Become a ltxtech.com member, Click here to register!

Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1

    Default Isky Guideplate Install

    Hopefully getting my car back on the road (just in time for snow) and just need some tips on setting adjustable guideplates, thanks to @SSlowBoat for gettting em to me
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to shownomercy For This Post:


  3. #2
    Administrator


    Status
    Online
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Name
    Shaun
    Vehicle
    1994 Formula
    Location
    Phillipsburg NJ
    Posts
    7,371
    Supporting Member

    Default

    Dremel to move tighter together, other than that, set up as usual

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    2021 Charger Scat 392
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot

    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

  4. #3

    Default

    But, what is "set up as usual"? Thats what I am in need of tips on
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

  5. #4
    VIP Member


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Name
    KYLE
    Vehicle
    95 MQBM Z28
    Location
    davison michigan
    Posts
    3,874

    Default

    I put them on, get the both rockers centered. Put a few dabs of super glue on them. Remove studs and weld them off the car. Reinstall and repeat

  6. #5

    Default

    How much depth adjustment is there with the iskys?
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

  7. #6
    Lurker


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Name
    Joe
    Vehicle
    1997 Pontiac Trans Am
    Posts
    159

    Default

    I got lucky I assume with mine. I didn't have to grind anything. Almost all of them needed to be a hair separated or as tight together as they would go for proper rocker alignment at full lift and at the base of cam.

    I focused more on mid/full lift more than anything for alignment. Not sure if that was correct or not.

    Some of them looked perfect at the base of the cam but as soon as it would go to mid or full lift it was way off. I would compensate to make it better at that position and then finally torque the stud down carefully.

    I had to turn the motor by hand several times checking the different positions of each rocker until I was happy. It took a while.
    Last edited by Badazz 97 TA; 01-04-2016 at 10:17 PM.

  8. #7
    Lurker


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    250

    Default

    The idea of the ISKY's is to allow EACH valve on same cyl to be aligned so it is dead nuts centered L-R on the valve tip. Front to back alignment (intake or exhaust side of motor) is determined by PR length

    I did not weld mine once I installed them. Been on for 10 years now

    Just put them on and hand tight the RR stud so you can still slide them around but there is some pressure on them. You "may" need to grind off some of the fingers so the 2 sides can come closer together if needed. I had to do that on a few but most were just fine with the 2 halves butted up and a few slightly separated.

    They are nice units since the LT1 heads using one piece guide plates you just can "dead nut" line up one valve without effecting the other one

    I have 2.02/1.60 valves so for me these were the perfect solution in perfect RR to valve tip geometry
    96 BBB 383/T56

  9. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BALLSS View Post
    The idea of the ISKY's is to allow EACH valve on same cyl to be aligned so it is dead nuts centered L-R on the valve tip. Front to back alignment (intake or exhaust side of motor) is determined by PR length

    I did not weld mine once I installed them. Been on for 10 years now

    Just put them on and hand tight the RR stud so you can still slide them around but there is some pressure on them. You "may" need to grind off some of the fingers so the 2 sides can come closer together if needed. I had to do that on a few but most were just fine with the 2 halves butted up and a few slightly separated.

    They are nice units since the LT1 heads using one piece guide plates you just can "dead nut" line up one valve without effecting the other one

    I have 2.02/1.60 valves so for me these were the perfect solution in perfect RR to valve tip geometry

    What I meant with depth is the current plates had to be ground deeper so the PR would bottom out on the slot.

    So far, responses seem to agree with the method I had in mind, thanks for the confidence guys
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •