Balancer removal

[1997vertz]

I have a 97 LT1 that I am trying to get the balancer off and am having trouble getting the peice that the balancer is connected to off. I have the balancer off but not the back peice. Please Help:monkey:

[My95Z]

The hub?

If so you need a puller and you have to make sure it is narrow enough that it goes through the hub bolt location and down to the crank to push against.

[95greenZ]

The way I always do it is find a bolt small enough that won't thread into the crank so the puller will push against the bolt head.

[My95Z]

The way I always do it is find a bolt small enough that won't thread into the crank so the puller will push against the bolt head.

Thats the same way I did mine, only I ended up using several different length bolts to get the hub all the way off.

[95formula383lt1]

i used a stock sbc balencer bolt just took the washer off put it in there through a few threads put a cheap steering wheel/balencer puller on it an carefully used a air impact on it came off easy!

[Spartan7]

i used a stock sbc balencer bolt just took the washer off put it in there through a few threads put a cheap steering wheel/balencer puller on it an carefully used a air impact on it came off easy!

You don't want to thread anything into the crank and then press against it. You can damage the threads. You want a bolt that is smaller than the threads and will bottom out in the crank snout. I use a 1/4" extension.

[joelster]

I did a small writeup on how to do it a while ago, but I can't find it. All of the previous posts are correct, but the "best" bolt that you can use is an allen headed bolt. You want one about 4 inches long and slightly smaller in diameter than the threaded hle of the crank. The purpose of the allen headed bolt is that the "center punch" ( the pointed part) of the puller will stay put inside of the allen head, and not slip off, this is crucial.

Most guys who attempt to take the hub off for the first time simply take a peek inside and think that the puller itself will be bottomed onto the crank snout. This is incorrect. There is a small step on the inside of the hub which will catch the puller. They will then hit it with an air gun for a few minutes and nothing will happen. What they are really doing is literally attempting to rib the hub apart, and it is pretty tough, lol.

Once you get the proper bolt in place and get the puller on correctly, the hub will come off in under 20 seconds every time, no matter how stuck it is.

[Fastbird]

One note I'd add: If you can find a hardened bolt, use one of those. EVERY bolt I've used to remove a hub has been a one time shot.

[meissen]

Totally agree with Sean.

This *WAS* a hardened piece of steel that my dad used for pounding with a sledge hammer. This is after we used it to pull the hub off.

http://meissenation.com/pictures/2009-01-25/puller%20003.jpg