LS steering shaft *Write Up*

[96LT1355Z28]

Let me start this out by crediting “The Merv” and “96lt1m6” on LS1Tech for providing the information to do this. I figured I’d do a step by step write up so everyone can see just how simple this is. The LT1 cars came with a “rag joint” which is made of rubber and breaks down over time. This process is speed up with the installation of headers which bring extreme heat to the rubber. The result is loose or sloppy feeling steering due to the flex in the deteriorated rubber joint. LS1 cars use u-joint style ends and can be easily modified to fit LT1 cars. An added benefit of the smaller u-joint is additional room for header clearance.

First what you’ll need:

-Steering shaft from an LS1 car
-11mm or7/16” socket or wrench to remove the steering shaft
-Hammer and a punch or similar object (air hammer if you’re spoiled)
-Small grinding tool (Dremel or metal grinding bit)
-Access to a welder (any exhaust shop should help you out if you don’t have one)
-A bench vise comes in very handy but isn’t required

2599

Start by removing the bolts from the stock steering shaft. There is one at the top and one at the bottom. Then remove the shaft from the car, it may take some mild persuasion if it’s never been off!

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http://ltxtech.com/forums/picture.php?pictureid=825&albumid=255&dl=1238558741&thumb=1 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=255&pictureid=825)

Once it’s out set it next to the LS shaft and you can see exactly what you have to do. The ends of the LS shaft are slightly off compared to the LT one.

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http://ltxtech.com/forums/picture.php?pictureid=826&albumid=255&dl=1238558741&thumb=1 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=255&pictureid=826)

The LS shaft has an end that is splined and can be removed and re-indexed to match your LT shaft. If this isn’t done the steering wheel would be off in the car. You will need to grind off the area where the factory crimped the splined shaft so it can be removed.

2602
http://ltxtech.com/forums/picture.php?pictureid=832&albumid=255&dl=1238558845&thumb=1 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=255&pictureid=832)

Once you’ve ground off the factory crimp you must separate the two pieces. I used a bench vice and an air hammer. After you’ve separated them lay the pieces next to your LT shaft so you can see where you need to index the splines. I put a screwdriver through the fixed ends to aid in keeping the shafts aligned. You can see the LT shaft is not a perfect 90 degrees.

2603
23441
http://ltxtech.com/forums/picture.php?pictureid=828&albumid=255&dl=1238558783&thumb=1 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=255&pictureid=828)
http://ltxtech.com/forums/picture.php?pictureid=827&albumid=255&dl=1238558741&thumb=1 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=255&pictureid=827)
http://ltxtech.com/forums/picture.php?pictureid=829&albumid=255&dl=1238558783&thumb=1 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=255&pictureid=829)

Once you’ve re-indexed the u-joint end you’ll need to press it back onto the shaft. I used the bench vice, a block of wood, and a hammer. Make sure to put it back in the same spot it was in when you removed it (don’t hit it on too far).

Next clean off some spots on the splined area and put a few tack welds on to hold the two pieces together. This does the same thing as the factory crimp you ground off earlier.
23442


Congratulations now install your new LS steering shaft in your car and enjoy more header clearance and tighter steering!
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http://ltxtech.com/forums/picture.php?pictureid=831&albumid=255&dl=1238558810&thumb=1 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=255&pictureid=831)

[96lt1m6]

damn i did not get any credit for this
about time someone did a write up w/pics. i have done a few but i never seem to take pics when i am working(don't think of it ) good job bro.however, what is the 9/16 wrench or socket for? the bolts that hold the shaft on are 7/16

when completed it is cleaner and less bulky than the ragjoint eliminator!


http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/1079569-rag-joint-eliminator.html

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/1021501-installing-rag-joint-eliminator.html

[MeanGreen94Z]

haha i JUST bought one of these and had planned on doing a write up :) i always use a 11mm socket lol

[96LT1355Z28]

what is the 9/16 wrench or socket for? the bolts that hold the shaft on are 7/16

Changed, I couldn't remember what I used! I took pics and then did the write up a few days later!;)

[mr maimi]

if i remember i think rudy was the first one that did that

[Ponch95]

I just finnished this project Friday, I love the results:finger: Followed the write-up to the letter Thanks guys.

