Electric water pump wiring "warning system"

[TRANSAMPIMP]

My :gun_bandana:Opti went to pooooh:poo: on me finally. To my knowledge the unit has over 140,000 miles. So I figured the water pump could go at anytime, and should be changed. I already have a water pump thats ready for the CSR pump I'm looking at. I was curious how you guys have gone around wiring these things up. Does the CSR kit include a relay harness? I was going to order the Painless kit, but I'd like something that has a LED light, a switch for when the car is off, and possibly a LED that will flash when the power cuts off.

I found this diagram online today.

http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/electric-water-pump-wiring/

I know I can't just hook up some LED's to this, do I need resistors? What do you guys recommend. I'm terrible with this wiring stuff.

[Alex94TAGT]

This is the diagram I used, though I slightly modified it to work with an illuminated rocker switch (so you can shut off the pump while programming or whatever):

http://www.lt1info.com/TECH/Temp/2ledmez.jpg

If the ground fails, one of the LEDs will turn on -- if the power fails or the pump fails, the other will turn on. Just install them within your line of sight. You can buy the large and small diodes at radioshack -- just make sure to get the polarity right (diodes will allow current in one direction, but not the other).

As for the other questions, I can't offer any specific advice, as I installed a Meziere.

[Alex94TAGT]

PS -- some people choose to install a warning buzzer as opposed to LEDs, so that's an option as well. Either way, you'll still have the temp gauge on the dash, and you should get a warning light on the dash if the car starts to overheat.

[BluBeaSSt]

I bought a payneless wireing set when I did mine a couple year's back

[Boostin' Ain't Easy]

I got a Mezeire one. Very satisfied with it.

[TRANSAMPIMP]

This is the diagram I used, though I slightly modified it to work with an illuminated rocker switch (so you can shut off the pump while programming or whatever):

http://www.lt1info.com/TECH/Temp/2ledmez.jpg

If the ground fails, one of the LEDs will turn on -- if the power fails or the pump fails, the other will turn on. Just install them within your line of sight. You can buy the large and small diodes at radioshack -- just make sure to get the polarity right (diodes will allow current in one direction, but not the other).

As for the other questions, I can't offer any specific advice, as I installed a Meziere.

Thats what I'm looking for. I think I'll go ahead and order the Painless relay kit with the CSR pump. Then its off to radio shack this week to pick up all the goodies. This should go well with my manual fan switch, and LED's. I'm going to end up having more questions on the general install of the LED's seems how my wiring knowledge is terrible. If I have a good diagram I can usually pull it off.

If anyone else has any input that would be great. I'm new to the wiring thing, I want to make sure I do this right the first time.

[Alex94TAGT]

What all comes with the painless wiring kit? It's really nothing you can't do yourself -- you'd save money at least. Relays are only a few bucks, and you can buy 14-gauge wire anywhere. I installed one in an empty slot in my underhood fuse box. Everything looks stock.

http://www.lt1info.com/TECH/Temp/Underhood%20Fuse%20Box.jpg

BTW -- if you're not used to reading wiring diagrams:
1) The big box with the numbers 86, 87, etc. is an Automotive Relay (usually 30 amps).
2) Squiggly line with jagged edges is a resistor. You can pick those up at Radioshack as well.
3) The little triangles with the line in front is a diode -- either standard or light-emitting (LED). There's an anode and cathode -- they are directional -- so you might invest in a digital voltmeter if you don't already have one, as it will be useful in determining which way to orient the diode. If you get it backwards, no current will flow, and your pump wont turn on.


Again, I used 14 gauge wire. I believe these pumps draw around 8-10 amps of current. The pumps should come with an inline fuse on the power wire -- it's important to keep that, since you'll be running this straight off the battery.

Relays are pretty neat -- they are essentially an automatic switch/trigger. I've used them for all sorts of things, like the waterpump, the amps for my stereo (since the amp was still somehow drawing current even when off), and accessory lights on my motorcycle. They essentially have two circuits running through them. One power and ground to act as a trigger, and one power and ground to supply power to your pump. It only takes a small amount of power to the 'trigger side' of the relay to switch on the 'load side', which, again, can handle up to 30A of current to the load.

You never have to worry about accidentally leaving something on, since you hook up the 'trigger' side of the relay to a switched power source -- ie, a source that only has power with the key in the 'on' position -- like your ignition circuit.

[JoeliusZ28]

honestly I dont think this warning system is worth the hassle at all, i decided not to do it on mine. I pay just as much attention to my temperature gauge (which senses cyl head temperature) as I would yet another LED on my console. If my temps start getting hotter than normal im shuttin her down, and if they get to a certain point the fans kick on (which kick on my bright fan LEDs)

Either way the driver has to catch it and frankly a little heat aint gonna hurt a chevy... small blocks get pegged to the rev limiter all the time in demo derby's without a wink of coolant left in them, and theyll keep coming back for more....granted those usually dont have aluminum heads but still, look where GM set the fans to come on from the factory.

i know that doesnt help, but just throwing it out there.

[TRANSAMPIMP]

I got the pump, Opti, and harness today:finger:. I went to Radio shack, picked up the resistors, diod, and LED's. I already have a switch. I noticed that the painless kit comes with a small metal circuit breaker. No fuse is in the kit. The CSR pump says specifically not to use anything more than a 15a fuse. The circuit breaker is labeled 30a. Should I just pick up a fuse kit, and forget the circuit breaker :doh:thing ????

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e365/transampimp/photo.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e365/transampimp/a0b453b1.jpg

[JoeliusZ28]

make sure you press the impeller out in the correct direction. I skimmed the instructions and made that mistake on mine - fortunately my pump housing survived.