Ya with new valvesQuote:
Originally Posted by Tubby Z28
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Ya with new valvesQuote:
Originally Posted by Tubby Z28
Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
Starting to button up the engineAttachment 38173
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Stripped and repainted new Summit headers (old coated ones were smashed from PO). Guideplates/studs are in and torqued. I happened to have the 7.150" pushrods I needed on hand also so tomorrow I'll do the lash. Didn't have to do any grinding on the rocker bodies.... yet.
I forgot the steam pipe seals and ALDL cable at my apartment so I won't be able to fire it up tomorrow unfortunately.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3145de78e7.jpg
https://youtu.be/emBNyvddZic
First sign of life... Fired it up real quick to make sure everything was plugged in right and my opti was good. I'll finish the cooling system and heat cycle it next weekend.
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Congrats man!!!!
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I had to pound out the valve covers a little and do some grinding on the rockers, but they fit (yay purple). Got the motor fully together with coolant/exhaust and heat cycled it to 180 degrees. I can't really hear any chop through these mufflers so they gotta go lol. I was thinking Dynomax Ultra Flos.
Hopefully the car will be on the ground in a weekend or two.
Attachment 38259
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Dynomax mufflers showed up. They're Ultra Flo 17222s, straight through perforated tube type.
Painted and put the cherokee steering shaft in bc my old rag joint was toast.
I deleted the abs, modded the prop valve/metering bolt for rear discs. I am going to rotate the T piece for the front so the one line is farther from the header.
Also started putting the front and rear suspension together. I'm on spring break and hoping to have the car on the ground within the next week.Attachment 38283Attachment 38284
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A friend stopped by yesterday and helped me mock the rear up. I also buttoned up the front suspension and there are only a few small things left to do...
Bleed brakes
Sway bar endlinks (front)
Tighten control arm bolts
Fill diff and trans with fluid
Adjust exhaust mount
Put wheels on
That's pretty much it. Unfortunately, I didn't realize a bleeder hole on a rear caliper was stripped so tomorrow I'll try rethreading it to use a larger Ford screw. If that doesn't work, I'll have to order a reman caliper and wait. Hopefully my brakes seal up beyond that (fuck GM for using standard lines with metric bubble flares) and I can actually drive this pile.Attachment 38285
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U should bring gramps to ocmd this year.Quote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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That's the plan!Quote:
Originally Posted by popo8
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Awesomeeeeeeeee!Quote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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Het Cat..
I am a little late to the party on the RR/VC note but to use the stock VC with any RR other than the Crane gold "narrow body"...you need to trim the braces inside to clear the RR. (pic) Trim the intake side of the brace
and while you are working on the rear of the car....consider some Dick Miller triangulation braces. IMHO they do a real good job on keeping the rear from twisting. Straight bolt in brace
I already cut out the braces and went a little overboard by trimming them back to the tube the bolts run through. I also had to pound out the corners of the covers slightly because the first and last rockers on each bank would make contact. The fit was still a little close for my liking, so I ended up doing a little grinding on the backs of the rockers behind the pushrod cup. These 1.7 Scorpions are super bulky and overbuilt, but they were cheap so I can't complain.
I also did install those DM braces and had to grind out one of the mounting holes a wee bit. I bought BMR uca's to try to cure my wheel hop so the triangulation braces should help keep them from binding.
In other news, the car drives now. I still need to tighten up some stuff in the front suspension and fiddle with the brakes some more, but it's a start. I'm just excited that the car was able to leave the garage for the first time in more than a year.Attachment 38326Attachment 38327
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I fixed my front suspension clunk, did a quick toe adjustment, tightened some fittings and rebled the brakes. Also double checked the rocker/valve cover clearance after that first drive, still clearing fine. I noticed a small coolant spot on the garage floor and traced it back to the weep hole in my Meziere... The pump is new old stock from 2007 so I guess the seal behind the impeler dried out. I never ran the pump without coolant so it wasn't me. Gonna give them a call tomorrow and see what they can do.
Other than the pump, the car is ready for test drive #2. It needs to make it to White Castle and back before I can trust it lol.Attachment 38377
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Chop chop... lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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why haven't you jb welded itQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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Hahaha this isn't the sloppy page... At least not yetQuote:
Originally Posted by Tubby Z28
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my new summit weeped a few drips, it's jb weldedQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
have you looked at the car you're modding.....lol
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Yea, let me waterlog a brand new brushed motor with hot coolant. Doesn't matter what car, that's dumb as hell.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubby Z28
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I'm kidding, I didn't jb weld it, lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
hopefully they do something for you.
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I called Meziere a few days ago and they said to run the pump for another 30 minutes and check for leaks again. Apparently the seal is ceramic and sometimes leaks can clear up. Took it for a long 50 mile drive yesterday and it was still seeping by the end unfortunately. I already sent it off to CA. Hopefully the turnaround time isn't too bad.
Car drove pretty good with some fresh 93 in the tank. Most of the suspension clunks were gone except an occasional one while turning, sounded like it was coming from the front right. My closed TPS spark timing was also super lazy so I'm going to rework that and some other areas of the tune once I take a closer look at the datalogs.
