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All installed and buttoned up. need to add a hanger on the y pipe, probably just gonna use the mufflex y "bump stop" ls1 y pipe hanger, and modify as needed. it only hits the torque arm crossmember once in a whileCode:https://youtu.be/pZnmvvDi1Ws
interesting thing, my dragy showed a .5 second increase in 60-130 time on motor (in Mexico).
car feels snappier. hopefully that rings true at the track on the kit
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Sounds good. I like it.
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well fathers day sucked. took the car for a ride 2 times after lowering it. gear vendors barely engaged. looked up a bunch of stuff on laycock j type overdrives (used in volvos. thats what a gear vendors is)
took off the pan/strainer and the high pressure filter, and i got a collapsed high pressure filter with grit and glitter for fluid. SHIThttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...630d167469.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...abf10c2829.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...67a18e2203.jpg
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Bummer. My condolences.
Nolan
spoke to gear vendors, even though this unit is somewhere in the 20-25 year old area, and i am not the original purchaser, they will give me the "warranty" swap, but strongly suggested i upgrade to the pro-mod version as the standard unit is rated to 800hp on the hit. something about an upgraded sprag inside as i guess the standard can let go if i launch too hard/go to a transbrake.
$3000 upfront, $750 refundable core charge upon receiving my blown up unit
pricing going to a 4l80e/driveshaft/controller/torque converter, even if i sold my turbo 400/converter for say 2500, ill be out of pocket 4kish
deleting gear vendors and just running it straight is around 1k, but then no fun cruising
decisions
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Can you save anything by deleting the “control” package that (maybe) comes with a new unit? None of that was included in the parts I got, and isn’t required if you just want simple on/off control cruising the freeway or crossing the finish line.
the price is just for the "pro-mod" unit, an extension housing gasket, an oring for the vss, and round trip shipping.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
he said a standard duty version rated to 800 is 1750 after core, but advised against it with the 60ft/weight of the car because it leaves on the sprag in the gv.
at least they are still doing exchanges. The guy said holy crap when i gave him the serial number, guess shes really old, lol
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25 years is about right. Baxter had it in his car maybe 1998/99. Car was 4,000#, and running mid 9’s. He sold it to John McMullin (father owned the NJ Devils at the time), car virtually identical to George's except a 25th Anni T/A coupe. He only had it for a year or so, doubt he raced the car much, more interested in spending money on other expensive hobbies. Then it went in my Formula in 2002/03 when I got tired of turning 3,800+ RPM at 70 MPH on the freeway. I didn’t put many passes on it, because I was out of work (who wants to hire a 62 year old) stayed away from the track. Formula sat in the garage a lot. Second Street did all the work on all 3 cars.
Considering what they cost over the counter, $2250 with round trip shipping included sounds pretty reasonable. I didn't see what the race units cost on their website but they are likely way more than the standard ones.
Is the G/V unit oil separate from the transmission fluid?
it is self contained. guess the big thing between a standard and pro-mod is the shaft is 300m and it has a beefier sprag. the guy said now they are all pretty much built to application. he was asking me shift point, car weight, tire size, etcQuote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
ive been putting off redoing the oil pan gasket and timing cover gaskets again, as i reused the oil pan gasket which leaks and the timing cover i think i ripped the old water pump drive seal, so after a few good nitrous passes she likes to bleed a little hp. but i guess now i have some time to do those things.
i am gonna try to get it out without disturbing the exhaust as i spent so much time fitting it to not rattle etc, and i dont want to mess with it again lol
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