[Fixxer99TA]

Good post, might actually get around to do this one this winter. Sounds like its had good results, and is really a GREAT idea.

[96lt1m6]

Good post, might actually get around to do this one this winter. Sounds like its had good results, and is really a GREAT idea.

oh you bet it is, since i did this last year my car has much stronger/tighter steering its a cleaner approach than the ragjoint elim kit

[Nocturnal Z]

I just picked up an LS1 steering shaft and was getting ready to start grinding when I thought of something....

I have an aftermarket steering wheel, therefore no longer have an airbag clock spring...is there any reason why I couldn't install the LS1 shaft as-is, then simply remove my steering wheel and adaper and re-clock it so the steering wheel sits strait? Is there any reason I shouldn't do it that way?

[96lt1m6]

Should not make much of a difference for your situation however if it were mine i would still mod the shaft!

[Nocturnal Z]

Should not make much of a difference for your situation however if it were mine i would still mod the shaft!

Is there something othet than the clockspring in the steering column that has to be clocked a certain way to function properly or something? Only thing I knew of was the clockspring and I have eliminated it...so whats the reason why you would still mod the shaft if you were in my shoes?

[96lt1m6]

Simply because it keeps it at the 12 o' clock position,also keeps the horn wiring intact.......

[Nocturnal Z]

Well I can re-clock the adapter to maintain the 12 o'clock position, thats what I sayin. Not sure about the horn wiring issue, but the wire for it just slides through a hole in the adapter, so shouldn't be a big deal now that the clock spring is gone.

I understand that for anyone that wants to keep the airbag, moding the shaft is a must. I'm just not sure that moding the shaft is the only option in my case.

Maybe I just need to get out in my cold-ass garage and remove the steering wheel to see what I'm up against here.

I'm certainly not one to half-ass anything on my car, so if there is a good reason why I shouldn't do it this way then I won't. I just wanna be sure before I go cutting on an otherwise perfectly good steering shaft. :)

[Twisted Z]

if i remember i think rudy was the first one that did that


I did one back in 99 ;)

[94basemodel]

Well looks like Ive got to do this mod now. More work for this winter.

[iggy913]

What does an LS shaft cost? If you had to buy one I would imagine it isn't but so cheap?

What about other options to gain header clearance and steering feel? Jegs sells all kinds of steering shafts and u-joints for not a whole lot of money, and you would have a brand new piece. For instance you can buy two U-joints and an 18" long steering shaft for $140 total, isn't that all you would need? Does anyone know what size the fittings would need to be to go over the steering column and the steering box? If you really needed room and had some more money they also sell a double u-joint that you could put on the steering box end and almost have a straight shot at the column huging the inner fender all the way up.

Just some ideas, I'm very interested in possibilities since my headers rub my steering shaft now.

[n2ocamaro]

I paid $30.00 shipped for a used LS steering shaft from a member on LS1Tech.

[wyldcdn]

so much easier. I found this. With access to a lift. Took me about 20 min up and down. Works great.
http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/Rag_Joint/

[Sempire]

so much easier. I found this. With access to a lift. Took me about 20 min up and down. Works great.
http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/Rag_Joint/

That's what I did.. Made life much easier, specially for the price..

Would like to further stiffen up my steering though.. I would almost love to go manual steering..

[96LT1355Z28]

That's a nice kit but it takes up just as much room as the stock rag joint, some poeple do this mod not only for the tighter steering but to gain clearance for headers.:cool:

[black heartbeat]

I just bought the steering shaft but I don't have an air hammer so this may be interesting, plus my rag joint is so worn I man need to drill out the rivets and bolt them together on the rag joint to get it to sit at the right angle to match the ls1 to it

[ShakerTransAm]

Just figured I would add an interesting piece of info to this. I decided to put an A1 Cardone remanufactured LS rack in my 95 formula M6 while doing the LS shaft mod. I researched whether or not to modify the shaft because of the LS rack being installed. Everything i seemed to find said that i still needed to modify the shaft and that the difference was in the steering column NOT the rack. Well i went and cut apart my new LS shaft i just bought and matched it perfectly to my stock LT shaft. When i went to bolt everything together, the shaft was 90 degrees off.....Would have bolted right up if i didn't modify the LS shaft....now i have to either cut mine back apart (which sucks because i sort of over did it with the tack welds) or buy yet another LS shaft and bolt it up right out of the box

