What should I do next to my car?

[Greg]

Kind of going back and forth with what route to go with my car. First i'll start with what my car will have done to it in the spring.

Mods:
LPE Cold Air Intake
Jet Hot Long Tubes (Race style, no emission hookups)
!EGR & !AIR
ORY
Hooker 3" Super Competition cat-back
MSD 8.5mm spark plug wires
BBK 52mm Throttle Body
TB Bypass mod
March underdrive Pulley
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
B&M Ripper Shifter
Lakewood control arms
BMR control arm relocation brackets
BMR Panhard rod (single adjustable)
Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs
UMI shocktower brace
Weld-in subframe connectors

I want to add a little more pep to my car without throwing all my money at it. At first all I wanted was a car that could run a 12.99 or better in the 1/4 and handle better than the average. I think i'm pretty close to that goal and now I want just a little more. My car is only used in the summer and I put about 3k miles on it during those months.

The real 3 options I have been throwing around in my head are: LT1 LE1 package from Elliotts Port Works ($1,200 and should make around 360 RWHP), AI system matched GM LT1 Cam Kit ($1195 and should make 345-360 RWHP with their Ai 226/234 - .540/.575- 110 LSA) or the Nitrous Outlet LT1 52mm Plate System w/10lb Bottle ($700 and jets for 50, 100, 150, 200 hp)

I'm kind of leaning towards the Bottle because I usually don't beat on my car and I would only be stressing the engine when I wanted to. I have no plans on street racing people (might toy with a few ricers or mustangs ;) but thats about it) and I want to bring the car to the track a few times next year and get some respectable numbers. Another thing in the back of my mind is that if I get the itch again all i'm gonna have to do is change out a jet as opposed to tearing apart the car again.

If I go with the Bottle will a PCM4Less or MadZ28 tune be enough or will I need it Dyno Tuned?

Please feel free to give me any advice as it will be very appreciated.

[BLOWNDFIZ]

I'd say go for the bottle. If you would have asked me a year ago, I would have said H/C, but after putting nitrous on my daily I would recommend it to anyone. That hit is sooo much fun! Talk about Dr. Jeckyl and Mr. Hyde.

When the system is off, other than a few switch's and the purge button, you don't even know it's there. The car drives and acts stock. I love the sound of a cam, but for me driving the car daily in the summer, I like the docile nature of the stock cam.

As far as tune, I had Bryan at PCMforless tune mine and it has worked great. I gave him my target A/F I wanted and he nailed it.

[Stroked96Bowtie]

Tricked out setup you have in your garage blown! hehe turns a one car into a two car.

I dont see a 255lph fuel pump upgrade on your list. Id do that before slapping on the wet kit at minimum. Next your issue will probably traction and then rearend. Put the hit on a button then you can use it once you get out of the hole...will be easier on your rearend (assuming its a stock 10bolt) and better for traction.

BTW with those mods you've listed...should be well into the 12s...if not you need some seat time:)

[AChotrod]

I would do the LE1 heads and cam if you got the cash. I did the N2o thing on my last car. This time around I want it to run the same numbers on motor first. Then spray it once the shortblock is built.

[IronOutlaw]

i voted for le1. It is a very streetable setup and when you want more out of it then you can spray it.

[Tyler Wheat]

I voted for the bottle. Its just too much fun. I'd make sure to get a FPSS, window switch, colder plugs and you should be good to go. Supposedly you can run up to 150 safely on stock bottomend and tune. I have the 100 in mine now untuned, and I don't think I'll go higher until I bring it to Ed and check everything out. If you have the money to tune it, you might as well just to be safe. You might also check into a wideband and possibly ignition box to retard the timing just for safety, too. Nitrous can really add up when you add all the safety stuff with it.

The best part about it is, IMO, nitrous is, in a sense, another bolt-on.

