View Full Version : Head Stud Tq?
Tricked-Out-Toy
01-07-2010, 12:29 PM
What are you guys TQ'ing your head studs to?
AChotrod
01-07-2010, 01:21 PM
I would think factory specs or ARPs specs with aluminum heads? Dont want to warp them.
Tricked-Out-Toy
01-07-2010, 01:24 PM
Ya I didnt know if ppl were adding a few extra lbs on them for boosted setups. or if they were TQing differently for composite gaskets Vs MLS...
Divine02
01-07-2010, 07:31 PM
65 ft/lbs
tleed
01-07-2010, 09:17 PM
mine are at 85 lbs with mls gaskets im not boosted yet just waiting on the funds
Divine02
01-08-2010, 04:21 PM
mine are at 85 lbs with mls gaskets im not boosted yet just waiting on the funds
I'm runnin MLS gaskets as well. I better check into that to see if i'm ok on torque before I get mine all the way together. I'm glad you said somethin
Tricked-Out-Toy
01-08-2010, 04:32 PM
Im going to jsut go off of the ARP number for now... im running felpros but will switch to MLS after I pop one..
Jay_rich
01-08-2010, 05:28 PM
I think mine was always at 85ft.lbs...copper SCE gaskets
Jay
Divine02
01-09-2010, 01:01 AM
i'm probably gonna call cometic on monday and ask them what they recommend.
mrbadlt1
01-09-2010, 12:38 PM
im running arp headbolts, and they said 75ft lbs with there assembly lube
2fast4u88
01-09-2010, 01:10 PM
My cosmetics leaked on my procharged 383. But not sure what the tourqe was on it. The other car I used stock specs with arp head bolts. Alot say to use arp specs but I didn't.
tleed
01-09-2010, 04:07 PM
if u use mls gaskets u should copper coat them cometic says install dry but i have had my heads off 2 times just cleaned and recoated then retorqued them but u must be careful when removing the gaskets not to damage them i copper coat all my head gaskets it prevents leaks
Divine02
01-09-2010, 05:59 PM
I've copper coated them before on other engines but the biggest issue is head and deck surface finish. On a MLS gasket i've found that it's really really important that the surfaces are between 0-50RZ
2fast4u88
01-09-2010, 10:55 PM
They weren't coated but the block and heads were decked. When I took it apart for a valve seat falling out. I seen they were leaking on 2 cyclinders. That was with right around 500miles on the motor.
Divine02
01-13-2010, 08:17 PM
Ok guys I got the lowdown from Chris at Cometics. He says that the torque should be factory specs. There is an exception. If you are using a bolt or stud that is not a OEM part, you can go by the aftermarket bolt or stud torque specs. Everybody uses ARP. I'm using ARP studs. ARP says to go by factory specs on torque. Chris says another thing that helps is after you have torqued the head bolts down, back them all off 90 degrees and then re-torque them all over again. I asked him if it would hurt to torque them at a higher rate. Chris says do not over torque the bolts. You risk warping the head.
So thats the word from a gasket manufacturer. I work in quality at a major engine re-man facility so I thought I'd call and try to figure some things out. I hope theres some benefit to it on here.
Divine02
01-14-2010, 04:58 PM
Woops sorry guys I realized I made a mistake after I left that last message. I was thinking ARP torque specs were the same as factory specs. After I thought about it for a while I remembered that ARP specs are slightly higher and depends on what lube you put on the bolt. I believe it can go all the way to 85 possibly. I don't have the paperwork in front of me. Anyways I thought I'd try to straighten up my mistake.
Purple94z28
06-14-2010, 01:28 AM
So what torque spec should i use on arp head studs with cosmetic gaskets?
gregrob
06-14-2010, 02:33 AM
HYLOMAR
Much better than copper. I would disassemble MLS gaskets and coat with HYLOMAR, then install on head and tq 85-90 ftlbs for a boosted application.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXiVZIBoHL0
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