[popo8]

Just figured I would add an interesting piece of info to this. I decided to put an A1 Cardone remanufactured LS rack in my 95 formula M6 while doing the LS shaft mod. I researched whether or not to modify the shaft because of the LS rack being installed. Everything i seemed to find said that i still needed to modify the shaft and that the difference was in the steering column NOT the rack. Well i went and cut apart my new LS shaft i just bought and matched it perfectly to my stock LT shaft. When i went to bolt everything together, the shaft was 90 degrees off.....Would have bolted right up if i didn't modify the LS shaft....now i have to either cut mine back apart (which sucks because i sort of over did it with the tack welds) or buy yet another LS shaft and bolt it up right out of the box

Looks like popo is getting the shaft.... lol

[96lt1m6]

Shaker...
This is quite disturbing to me..... I used a steering column from a 19k SS,steering shaft along with my stock Lt1steering rack with the shaft being the only modded part in my 96 z :(

[LeadfootLT1]

Shaker...
This is quite disturbing to me..... I used a steering column from a 19k SS,steering shaft along with my stock Lt1steering rack with the shaft being the only modded part in my 96 z :(


Because the columns are the same. Look at it this way. The lt shaft matches the lt rack. The ls shaft matches the ls rack. Regardless of the column. So putting a ls shaft with a lt rack calls for modifying the shaft and viceversa.

When I put the shaft in my car(97ta) I also put a ls rack in thinking it was the same. But after going over everything in my car I realized I didn't have to mod the shaft and figured I must have the newer steering column since my car was the hybrid year. It wasn't until Tyler found out the hardway that the column is the same but rack is diff. Also in his research if I'm not mistaken the ls rack has a different ratio. Made both of our cars feel alot better when cornering.

[popo8]

And now SHakers modified LS shaft is nicely attached to my LT rack.....

[1badz]

I too have the shaft. Modified it the same way as it was described in the first post.

[vetwnab]

Quick question on the "LS" shafts. Do all 98-02 V6 and V8 cars have the same shaft? My local wrecking yards have plenty of 98-02 V6 cars, but no V8 cars. I would assume that they are all the same.

[Spartan7]

My 99 V6 did NOT have it. It matched the LT shaft with the ragjoint.

[Jencks]

i just did this mod 5 minutes ago and it made a massive difference in my car! worth every cent of the $30 shipped. my original steering linkage had bad u joints and the rag joint was just totally shot..car feels like new.

[blkchevyz]

nice write up, i did this yesterday. needed the add clearance of the ls1 shaft for my turbo build.
grinding part was a bit of a pain.

[Greasemunkey]

Great write up cant wait to install my ls shaft and tighten things up

[Lt1son]

So i just did this mod and noticed that the shaft isnt seated properly on the rack in the picture provided in the 1st post... I actualy extended the ls shaft and welded it inside and out to make it long enough. Just a FYI ive seen shafts fall off from not being seated.... Awesome write-up!! cant wait til winter is over to see how it feels!!!!

[harner]

Probably should have looked at this thread prior to buying the ragjoint eliminator kit.

[96LT1355Z28]

So i just did this mod and noticed that the shaft isnt seated properly on the rack in the picture provided in the 1st post... I actualy extended the ls shaft and welded it inside and out to make it long enough. Just a FYI ive seen shafts fall off from not being seated.... Awesome write-up!! cant wait til winter is over to see how it feels!!!!

I had just put it on to take the pic, good catch though!

[Lt1son]

Ahhh ok. Just would hate to see anything happen! Awesome writeup!!

[Lt1son]

since the ls1 shaft doesnt clapse like the lt1 how is that going to effect steering over bumps???

[popo8]

since the ls1 shaft doesnt clapse like the lt1 how is that going to effect steering over bumps???

The LT1 does not collapse over bumps either...

[96LT1355Z28]

The rack and shaft shouldn't move as the suspension articulates.

[Lt1son]

Got ya.. Maybe my lt shaft was broke then lol. came off in twi pieces..

