The Resurrection: 94 Firebird Formula

[SSlowBoat]

After watching/loving this car for years, I decided to take a leap and make a deal with Injuneer on purchasing his pride and joy 1994 Firebird Formula. On Sunday, I met with him and set the deal in stone. This week I have not had much time to start digging into it, that will happen this weekend. So far the only thing I see is a little bit of rodent damage to a few wires under the hood (couple grounds, a white and a blue for the Motec pcm). I will put it up on the cribs so I can really go over it and also drain the fuel system. I will pull the rail too and send the injectors to a buddy in pa to have them flowed and cleaned. New Braille battery was ordered yesterday.

The primary plan is to get it running and get some new rubber on it, change all the fluids etc. After that cruise her a bit this summer and also definitely go to island to shake down on motor. I am not sure if spray will happen this year, it depends on the Motec. It is such a time capsule and well put together car though, honestly nicest 4th gen we have ever had around for us (no offense Ltconvert, but this is cleaner LOL).

[JOATMON]

Subscribed.

[95 blackbird]

Congrats on an awesome and beautiful car. Couldn't have gone to a better home. A true LTX guy. No LS in this cars future.

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[Fastbird]

Hell. Yes.

I'm glad this car went to someone who knows what it is and it's mythological status within the community. It's kind of cool seeing that Fernco coupler on the TB.........because that's exactly how I ended up with a fernco coupler my old car that had the Ram Air airbox (my black one, that goes WAY back, lol).

[adam85]

You stepped up and saved a legend. It has to be a great feeling knowing it’s yours! Keep us updated!

[SSlowBoat]

Hell. Yes.

I'm glad this car went to someone who knows what it is and it's mythological status within the community. It's kind of cool seeing that Fernco coupler on the TB.........because that's exactly how I ended up with a fernco coupler my old car that had the Ram Air airbox (my black one, that goes WAY back, lol).I remember with my first 94 Camaro just googling things about them/LT1's and stumbling on CZ28, like every thread i opened about anything there was Injuneer posting something technical and knowledgeable. ever since then ive wanted this car and have respected any time he posts.

between this car, kyle mackenzies silver formula, and Badhawk formula, i had to eventually have a Formula on drag wheels lol

selling 2 3rd gens hopefully today, will start digging in this afternoon, updates to commence

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[Injuneer]

VERY glad you stepped up and bought the Formula.

I'm definitely going to follow this. Do not hesitate to ask any questions or look for any help I can give you. I'm working on pulling together a list of any items you might be interested in. At this point I need to clear out the garage (you saw the mess!).

Now I need to figure out how to alter my "signature".

[SSlowBoat]

VERY glad you stepped up and bought the Formula.

I'm definitely going to follow this. Do not hesitate to ask any questions or look for any help I can give you. I'm working on pulling together a list of any items you might be interested in. At this point I need to clear out the garage (you saw the mess!).

Now I need to figure out how to alter my "signature".thank you fred, i will be down next weekend. We started digging into her today. the mouse had a little fun behind the pcm/motec. fixed 4 wires that were clean chewed through, taped up a few that were just a little chaffed.

question, red switch by the obd port under dash, what was that for?

Gonna be putting it in the air shortly and draining the tankhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220327/62bd1586a25e4e87d935fd0df075b09c.jpg

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[Injuneer]

I had a Scanmaster permanently wired to the DLC data wire. The micro-switch disconnected the Scanmaster signal wire so it wouldn’t interfere with any device connected to the DLC like a programmer or a scanner.

I kept the stock PCM fed with things like coolant temp and inlet air temp, so the Scanmaster could show the readings. If you look at the back of the airbox, there are two IAT sensors, one for the MoTeC and one for the stock PCM. For coolant temp to the PCM, there is a temp sensor in the brass tee that was added to the steam pipe return line, in front of the alternator.

[SSlowBoat]

I had a Scanmaster permanently wired to the DLC data wire. The micro-switch disconnected the Scanmaster signal wire so it wouldn’t interfere with any device connected to the DLC like a programmer or a scanner.

I kept the stock PCM fed with things like coolant temp and inlet air temp, so the Scanmaster could show the readings. If you look at the back of the airbox, there are two IAT sensors, one for the MoTeC and one for the stock PCM. For coolant temp to the PCM, there is a temp sensor in the brass tee that was added to the steam pipe return line, in front of the alternator.got it thank you. draining fuel system now, not sure if c16, varnish, or what it is haha.

Also, are there any fuses somewhere other than the factory fuse boxes for the motec pcm or coil module? just want to double check everything before we get ready to start it next weekend

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[Injuneer]

To drain the tank, are you going to disconnect the -10AN line at the bottom/rear of the tank?

I have a spare replacement filter cartridge for the SX billet fuel filter. I'll put that aside for you. Also have solenoid repair parts for the NOS solenoids, replacement blow off valve and blowoff caps. Probably some other odds and ends in the tool box I took to the track. Also a large O-ring… I think that may be for the fuel filter.

The EVAP canister was deleted but the vent hose is still in the driver rear fender, behind the plastic liner. There is a small sock on it to keep critters out. You will smell fuel back there, specially with C16 (or whatever VP fuels replaced it with). I have the canister if you want it. Have a spare fuel pump support frame, missing the level sensor. Back in 2000 they didn't sell the level sensor separate, so we had to buy a whole new sending unit to get one.

When you get to the Weldon fuel pressure regulator, it is actually hanging under the cowl with nylon ties. Something I wanted to “mount” somehow but never did. When Second Street installed the fuel system, it wasn’t even tied, just laying back there in the rat's nest of wires and hoses, so I tied it up (“temporarily”). Note that there is no vacuum compensation line, and the tune reflects that.

If you ever want to meet 1/2-way, rather than driving all the way to East Brunswick, we could meet somewhere on Rt. 22, maybe Whitehouse Station area. I really need an excuse to get out and drive. Barbara needs to get out of the house more too.

[Injuneer]

Don't know the answer on the MoTeC power supply. I can ask Bill at (used to be) Second Street. And give him a heads up that you now own the car and may need to contact him from time to time.

I wish I knew more info about the details of some of the work they did in 2000. I had planned to spend some hands-on time with them. I had bought a used block, ordered the LT4 heads/intake from Pete Incaudo at CNC Heads, throttle body, had the hand-me-down AS&M headers and a McLeod Street Twin from George Baxter. All got sent to Second Street and they did their thing.

But my job got in the way, and I found myself 6,000 miles away, working in northern Italy. A major disappointment. There are some things I would have done different, like go for a bigger cam. But communication was difficult, and they had to keep the work going. So they made some choices that weren’t exactly what I wanted. But they did an amazing job, all things considered.

[SSlowBoat]

To drain the tank, are you going to disconnect the -10AN line at the bottom/rear of the tank?

