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dont mess with the torque arm right away, play with shock settings or lca angle. if the lca angle is say at the bottom hole, thats gonna hit the tire harder than if its 1 hole up.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
Radials on the street honestly wont hook anyway without using something like skinnies secret sauce or rocket prep (like the street race guys do) but even then its a spin fest.
street hooking is gonna be on a bias ply slick
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installed a mechanical nitrous pressure gauge back at the bottle right where it goes into the line......well now we have an issue
the gauge at the bottle reads almost exactly 100psig lower than the autometer mechanical nitrous pressure gauge that is installed right before the solenoid. so which is right? could this be why when i have 900psig on the autometer gauge after purging i actually have 800psig?
could this be why when i think the bottle is empty it actually isnt and the car is falling off from low nitrous pressure?Attachment 40442
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Do you have an accurate way to measure the temperature of the bottle? I have a graph of temp vs. pressure, or you can find it on the ‘net. There may even be a copy of my graph in the file folder I gave you.
And read this article about the issues created when the bottle temp exceeds the critical point at 97.5°F (1,050 PSI). Hotter is not always better.
http://www.daytona-sensors.com/nitro...-and-tips.html
i infared temped the bottle which was closer on a pt chart to the mechanical gauge at the bottle, not the autometer gauge. 950psig is the magic number.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
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Also keep in mind - the nitrous (auto)cools the contents of the bottle as the bottle empties. The liquid leaving the bottle creates a void, liquid in the bottle vaporizes to fill the void, pulling the heat of vaporization out of the liquid in the tank. The pressure of the liquid can drop 100 PSI on a run, which reduces the pressure, which reduces the flow. The heater can’t compensate for that in the 10 seconds it takes to get down the track.
There's a system called the NANO available that gets rid of the heater, and uses high pressures air or nitrogen to maintain a uniform pressure over the full run. Just more cost, weight, and a bit of complication. But solves the problem of tuning for a nitrous flow that falls as you go down the track.
http://www.nano-nitrous.com/
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/08...ressure-games/
Also keep in mind - the nitrous (auto)cools the contents of the bottle as the bottle empties. The liquid leaving the bottle creates a void, liquid in the bottle vaporizes to fill the void, pulling the heat of vaporization out of the liquid in the tank. The pressure of the liquid can drop 100 PSI on a run, which reduces the flow. The heater can’t compensate for that in the 10 seconds it takes to get down the track.
There's a system called the NANO available that gets rid of the heater, and uses high pressures air or nitrogen to maintain a uniform pressure over the full run. Just more cost, weight, and a bit of complication. But solves the problem of tuning for a nitrous flow that falls as you go down the track.
http://www.nano-nitrous.com/
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/08...ressure-games/
i shouldnt need a nano until im spraying well over 300hp.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
i have a fairly solid understanding of pressure temperature relationship and changes of state of what is essentially a refrigerant under pressure, hvac background lol.
thats why i redid a bunch of the fittings on the nitrous side, to eliminate points of expansion that could cause a pressure drop and possible freezing when the nitrous is flowing.
the problem lies in the fact that if im running "950psig" on the autometer gauge in the car, and it reads approximately 100psig high, then bottle pressure is actually 850, which is low for the system, that would drop to say 800 or so on a run. thats out of range
i want to be at the optimum bottle pressure. this could explain why the car feels to fall on its face at the end of a run. i have everything rated for 400hp flow currently. so it shouldnt fall off on a 150. also my nitrous guy advise the bottle i thought was empty had 7lbs in it still, that means there was an issue somewhere feeding nitrous.
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The main point was to measure the bottle temp and look up on a chart what the pressure is. That will tell you which gauge is correct (or off the least).
Thereˇs a graph on lt1tech that looks good:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-o...ure-graph.html
Virtually identical to the one I put together on Excel 25 years ago. Can't find the Excel file, but found a printed sheet in a loose leaf notebook. I can give you a copy, or send you a .pdf.
That 20+ year old bottle could have been flowing poorly. I remember one pull at 2nd St right after I ditched the Mufflex 4” catback where it lost 100 HP on a 300-shot. Lon pulled the straight pipes/turndowns off…. still down 100. Refilled the bottle in a fridge, heated the full bottle up, still down 100. Substituted one of 2nd St bottles, and the 100 HP reappeared. Appeared something went wrong in the bottle valve assembly. Might explain the 7# left in the 20+ year old bottle.
this was 7# left in a brand new nitrous express bottle with .500 orifice lightning bottle valve from lebanon valley. 2 passes and it didnt feel right on the 200 shot 10.15 passQuote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
. that old bottle i used it all, it was empty
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My car does fairly well on radials with messing around on the street, but I also have a boost ramp for normal street stuff.