View Full Version : Problems From Last Year......
Ninety5PoloZ
03-09-2009, 10:21 PM
Well I have put it off for long enough and its starting to get nice out and about time to get the car back out, but I have a couple problems
First off after the car is warmed up it has problems restarting. I changed the coolant temp sensor, but that didn't change anything. It acts like its flooded and I have to hold the gas pedal on the floor to get it to fire back up. I almost think that the injectors are leaking down, but it will do it right away of within an hour. So if I stop and fill it up with gas its hard to restart. I'll do a test and see if its loosing pressure and then if it is try to find where its leaking.
Second problem and it has only happened a handful of times is that the car seems to loose idle ocasionally. It seems like it does it under firm braking most of the time, but sometimes just an easy first gear takeoff then push the clutch back in again it will idle down to 300 rpms or so then slowly come back up to about 900 rpms
Kind of hard to explain the 2nd senerio, but if you need more info let me know.
Thanks in advance guys
IronOutlaw
03-09-2009, 10:26 PM
Are you sure its flooded and isnt getting starved for fuel. If you dont have a gauge you cuold pull a plug out when it wont start and see if it has gas all over it.
Sounds like your on the right track though, put a fuel pressure gauge on it.
Ninety5PoloZ
03-09-2009, 10:49 PM
Well I checked the fuel pressure earlier in the spring for a different problem and everything was fine. It has a new fuel filter, no lines are kinked and I can hear the fuel pump just fine when the key is cycled. Its just kind of strange, my buddies formula with a 396 has a similar starting issue after its warm and he said it was probably a coolant temp sensor or something along those lines, but I'm not sure.
BTW if it helps heres a list of all of the mods done to my car........
SRP Forged Pistons, Studded Main 355, Stock Crank & Rods W/ARP Bolts, CC306, Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRs, Cloyes DR, Melling 10% HV Oil Pump, Moroso 7 QT Oil Pan, LE3 Heads, BBK 58mm TB, Ported Intake, Holley 36# Injectors, CSR EWP, Hooker LTs, Custom X-Pipe & 2OTL True Duals W/Magnaflow Muffler, Spec Stage 3, Pro 5.0, 4.10s, ST 1.7" Drop Springs, Full UMI Rear Suspension, Ion Tune
96LT1355Z28
03-10-2009, 10:29 PM
It sounds like maybe a FPR is your first issue. As said put a gauge on it and see. Make sure you have a gauge on it when the problem is occuring. The second issue sounds like a sticking IAC. My .02!
warnerTA
03-10-2009, 11:51 PM
could be optispark.. the second situation you explained.. it sound just like mine did when the opti was going bad
Ninety5PoloZ
03-11-2009, 12:47 AM
could be optispark.. the second situation you explained.. it sound just like mine did when the opti was going bad
Well I hope not, its only got about 3K miles on it, but it has a lifetime warranty. But my car would be down for a couple weeks sending it back and getting the new one. I don't have a miss or anything else, so I hope its not the opti
BLOWNDFIZ
03-11-2009, 07:40 AM
Like everyone else mentioned check the FP again just to make sure. Then you mentioned pushing the gas pedal to the floor to get it to start....fuel injected cars don't need any input from the gas pedal on starting. I know some people with Fuel Injected cars that still "pump" the gas pedal like it does something:doh:. I hope you are not one of those peeps...Try leaving your foot off the pedal altogether and let the IAC to the work of getting air in.
Ninety5PoloZ
03-11-2009, 01:08 PM
Like everyone else mentioned check the FP again just to make sure. Then you mentioned pushing the gas pedal to the floor to get it to start....fuel injected cars don't need any input from the gas pedal on starting. I know some people with Fuel Injected cars that still "pump" the gas pedal like it does something:doh:. I hope you are not one of those peeps...Try leaving your foot off the pedal altogether and let the IAC to the work of getting air in.
Yes but do you also realize that if a fuel injected car becomes flooded if you floor it on startup it will cutout the injectors to clear the motor
When my car is cold it will basically key drop (fire on the first roll over) but after its warm it will crank and crank and crank until you floor it and then it will fire up and run normal.
BLOWNDFIZ
03-11-2009, 02:03 PM
Yes but do you also realize that if a fuel injected car becomes flooded if you floor it on startup it will cutout the injectors to clear the motor
When my car is cold it will basically key drop (fire on the first roll over) but after its warm it will crank and crank and crank until you floor it and then it will fire up and run normal.
Yes, I guess after I reread your post it said you hold it on the floor. My bad for reading too fast.
I guess my next step after verifying FP would be to pull the injectors and see how they look. Also, are you running a stock style fuel pump? The reason I ask is I had similar problems when my car was first completed. I am using an A1000 pump and initially the Aeromotive LT1 fuel system. The A1000 pulling the fuel out of the tank caused severe cavitation and my problem ended up being not getting fuel to the rails. I redid the entire tank/lines to the pump and all has been well since.
Ninety5PoloZ
03-12-2009, 01:03 PM
Yes, I guess after I reread your post it said you hold it on the floor. My bad for reading too fast.
I guess my next step after verifying FP would be to pull the injectors and see how they look. Also, are you running a stock style fuel pump? The reason I ask is I had similar problems when my car was first completed. I am using an A1000 pump and initially the Aeromotive LT1 fuel system. The A1000 pulling the fuel out of the tank caused severe cavitation and my problem ended up being not getting fuel to the rails. I redid the entire tank/lines to the pump and all has been well since.
Sorry if I seemed harsh in my response, wasn't meant like that.
And I'm still on the stock pump as far as I know. And the injectors were new about 8K miles ago when the motor was completed. I have a good deal on a T Rex pump if I remember right thats complete for $100 thats only got 100 miles on it because the guy went to a daul in tank setup.
But this next winter I want to go through the entire fuel line setup and do braided line throughout because my car is a northern car and the lines underneith are getting a little rusty.
I'm probably going to go and buy the pump from my buddy just to have it. The temp decided to go sunny and cold again, so no getting the car out for a while but I'm going to try to check some things out
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