I have a spare replacement filter cartridge for the SX billet fuel filter. I'll put that aside for you. Also have solenoid repair parts for the NOS solenoids, replacement blow off valve and blowoff caps. Probably some other odds and ends in the tool box I took to the track. Also a large O-ring… I think that may be for the fuel filter.

The EVAP canister was deleted but the vent hose is still in the driver rear fender, behind the plastic liner. There is a small sock on it to keep critters out. You will smell fuel back there, specially with C16 (or whatever VP fuels replaced it with). I have the canister if you want it. Have a spare fuel pump support frame, missing the level sensor. Back in 2000 they didn't sell the level sensor separate, so we had to buy a whole new sending unit to get one.

When you get to the Weldon fuel pressure regulator, it is actually hanging under the cowl with nylon ties. Something I wanted to “mount” somehow but never did. When Second Street installed the fuel system, it wasn’t even tied, just laying back there in the rat's nest of wires and hoses, so I tied it up (“temporarily”). Note that there is no vacuum compensation line, and the tune reflects that.

If you ever want to meet 1/2-way, rather than driving all the way to East Brunswick, we could meet somewhere on Rt. 22, maybe Whitehouse Station area. I really need an excuse to get out and drive. Barbara needs to get out of the house more too.Hands are covered in old fuel and cobwebs, will update in a little bit, thank you Fred!

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[SSlowBoat]

To drain the tank, are you going to disconnect the -10AN line at the bottom/rear of the tank?

I have a spare replacement filter cartridge for the SX billet fuel filter. I'll put that aside for you. Also have solenoid repair parts for the NOS solenoids, replacement blow off valve and blowoff caps. Probably some other odds and ends in the tool box I took to the track. Also a large O-ring… I think that may be for the fuel filter.

The EVAP canister was deleted but the vent hose is still in the driver rear fender, behind the plastic liner. There is a small sock on it to keep critters out. You will smell fuel back there, specially with C16 (or whatever VP fuels replaced it with). I have the canister if you want it. Have a spare fuel pump support frame, missing the level sensor. Back in 2000 they didn't sell the level sensor separate, so we had to buy a whole new sending unit to get one.

When you get to the Weldon fuel pressure regulator, it is actually hanging under the cowl with nylon ties. Something I wanted to “mount” somehow but never did. When Second Street installed the fuel system, it wasn’t even tied, just laying back there in the rat's nest of wires and hoses, so I tied it up (“temporarily”). Note that there is no vacuum compensation line, and the tune reflects that.

If you ever want to meet 1/2-way, rather than driving all the way to East Brunswick, we could meet somewhere on Rt. 22, maybe Whitehouse Station area. I really need an excuse to get out and drive. Barbara needs to get out of the house more too.

thats what i did, luckily it only had maybe 2 gallons in it. i also blew the lines out front to back. the plan is to dump fresh in it and then idle it a bit then change the fuel filter, so that would be really helpful if i can grab that spare cartridge.

i will shoot you an email, we can set something up, it would be much appreciated if you could meet anywhere on 22 (whitehouse/readington/branchburg etc). i have no problem coming down to you either, without a trailer its a nice ride haha.

i have to order a new rad cap, the bottom part that moves when pressurized is all disintegrated and broke off from the main cap when i removed it. other than that and the mouse damage by the motec (he didnt chew a single factory wire, only motec pcm and ignition box wires) everything looks ok so far. i have new plugs on the way too, the 104's that are in there are pretty crudded up from sitting. i also am ordering an oil filter, with an oil change did you run a zinc additive since its solid roller?

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[SSlowBoat]

Don't know the answer on the MoTeC power supply. I can ask Bill at (used to be) Second Street. And give him a heads up that you now own the car and may need to contact him from time to time.

I wish I knew more info about the details of some of the work they did in 2000. I had planned to spend some hands-on time with them. I had bought a used block, ordered the LT4 heads/intake from Pete Incaudo at CNC Heads, throttle body, had the hand-me-down AS&M headers and a McLeod Street Twin from George Baxter. All got sent to Second Street and they did their thing.

But my job got in the way, and I found myself 6,000 miles away, working in northern Italy. A major disappointment. There are some things I would have done different, like go for a bigger cam. But communication was difficult, and they had to keep the work going. So they made some choices that weren’t exactly what I wanted. But they did an amazing job, all things considered.

eventually i want to go to a larger cam, always wanted a nasty solid roller car with a big split/low lsa. i eventually will probably update the motec to a holley since i dont have to control a trans, and go to a wet nitrous setup. but for now i just want to get it running and cruising on motor the way it sits.

i got rid of the 2 third gen project cars this weekend, and will most likely be parting the 95 firebird out too so this car is all the focus.

I LOVE how you set up the interior. how i always wanted a bird to be. right now i am removing the 5 point harness from my 95 to put in here since its new and meets sfi. looking to sell or trade my kirkey seat/racecraft bracket setup for a corbeau to match and slap it in the passenger side. my grandmother already wants to go for a ride with the t-tops off hahhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220327/ac0d378a8d9b7ce7382deef5d585eb7b.jpg

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[shownomercy]

Holley does a good job handling large dry shots

[SSlowBoat]

Holley does a good job handling large dry shotsthat could be taken off the rails so quick....lmao

ordered some small parts. tires seem to be fun to come by. Mickey has the ET Street SS in a 275/60/15 but it says max rim width 9.5" and these are 10" wide, think ill be ok? I may just keep the drag pack on all the time, so want to go radial.

eventually will pick up some billet specialties street lites, always loved those wheels on a LT1 Formula, one day.

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[95 blackbird]

I ran that size tire on my 10 inch wide weld rts's.
You'll be fine.

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[harner]

I remember with my first 94 Camaro just googling things about them/LT1's and stumbling on CZ28, like every thread i opened about anything there was Injuneer posting something technical and knowledgeable. ever since then ive wanted this car and have respected any time he posts.

I'm pretty sure that's how we ALL know Fred. Congrats, the car went to a good home. I'm sure it was bittersweet for the legend himself.

[Injuneer]

The 28X10.5-15W ET Drags on there we’re overkill, but price was right - $0 George Baxter hand-me-downs. They have tubes. Sec Street guys always told me they were costing me 30-40 HP at the rear wheels. Also note the rim screws. Not recommended for radials.

[SSlowBoat]

The 28X10.5-15W ET Drags on there we’re overkill, but price was right - $0 George Baxter hand-me-downs. They have tubes. Sec Street guys always told me they were costing me 30-40 HP at the rear wheels. Also note the rim screws. Not recommended for radials.I am going to do away with the rim screws and go radial. They should seal with cut screws and silicone.

I think im going with a 275/60/15 et street SS tire. its a little shorter. With the 4.11 gear i dont want to go to a 26" tire and spin too much

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[Injuneer]

1st gear in the TH400 is 2.48 compared to the 3.06 in a 700/4L60, so the 2.48 x 4.11 is close to a 3.06 x 3.23. Agree w/ the 28” tire. It was very easy to blow away the 315/35-17 (25.7”) BFG Drag Radials on the street.