[KissMyWhtSS]

What are your goals for the car? Just 360rwhp or is that it right now (and next summer if you decide you want more you'll budget out another $500-1000 as needed)

[Fixxer99TA]

I voted for LE Heads/Cam. But mine is a two step program.

See, I say LE Heads/Cam now... And when you get bored of that, spray it :D

[Greg]

Thanks for the advice so far everyone.

I haven't taken my car to the track yet. I planned on putting the long tubes on during the middle of the summer but it looks like i'm going to wait until spring. It will be paid off in a month or two and it will give me a chance to save a few bucks until then.

I don't really have an hp goal I'm looking to achieve. I'm trying to find a power range where my car will have some more balls without having to upgrade everything on it. I figured around 425-450 would be a good range without the car falling apart. I'm really looking for a summer car with good street manors and more reliable power.

This will most likely be my last mod to the car until something breaks and I want it to count. Looking to spend around $1,500 max. The only reason I suggested the LE1 package over the LE2 is that the LE2 cost $450 more and is advertised as making an extra 10 RWHP. I don't want to spend $450 for 10 hp at the wheels. Plus I would need to buy bigger fuel injectors and I'm sure there are a few other things I'm not thinking about.

[KissMyWhtSS]

Fair enough. I didn't know how "set" you were.

My vote's for the AI cam. with a good set of AI heads you can hit your goal NA. But I wouldn't put the heads on until you were ready to accept a broken 10 bolt or spun rod bearing.

And I leave you with this:
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/96-SS-Advanced-Induction_83098.htm

[1FASTSS]

Is your car A4 or M6? I would do a converter first if A4.

[KissMyWhtSS]

Is your car A4 or M6? I would do a converter first if A4.
B&M Ripper Shifter == 6 speed :shame:

[AChotrod]

Thanks for the advice so far everyone.

I haven't taken my car to the track yet. I planned on putting the long tubes on during the middle of the summer but it looks like i'm going to wait until spring. It will be paid off in a month or two and it will give me a chance to save a few bucks until then.

I don't really have an hp goal I'm looking to achieve. I'm trying to find a power range where my car will have some more balls without having to upgrade everything on it. I figured around 425-450 would be a good range without the car falling apart. I'm really looking for a summer car with good street manors and more reliable power.

This will most likely be my last mod to the car until something breaks and I want it to count. Looking to spend around $1,500 max. The only reason I suggested the LE1 package over the LE2 is that the LE2 cost $450 more and is advertised as making an extra 10 RWHP. I don't want to spend $450 for 10 hp at the wheels. Plus I would need to buy bigger fuel injectors and I'm sure there are a few other things I'm not thinking about.

Unless your going to do all the work its gonna cost way more than $1500 for heads and cam.

[Greg]

Unless your going to do all the work its gonna cost way more than $1500 for heads and cam.All the work will be done by me and my neighbor. I'm aware that most shops would charge around $800 in labor for a cam swap alone. Our cars are a PITA to work on at times.

[BLOWNDFIZ]

All the work will be done by me and my neighbor. I'm aware that most shops would charge around $800 in labor for a cam swap alone. Our cars are a PITA to work on at times.

"At times" may be an understatement. They are always a pain to work on, you just get used to it over the course of working on them for 12 years now in my case...:cheers:

[CamaroRacing12]

save ur money for a nasty ass rebuild :devil:

[elitecamaro94]

i voted for heads and cam, thats what im working towards next

[boosted95z]

I voted for the AI matched cam, because for one thing... the stock lt1 heads are good for the power you want and if anything you can take them off and have them ported and gasket matched for cheaper than a new set of heads. I have seen better flow numbers on some ported stock heads than some of the aftermarket heads out there. :cheers:

[whammer33024]

i'm voting LE1 just because that's my exact plan...and if you look around in the for sale sections of other forums, you may just find some for cheap!

oh, and i MAY be wrong, but i'm pretty sure you will need bigger injectors for the LE1 package as well. maybe someone can help a little more there than me