project car: 94 z/28 m6

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Originally Posted by Fastbird

I second the motion on the pricey Derale units. Those and a big BeCool radiator worked on my no airflow Trans Am front end.

The twin 255's will be fine. I'm getting ready to see how far they can actually be pushed (another month or two and my Vette will be running, and I'm aiming at 1K RWHP on stock lines/twin 255's).

P.S. I was running a 383 also.

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ohh my bad, for some reason i thought you had all this on a 355. i may take a chance on the stock rad since mine it still in pretty good condition and never had an issue keeping the 383 below 180f

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Originally Posted by shownomercy

I was close :lol:

I would run triple 255s fastbird or, double 450s

Sorry for thread hijack OP

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no worries, all good info

so looks like i will give the twin 255's a shot, will be cheaper for me since i already have a 255 in the car so it will just be getting another one and some fuel line which i may already have and a Y. good thing i already have the dreaded trap door mod done so it should be super easy to pull the sending unit. another thing i was thinking, should i be upgrading to an aftermarket FPR or can the stock FPR handle the added pressure?

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Originally Posted by hokeplaya05

ohh my bad, for some reason i thought you had all this on a 355. i may take a chance on the stock rad since mine it still in pretty good condition and never had an issue keeping the 383 below 180f

no worries, all good info

so looks like i will give the twin 255's a shot, will be cheaper for me since i already have a 255 in the car so it will just be getting another one and some fuel line which i may already have and a Y. good thing i already have the dreaded trap door mod done so it should be super easy to pull the sending unit. another thing i was thinking, should i be upgrading to an aftermarket FPR or can the stock FPR handle the added pressure?

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IMO, I would upgrade to a adjustable.

Again, if you need more healthy margin on fuel injectors you can run higher base pressures. I run 55psi on mine and since the pump can do that, it gets me a little more head room for pushing injectors.

okay, i will ad that to the list, any suggestions on brand? i think I've seen guys running aeromotive FPR's but don't know much about them

what pump setup are you running SNM? I've been following your thread but must have missed it, i do see you have all AN lines where i am trying to keep the stock steel lines as long as i can get away with it

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Originally Posted by shownomercy

I was close :lol:

I would run triple 255s fastbird or, double 450s

Sorry for thread hijack OP

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More thread hijack. :D

I have 95# injectors. But car was previously at 760 RWHP with 80# injectors at (if I remember right, this was back in 2009 before I sold the car) about 75% duty cycle. When I bought the car back I know it was making in the 825-850 range with the 95's at 15# boost and plenty of headroom because it was (shortly) at over 20# boost with no issues. Really my plan is to just see how far the factory lines and 97-98 Return rail setup will go and then just leave it. I like the factory ish look in the engine bay over a bunch of extra lines, regulator, and rails.
@hokeplaya05 I would DEFINITELY upgrade to an AFPR. I know the factory FRP in my vette is a 1:1 rise under boost (hence why I'm using it), but I'm not sure about the older LTx ones.

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Originally Posted by hokeplaya05

okay, i will ad that to the list, any suggestions on brand? i think I've seen guys running aeromotive FPR's but don't know much about them

what pump setup are you running SNM? I've been following your thread but must have missed it, i do see you have all AN lines where i am trying to keep the stock steel lines as long as i can get away with it

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Magnafuel 4301, its big and its loud, but it doesn't balk at pushing ~70psi

got an hour to work on the car after work today, confirmed that the stock rad will fit and i can't use the stock fans so derale pushers it is. also found a few more issues; one of the outlets on the water pump aims right at the turbo and my strano front swaybar isn't going to fit with the way the hot side is routed.

not sure what i want to do about the water pump outlet, i'm thinking i can cut it and rotate the outlet and have someone weld it back together so it clears the turbo
Attachment 38882

as for the sway bar, i was able to snake it in so it almost worked, if the up pipe was like an inch lower it would bolt up but then it would be below the k member. i really like the strano bar so i'm going to try to make it work, there is about 5 inches in between the bar and the steering rack/lines so i think it can be tucked behind the sway bar. i'll have to find the stock swaybar to throw in there for now, but at some point i'll bring it to my buddy to see if he can tuck the pipe between the bar and rack.
Attachment 38883

here are some other pics of the progress, cold side all mocked up and cut the front bumper for airflow to the IC. left "fangs" as i've seen the ls guys do, and i think it looks pretty sick lol
Attachment 38884
Attachment 38885
Attachment 38886

Just cap the waterpump and its fitting on the rad, its for the oil cooler if you had one.

https://i.imgur.com/uivMB89l.jpg

My advice is to give up on the front sway bar, or lower the bar. If you sneak the hot side under it, and keep the car lowered, you will hit everything with the hotside.

Bingo. Find a good SILICONE cap. Rubber ones will very quickly degrade and leak. Not that I know from experience or anything, lol.

"not sure what i want to do about the water pump outlet, i'm thinking i can cut it and rotate the outlet and have someone weld it back together so it clears the turbo"
Pull it out, tap it and put a plug in it. If you needed it later, you could use AN fittings or a threaded heater hose fitting.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by Cathead

Pull it out, tap it and put a plug in it. If you needed it later, you could use AN fittings or a threaded heater hose fitting.

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this is what i was thinking after i posted that and will actually probably end up doing this, i don't have an oil cooler so just have a bypass hose that goes to the rad so no need for it anyways.

i am going to try to get the strano bar to work, i think my buddy can re-do the hotside to tuck up between the bar and steering rack. i set this car up as a corner carver and would like to keep it that way if at all possible. it will get the stock bar to get it on the road and driving then i can bring it to his shop and see what he thinks.