[SSlowBoat]

Good morning! We are Live! Injuneer


https://youtu.be/wwRr-vpsoJE

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[Injuneer]

Music to my ears....... and a tear in my eye

[SSlowBoat]

Music to my ears....... and a tear in my eyeMore Music for your ears!! THANK YOU SIR!


https://youtu.be/mUj56QMmCiI


https://youtu.be/sEdoF4PtL9I

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[SSlowBoat]

she looks probably the rattiest she ever will, but i put the radials on from the other car. Ive gone 10.78 at 126 in Ltconvert on the ss wheels with the 275/40/17 et street r, so i think this will help the car on motor for now being a 26" tall tire.

i want to put passes on it and see how it does hopefully next weekend. Also changed the fuel filter which was an interesting shade of brown inside. oddly enough, the harder i hit it, the more it cleans up and runs better [emoji2369]

i took the racequip harness from the 95 and put it in. i may have to go kirkey since i cannot brace the back of the seat to the bar easilyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220404/6bd06251dd20e1767631e9c7462b9ffd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220404/bacad2365c5033a1cf10550e74eae9a2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220404/0915e0a5e85b44bd19d59cf6e3d245aa.jpg

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[Injuneer]

When the roll bar was installed the stock seat was still there. The guy who built the bar put a tube “socket” under the harness tab, and fabricated a tube with a flat bearing plate to rest against the stock seat back. I think it’s still in the car. I never got around to having it attached to the Corbeau seat, and with the seat having a slider it would have been difficult. I don't believe NHRA allows a pinned brace that can be removable to allow the seat to slide. Has to be solid. I could be wrong. E’town tech never questioned much of anything except the stud length on the front wheels, and I corrected that. I don't think they took the car seriously….. :D

[SSlowBoat]

When the roll bar was installed the stock seat was still there. The guy who built the bar put a tube “socket” under the harness tab, and fabricated a tube with a flat bearing plate to rest against the stock seat back. I think it’s still in the car. I never got around to having it attached to the Corbeau seat, and with the seat having a slider it would have been difficult. I don't believe NHRA allows a pinned brace that can be removable to allow the seat to slide. Has to be solid. I could be wrong. E’town tech never questioned much of anything except the stud length on the front wheels, and I corrected that. I don't think they took the car seriously….. :Did have to make a much longer about 5" piece of tube and bolt it because i sit alot closer to the wheel lol. i have a clamp-on one for the kirkey but i would have to cut the current tube socket out of the way.

maybe island wont take me seriously either, that would be good. how fast do we think this car is on motor?

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[Injuneer]

Best all motor was 11.5 @ 118. Average was more like 11.6 @ 115.

[SSlowBoat]

Best all motor was 11.5 @ 118. Average was more like 11.6 @ 115.

that should keep them from looking too close, hopefully lol

[SSlowBoat]

it bugged me all day. so yeah, modified, per nhra its braced and bolted to the barhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220405/06890b767280bd9c6285a80114ca7211.jpg

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[Injuneer]

Watch the distance between the top of the bar and back of your helmet. I drove with the seat partly forward, but that put my helmet more than 6” in front of the bar. For tech I would slide the seat all the way back to meet the spec. That made fastening the seat back brace an issue. I wanted to use a T-pin, like the one on the swing out, but I don’t think that is acceptable. The spec says “one bolt in the rear into crossbar”.

[shownomercy]

Those things have always scared me on non full metal seats, one bad rear end on the street and your spine meets that.

[SSlowBoat]

Those things have always scared me on non full metal seats, one bad rear end on the street and your spine meets that.im already thinking of putting the kirkey/racecraft setup in this morning, after finishing this last night lmao. i would remove it for street driving.

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[SSlowBoat]

Watch the distance between the top of the bar and back of your helmet. I drove with the seat partly forward, but that put my helmet more than 6” in front of the bar. For tech I would slide the seat all the way back to meet the spec. That made fastening the seat back brace an issue. I wanted to use a T-pin, like the one on the swing out, but I don’t think that is acceptable. The spec says “one bolt in the rear into crossbar”.The thing im banking on is the seat is in the same exact position as the kirkey was, and they were ok with it. i will have to get the door bar changed, because technically it is supposed to intersect between my elbow and shoulder, but because im short, even a standard door bar wolfe (not low slung) was too low for me and they mentioned that with both my other car and osies car

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[SSlowBoat]

partially kirkey'dhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220406/8c2c5026be000db2d3effb6dcc2b80fa.jpg

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[SSlowBoat]

When you scramble after working all day saturday to go to a track, any friggin track, and they all cancel test n tune or reschedule other events for tomorrow, AFTER you load the car.



DAMNIThttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220410/f221625a89f95a799ea8c1f8b7cbad30.jpg

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[Injuneer]

You did take the foam plug out of the hood scoop……… didn’t you?

[SSlowBoat]

You did take the foam plug out of the hood scoop……… didn’t you?yessir. made a new one lol, it was a bit, crunchy

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[SSlowBoat]

You did take the foam plug out of the hood scoop……… didn’t you?waxxed it last night as well

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[95 blackbird]

Beautiful, love that color

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[harner]

Aside from those hideous wagon wheels, it looks great! :D

[SSlowBoat]

for all the wagon wheel haters40231

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[SSlowBoat]

12.2 at 112 on motor Injuneer

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[Injuneer]

Ugggh. Never ran a 12 on motor. Maybe there's another mouse colony holed up somewhere in there.

[SSlowBoat]

Ugggh. Never ran a 12 on motor. Maybe there's another mouse colony holed up somewhere in there.12.2 every pass, same mph every pass, car feels strong, but not sure whats up

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[Injuneer]

What kind of 60-foots? That converter is not friendly without the big hit of nitrous. But it still sounds like something is off.

[SSlowBoat]

What kind of 60-foots? That converter is not friendly without the big hit of nitrous. But it still sounds like something is off.1.71-1.78, car wasnt spinning, didnt matter if i was footbraking it to 3400/2500 or leaving off idle. off idle was the best 60ft at 1.71. last pass she was blowing some black smoke like it was really rich in 3rd. went 12.2 again and put it on the trailer.

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[SSlowBoat]

i am curious as to which tune is in here right now, considering it smelled like race gas when i drained the fuel system. think it would be slow on motor if it has the 300 tune in it?


https://youtu.be/0S4mDfrrnf8

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[Injuneer]

Should be the NA tune. The last time I took it to Second St they were supposed to give it a good once over, adjust the valves, etc, and load the N2O tune. Got to the track and the nitrous wouldn’t activate. Turned out they left the NA tune in it.

