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View Full Version : Whos used a non f body rear



gregrob
10-24-2009, 07:06 AM
Who has made an old school 12 bolt, 9 inch, 8.8 etc work in a 4th gen?

I'm wondering what would be so hard about it.

Been thinkin about getting and old school 12 bolt and start working on adding the requisite suspension and tq arm mounts.

Would it also have to be narrowed, or would a stock width 12 bolt from a car work?

I'm not opposed to using an 8.8 either.

Let me know what you guys think. And before you bring up the welding part, yes I can definitely weld whatever needs to be welded on the rearend. Even if it's mild steel stuff to the cast housing and axle tubes, got that covered no problem and it will be strong.

So, what other challenges would I face by doing this?

ksmyss
10-24-2009, 08:04 AM
8.8 under my car.

popo8
10-24-2009, 09:38 AM
8.8 under my car.

Thats what I want!

Joker Z28
10-24-2009, 10:41 AM
Subscribing, I would love to know what to do.
Usually when I bring up this question I get very useless answers.

ksmyss
10-24-2009, 02:40 PM
here is a former post talking about it.

http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6044

CALL911
10-24-2009, 06:28 PM
I've got a Moser 12 bolt in mine. It fit pretty good. I just had to get a relocation bar for the rear sway bar to make it not rub the two. Strange 12 bolts seem to fit a little better.

gregrob
10-25-2009, 12:40 AM
I've got a Moser 12 bolt in mine. It fit pretty good. I just had to get a relocation bar for the rear sway bar to make it not rub the two. Strange 12 bolts seem to fit a little better.


Is this a 12 bolt designed for an F-body?

gregrob
10-25-2009, 12:50 AM
here is a former post talking about it.

http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6044


That's awesome! I'd love to do something like that.

Question on the collars, how did you secure the axle tubes to the collars, by welding them?

and how did you know you weren't making the axle tubes too wide? Just by careful measuring I guess.

I could have the machine shop make something like that.

CALL911
10-25-2009, 10:05 AM
Is this a 12 bolt designed for an F-body?

Yes it is, sorry if you were looking for other info.

gregrob
10-26-2009, 04:42 PM
Its cool man. Just looking for info on who has fabbed up a rear to work that wasnt originally intended for a fourth gen f body.

ksmyss
10-27-2009, 08:41 AM
That's awesome! I'd love to do something like that.

Question on the collars, how did you secure the axle tubes to the collars, by welding them?

and how did you know you weren't making the axle tubes too wide? Just by careful measuring I guess.

I could have the machine shop make something like that.

yes, the collars were welded along with the axle tubes. i also added braces along the top and bottom to just add extra strength. it looks like this but on the top and a smaller one on the bottom

http://image.off-roadweb.com/f/12173197/0810or_18_z+ford_9_inch_axle_nine_inch_nailed_part _i+e.jpg

fwi, the 8.8 axle tubes are 2.8" and the 10 bolt axle tube is 2.66"

gregrob
10-28-2009, 01:10 AM
Thats not that much difference. Did you add any plug welds to the collars, or just perimeter weld them?

ksmyss
10-28-2009, 07:08 AM
it's not much of a difference but its enough.

just perimeter welded but the braces took care of the rest. if i wasnt gona do the braces i would have made the collars longr and added plug welds. that probably would have been fine but i only wanted to do it once and i have seen first hand what happens when a pumkin spins on the axle tubes.

jakesz28
10-30-2009, 10:10 AM
The problem I see from attaching the 10 bolt axle tubes to a 8.8 and adding braces. Most rearends are fully welded and the bearing flanges on the end are added last. The reason behind this is it is just about impossible to do much welding to a rearend or anything else without pulling it. What happens when you add that much heat all the way around a tube or just to one side like adding a back brace is the heat will pull and disturt the housing. Then the axle bearing flanges are located with a jig to hold them in allingment with the carrier. If it is pulled much at all I think bearing fallures or an axle failure will occur.
I would say that is a nice option if done correctly.