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I had a much larger cam and le2 heads to get 387whp. Weston with same cam but stockish heads made 359whp or something, both of us thru a 6spd. I don't know if your cam has enoughQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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It's all in the details. Timing and fueling in line? MAP drop minimized? How many afgs relative to other setups? On the Camaro, I went from 382 to 425whp with some pretty minor mods and tuning revisions.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSlowBoat
There was a guy who made 400whp with a LE1/cc306 setup. Hopefully 370 is attainable if my setup is well optimised.
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true, I know you're OCD, but you're Camaro is a stroker lol. I hope you get it, that would be pretty impressive to see.Quote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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I know, I'm just saying that there's a lot of little factors people want to ignore because some grouch on ls1tech said those mods were a waste of time. Statements like, "I made 500whp with a stock throttle body, the stock one is fine." I stopped listening to that garbage, got a Holley 58mm, lightly ported my LT4 mani, ripped my Moroso CAI out, added 4 deg timing, leaned it out a point and bam.... +43hp. There are a lot of little details that can be overlooked and it sounds like your LE2 motor had the potential to crack 400 if there are people doing it with LE1's and a shelf cam. Wasn't that cam a LE grind in the low 230's?Quote:
Originally Posted by SSlowBoat
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my motor probably can make more, I have not spent any time optimizing anything. I'm lucky it runs. low 230's duration, high .5xxs lift. dyno day was shit injectors a mashed up tune and a failing opti. one day I'll actually spend the time, but once again it's just make car run so it's not a lawn ornamentQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
I also take anyone's internet dyno talk with a grain of salt because we all know how easy it is to skew a dyno. hence why osies car has a 9" now, dyno doesn't tell us anything besides afr looks good, seeing what it does on track will be more telling.
this reminds me, I need to get more PVC for the impala's intake
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I would just grab a 3.5" pipe and 3.5/3.25" coupler on ebay, the pvc is too small on the inside.
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no its not, I've already tested that theory lolSent from my SM-N950U using TapatalkQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
I got a 4-bolt vette block in a parts deal a few years back along with some other engine goodies. It has been bored 0.030 and honed for a forged set of Probe SRS pistons, line bored with ARP studs, freeze plugs, cam bearings, etc. I went and double checked the piston/wall clearances and found I can get everything between 41-46 ten thou which is good. The pistons have a dish that's not big enough for FI or small enough for a decent NA/spray build in a 355 with my LE1's unfortunately. If I increase the stroke a little, it'll make the compression more reasonable. With 3.8", I'll have a 388ci motor with 12.1:1 on my heads. The block hasn't been decked (just cleaned up) so I will have enough material for the extra stroke over a 383.
The block came with hellfire rings and I have a XFI468 sitting on the shelf I'd like to make use of. Might make a decent spray motor. The LE1's aren't ideal in this case but I'm trying to throw this together on a tight budget and reuse the Roadmaster's top end (except valve springs, pushrods, maybe lifters, etc.).
I've been wanting to make use of this stuff for a while but honestly didn't want to put it into this car (because it's too ugly). I think ultimately the entire drivetrain will end up in an older B-body (like a 2 door 77+ Impala/Caprice) or C-body (77+ Coupe Deville) because I'm lazy and want to reuse the suspension, rear end, 6 spd parts, and other bits. The current car is gonna be the test pig though.
So the shopping list looks like:
-Scat 3.8" 4340 crank
-Scat 6" 4340 7/16" arp2000 rods
-Melling 10552
-BTR spring kit?
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Would advise thoroughly researching hellfire rings prior to installing and using them.
Thanks. I knew they were tough on bores but I didn't realize the extent of it. Gonna sell these and grab something more streetable.Quote:
Originally Posted by shownomercy
Checked the p/n on the Hellfires, they weren't even the right size lol. To ebay they go.
Also did some math and determined the ARP2000's are total overkill because of how light the pistons/pins are. Might scoop them anyway if the price is right but I'd rather put the money towards valvetrain.
Updated shopping list:
Scat 3.8" 4340 crank for 6" rods
Scat or Eagle FSI I-beams, both 4340, 6", with 7/16" ARP 8740 or better
Johnson 2110 lifters
BTR spring kit with the titanium retainers
Melling 10552
Mahle plasma moly rings, file fit, std tension
Cloyes 9-3651X3 so I can run a mech pump (don't wanna rule out autox/RR)
Felpro 1074's
Black friday needs to be here already
Update on this jawn...
Car has been sitting for quite some time as it needs tires, front suspension and steering work. I can still drive it around though because why not?
I've slowly been collecting parts to build up the 4-bolt block on the side. I also dug up a bunch of old parts that I'm intent on using as they're mostly new or lightly used. I was originally going to have the LE1's redone with larger valves, but instead decided on ditching them altogether for a better casting that'll most likely be ported 21* Trick Flows (because they have small chambers). The old motor will probably get dumped into my Firehawk or sold to a friend.
Pics:
6x Johnson 2110 lifters that have been sitting on the shelf for a while. I bought some as spares for the Camaro for some reason? I just need 10 more.
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New Scat 3.8" 4340 crank
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New Eagle FSI 4340 I-beams with the 7/16" ARP 8740 bolts
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Used Comp XFI468 I bought off a member here years ago. I think it only had dyno time on it? In great shape and I'm hell bent on using it.
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The ole World Motown EFI single plane I was going to use on the Camaro. I think it's more at home here. Edelbrock elbow, 90mm TB, and I have new fuel rails for it.
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So the deets are...
388ci
12-12.3:1 SCR on 93oct
XFI468 with questionable rocker selection
Probably LE TFS 21* heads, upgraded 2.055 intake valve
Single plane with some mild work to the plenum area (2 and 6 need to be unshrouded)
So..... 500whp on a shelf cam? Or maybe I'm smoking too much crack
Did a quick mockup of the block. I was under the impression that this thing had a line hone/bore done because it has ARP studs, but looking closely at the main cap bores tells me that's not true. I torqued 2 of the caps down to ARP's recommended spec and was seeing about a thou or more of out-of-round, so it needs to go back to the machine shop. I ordered some Milodon windage tray studs to sub out a few because these studs are too short anyway.
Quick rod side clearance check on the first rod journal was 0.013" which is good.
Attachment 39902
Also checked the deck clearance with a feeler gage and straight edge which came out to 0.007" in the hole. I made a deck bridge tool to double check and got the same thing.
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I've also been debating swapping the cam out for a Lunati 20080723 which will have a little more lift than the XFI (would be using 1.7's on both). Currently trying to figure out what springs I want to go with, but it's slim pickins for duals on 11/32" valves. I've been considering the BTR SK004 kit with titanium retainers, but the rate is slightly higher @408 which may make the open pressure a little too high for either of the cast cams. Trying to figure out if there's a retainer that'll work with the lower rate SP001 BTR or TSP duals and my valves. I may have to suck it up and get the pricier Nexteks though.
Plans changed a little bit. Ditching the XFI for a Comp custom grind from Lloyd with more duration, overlap, and lift. Heads also showed up. They're LE 21* Trick Flows with the 2.055" intake valve upgrade and a BTR spring kit with Ti retainers.
Just got the block back from the machine shop after a line hone. Now I need to grind the block for rod clearance and set the rods/mains.
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That cam is meaty lol
thats gonna be a fun car
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I asked for the most cam I could get with hydraulic lifters on the street, and then someQuote:
Originally Posted by harner
500 tire or bust lmao