[popo8]

If the vehicle (in many vehicles) is involved in a front in a front end collision, there is usually a colapse pin that will break and allow the column to collapse rather than stay rigid and stick the steering wheel into the driver's chest.

[mastawyrm]

Just an additional FYI for anyone looking to do this. If you can't seem to get your LS1 shaft to separate, you haven't ground enough yet. I really thought I had ground the entire tab down but my air chisel was only digging lines into the end piece. After getting really frustrated and grinding another few, seemingly unnecessary, mms further the air chisel pushed the end right off without much issue.

[captainofiron]

I was looking to do this mod on my WS6 because the rag joint is pretty fried.

Just out of curiosity, is the bottom connection on the rack a splined connection? like on the old cars with the steering gear?

If so, what is stopping you from just clocking the bottom connection at the rack instead of cutting and welding?

[Sahara54]

Just out of curiosity, is the bottom connection on the rack a splined connection? like on the old cars with the steering gear?

If so, what is stopping you from just clocking the bottom connection at the rack instead of cutting and welding?

No, the rack cant be clocked. If i remember correct the top is a slip fit with a bolt down the center and the bottom has a notch cut of for a bolt to lock the shaft in place. It's very easy to grind the crimp away and have it tacked up. If you don't have a welder, I'm sure and exhaust shop would do it for a few bucks. It not like it need much of a weld. I've done 3 of them and it takes like 20 mins total.

[captainofiron]

No, the rack cant be clocked. If i remember correct the top is a slip fit with a bolt down the center and the bottom has a notch cut of for a bolt to lock the shaft in place. It's very easy to grind the crimp away and have it tacked up. If you don't have a welder, I'm sure and exhaust shop would do it for a few bucks. It not like it need much of a weld. I've done 3 of them and it takes like 20 mins total.

ah ok, so the input shaft on the rack is keyed and not splined

I couldnt find a good picture, but from experience almost every steering gear I have worked on was splined, so I was hoping that was the case on these, I guess not

Yea it looks like a reasonably easy mod, and I am definitely going to do it, just as an engineer I have learned to be like Mulder and question everything, hahaha

[The Batman]

Any point to doing this if I already have a rag joint eliminator?

[Sahara54]

Any point to doing this if I already have a rag joint eliminator?

Header clearance...If you don't have an issue, no.

[captainofiron]

from a cost standpoint (for me), I think the ragjoint eliminator might be slightly cheaper, unbalanced sells it for $37

the cheapest LS shaft I could find was on ebay for $35, and add anything that a shop charges you to tack weld it.

the one thing in my mind that could be good or bad is what condition the U-joints on the shaft are in compared to the one you have

[SSlowBoat]

from a cost standpoint (for me), I think the ragjoint eliminator might be slightly cheaper, unbalanced sells it for $37

the cheapest LS shaft I could find was on ebay for $35, and add anything that a shop charges you to tack weld it.

the one thing in my mind that could be good or bad is what condition the U-joints on the shaft are in compared to the one you have
but a rag joint eliminator doesn't help clearance issues with headers like an ls shaft does

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[Stormyweather]

Dont PS LT clear?

on the phone using Tapatalk

[captainofiron]

Dont PS LT clear?

on the phone using Tapatalk

IMO only the cheap/poorly engineered ones.

mine have plenty of room with the ragjoint

also just tried to order the ragjoint eliminator, and those guys want $7 shipping! that is way higher than I expected, just pushed me back into considering the LS shaft

[SSlowBoat]

IMO only the cheap/poorly engineered ones.

mine have plenty of room with the ragjoint

also just tried to order the ragjoint eliminator, and those guys want $7 shipping! that is way higher than I expected, just pushed me back into considering the LS shaft
guess the lpp stepped stainless headers suck?

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[Stormyweather]

IMO only the cheap/poorly engineered ones.

mine have plenty of room with the ragjoint

also just tried to order the ragjoint eliminator, and those guys want $7 shipping! that is way higher than I expected, just pushed me back into considering the LS shaft
What brand are yours if you don't mind me asking?

It's not how fast you mow. It's how you mow fast.

[SSlowBoat]

pacesetter and hooker clear no issues

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[Stormyweather]

pacesetter and hooker clear no issues

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Thanks that's what I was looking for.

