What valve springs u runninQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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What valve springs u runninQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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The crane 10308-1 kit from fleabayQuote:
Originally Posted by Tubby Z28
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I was having a hard time finding a p71 crown vic driveshaft for a reasonable price so I can have it cut, specifically the mmc. I would've settled for regular aluminum, but the idiots online want mucho dinero because they say POLICE on them in big black letters. If I was going to overpay I'd just get a Denny's that doesn't need to be shortened, pfffffttttt. I scoured the yards earlier instead and came home with 3 aluminums for $75. Will still be on the lookout for the mmc in the future though but this will do for now.
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Started pulling it apart
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Guess i gotta start pulling my pile apart as wellQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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It would be a shame if...the fuel pump....
Haha kidding! I hope to see this thing on the dyno in the spring.
YOU STAY AWAY FROM MY FUEL PUMP!!!! LolQuote:
Originally Posted by harner
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I forgot how much I fucking hate GM ujoints with the nylon holding them in
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Front cam bearing looks a little toasty. I can't tell what the others look like bc I forgot my junky usb inspection camera. I'm gonna throw the cam in anyway though being that it only cost me $100. Motor still had good oil pressure so idk.
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Dude, the lt1 front bearings always look like shit from the stress of the water pump drive. You shoulda seen my 230k mile motor when i slapped the hotcam in. Front bearing had a groove. Even the impala motor with 114k. Itll be fineQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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Spray some bronzer on that and its good to go.
Imma pretend I didnt see it...
Anyone want some headers? Lightly used, 200obo
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Picked up a rear sway bar, manual seat rail for the drivers side, and rubber floor at the yard yesterday. If someone pukes or takes a dump on my floor I'm totally covered now.
Might also be converting to rear disc brakes.
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Also, newly shortened driveshaft courtesy of Hartman Driveshaft in Reading.
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you wanna sell one of them? then i could have it shortened for my camaro lol. how much was it for shortening and balance?Quote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
Hey man... i know u said u were interested in my ss springs. I just wanted to make sure u knew that I had cut half a coil out of the fronts.
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I am going to be selling them but won't be cutting any deals though, trying to make some money back bc car is making me broke. Will probably throw them up on CL or ebay for $100ea and see what happens. And the shortening was $150. I gave him the wrong u-joints because the info on the impala forum was wrong and the ones he threw in were kinda pricey so the total cost went up $55~. Whole thing was $270 in all, not bad considering the Denny's/Inland Empire/PST are all $500+.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubby Z28
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I know, I'm only really interested in the rears honestly but will buy the whole set if you'd prefer. I will be running those and high rate Moog springs up front for something similar to the PPM autox but cheaper.Quote:
Originally Posted by popo8
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Fun fact about t56 swapped bbodies: You have to lift the motor this much after sliding everything forward to get the oil pan out... Gah
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Ok... just wanted to make sure u knew. It goes in for the drop on monday.Quote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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Or you just remove motor....Quote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
I still have that list of spring rates for moogs to copy or go a hair above the ppm autox springs. That was what i wanted to mimic too. All the springs can be had on amazon for dirt cheap
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I would've but I lent out the trans jack and I'm working alone. Wrestling with the t56 is also a huge pain in the ass and I'm trying not to overexert myself (doc's orders). Doing what I can at a snails pace.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubby Z28
The springs I was thinking about are Moog 5664 or 7268.
Hopefully I won't go into a huge food coma and actually get some work done tonight. Swapped the oil pump spring and put the pump back on, just needs to be torqued along with some other bolts. Then the pan and timing cover gaskets will go on and I can finish cleaning the stock for the heads.
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Those are correct, and i think half a coil off front and 1 off rear puts rate right at ppx autox with same heightQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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I picked up rear calipers, caliper brackets, and backing plates w/ebrake shoes at the yard for $45. I need to order ebrake cables, rotors, and pads to complete the disc conversion. This should save about 9lb per side and decrease unsprung weight a good bit.
