1980 Corvette LT1 Swap

**Hybrid117** · 10-02-2008, 11:20 AM

Well let me brake it down for you. I have a 1980 L82 corvette (stingray body) and i have pulled the original 350 out of it and just bought a LT1 out of a Buick Roadmaster. So i guess any suggestions would be of help and any swap write ups would too. This is my first time messing with fuel injection and ECU.

This is my corvette now.
1980 L82 100k miles
Retro-fit Hydroboost brakes 13inch rotors with 4 piston calipers
Hooker Super-Comp Side Exhaust
Stock radiator with retro-fit electric fan.
TH350 with 3.55 gears
15inch wheels with soon to be Hoosier Street tires.

This is my plan for the LT1.
4 Bolt splayed mains
Bored .030 over
Custom Grind Cam, maybe something similar to the cc306
58mm TB
Ported Heads, Ported Intake not sure from who yet.
Forged Rods and Forged Pistons
3.875 forged crank
Electric water pump.
MSD Optispark
Full Dyno Tune
200 Shot

Hit me with your best shot, all input is important.

**joelster** · 10-02-2008, 11:29 AM

Shop around for a set of aluminum heads first before you decide on porting the cast iron ones you have there. You can pick up a set of used stockers (f-bod/vette aluminum) for about 200 bucks. Your porter will thank you! So will the front end of your 'Vette. You will need different springs for the front though if you go this route. I know that the L-82's had a big cast iron manifold and cast iron heads, and cast exhaust manifolds as well. You say you already have headers, so i'd imagine you will be taking a good 125lbs off of the nose.

You say you will get the stock crank polished and balanced. The stock crank is cast and you want to whack it with a 200 shot. I would trust an aftermarket Scat/Eagle cast crank over the factory cast one any day, with that big of a shot. A brand new aftermarket cast crank is around 200 bucks. You'd probably spend $75 or so on a polish on the stocker.

Me personally, I would make a 383 out of it. No sense in replacing all of the internal components, and getting all of the machine work done, and keep the stock cubic inches. A stroker kit will start around $999.00 for crank/rods/pistons/rings bearings. You can upgrade whatever part you want, like add forged pistons for $300 more and whatnot.

I think you MAY have some interference problems with where the alternator mounts and your hood.I know there isn't much room where the front of the motor is to the hood.

**Tyler Wheat** · 10-02-2008, 01:07 PM

For the head porting, cam, and intake porting, check out www.advancedinduction.com

You've got one of the best tuners in the nation not far away in Tulsa, OK by the name of Ed Wright. Heck of a guy. www.fastchip.com

If you aren't doing a budget 355 (stock rods, crank, forged pistons or something similiar), I'd say go 383. You won't be sorry.

As far as the EWP goes, do you drive this Vette daily? You might just want to stick with the stocker if it is driven quite frequently.

MSD optispark- I have heard mixed reviews on these. Most people seem to like them, but some have had problems. Of course, some of these could be due to installation/operating error or a total mis-diagnosis of the problem. Usually the AC Delco will meet expectations for most applications, and they're tried and true. You can always get an ignition box to pull the timing for the nitrous.

Better save some money to build the transmission and put a stall in it. You could also go the T56 route (if desired) for the fun factor and increased gas mileage.

I did an LT1 swap into a 96 GMC shortwide. Really wasn't that bad, but you will have to be very very patient with attention to detail. It will be alot easier for you than it was for me since there isn't near as much wiring from the factory with your application. You'll have to bypass the security system on the car (I'm pretty sure the B-bodies had VATS). I would just get a VATS bypass module to get you by until the tune, then just sell it to someone. You can find them on Ebay for pretty cheap. Also, you might consider an alternator relocation kit as well as an A/C delete pulley depending on what you're wanting to do. Both are reasonably priced considering the headache they can potentially save.

Good luck and post up here if you have any problems/questions. Lots of good guys here that have a ton of useful information.

**Hybrid117** · 10-02-2008, 01:29 PM

Its not a daily driver, i have a BMW for that

but its gonna be a track car with light street. I have a 3000 stall in my th-350. I have heard of Ed but im gonna tune on my dyno.

**Tyler Wheat** · 10-03-2008, 11:59 AM

I see. Well you should be good on the EWP, then. Should be a real runner.

I suppose that if you are confident with your tuning capabilities that would save you a trip to Tulsa. If not, Ed has got a dyno at the shop. $550 for an LT1 (last I knew)

**Hybrid117** · 10-03-2008, 12:30 PM

ya we have a dyno at my school and me and my roommates have been dynoing our cars and we have been doing a pretty good job so far, but it would def. save me 550 + gas lol

**Hybrid117** · 10-04-2008, 03:22 AM

lol ok so you guys talked me into it, i just pulled everything off the motor last night into this morning and im gonna stroke it........to a 396 lol go big or go home as my roommate would say.