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03-31-2011, 05:09 PM #11
I can't give you a 100% answer, because you boosted, but I read a lot of people had to do this when installing kooks, I'm sure some of those cars had to be running supercharges. Do you run your fans all the time, maybe that would help get your temps down. Make a toggle switch to control them. I don't know how good the oil cooler actually works, its probably only a few degrees, if it had such an impact, I doubt people would be deleting it.
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03-31-2011, 05:43 PM #12
The car runs pretty cool most of the time. Currently with outside temps in the lower 40's I am lucky to see anything warmer than 175. When it is the dead of the summer and temps are 100+ degrees and I am driving in town with no movement over the radiator I see engine temps near the 200 range.
I don't know what a difference not having an oil cooler will make, or if it will be okay with my application or not. That is why I am asking this question. If I will need additional cooling I could always switch to a full synthetic oil (I currently run a VR1 racing 20W-30 as reccomended by my engine builder because of the loose tolerances in my engine). Or I can always rig up a custom oil cooler (but that would get pricey).
Anyone know what kind of difference I will expect to see and if I will need a change in my current cooling setup to keep things safe?1995 Z28 - disfunctional now, perhaps insane after its "treatment"
1998 Formula WS6 -Heads, cam, intake, bolt ons 441RWHP
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03-31-2011, 06:22 PM #13
I deleted mine years ago with absolutely no change. I do not have any sort of forced induction though.
1993 A3 Z28 (oversized ornament)
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03-31-2011, 06:37 PM #14
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03-31-2011, 06:53 PM #15
Pull the cooler the 93z28 has one as an option. Install a longer oil filter and run 5w-30 mobile 1 synthetic oil.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt...-question.html
If I remember right the Bolts are 7/16 Deep well socket the adapter 22-23mm
If you replace the bolts instead of hacksaw and dremel them think mine were
5/16 x 1 1/8 don't remember the threads per inch tpi.
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=773014
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...rt-number.html
http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...-cooler-delete
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04-01-2011, 06:56 AM #16
I have to keep my thicker weight of 20W-50. When my engine was rebuilt for my blower, the engine builder built it with looser tolerances, and thats why I gotta stay with the thick oil. Now, Royal Purple does offer a synthetic oil in that weight, so if I have to, thats what I will swap with.
Right now, I just want to know if my temps will go up to a dangerous level or not since I am boosted. Then I will decide the course of action I am going to take.1995 Z28 - disfunctional now, perhaps insane after its "treatment"
1998 Formula WS6 -Heads, cam, intake, bolt ons 441RWHP
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04-01-2011, 07:54 AM #17
what temp do your fans kick on at? insted of runnin a thermostat i run one that has the insides gutted (i cut the small tabs that hold it in). then i have my fans come on at 160. in the summer it stays at about 172-175ish no matter what. thats just my 2 cents lol. but hell im only 18 so who knows
1997 trans am (Bullet)- lt1, auto, 3.23. hypertech, 160* thermo, shiftkit with built transmission, 4000 fuddle stall, longtube headers, ws6 wheels, K and N cai, freemods.....3.73s coming soon
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04-01-2011, 08:23 AM #18
Okay everyone, AGAIN, I am looking for info on if my temps will be elevated to a dangerous level or not since I am FI. Right now thats all I am interested in.
If you have info on that, great, please share. If you don't, please don't drag out this thread longer than it needs to be.1995 Z28 - disfunctional now, perhaps insane after its "treatment"
1998 Formula WS6 -Heads, cam, intake, bolt ons 441RWHP
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