I weighed the 9c1 rubber carpet and the difference between stock is only ~3lb. The rubber fits like crap so I'm going to sell it.
Mic'd some valves and found that the new stainless valves are generally 0.0002-3" larger in diameter on intakes and 0.0003-4" larger on exhausts. Couldn't get a good measurement for the inner diameter of the guides with crappy ball gauges, but the difference in valve size isn't big enough for me to worry/care.
Also measured the volume of the combustion chambers with the new valves at 51.5cc. Going to use stock replacement Fel-pro 9966PT head gaskets for SCR of 11:1 and craptastic quench. Not going crazy with comp or cam because car will hopefully double as a tow pig.
Pan and timing cover are on. Tomorrow I will continue cleaning the deck and hopefully get at least one head on so I can measure for pushrods. Will probably button up the motor and tackle the diff next weekend with some help, then the maiden voyage.
Movin right along man...
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
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LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
Got in over my head last time I worked on this and ultimately stopped due to health issues. All is well now and the dyno day/ocmd have passed so it's time to get the piggy rolling again. I started by cleaning the garage (somewhat). Getting ready to break down the diff, rebuild the yukon posi, and setup the new 4.56s. Then I need to hone the valve guides, put the top end on, put the front suspension back together with moog springs, fix steering, install new rear suspension bushings, sway bar, abs delete, new brake lines for the rear, rear disc conversion, etc. Looks like I have my work cut out for me this summer.Attachment 37719
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I hope this will be my ride to oc in the fall.
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Gutted the diff and tried scraping most of the grime off. I got it reasonably clean, it was filthy. New wheel bearings and races are in so I started working on reshimming the posi with the new spiders. I didn't notice this before, but one of metal alignment tabs for the clutch packs sheared. Guess I can't do anything with the diff until I source one from Yukon. Will move on to the heads.Attachment 37721Attachment 37722Attachment 37723Attachment 37724Attachment 37725
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Remeasured the guides and valve stems on the le1s. The new stainless valves are rougly .0002-4" thicker across the board than the stockers so the guide clearance needed to be opened slightly. I did some light honing with a flex hone and got all clearances around 0.0011-14" but I will double check tomorrow and possibly open up some of the exhausts if needed. I also did some lapping but need to order a finer compound for a final pass. Once that's done I can finally assemble everything.Attachment 37727Attachment 37728Attachment 37729
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Opinions on mufflers to replace the dynomax super turbos? Needs to be louder but not obnoxious like my camaro lol
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get the porters I put on the impala from @popo8. he's going to switch it up i thinkQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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I do intend to swap over to dual magnaflows... so these will be available.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubby Z28
Im not only an LTXtech member... Im also the Owner.
Ok cool, let me know when you doQuote:
Originally Posted by popo8
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My $3 part and $7 box, thanks summitAttachment 37749
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much exciteQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
that shit gives me an excuse to get more shit for free shipping
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No problem...Quote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
Im not only an LTXtech member... Im also the Owner.
Just finished my last full time semester at school so I finally have time to work on this pile.
Got the posi back together with the new spider gears. I reshimmed the clutch packs as tight as I could without the spiders binding. Hopefully I won't have to reshim again. Getting the preload springs/plates back in was also a huge pain in the ass but the Yukon feels great now.
New bearings are in so tomorrow I'll set the backlash and run a contact pattern.Attachment 38122
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I'm a little rusty but I think I got it. Pattern looks decent and the backlash is at 8 thou.
Attachment 38123
Attachment 38124
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Finished honing the guides, lapping seats, and cleaning the heads. Assembled them with Crane duals and fancy new Comp locators. Had to do a little grinding on the Comps to fit the spring pockets.
2 rocker studs and 7 guideplates are MIA so I have to go digging for them.Attachment 38130
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those my old le1's?Quote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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