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View Full Version : changing my fuel pump right now... problems.



crows93z
03-13-2009, 06:46 PM
yeah, i got the pump figured out.. thanks guys.

car's still cutting out at high rpms.. or idk if i should call it cutting out... it sounds like straight backfiring/popping from the exhaust once i pass 4500 rpms. in neutral, it doesn't behave the same way, no popping or anything... any ideas?

crows93z
03-13-2009, 06:56 PM
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Darkside Motorsports
03-13-2009, 09:12 PM
.....I think it's actually glued too. I just pried it loose, as carefully as I could, then re-assembled it with some epoxy, that said it was gasoline proof.

Fastbird
03-13-2009, 11:01 PM
The locking tabs that hold the bucket to the metal arm?? Those just pop in.

crows93z
03-13-2009, 11:41 PM
yeah, i got it figured out... car's still cutting out at high rpms.. or idk if i should call it cutting out... it sounds like straight backfiring/popping from the exhaust once i pass 4500 rpms. in neutral, it doesn't behave the same way, no popping or anything... any ideas?

95greenZ
03-14-2009, 12:21 AM
Coil maybe? Do you have a ignition box? If you have a box make sure its set on 8 cylinder. Got a gauge to check fuel pressure?

krayzie7th
03-14-2009, 12:22 AM
is it trowing turning the ses light on?

crows93z
03-14-2009, 12:30 AM
well it threw an ses light for about 10 seconds tonight and then turned off again. icm is fairly new, no ignition box. when autozone opens tomorrow i'll go and see if i can get a code. i'll also check fuel pressure and get back with you guys after i toss a new fuel filter on. drives fine around town, just when i get into it, it behaves like shit. if it's good fuel pressure, i'll just start with the coil and move on from there.

95greenZ
03-14-2009, 12:32 AM
Was it doing this before the fuel pump change?

crows93z
03-14-2009, 12:49 AM
yup.

Spartan7
03-14-2009, 06:42 AM
I had a high RPM misfire right at 4500, and it was two things. First, my wires were arcing. Then I found that oil had soaked through the inside of the opti cap from a previously leaky WP seal. Put a FP gauge on there to rule out fuel, just throwing this out for your knowledge.

BLOWNDFIZ
03-14-2009, 07:59 AM
Had a similar problem on my 95. Ended up being an almost completely broken coil wire.

Good Luck!

crows93z
03-14-2009, 03:36 PM
well it doesn't even matter now. went to pop in a new fuel filter and the threaded end of the fuel line that goes into the filter was rusted into the filter and the line was brittle right near the threaded end, and it just broke when i attempted to take it off.

what can i do about the line? please don't tell me i have to buy an entire new fuel line...the only part that appears to be damaged was the part of the line directly past the fuel filter.

crows93z
03-14-2009, 08:01 PM
anybody? does anyone know if the line is plastic, rubber or metal? i don't want to hack up the line more to find out... i have a bunch of fittings with flared ends and threaded male ends to screw into the fuel filter... would this be dangerous though?

Fastbird
03-14-2009, 09:26 PM
I'd just replace the line assembly. IIRC it's only about $15 or so from GM.

crows93z
03-14-2009, 10:00 PM
do you know the part number? i looked all over gmpartsdirect and couldn't find it...

95greenZ
03-15-2009, 04:10 PM
I tried a little searching for ya and came across this.
http://www.z28.com/LyleA/93-02%20%20Camaro%20Parts%20Manual.pdf

Its like 128mb I haven't d/l yet myself but it might help you out, definitely bookmarking it though.

crows93z
03-15-2009, 05:41 PM
thanks dude.. i'm downloading it now... says it'll take an hour and 45 minutes lol. so much for having "high speed internet"....

crows93z
03-15-2009, 08:44 PM
yeah, i downloaded that parts manual.

i think what i need is PN 10295276. it's #15 on the list on here (the original part number had been updated from what is listed on here)... i can't find anything else that would be more fitting. it's under the category of fuel lines... since the line broke at the connector past the fuel filter, i should just get an entire fuel line?