To me the NA launch was always soft. But it generally pulled low 1.6 60’s even feeling soft. The only time anyone ever videoed it, I gave a friend my camera. Lined up against an LT1 Corvette. He pulled me out of the hole but it was easy to run him down. Couldn’t share the video because on the video, as I left my buddy yelled “launched like a pig” and I was too embarrassed to show the video to anyone.

[harner]

SSlowBoat did you install the driver mod?

:) - Lots of factors as to why it didn't get into the 11s, but don't sweat it. Just get "two of the big ones" and send it!

[SSlowBoat]

so pulled the nitrous jets just to see, since bill of second street asked too, and theres a .055 and a .053, roughly calculates to a 260hp shot. i may go down to a 200 for now, depending on what he says, and if he can tune it all na/nitrous on 1 tune

I am ordering new plug wires and having the injectors checked again, i think one may still be sticky. then i am setting up when to drop the car off to second street to have the tune file updated to version 6.2 since the motec version i have says it has to be (wont let me log or open it, but i can see the pcm though, thanks again harner )

hopefully when all is said and done we are back to normal on motor and in the 10's on the sauce

oh yeah, picked up some rear 15x10 streetlites, gotta get some new tires though, blew the hoosier qtp's off of them yesterday, sadly no vid

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[Injuneer]

The numbers I've quoted in the past were based on dyno results.

As-built, the NA engine made 490 HP on the engine dyno (Sunoco 94 octane), and 425 HP on the chassis dyno. 13.27% loss thru the T56 w/ 3.73 gears

Before running the N2O tune, they baselined the NA engine on C16. That bumped the NA engine dyno to 496 HP, attributed to the higher specific energy content of the C16 - more #/gallon. more BTU/#. That way they could see what the N2O added, and not include what the C16 added.

With both stages of the original setup, it made 762.5 HP on the engine dyno, 672 on the chassis dyno. 11.87% loss thru the T56.

That indicates the N2O was a 266 shot.

After swapping in the TH400 and the 4.11 gears, we ran the chassis dyno again. The loss in the TH400 was huge.

The N2O rwHP dropped to 593 HP, a 22.23% loss thru the TH400 w/ 4.11 gears

Then they switched to the single, larger shot, using both the fan jet nozzles.

rwHP increased to 620 HP. Using the same 22.23% loss, that indicated we were now at 797.2 HP at the flywheel, a gain of 34.7 HP.

[SSlowBoat]

The numbers I've quoted in the past were based on dyno results.

As-built, the NA engine made 490 HP on the engine dyno (Sunoco 94 octane), and 425 HP on the chassis dyno. 13.27% loss thru the T56 w/ 3.73 gears

Before running the N2O tune, they baselined the NA engine on C16. That bumped the NA engine dyno to 496 HP, attributed to the higher specific energy content of the C16 - more #/gallon. more BTU/#. That way they could see what the N2O added, and not include what the C16 added.

With both stages of the original setup, it made 762.5 HP on the engine dyno, 672 on the chassis dyno. 11.87% loss thru the T56.

That indicates the N2O was a 266 shot.

After swapping in the TH400 and the 4.11 gears, we ran the chassis dyno again. The loss in the TH400 was huge.

The N2O rwHP dropped to 593 HP, a 22.23% loss thru the TH400 w/ 4.11 gears

Then they switched to the single, larger shot, using both the fan jet nozzles.

rwHP increased to 620 HP. Using the same 22.23% loss, that indicated we were now at 797.2 HP at the flywheel, a gain of 34.7 HP.

thank you Fred, that helps alot to understand the process. i found a dyno sheet in the files of the car making 381whp N/A from some point in its history. was wondering what the 593hp sheet was too. bill is confident we can get her running right, just hoping it doesnt cost too much

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[SSlowBoat]

Even with clogged injectors only going 12.2 on a 1.71 60ft, she hits that tire hard. Love how it just stands up. Injuneer the suspension looks and feels dialed in.

I sent the injectors to Josh Hamming to have them cleaned. Hopefully he can clean them, because they do not make them anymore. Fingers crossed when they come back we can get some hits on it and find our missing timehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220511/110b136d5a2bbd7a779286b7cc3dc2f7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220511/cb5614b75f34b74e9705233502da36ac.jpg

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[Injuneer]

Lookin’ good. Miss it.

Suspension by Steve Spohn….. all set up by Steve and his dad. They worked wonders with George Baxter's 30th, when the car was running low 8’s (not an LT1 at that point).

[SSlowBoat]

Just got the plug wires changed tonight, few had some mouse damage that was buried and couldnt be seen.

also picked up new/used rear rubber, got a deal on some ET Street SS radials in 275/50/15, these will go on the Street Lites so I dont have to change back wheels for this year atleast. When we get the juice working again we will go back to a 28", for now ill just use osies 28" racestars with et radial pro's if i need to. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220515/21e4959c3b03b5ddd8e35ba316087e70.jpg

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[SSlowBoat]

got the new shoes onhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220515/4f002d9b0e3ec807b613651cdaa862a1.jpg

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[JOATMON]

I can smell some low 11 sec passes coming.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

I can smell some low 11 sec passes coming.
NolanIll just be happy if it runs the same as it did when fred ran it on motor. 11.6-11.8 ill be content....for now

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[SSlowBoat]

I can smell some low 11 sec passes coming.
Nolani can smell having 7 good injectors and 1 bad one. now to find an injector they dont make anymore ugh

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[JOATMON]

i can smell having 7 good injectors and 1 bad one. now to find an injector they dont make anymore ugh

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What kind of injectors? Odd that they are obsolete?

[SSlowBoat]

What kind of injectors? Odd that they are obsolete?bosch 64lb/hr ev1 low impedance. looks like a pink top can replace it, one for a ski-doo

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[JOATMON]

Cool if you can buy one. I was just curious why they went obsolete. These folks might be able to help, they were real easy to work when I bought a new set of 42's. Price was very reasonable on mine. (Lucas paddle 42lb EV1)https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/collections

[SSlowBoat]

Cool if you can buy one. I was just curious why they went obsolete. These folks might be able to help, they were real easy to work when I bought a new set of 42's. Price was very reasonable on mine. (Lucas paddle 42lb EV1)https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/collectionsthey dont have low impedance in the size i need, just standard resistance

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[JOATMON]

FWIW I "jerry-rigged" a 12volt source with a push button to do this one time. I think this is a nice $50 kit to do the same. Seems to be a decent tool and you get the injector juice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vz3eXDzh7NU

[SSlowBoat]

FWIW I "jerry-rigged" a 12volt source with a push button to do this one time. I think this is a nice $50 kit to do the same. Seems to be a decent tool and you get the injector juice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vz3eXDzh7NUi sent them to someone with an actual setup. he still couldnt get 1 of them to work. is what it is

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[JOATMON]

https://www.google.com/search?q=0280150845%2C+270600017%2C+270600095+OEM&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

