I took off and it started "ticking" sort of like a header leak in a way
    (but it's not). Well i drove home and it seemed like it was under powered. Still starts fine, don't smoke, oil pressure is good (60 PSI+) but has that ticking sound that follows the RPM of the motor but it's only the drivers side that does it.

    Did a compression check last night and all cylinders are about 120+ PSI and they hold the pressure. Spark plugs are fine except maybe #5 which looked maybe a little bit more wet, not sure. Wires aren't burnt or anything. It almost sounds like it's "detonating" or pinging on just that side of the motor on one cylinder. Took the Valve cover off while it was running and everything looked like it should.

    What the hell could be happening? Would the 02 sensors cause the computer to make a lean condition or something? I just don't know what would cause this?

    Anybody have an idea??

    Thanks
    93' Formula: Built T-56 w/ viper internals, Strange S60, CC503, full rear suspension.

  2. #2
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    Default

    ses light usually causes rich from the open loop status, my 93 developed what i first thought was a lifter or two going south(fine tick that followed engine rpm) but once i got the hood up i traced it to the passenger side(thought it was drivers side at first). it turned out to be the power steering pump once i pulled the belt and rotated the pullies back and fourth quickly. usually they whine, but mine on my 93 ticks. it was quite annoying and sounded like something was headed south until i found the problem and replaced it. just a thought.

    Parts gathering for the turbo build has commenced!!!
    junk i have - 76mm turbo, 60# msd injectors, block, heads, intake, tb, tunercats, 1 ajax 2 bar factory pcm tune, moates apu1!
    junk i need - camshaft, rods, +30 turbo pistons

  3. #3
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    You're already starting yourself at a disadvantage. Open headers can hide and cause all sorts of problems. Get the rest of your exhaust put on, add the O2s, and then see what happens.
    -Joe-
    95 T/A.
    Advanced Induction 383 - 10.81 @ 124.16, 1.43 60' Video of 10-second pass - 455whp/445wtq


  4. #4
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    I'm not sure if this is true anymore but when I installed my long tubes I was told to put in a LT4 Knock Sensor for this reason also.
    Troy
    1996 Camaro Z28/SS #67 mostly a bolt ons car, 2003 Dodge Neon SRT-4(DD), 2002 Yamaha R6

  5. #5
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    If you add roller rockers or longtubes a lt4 knock module is a must. or atleast have your tuner tune it for the mods! the lt4 module is not as sensitve as the lt1 module. running a stock module with those mods will cause it to see false knock and mess with the timming.

  6. #6

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    I do not have an lt4 knock module on my heads cam longtubed rr'erd 355 lt1 and it picks no false knock and it does not mess with the timing

  7. #7
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    Whether you are picking up false knock or not, you still should pick up the LT4 knock module, because chances are that even if you are not picking up false knock now, that you will sometime.

    You are not doing yourself any favors by running open headers. You computer is having a hell of a time figuring out what is going on with no full exhaust and no oxygen sensors to give it any kind of readings. You are also risking a chance of setting your own car on fire while you are driving it as the hot exhaust can end up catching your fuel lines on fire.

    RamAir95TA is right. Get your exhaust fully installed, and for God's sake install your oxygen sensors. THEN come back and let us know if it is still running bad.
    1995 Z28 - disfunctional now, perhaps insane after its "treatment"
    1998 Formula WS6 -Heads, cam, intake, bolt ons 441RWHP


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