I guess I'll keep myself busy with some interior/exterior work while I wait for the EWP to come back.Attachment 38390
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IIRC Meziere will rebuild a out of warranty EWP for $100. My 19 year old 90+k mi is still working great but at some point it will have to go in for a rebuild.
That's what they told me, $100 for bearing and seal. I wonder if I could get away with just the seal for less considering the pump is new.Quote:
Originally Posted by BALLSS
Tried to be a cheapass by buying a NOS pump on ebay and shot myself in the foot... Lol
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Did you ask if because it was, albeit 2nd party purchase, NOS aka "NIB"...would they give you a break on the $100. You pay shipping
Can't really blame them if they say out of warranty but no harm in asking
I would also of thought a good deal on a NOS EWP would be good to.
I have a lightly used spare I bought at least 15 years ago I keep in the trunk....hope it works when it comes time to use it. I have plugged it in and know it turns, just not installed it
They got the pump yesterday and gave me a call, no break on the $100 unfortunately. So after shipping and everything I'll only be in the hole for the price of a new HD pump from summit, no harm done I guess. Meziere should be done with it by the end of the week so hopefully I'll have it the weekend after next.
The Summit brand CVR pump that was on the car is my spare. Was definitely on it's way out though because it kept blowing the sloblow glass fuse every few startups. I redid the wiring a few times but that didn't change anything.
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Combined 2 junkyard drivers door panels to make one decent enough to put on the car. Also fixed the other panels that were starting to fall apart, glued a window switch back together, and fixed the drivers side rear window (all sliders broke). Interior doesn't look/feel like total garbage anymore which is nice. All that's left inside is the s10 shift boot and wideband wiring.
Attachment 38407
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Meziere gets back tomorrow. Gotta throw that back on and reseat the front right spring (it's rubbing the edge of the pocket on the frame), then go on drive #3.
I reworked the tune, swapped out some chrome trim, cleaned some stuff, and got the shift boot on in the meantime. My diff cover also showed up.
Running out of time with only a month left until OC.Attachment 38460Attachment 38461Attachment 38462
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I know the feeling...working on 3 cars and possibly a 4th and 5th to get ready.Quote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
A month away! I'm also helping 2 friends with their ltx projects so I'm swamped.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sahara54
Finished breaking in my diff so tomorrow I'll change the fluid and do some WOT pulls. Hopefully it blows the tires off in 2nd lol.
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Spoiler for +20 scene pointsAttachment 38466
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Now its not a sleeper... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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It'll always be one. It's a Buick lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by popo8
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I finished the diff break in and swapped the gear oil. I didn't put the fancy diff cover on yet though. Also did an oil change and started ripping on it, car pulls like a freight train (weighs like one too). I'm on iteration 4 of the tune and am still fighting some false knock, but it could be caused by a leak at the header gasket.
Did a bunch of suspension work (new upper ball joints, LCA bushings on the front left, reseated both springs) and most of the clunking is gone. Something still feels odd by the front passenger wheel which could be a bushing or wheel bearing. Not sure, but I doubt I'll have time to fix it before OC.
I had the exhaust shop swap my Superturbo muffers for the Ultraflos. Really digging the sound now!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BL1AyxM007Q
2.5 weeks until I leave for OCMD and I still have to:
-Install wideband
-Stretch and install the rest of the trim, respray it
-Pound out passenger fender/inner fender/rocker panel mess the PO caused
-Have junkyard rocker panel painted and install it
-Swap header gaskets
-Rewire water pump relay (again)
-Readjust toe and straighten steering wheel
-Finish tuning
It's getting there.
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Some interior shotsAttachment 38493Attachment 38494Attachment 38495Attachment 38496
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Made it down in time and the car ran great. Didn't get any good races in unfortunately (except demolishing a lopey fox body on the way home).Attachment 38533Attachment 38534Attachment 38535
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WAY cool T56 conversion......but I am partial :-)
I went a little ape with plastidip and trim tape and blacked out a bunch of chrome. Definitely a huge improvement.Attachment 38539Attachment 38540
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Swapped the MAF to the f-body unit and made an airbox to hold a big Spectre cone filter. Took the car out for some pics and datalogging but it started raining :(
The f-car MAF reads consistently higher and the car runs over a point richer up top according to my wideband. Seeing less of a MAP drop with the cone filter and more g/sec, but still not where I want to be before the car gets thrown on the dyno. It was around 300 g/sec but it could be reading lower because of the heat and humidity. My Camaro made about 1.15 hp per g/sec so I'd need 320-330 g/sec out of this thing for 370-380whp ignoring other factors. Gonna ditch the stock tb and home port a spare intake mani to see if that nets me anything.
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you need the PCM tuned for the F body larger MAF. If not it will run rich. Put the B body back on or get it tuned for the larger MAF
No worries, I do all of my own tuning and I already redid the MAF calibration tables with the f-car data. I tune PE with the "%change to AFR vs. coolant temp" and "%change to AFR vs. RPM" so they need to be readjusted. I was sitting at 12.8-9 AFR with the b-car MAF, now I'm at 11.7-8 so I need to lean it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by BALLSS