ONE FOR $20.00 OR EIGHT FOR 129.58 EBAY

Says those part numbers are 65lb ,2.8 ohm, EV1

[SSlowBoat]

https://www.google.com/search?q=0280150845%2C+270600017%2C+270600095+OEM&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

ONE FOR $20.00 OR EIGHT FOR 129.58 EBAY

Says those part numbers are 65lb ,2.8 ohm, EV1thats probably what im gonna grab...already found them but they are slightly different

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[JOATMON]

I kind of figured you had already googled them. I was curious about them being low impedance. I'm assuming they are required because of the nature of the drivers in the Motec ECM? Even at my age I'm always learning things.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

I kind of figured you had already googled them. I was curious about them being low impedance. I'm assuming they are required because of the nature of the drivers in the Motec ECM? Even at my age I'm always learning things.
NolanCorrect

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[Injuneer]

Seems like 20+ years ago, if you needed “big” injectors, they were all low impedance. I would call Bill. Those came out of Baxter's car, because they weren’t big enough for his next upgrade. I think I paid ~$400 for the used set back then. Running at 58 PSI they were at about max 77% DC in my setup. Injector design has progressed a lot from those days. I believe MoTeC claims a resolution of 1/10,000 second on pulse width. I would suspect the faster opening and closing of the “peak and hold” design takes advantage of that. The MoTeC allows tweeking the injectors by individual cylinder. If you want, I'll call Bill and see what he recommends.

[SSlowBoat]

Seems like 20+ years ago, if you needed “big” injectors, they were all low impedance. I would call Bill. Those came out of Baxter's car, because they weren’t big enough for his next upgrade. I think I paid ~$400 for the used set back then. Running at 58 PSI they were at about max 77% DC in my setup. Injector design has progressed a lot from those days. I believe MoTeC claims a resolution of 1/10,000 second on pulse width. I would suspect the faster opening and closing of the “peak and hold” design takes advantage of that. The MoTeC allows tweeking the injectors by individual cylinder. If you want, I'll call Bill and see what he recommends.Im gonna give him a call later today, thank you fred

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[SSlowBoat]

We got lucky boys! found a nib injector. these injectors are originally for a 1986 dodge daytona 2.4l sohc tbi injected. they will be installed saturday and we are hopefully back in businesshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220527/1f855e188245c77ea9c4fa1599107c20.jpg

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[shownomercy]

https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.ifunny.co%2Fimages%2F577d35cd 07ccb86b42f6b3130f63b5d9d809e3b9138b69903d6fe8fba7 049004_1.jpg&f=1&nofb=1

[SSlowBoat]

#forever 12's, but it looks fast.... [emoji3064]

12.2 again. definitely ran better, but with only picking up 1mph and a tenth quicker with fresh injectors and mew plug wires, i think thats all she has right now [emoji2369]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220606/8309d3d75c2e2295ede7e310b8f2bb64.jpg

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[harner]

Take it to Atco, it'll bang off an 11!

[shownomercy]

Take it to Atco, it'll bang off an 11!

https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fi.kym-cdn.com%2Fentries%2Ficons%2Foriginal%2F000%2F036%2 F994%2FHe%27s_Out_of_line_but_he%27s_right.jpg&f=1&nofb=1

[SSlowBoat]

shes legal on the street! took her out a little bit today, about 20 miles. whats normal trans temp for this thing Injuneer ? saw 210 on the gauhe after some stop and go. thinking about a bigger cooler already (verified fan was on and running)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220607/a58d7e57a698f670cc7a023d335fe869.jpg

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[Injuneer]

It always seemed that the coolant, oil, and trans temps were in the same range, typically 195-200°F. Keep in mind, it's got a non-locking converter.

[JOATMON]

yessir. made a new one lol, it was a bit, crunchy

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A shot in the dark on your ET issues..... Replace the air filter element.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

A shot in the dark on your ET issues..... Replace the air filter element.
Nolanremoved it too...no change

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[JOATMON]

I knew you had, but I thought it was worth saying just in case.......
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

It always seemed that the coolant, oil, and trans temps were in the same range, typically 195-200°F. Keep in mind, it's got a non-locking converter.coolant stays about 180, same with oil. maybe it was the stop and go. ive heard spragless converters get hot

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[Injuneer]

I turned the fan off once, forgot to turn it on. Temps were OK when the car was moving, but I had to wait in line to get into a car show, and the temp really took off. I should have mounted the switch in the passenger compartment, or at least had a pilot light for it. Woulda... shoulda.... coulda....

I remember reading Frank's write up on the best type of fluid cooler. He pretty much indicated fin/tube coolers didn't work at all. His preference was stacked plate type. He indicated that measuring the temp in and out showed the fin/tube cooler was actually heating up the fluid. I tried to wrap my engineering knowledge of thermodynamics and fluid dynamics around that, but couldn't. At least not unless the fan was pulling very hot air from somewhere. I was having good results with the fan assisted fin/tube cooler. Worth a read:

http://www.ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?25847-Transmission-cooler-tech

[SSlowBoat]

I turned the fan off once, forgot to turn it on. Temps were OK when the car was moving, but I had to wait in line to get into a car show, and the temp really took off. I should have mounted the switch in the passenger compartment, or at least had a pilot light for it. Woulda... shoulda.... coulda....

I remember reading Frank's write up on the best type of fluid cooler. He pretty much indicated fin/tube coolers didn't work at all. His preference was stacked plate type. He indicated that measuring the temp in and out showed the fin/tube cooler was actually heating up the fluid. I tried to wrap my engineering knowledge of thermodynamics and fluid dynamics around that, but couldn't. At least not unless the fan was pulling very hot air from somewhere. I was having good results with the fan assisted fin/tube cooler. Worth a read:

http://www.ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?25847-Transmission-cooler-tech

i remember frank going on and on about that lol. he yelled at us one time because we went stand alone cooler, and he said we should be using the factory rad cooler plus the aftermarket cooler. I didnt believe him until i tried it in the impala with the 3200 stall. it reduced the temps another 10 degrees.

I have a 40,000 tru cool stacked plate somewhere that i may throw on in series with the existing, put the stacked plate on the rad, and then run it to the perma-cool.

[SSlowBoat]

40275

40276

[JOATMON]

This got me wondering about the ET potential because my Camaro is about the same HP. I ran the numbers on a calculator for your Bird. 490HP less the 22.23% loss is 381WHP. The corresponds exactly to the chassis dyno sheet you found. The ET calculator at 3500 lbs and 381WHP says...........................12.2@117

[SSlowBoat]

This got me wondering about the ET potential because my Camaro is about the same HP. I ran the numbers on a calculator for your Bird. 490HP less the 22.23% loss is 381WHP. The corresponds exactly to the chassis dyno sheet you found. The ET calculator at 3500 lbs and 381WHP says...........................12.2@117mph is 4mph slower than your calc

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[Injuneer]

If I had a trans cooler in the radiator, I would have used it. But the Griffin radiator was ordered when the car still had the T56. My knowledge of automatic transmissions is somewhere between 0 and none. This is the first "performance" car I ever owned with an auto trans (albeit a conversion). I had to trust Second Street.

