what do i need?

[warnerTA]

alright i wanna do a cam swap.. and i wanna go big. something like a cc503.. basically all i have done to my engine right now is headers and CAI, MSD. and what would i all need with the cc503? springs? valves? injectors? rr?


thanks in advance :) i know nothin about cams lol

[PipesTA]

Plan on cam, pushrods, lifters, valve seals, springs & hardware, rockers, rocker studs, guideplates, timing set, intake manifold gaskets, WP gaskets, timing gasket set, couple oil filters, oil, coolant, silicone, locktite, thread sealant, possible Opti & waterpump depending on miles. That'll get you started :)

[warnerTA]

what kind of springs? lt4? how long of pushrods? 7"? lol

[PipesTA]

For the 503 cam the Crane 10308 kit would work. Comes with retainers and locks. As for the PR length, you'd have to measure with a pushrod length tool.

[warnerTA]

ls7 lifters work out good? haha im sorry for all the questions but i dont know much about this

[PipesTA]

Yes, they work good. They are a stock replacement. Search is your friend. There's a ton of info on LT1 cam swaps. :)

[Firefighter Z]

This the parts I have and I reused.

- Comp Cams XE503 camshaft (CC503)
- Crane Cams 10308-1 Valve Springs
- Crane Cam Gold 1.6 rocker arms
- Stock Pushrods (They will work with the cc503 setup)
- Stock Lifters (Same as above)

If you wanna save money inspect your pushrods to make sure they are straight, use the table top roll test and look for gashes on your lifters and see if they roll.

My car had 187k on the clock and the PR's and Lifters look brand new but I still inspected them and they were fine and now they're in my car.

Valve seals I reused, no problems.
Rocker studs you can do with out but just inspect them to be sure.
Go with a EWP electronic water pump. a good friend showed me a trick in how to plug the WP drive gear hole and it's really cheap!

But what everyone else said, thats what you'll need... Make sure you go with a double roller timing chain and sprocket if you do the EWP.

[meissen]

WhiteThunderZ28: Dang man, still have Chad's hood and ground effects on your car unpainted? ;)

To the OP, I second WhiteThunder's comments about the pushrods. While it would definitely be a good idea to check just to make sure, I will openly admit that I did not measure my pushrod length because I read on another forum from a well respected valvetrain geometry guru that in 99% of cases, stock pushrod length is fine though might hinder a few HP in performance if it's not the perfect length. Doesn't hurt to check and make sure, in my case I had already ordered stock-length pushrods before I knew about measuring and after reading the guy's comments I stuck with what I had.

The main thing that will guide you is how much money you have available to spend and how much maintenance stuff you want to do "as insurance." For example, as long as the lifters look OK, you can usually get away with reusing them.. As long as the valve stem seals are in good condition, you don't have to buy new ones but at the same time... depending on miles, it'd be a good time to replace them since the heads are torn apart and they are fairly cheap. Another thing is while you have the engine torn apart, if you can remove the oil pan and oil pump, it'd be a good time to take the oil pump and pickup tube to the local muffler shop and ask them to tack weld the pickup tube onto the oil pump so you don't have to worry about the pickup tube falling off like has happened to others. And then while you're there with the oil pan off, do you check the bearings and make sure all your bearings look good? Bearings are cheap to buy but when they go bad they'll tear your block up.

Don't be surprised when you get done and you're 2-3 grand deep into the project. :)

[Firefighter Z]

WhiteThunderZ28: Dang man, still have Chad's hood and ground effects on your car unpainted? ;)

To the OP, I second WhiteThunder's comments about the pushrods. While it would definitely be a good idea to check just to make sure, I will openly admit that I did not measure my pushrod length because I read on another forum from a well respected valvetrain geometry guru that in 99% of cases, stock pushrod length is fine though might hinder a few HP in performance if it's not the perfect length. Doesn't hurt to check and make sure, in my case I had already ordered stock-length pushrods before I knew about measuring and after reading the guy's comments I stuck with what I had.

The main thing that will guide you is how much money you have available to spend and how much maintenance stuff you want to do "as insurance." For example, as long as the lifters look OK, you can usually get away with reusing them.. As long as the valve stem seals are in good condition, you don't have to buy new ones but at the same time... depending on miles, it'd be a good time to replace them since the heads are torn apart and they are fairly cheap. Another thing is while you have the engine torn apart, if you can remove the oil pan and oil pump, it'd be a good time to take the oil pump and pickup tube to the local muffler shop and ask them to tack weld the pickup tube onto the oil pump so you don't have to worry about the pickup tube falling off like has happened to others. And then while you're there with the oil pan off, do you check the bearings and make sure all your bearings look good? Bearings are cheap to buy but when they go bad they'll tear your block up.

Don't be surprised when you get done and you're 2-3 grand deep into the project. :)

Yup there still untouched, just been doing motor work, etc.

Yea look at the bearings and replace them for insurance also get new lt1 rod bolts, I stripped the #3and 5 and threw the rods.
For a head gasket, go with the MR GASKET #5716 they are 0.26 thick and will bump up the compression to 11:1 instead of 10:5:1, they are like $44.00 at autozone for the set. You won't see much is any hp but every little bit helps.

[warnerTA]

what do you guys think about this? is this the comp cams503? if so this is a pretty good deal! i hate buyin shit off ebay but if i can get most of what i need right here then i will do it.. tell me what ya think about it.............

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Comp-Cams-K08-503-8-Camshaft-Kit-Cs-Xr276Hr-12_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2Q7c 39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a1205Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a 1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem5 881693aa1QQitemZ380128279201QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTr uckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQQsalenotsupported

[Firefighter Z]

I dont know anyone that has that kit, but I wouldn't get matched valve springs. You always wanna go the biggest you can go.

[warnerTA]

alright i will see if he can take the springs out of the deal :) and see what he says :)

[JAKEJR]

When I built my 388 I used the 10308 kit. Got it from SummitRacing.com

Jake

West Point ROCKS!

[boosted95z]

If you really want to know exactly what you need and want a kit that will be right for your car, CALL THEM. They usually know what they're doing, and if they don't, they have a computer program that helps them. It takes maybe 20 minutes, and will save you a lot of hassle when it comes to verifying correct parts. I did that for my custom blower cam. The price wasn't too bad either... $740 for everything except pushrods and RRs. $1000+/-

[BOOSTNU]

WarnerTa where do you live? May have a deal for you if interested pm me. I maybe have some springs.

[Black96z28]

cc503 is a good cam, i am enjoying it. mine made some pretty respectable numbers with a stock dying fuel pump and some still undetermined ignition gremlin.

As for mods: Ported Stock Intake and heads, SVO 30# injectors, 1.6RR, LS7 Lifters, CC503 cam, CC Pushrods, ARP Studs, Pacesetter longtubes and O/R Y-pipe, 58mm Throttle Body, Moroso CAI, 3in. Magnaflow Catback, obd1 conversion

as for the pushrods, i have these (http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/7808-16/10002/-1)

Word of advice, I know youll be anxious to get it done, but trust me, take your time, double check everything and do it right... it sucks having to tear everything back apart because the opti dowel isnt in... or a wiring/plug snafu..