How do I stop wheel hop

[IronOutlaw]

Question is in the title. I never had this problem with the firebird. It would just spin smoothly.
The car has the eibach pro kit with stock shocks, everything else suspension wise is stock. How bad are those hurting me? I hope not too much because the car looks sick with the stance.

[JPack]

need lower adj. lower control arms and relocation brackets. Adjust the lower control arms to be parallel with the ground sitting on the tires

[IronOutlaw]

Sorry, but can you give me a link to the ones that ill need.
Im retarded when it comes to suspension.

[KissMyWhtSS]

Non Adjustable:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BMR-TCA001R&N=700+4294848363+4294908216+4294924744+4294908198+ 4294908022+4294848358+115&autoview=sku
Adjustable:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=UPI-2016-R&N=700+4294848363+4294908216+4294924744+4294908198+ 4294908022+4294848358+115&autoview=sku

Since you're lowered your going to want relocation brackets:
http://www.umiperformance.com/2010?category_id=125

I'd say start with that, give it a little more practice and see where you're at. :)

[IronOutlaw]

ok, what is the difference in performance with the adjustible and non adjustible.

[KissMyWhtSS]

ok, what is the difference in performance with the adjustible and non adjustible.
It allows you to adjust for camber on the fly. Typically for your average user (weekend cruiser, takes it to the track once or twice per season) I'd say just get nonadjustable and be done with it.

I have non adjustable on my SS currently, I'd like to switch them out for adjustable, but I want to auto-x and road race mine, so I'll want to be able to make suspension adjustments on the fly.

I guess it comes down to, how much of a hobby is it for you and what are your ultimate goals for your car.

[IronOutlaw]

I think Ill go with adjustible. Im not cheaping out on this car, so Im gonna do it right the first time.
I probably will only bring the car to the track 3 or 4 times a year, but the adjustibles arent that much more.

[jakesz28]

The only need for adjustable LCA's is to set the tire/rearend in the center of the wheel wheel. That has no effect on chamber.


http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/Images/Align_Camber.gif
Camber is the angle of the wheel, measured in degrees, when viewed from the front of the vehicle. If the top of the wheel is leaning out from the center of the car, then the camber is positive ,if it's leaning in, then the camber is negative. If the camber is out of adjustment, it will cause tire wear on one side of the tire's tread. If the camber is too far negative, for instance, then the tire will wear on the inside of the tread.

I would say to get a double adjustable LCA if you deside to get an adjustable one. That way you do not have to unbolt the arm to rotate it and change the length.

[MeanGreen94Z]

i say leave the LCA's alone, get an adjustable torque arm and LCA relocation brackets.or if you can swing all 3... do that, i have fully adjustable Chromoly TA, LCAs, PHB and LCA relos and i can adjust everything lol but it makes things a pain sometimes.

[IronOutlaw]

i say leave the LCA's alone, get an adjustable torque arm and LCA relocation brackets.or if you can swing all 3... do that, i have fully adjustable Chromoly TA, LCAs, PHB and LCA relos and i can adjust everything lol but it makes things a pain sometimes.

Im having second thoughts on the adjustibles. I wouldnt want to mess with them all the time.
Basically this is my expectations for the car. I want to get to the low thirteens/ high twelves on my stock motor. Then when I get there Ill hook the bottle up and try to go low twelves, maybe even try to crack off an 11 depending on how the car runs and what all I do to it.
Will non adjustible stuff be okay for this. Im not looking for an all out racecar, I just want good traction and dont want to shake the car apart with wheel hop.

Thanks for the help guys, I know these are some noob questions.

[jakesz28]

I would get the adjustables. Once you set it your done. No need to make changes to the LCA's or panhard bars.

With the LCA's you will center the tire in the wheel wheel and maybe adjust it if the rear of the car is walking one way or the other. The main time to adjust this is if your tryiung to get a taller tire in wheel well.

The adjustable panhard bar is to center the rearend in the car side to side. Lets so your ride height has changed, that will move the rearend left or right. Once it's set your done.

[IronOutlaw]

Ok, I am lowered so I probably need the adjustibles. Thanks for the help. Im gonna try the LCAs and a panhard bar. Torque arm will come later if still needed, but they are a bit pricier than the other parts.

Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciate it.

[Wilburbeest]

Being lowered you don't need adjustable LCAs unless you have plans of running a taller tire. a poly/rod end setup is a bit better from what I understand though than a poly/poly setup so I guess you get that with the adjustable set too. The panhard bar should be adjustable though to center the rear end like was mentioned above. An adjustable torque arm isn't required, but it's probably a good idea since lowering knocks your pinion angle off a bit.

[KissMyWhtSS]

An adjustable torque arm isn't required, but it's probably a good idea since lowering knocks your pinion angle off a bit.
Good point. :)