Ok, then it's the part number I posted, that one is for the gear and is a GM unit that's better than the stock one.Quote:
Originally Posted by 96z28SideSwype
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19052845
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Ok, then it's the part number I posted, that one is for the gear and is a GM unit that's better than the stock one.Quote:
Originally Posted by 96z28SideSwype
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19052845
I picked up the entire assembly from the local Chevy dealer and then put on the "oil pump drive saver" but I'm not sure they're available anymore. He was a sponsor here but he disappeared awhile back.
I remember those I'm glad I got one from him before he disappeared. But I'm sure it can be replicated.Quote:
Originally Posted by 96LT1355Z28
If u guys are talkin about the physical gear on the oil pump drive itself, the thing that bolts in the lifter valley, it depends on cam selection and if its steel or billet etc. on both the hotcam and the bullett cam i have stock original gears on, with herron performance billet oil pump drive housings, and that melling 1pc shaft.
Contact shonherron@hotmail.com or search him on here, he still has billet drives, but you use ur stock guts/gear and still need the melling shaft.
That part number provided is the one you want. I was able to get in touch with wicked for his psi saver about a year and a half ago after a few PMs on different forums and probably a email lol. He's got 'em if ya can get a hold of him. I would save your money when it comes to that billet piece.
Well I tried to find wickeds website but it looks like its gone. His SN was Wicked94z or something along those lines, don't have time to look for it right now.
Thanks for all the info guys I'll look into it all when I get a chance
Silver 96 Z28 SideSwype-DD
Green 96 Z28 NightMare-Drag car
Idn, billet piece instead of a little metal tab over plastic...piece of mind to me. Good luck either way
The plastic is a shitty design, no doubt! I've read of a lot of people having cracked housings due to over torquing. 13 ft. lbs is not a lot and is super easy to go over without a torque wrench. Even so, people have cracked new housings at the recommended torque value and it is always in the same area, and that is simply due to the fact that there is too much pressure on a small section of the plastic "ear". Which is where the tab comes in to play by evening out the torque on the ear applied by the bolt. Also, even if the plastic does crack the tab has little arms that will hold it in place..
It's Wicked94Z on ls1tech with the pre-made psi saver. Looks like his last activity was in October last year, and his website is definitely not running anymore... I'd try and throw him a PM or two, but looks like you might have even more trouble then I did (which was a year and a half ago) just to get a hold of him...
So here's what ya do;
Get some steel 3/16-1/4" thick and a dremel, turn the housing upside-down and trace out the features, make your own tab and be happy you didn't waste $80. Kind of a no brainer....
Also, just to throw this in there. There was speculation on another forum that a HV pump could add stress at the tab due to slightly more vibration. Hasn't really been confirmed and maybe someone with some more knowledge on that can chime in, but by all means stick with a std. volumel and pressure pump lol...
^ive heard the same about the hv pumps as well, thats why we kept the stock one and threw in a white spring on the h/c car, my car has good oil pressure with just a stock 94 pump
Oh