Answering your email, I never questioned the validity of the Lokar dipstick vs. the installed pan. But I never saw unusually high temps. Your comment of slip is interesting. I built an Excel spreadsheet that reflected both converter slip and tire growth. I had a bit of data on the 28" ET Drag slick growth by noting when the tire grew enough on the chassis dyno to hit the rear bumper cover (which was then cut back about a 1/2+ inch for clearance). If you are running radials, the growth is no longer an issue. But my calculation of the slip ranged from 4 to 5%. And after the first chassis dyno pulls with the TH400, Bill or Lon commented that the converter seemed very efficient, because of the low slip. I lost the spreadsheet in 2019 when my laptop cratered. It's in the outboard backup drive, but I've never taken the time to recover it.

Before/After:

[SSlowBoat]

If I had a trans cooler in the radiator, I would have used it. But the Griffin radiator was ordered when the car still had the T56. My knowledge of automatic transmissions is somewhere between 0 and none. This is the first "performance" car I ever owned with an auto trans (albeit a conversion). I had to trust Second Street.

Answering your email, I never questioned the validity of the Lokar dipstick vs. the installed pan. But I never saw unusually high temps. Your comment of slip is interesting. I built an Excel spreadsheet that reflected both converter slip and tire growth. I had a bit of data on the 28" ET Drag slick growth by noting when the tire grew enough on the chassis dyno to hit the rear bumper cover (which was then cut back about a 1/2+ inch for clearance). If you are running radials, the growth is no longer an issue. But my calculation of the slip ranged from 4 to 5%. And after the first chassis dyno pulls with the TH400, Bill or Lon commented that the converter seemed very efficient, because of the low slip. I lost the spreadsheet in 2019 when my laptop cratered. It's in the outboard backup drive, but I've never taken the time to recover it.

Before/After:

fti did say it could have to do with loading since its on a 26" tire as opposed to a 28" tire. maybe friday night ill throw the 28"s on and go to island again. I was also talking to other Turbo 400 LT1 racers about it and a few think its either converter or trans related, so we will dig in.

All growing pains. learning the car and what it likes/doesnt like etc. and my automatic trans knowledge is to the extent of what frank taught me, whenever i broke something LOL so i agree with you on that. power goes in magic happens and sometimes it works in an auto lol

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[SSlowBoat]

https://youtu.be/jkMipbp8WmU
Injuneer

[Injuneer]

I just wish it was running like I told you it would.

[SSlowBoat]

I just wish it was running like I told you it would.it will, we will get it there. ill just spray it lol

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[SSlowBoat]

The corbeau is now the passenger seat, along with the og harness. functions fine for the fiance.

This evening did a 25ish mile drive varying speed between 40-65mph and varying traffic conditions, od on and off. temp didnt exceed 210f, stayed around 195-200 ish even with a few little roll into it wots.

one thing i did notice is a shudder when you roll into it with the gear vendors od engaged. not sure if it is the gv or the converter, feels like as the converter loads up it shudders with a heavy heavy load.

i havent shifted the gv wot yet at the track, since i didnt hit the limiter and its a solid roller (all teh rpm!)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220611/6a81c257d763867cf917b4e4e8b25a2b.jpg

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[Injuneer]

Don't know that I ever experienced the “shudder”. Don't know that I ever tried what you did. It wasn’t driven a whole lot on the street.

A complete Gear Vendors setup comes with an electronic controller that disengages it at low RPM/MPH (or some combination thereof?). Bought the unit used from Baxter. He never used the electronic control, don't know if he even had it. We both installed it for the benefit of an extra gear on the freeway. He got rid of it to get weight down. His 97 SS tipped the scales at close to 4,000# with driver.

The fact they sold it with a controller suggested to me that maybe it wasn’t good to run it in a “lugging” situation. But it’s such a simple planetary gear set that I can¡t see it with issues. GV actually suggests it is useful to “split” gears though. It's popular in towing applications. So your 3-speed auto becomes a 5-speed + OD auto. 1 - 1/OD - 2 - 2/OD - 3 - 3/OD. Seemed unnecessary in my application.

I tested the engagement at the top end (nowhere near reaching redline) and it was seamless. Used it on the freeway, was seamless. I actually had delusions of needing it at the top end with the 4.11 gears. I calculated it was going to hit the 7,000 RPM nitrous cutoff at about 134/135 MPH (from memory - as noted, don't have access to the spreadsheet any more). I though it should top that (but not by much) with the full 300 shot.

[SSlowBoat]

Don't know that I ever experienced the “shudder”. Don't know that I ever tried what you did. It wasn’t driven a whole lot on the street.

A complete Gear Vendors setup comes with an electronic controller that disengages it at low RPM/MPH (or some combination thereof?). Bought the unit used from Baxter. He never used the electronic control, don't know if he even had it. We both installed it for the benefit of an extra gear on the freeway. He got rid of it to get weight down. His 97 SS tipped the scales at close to 4,000# with driver.

The fact they sold it with a controller suggested to me that maybe it wasn’t good to run it in a “lugging” situation. But it’s such a simple planetary gear set that I can¡t see it with issues. GV actually suggests it is useful to “split” gears though. It's popular in towing applications. So your 3-speed auto becomes a 5-speed + OD auto. 1 - 1/OD - 2 - 2/OD - 3 - 3/OD. Seemed unnecessary in my application.

I tested the engagement at the top end (nowhere near reaching redline) and it was seamless. Used it on the freeway, was seamless. I actually had delusions of needing it at the top end with the 4.11 gears. I calculated it was going to hit the 7,000 RPM nitrous cutoff at about 134/135 MPH (from memory - as noted, don't have access to the spreadsheet any more). I though it should top that (but not by much) with the full 300 shot.i think a wire is loose on it, sometimes after hitting a bump it feels funny engaging. i will check tomorrow. i gotta fix the speedo too. i wasnt lugging it persay, i was using it like i tune a 4l60e to go locked at 55mph-ish when just cruising, then rolling into it.

I am going to soften up the rear shocks as well, as a radial doesnt really squish too much, so i need a little more weight transfer.

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[SSlowBoat]

this was the situation for the last monthish since the trans temp fiasco when cruising more than a few miles. think i got it sorted now. removed the horizontal mounted permacool and installed a 30000 gvwr rv bar and plate like frank would tell me to use back in the day, mounted to rad directly so it always gets airflow. also installed my innovative wiring battery cables and a lt4 mini starter i had laying around as the cvr loosened and cocked sideways, causing it to chip teeth and grind. finally installed my burkhardt bumper support.