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u50/ledzppn69/93fuellines.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u50/ledzppn69/93fuellines2.jpg

crows93z
03-19-2009, 12:01 AM
got the line from speedway for $6... popped it in with a new fuel filter along with the new coil wire, but it's still doing it. could the fact that my security light is on be affecting this?

i'm gonna check to see if the wires are arcing tomorrow night when it's dark out. it's just weird. holding it in first out of WOT to redline, it doesn't repeat any symptoms. it's only at WOT at redline... just sounds like someone's shooting an ak47 under my car or something when it's trying to shift. i'll also try to get a FP gauge on it tomorrow to rule out any other fuel problems. Anything else I should look at?

crows93z
03-19-2009, 03:17 PM
threw an ses code today for low map sensor voltage... i'll check the map sensor voltage later tonight... i have open lines from the egr valve, but i disconnected the egr solenoid, so that shouldn't matter as far as manifold pressure, right?

Ponch95
03-19-2009, 07:06 PM
Crow

JUST HAD the exact same problem but I was throwing the "Throttle Body Position Sensor" as well come to find out it was the PCM going bad and not delivering enough voltage. Check your grey wire on the MAP that will tell you.

crows93z
03-19-2009, 07:33 PM
thanks! will do.. my buddy's coming over with a voltmeter later, i heard anything between 0.5 and 4.5 is good, anything around that is bad map sensor?

Ponch95
03-19-2009, 09:16 PM
yep! anything less is bad also ensure you check both the MAP Sensor and the wiring

crows93z
03-19-2009, 09:33 PM
yes, i haven't taken it apart yet, but i'm just gonna guess that the seal on the MAP sensor going into the intake is broken or the hole is plugged. after some research, seems like my problems are typical of a bad seal on the MAP sensor. all the wiring looks good. i'll take it apart tomorrow.. maybe this has been the source of all my problems.

crows93z
03-20-2009, 01:30 PM
well, when i was trying to take off the map sensor, one of the bolt heads broke off, no surprise there. when i got it off, seal looked normal.. no tears or anything.. i don't know what the problem is. never got a chance to test the wiring with a voltmeter, but i have no idea why it would all of a sudden become faulty. now i can't even get the bolt here before this weekend (go back to school on sunday) to just drive it in its current state. yayyyyyy

ksmyss
03-20-2009, 01:46 PM
i got a bolt you can have if you replace it with another one when you get it.

crows93z
03-20-2009, 05:09 PM
they found a couple other bolts that worked just fine. i replaced the MAP sensor, the car ran fine... until i went to scan the codes again and cleared them to see if there would be any changes... and then it started driving like it did before i swapped out the MAP sensor... it also threw a code 13 before, which is for faulty o2 sensor wiring, so i'm gonna resolder the wiring on the o2 sensors. would bad o2 sensor wiring really cause horrible drivability? i also noticed when i was fiddling with crap that my cold air intake had popped off of the plate above the intake elbow and was just pointed at the fender... i wouldn't think this would affect anything, but..?

ksmyss
03-20-2009, 08:41 PM
a bad o2 will cause all kinds of problems. i wouldn't solder o2 wireing at all. it has a coating that has to get really hot before it will solder well. o2 extentions are cheap and should always be used.

crows93z
03-20-2009, 10:48 PM
a bad o2 will cause all kinds of problems. i wouldn't solder o2 wireing at all. it has a coating that has to get really hot before it will solder well. o2 extentions are cheap and should always be used.

i didn't know they made single wire o2 extensions... i guess i'll search around a bit. i resoldered the drivers side, and the problems are cleared on normal city driving for the most part, still present on WOT at 5000+ rpms... this is weird.

Ponch95
03-20-2009, 10:51 PM
a bad o2 will cause all kinds of problems. i wouldn't solder o2 wireing at all. it has a coating that has to get really hot before it will solder well. o2 extentions are cheap and should always be used.


