m6 wont shift

[TechF1end]

one day m6 stopped going into gear so we pulled the trans out and slave was weak and pedal was soft, put new slave in pedal feels normal now but its not shifting still. any ideas?

[FORMULA94]

bad syncros be my guess. if it won't go in any gear. otherwise, id say ya got a bigger problem.

[TechF1end]

yea not syncros. its a clutch issue. put clutch in and start car and car takes off. does not want to shift into any gear without problems while driving

[Z28pr0jekt]

when you say with problems what do you mean?... grinding? kicking you out of gear? what gears?

How is the pedal feel? Are you sure you have the fork on the throwout bearing correctly? how old is the clutch/pressure plate

[TechF1end]

stock everything, was running normal then out of no where it stopped going into gears when sitting still or driving. no kicking, grinding or anything. no idea how old clutch is.

[Bowtie4Life]

yea not syncros. its a clutch issue. put clutch in and start car and car takes off. does not want to shift into any gear without problems while driving

deffinatly a clutch issue, sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging. OH, or, this happened on my sonoma, it could be the pilot bearing, mine failed and it was like the clutch wasn't disengaging when it actually was, but the bearing came apart and didn't let the nose of the input shaft spin, so you might want to check that too.

[Fastbird]

Could be the clutch master cylinder.....or maybe the fork popped off the throwout bearing?

[TechF1end]

turns out it was the springs in the clutch, 2 of them broke and were laying in the bottom of the bell housing. so thats fixed but only reverse is hard to shift into now. also is there any way on bleeding air out of master/slave cylinder

[97LT1]

turns out it was the springs in the clutch, 2 of them broke and were laying in the bottom of the bell housing. so thats fixed but only reverse is hard to shift into now. also is there any way on bleeding air out of master/slave cylinder

there is a way to bleed it, but cannot remember off hand since it has been so long. I know you have to point the slave plunger up and pump it manually. There is not an actual valve for bleeding.

[Green96Z]

turns out it was the springs in the clutch, 2 of them broke and were laying in the bottom of the bell housing. so thats fixed but only reverse is hard to shift into now. also is there any way on bleeding air out of master/slave cylinder

Same thing happened to mine. Broke a hub spring and it wouldn't go into any gears without grinding.

To bleed the clutch (GM recommended procedure):

Clean clutch master cylinder cap area so no dirt can enter the system.

Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm.

If you are leaving the master cylinder in the car, use a wire or something hung from the LH hood strut bracket down toward the slave cylinder.

Remove the slave cylinder and use the wire you hung to support it.

Go back up top and get hold of the slave cylinder. Press the pushrod in ~20mm (0.787in) and hold it. Keep slave cylinder lower than the master cylinder.

Install diaphragm and reservior cap while holding the pushrod in.

Release pushrod and hold slave cylinder vertically with the pushrod end facing down.

Press pushrod in using short 10mm (0.390in) strokes.

Check the master cylinder for air bubbles and continue until there are none.

Reconnect slave and check reservoir for proper fluid level.

[KissMyWhtSS]

Sounds like I was too late for this one. Collapsed clutch spring.

[TechF1end]

Same thing happened to mine. Broke a hub spring and it wouldn't go into any gears without grinding.

To bleed the clutch (GM recommended procedure):

Clean clutch master cylinder cap area so no dirt can enter the system.

Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm.

If you are leaving the master cylinder in the car, use a wire or something hung from the LH hood strut bracket down toward the slave cylinder.

Remove the slave cylinder and use the wire you hung to support it.

Go back up top and get hold of the slave cylinder. Press the pushrod in ~20mm (0.787in) and hold it. Keep slave cylinder lower than the master cylinder.

Install diaphragm and reservior cap while holding the pushrod in.

Release pushrod and hold slave cylinder vertically with the pushrod end facing down.

Press pushrod in using short 10mm (0.390in) strokes.

Check the master cylinder for air bubbles and continue until there are none.

Reconnect slave and check reservoir for proper fluid level.

sweet thanks for the info i had been looking for it for awhile

[RAVEN97]

Same thing happened to mine. Broke a hub spring and it wouldn't go into any gears without grinding.

To bleed the clutch (GM recommended procedure):

Clean clutch master cylinder cap area so no dirt can enter the system.

Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm.

If you are leaving the master cylinder in the car, use a wire or something hung from the LH hood strut bracket down toward the slave cylinder.

Remove the slave cylinder and use the wire you hung to support it.

Go back up top and get hold of the slave cylinder. Press the pushrod in ~20mm (0.787in) and hold it. Keep slave cylinder lower than the master cylinder.

Install diaphragm and reservior cap while holding the pushrod in.

Release pushrod and hold slave cylinder vertically with the pushrod end facing down.

Press pushrod in using short 10mm (0.390in) strokes.

Check the master cylinder for air bubbles and continue until there are none.

Reconnect slave and check reservoir for proper fluid level.


If you must do this by yourself make sure the garage is quiet ie: no music fans ... that way you can hear all the air bubbles when you push in on the slave. ;)