Took for a ride today, 33 miles, bunch of 3rd gear hits and a few dig hits, trans temp didnt exceed 180f. normally it wouldve been over 200 after a few 3rd gear hits while rolling, so i think we got it sorted

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[harner]

Are you using those filters as cabin filters? They're a little big but probably get the job done.

Nice job with the trans cooler upgrade!

[SSlowBoat]

Are you using those filters as cabin filters? They're a little big but probably get the job done.

Nice job with the trans cooler upgrade!lmao tapa wont let me delete it [emoji1787]

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[SSlowBoat]

Are you using those filters as cabin filters? They're a little big but probably get the job done.

Nice job with the trans cooler upgrade!fixed just for you harner [emoji8][emoji8]

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[SSlowBoat]

borrowed Ltconvert racestar 28" et radial pro rears and his oe fronts to get some street time, realized this car definitely needs a 28" on the rear, just the way it loads the converter over the 26" tire the car feels quicker, idn how to explain it.

washed it and cruised it last night about 35 miles no issuehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220918/5af949c6aac62d7b358d3bda30724edd.jpg

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[Brandon++S]

Nice!

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[95 blackbird]

Looks like it's about time to head back to the track

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[SSlowBoat]

well that was no fun. motec removal. going back to a obd1 pcm/converting the dry nitrous to a wet setup, trying to spray her before end of year.

the motec was starting to act weird, car was running super rich and dying randomly, found the coil driver box was getting super super hot on its own with no wiring issues, plugs were fouled out bad.

osie is giving me his 94 harness thats not all cut up to run for now, and I am installing the LTCC along with the accell 36lb injectors i have laying around. have a wideband on the way.

I will go holley over the winter, once the cam comes etc. gonna drop the motor and do the 24x/cam/holley over winter since i have to pull heads to cam swap (link bar lifters)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221002/d64f8fdc2ef4ad3096174479bf0f041a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221002/9d86cc47fd291ab3de0e4c3f35656f23.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221002/d086dce4f3c0612b3d4ad9d46687df7a.jpg

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[Injuneer]

Ouchhhh......

Do you still want the Hooker headers? Gotta clean out the garage. If possible, I'd like it if we could return the PCM to "stock" so I can sell the Hypertech to some unsuspecting soul.

[SSlowBoat]

Ouchhhh......

Do you still want the Hooker headers? Gotta clean out the garage. If possible, I'd like it if we could return the PCM to "stock" so I can sell the Hypertech to some unsuspecting soul.yes and yeah we can, gotta meet up with you, next weekend id have to run down after work in the evening

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[SSlowBoat]

Ouchhhh......

Do you still want the Hooker headers? Gotta clean out the garage. If possible, I'd like it if we could return the PCM to "stock" so I can sell the Hypertech to some unsuspecting soul.oh yeah i figured out the vss/speedo issue, the yellow/purple that run down with the trans wires were chewed thru back by the fuel regulator.

also emailed weldon to see if this regulator will lower pressure with vacuum, i know it will raise 1:1 with boost, not sure of the other way (just for tune ease)

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[Injuneer]

I can drive up to your place if I can access the PCM. On the other hand I don’t know if it can be deprogrammed without power being supplied to the PCM.

EDIT - oooops brain fart, without the harness installed the PCM isn't connected to the DLC. Maybe we can save that for later.

[SSlowBoat]

i am plugging away at it 1 hour a night after work. it sucks because this weekend i will be working both days [emoji25]

sometimes its a good thing though, because something i did the night before i will think about during the day/look at pics i took and realize there is a better way to route the wires. So far i have kept it that theres less wiring than the motec in eyesight. the only giveaway to the LTCC is the double opti plug.

I am thinking of using a maf for ease of tuning, but tapping the outlet housing of a ported maf we have and installing a nitrous outlet Hydra wet nozzle.403304033140332

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[Injuneer]

Headers can wait, as long as we can get it done in October.

[SSlowBoat]

well, mr Injuneer stopped by yesterday and brought some goodies (headers, other stuff) thank you sir, it was great to see you.

Got to talk with him about where i am at with the car and what the plan is. after he left Ltconvert and i kept working on the car. Got the LTCC installed and poof, no start.

Changed grounds around, changed the opti, etc etc.....no start. Not sure what is going on. This LTCC box ran my old 95 no issue and has been stored safely since removal from that car. just took a video of the ltcc led's when cranking and sent it to Bob Bailey, hopefully he can let me know if its something with the box or something else. Pretty frustrated.

I guess me removing the Motec pissed off the LT1 gods

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[SSlowBoat]

Guys, youre probably not gonna believe this, but i hooked the opti/stock icm/coil back up, and the car starts and revs better than it ever has in my ownership......[emoji1783]

I am waiting for a response from bailey. i would like to get the LTCC sorted and back installed for nitrous retard. for now though shes going back together to tune on motor set up stock ignition system.

I left the coils installed for now lol

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[Injuneer]

Just remember…. when you’re selling a car you put your heart and soul into for 27 years, always insist in “visitation rights”. :D

You don't know how glad I am the Shaun has the car!

[SSlowBoat]

Just remember…. when you’re selling a car you put your heart and soul into for 27 years, always insist in “visitation rights”. :D

You don't know how glad I am the Shaun has the car!

I wish it was running saturday so we could have gone for a ride. Yes you still have visitation rights lol

Thank you Fred

[SSlowBoat]

Injuneer we are back! installed waterpump today and got it back together. have to still install the wideband. i threw my 385 fireturd 2.0 tune in it and it fired off so quick it scared me! she a little rich and stuck in cells 16-18, but we will resolve

https://youtube.com/shorts/UI45o-CXoPU?feature=share

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[SSlowBoat]

got the wideband installed, stock tb installed, started tooning. first i screwed up and maxxed the ccp enable temp too high, so was stuck in cells 16-18. ok, fix that but accidentally went the other way and never went into cells 16-18. went for a ride and the car throws a dtc 24 low pulse vss and stalls. well that never happened before. did it twice.

came back home and disconnected the sensor wire from the dakota digital box and just wirenutted it together lol. played with the divisor/scalar in the tune and have a mph reading on EEHack that matches my gps phone one. Speedometer itself does not read correctly, but as long as the pcm is correctly (remember there is a iac mph follower table), im ok, i know by now my mph generally by rpm

car definitely runs smoother and feels a bit more snappy and quick. also isnt burn your eyes out rich anymore.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221022/599e1c95493fd6eda8d0141f14f1b96e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221022/788858cd61d167026ffb2f5b90468087.jpg

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[SSlowBoat]

may try test and tune tomorrow

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[SSlowBoat]

12.09 first pass, 113.4mph, on a 28"

little lean on the hit, car was hot toohttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221023/a7e985d6f362530298e880e8cad47437.jpg

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[Injuneer]

Step in the right direction.