Agreed! :shame: buy an extension and don't extend them yourself, trust us on this it will lead to all kinds of different problems. as for the broken bolt, go to Sears and get a bolt-removal drill bit and it will come right out.

crows93z
03-20-2009, 11:11 PM
Agreed! :shame: buy an extension and don't extend them yourself, trust us on this it will lead to all kinds of different problems. as for the broken bolt, go to Sears and get a bolt-removal drill bit and it will come right out.

they gave me some other bolts there that fit just fine. the first parts manager who actually used his head and realized that tons of other cars use MAP sensors and have the exact same bolts lol. most of them just read their computers and draw a blunt conclusion right away.

neverfaster
03-28-2009, 04:52 PM
my 95Z did this same thing but i unplugged my mass air and ran it that way and it totally changed how the car ran it runs like new agaiin its still unplugged to this day

crows93z
03-28-2009, 07:30 PM
my 95Z did this same thing but i unplugged my mass air and ran it that way and it totally changed how the car ran it runs like new agaiin its still unplugged to this day

i don't have an MAF.. thanks for trying to help though.

IronOutlaw
03-29-2009, 11:28 AM
Id also get some extensions if they make them, im not sure about single wires.
After I put my headers in I went through hell trying to figure out my miss at high RPMs. I just threw parts at it and then found out I needed o2 extensions. After that I still had a miss that developed at lower cruising rpms and found out it was 2 burned plug wires.
My money is on o2s not reading right.
Good luck, I know how bad it sucks.

crows93z
03-29-2009, 12:38 PM
well you see in my other thread i put new o2's in there with real extensions. same problems still. i've also replaced the MAP sensor (it was throwing a code for that as well), coil and coil wire. it's only happening when it's warmed up, which leads me to believe it might be something dumb like the coolant temperature sensor in the WP? i've also got a TPS sitting in a box in my garage, but i doubt that's the problem... all the parts i've replaced have been parts that would exhibit these symptoms. the car's running like crap and not throwing any codes. to be honest, i think i'm just going to stop wasting my time and money on parts and just take it to a good shop to get diagnosed.

IronOutlaw
03-29-2009, 02:10 PM
The air temperature would affect the car when its warm, but they are like 40 bucks and thats alot when you're diagnosing.
Have you checked every plug wire? That was the last thing I thought about on my car and two were burned. One was really close to the header and one was touching, but you couldnt see any burn marks on them.

crows93z
03-29-2009, 03:15 PM
yep... i replaced the tps... now it just sounds like it has a misfire at certain times. so next weekend i'm going to swap out plugs and wires... i'm ready for the PITA...

what plugs/wires should i go with? last time i changed them was when i put in the longtubes... which was about 40,000 miles ago... i put autolite plugs in and delco wires. what should i gap them at? what wires? I had considered OTVC setup, but i don't really like the look of wires all over my engine, although it seems like i'd have less chance of burning another wire. shit, i have a breadtie holding one of the wires away from the header, but it's still really close.. like a 1/4" away from the primary. over time, i guess this might have fried the wire...

IronOutlaw
03-29-2009, 04:01 PM
yep... i replaced the tps... now it just sounds like it has a misfire at certain times. so next weekend i'm going to swap out plugs and wires... i'm ready for the PITA...

what plugs/wires should i go with? last time i changed them was when i put in the longtubes... which was about 40,000 miles ago... i put autolite plugs in and delco wires. what should i gap them at? what wires? I had considered OTVC setup, but i don't really like the look of wires all over my engine, although it seems like i'd have less chance of burning another wire. shit, i have a breadtie holding one of the wires away from the header, but it's still really close.. like a 1/4" away from the primary. over time, i guess this might have fried the wire...

Hell, Id just change that one and see if that fixes it.
I went with oreilly brand wires for 28 bucks and they did fine. :D I just replaced the two burned ones and was too lazy to replace the others.
I like msd stuff though, personally, but any of the name brands should be fine. I used the tr-55s on the firebird and they were pre-gapped. I just made sure they were the same and kept them there. I think it was .050 or .045 I cant remember.