It's not how fast you mow. It's how you mow fast.

[Stormyweather]

guess the lpp stepped stainless headers suck?

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Isnt those the ones you had or have for sale?

on the phone using Tapatalk

[SSlowBoat]

Isnt those the ones you had or have for sale?

on the phone using Tapatalk
sold em. didn't like the fit with the procharger

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[captainofiron]

guess the lpp stepped stainless headers suck?

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not really familiar with those, but what it seems like is some companies just copy an existing design (from another vehicle) and slightly modify it without really testing it (or enough)


What brand are yours if you don't mind me asking?

It's not how fast you mow. It's how you mow fast.

mine are FLP

[Stormyweather]

Yeah understandable. I want headers but I dont want to paint myself in a corner. .

on the phone using Tapatalk

[fullforce]

I had pacesetters on my last car with no clearance issues, and now have the Stainless ones off ebay (very good quality by the way) with no issues at all, I did remove the plastic shield around the shaft of course though.

[Stormyweather]

Those are the 7/8 ones right?

It's not how fast you mow. It's how you mow fast.

[SSlowBoat]

Those are the 7/8 ones right?

It's not how fast you mow. It's how you mow fast.
1 7/8" that neck down into 2.5" collectors. counterproductive don't ya think?

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[Stormyweather]

They didnt seem right. For sure . I knew this guy who plumbed his drag boat fuel system. With 3/8 To a filter reg combo then ran 1/2 to twin quads asked him dont you think thats counter productive? Go big stay big I say.
.

I dont live to work.I work to live

[slikrider20]

So I just got done doing this. I got lucky and found a shaft out of a V6 Camaro with the f41 suspension for $35. I then took it to a local shop to reclock it and he did it for free. The steering wheel is still slightly off center, but not much. Should I just get an alignment?

[SSlowBoat]

So I just got done doing this. I got lucky and found a shaft out of a V6 Camaro with the f41 suspension for $35. I then took it to a local shop to reclock it and he did it for free. The steering wheel is still slightly off center, but not much. Should I just get an alignment?

you could try, it may correct it

[Stormyweather]

F41 is that like the WS6?

It's not how fast you mow. It's how you mow fast.

[slikrider20]

F41 is that like the WS6?

It's not how fast you mow. It's how you mow fast.

I have no idea. I was under the assumption that the V6 camaros came standard with the rag joint, and well, this did not. The junkyard guy mentioned it had the F41 suspension....that's about all I know.

Hopefully the alignment fixes it.

[Sahara54]

I have no idea. I was under the assumption that the V6 camaros came standard with the rag joint, and well, this did not. The junkyard guy mentioned it had the F41 suspension....that's about all I know.

Hopefully the alignment fixes it.

F41 is the RPO for the normal v6 rack...3 turns lock to lock

If it had a LS1 rack it was a Y87 car. That car would've had 3.42's, LS rack (FE2) and springs and rear disks

[Afterburner82]

Stupid question: If you can reclock the steering wheel why is modifying the shaft necessary to keep the airbag? Doesn’t the wiring run up through the middle column and plug in from there to the wheel and airbag?

[SSlowBoat]

Stupid question: If you can reclock the steering wheel why is modifying the shaft necessary to keep the airbag? Doesn’t the wiring run up through the middle column and plug in from there to the wheel and airbag?

the clock spring in the column references wheel position/supplies power to airbag. simply moving the steering wheel does nothing to correct the fact the shaft would be 90 degrees out on the clock spring inside the column

[marosekcmo]

I know this is an old post, but I need help with this. I'm having a hard time knowing what exactly I'm supposed to grind off. I've grind what I I thought was the tabs and I still can't get the two pieces to separate.

[SSlowBoat]

you have to grind the center area flush to the knuckle, then beat the hell out of it to get it off.39844

[96LT1355Z28]

^^What he said, even then it's sometime a real PITA to get them to separate, especially if the shaft has a lot of corrosion or rust.

[marosekcmo]

Thanks! That helps a ton. I got that part ground down but I'm still having a hard time separating the two pieces. Is there a best place to strike the shaft to get them to separate?

[Sahara54]

I've done it a few times and had to use a vice and a air hammer on the face above each crimp.