[SSlowBoat]

Step in the right direction.11.97 off idle WOOOHOOOOOhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221024/97b10566d3bc4c030e84233751688da1.jpg

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[JOATMON]

Dem Optisparks are great WHEN THEY WORK. Is the 11.97 NA or nitrous? How much nitrous? Curious.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

Dem Optisparks are great WHEN THEY WORK. Is the 11.97 NA or nitrous? How much nitrous? Curious.
Nolan

100% N/A.

Nitrous outlet Hydra nozzle is shipped, and I found the old mallory 685 ignition box in the barn I thought we sold, we verified it works last night so that is being installed this week. Maybe spraying whats left of this bottle this weekend......

Also swapping the injectors from the Jet 30lb injectors to Osies old deka 60lb injectors as he went to 80's on his car. I also think that i MAYYBE have a fuel boiling problem in the fuel lines as the -6an braided line runs up next to the transmission to the Y-block behind the intake, then hits both rails. It seems that the afr is lean thru first gear (mid 13's) but then once i get into second it comes down to where it should be 12.5afr-ish noticed it on every pass. gotta find a roll of the dei -6an heat sleeves and install that too. you figure if the car was gonna go lean due to a fuel supply issue it would go lean in 3rd gear, high load, not all the way thru first gear

[SSlowBoat]

Deka 60lb injectors installed. gonna probably mount the mallory box where i had mounted the LTCC. I only have to get to it a few times to set it up then once its dialed in we should be good.40352

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[Injuneer]

Did you ever figure out if the Weldon AFPR is capable of vacuum reference?

[Z28pr0jekt]

Let me know if there are certain parts you may need. I should still have a brand new msd 6al (I think that's what it was) and brand new Aeromotive boost referenced AFPR that have been sitting in my storage unit for 10+ years from my defunct turbo build. I also have an early set of Fastbird 's modified fuel rails for AN fittings.

[JOATMON]

????????I thought it had 64 lb/hr low impedance injectors in it from Injuneer. How did it get the 30's in it and how did you make it run on the Motec tune for 64's.???
Nolan

[Injuneer]

The MoTeC ECU and their IEX 8-channel ignition driver were giving him problems. Went back to the factory PCM. One of the Bosch low impedance 64’s was beyond repair after he cleaned the fuel system. Seems like a lot of parts took a beating when I left it sitting for years. I feel bad about that.

The rails are modified to run in parallel, 6AN into the back of each rail, a single 6AN return welded to the crossover pipe at the front of the rails. The Weldon AFPR is outboard, under the cowl. There's a bung for a fuel pressure sensor on one rail. Shaun wasn’t sure if the AFPR was vacuum compensated. There's a port, but it’s capped. The tune in the MoTeC did not rely on vacuum compensation.

[JOATMON]

The MoTeC ECU and their IEX 8-channel ignition driver were giving him problems. Went back to the factory PCM. One of the Bosch low impedance 64’s was beyond repair after he cleaned the fuel system. Seems like a lot of parts took a beating when I left it sitting for years. I feel bad about that.

The rails are modified to run in parallel, 6AN into the back of each rail, a single 6AN return welded to the crossover pipe at the front of the rails. The Weldon AFPR is outboard, under the cowl. There's a bung for a fuel pressure sensor on one rail. Shaun wasn’t sure if the AFPR was vacuum compensated. There's a port, but it’s capped. The tune in the MoTeC did not rely on vacuum compensation.

I remember him buying one injector to replace the bad one. But I suppose the progress has outrun the posts. I'm up to date now on this interesting project.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

@ injuneer it is, i gotta find a fitting for it at work today

[SSlowBoat]

I remember him buying one injector to replace the bad one. But I suppose the progress has outrun the posts. I'm up to date now on this interesting project.
Nolan

Fred layed it out pretty well. I had tried to keep it the way he built it as much as possible. But when the motec started giving me crap Ltconvert was in the garage with me and said "i still have my stock 94 harness laying around" (hes going 24x, has a bp automotive harness from harner) we just looked at each other and i started taking the motec out while he ran and got the 94 harness and more beer.

The idea was to use my LTCC and obd1 pcm, but my LTCC was on the fritz too after install, so went back to good ole opti. That was why i swapped the injectors to the 30lb jet injectors from osies heads/cam days. At the track sunday they were at 20.5msec which basically means they are at 106% duty cycle, and i didnt want one to hang open, so i threw in osies deka 60lb injectors (he went 80's in anticipation of the D1SC)

[SSlowBoat]

todays update: picked up ngk b8efs plugs for nitrous last night, remembering how much of a nightmare it is to change plugs with the shorty headers i said to my fiance on the way home from work "hey, crazy idea, car has to go in air to do plugs, why dont we just throw the hooker headers on?"

She proceeded to meet me in the garage at 830 with the cribs ready to go to put it in the air.

passenger side shorty is out and lt in place, waiting for felpro 1406 for that side. found a nasty valvecover leak on passenger side, so thats ordered too.

mad dash, trying to get this done by saturday night to hit island sunday and hopefully spray403534035440355

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[SSlowBoat]

well, they are in.. that sucked. drivers side had to go nuts and unbolt motor mount/bracket from k-member/oil cooler to get header in. Passenger side slipped right in, too easy, because every single bolt then put up a fight. Had to chase all of them, and even then, a few wouldnt let me use 1" long bolts like i always do especially on the back 2????

other issue, drivers side collector is a half inch higher than the crossmember. im going to grind the edge of the crossmember off, but the bolts are CLOSE. rubber motor mounts mean i need atleast 1/2" of clearance, so thats gonna be interesting. passenger side will be nbd, shorten pipe, bolt muffler to collector, put in hanger.

bleh its been a fight to go faster in a week. 403564035740358

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[JOATMON]

I had a collector/x-member issue like that on the '57 P/U project. I slipped a piece of 1" black iron pipe between the collector and the frame and used it as a long prybar and just bent the whole header section down enough to clear. Across the length of all four collector tubes it bent very easily. Seems like I wadded a towel between the collector and the pipe to keep from kinking it. Just food for thought before you start grinding.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

I had a collector/x-member issue like that on the '57 P/U project. I slipped a piece of 1" black iron pipe between the collector and the frame and used it as a long prybar and just bent the whole header section down enough to clear. Across the length of all four collector tubes it bent very easily. Seems like I wadded a towel between the collector and the pipe to keep from kinking it. Just food for thought before you start grinding.
Nolani dont think i can bend it 3/4"

in good news, nozzle showed up today....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221028/16318a67bde4b3c14524a21de95edab6.jpg

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[JOATMON]

Just 3/4" should be easy as hell.
Nitrous sounds fun, I've never tried it before. I remember many years back when nitrous first started getting used on street cars. Around '79 -'80 I was racing a guy up Hwy 1 leaving work, when I started to pull away from him he flipped a nitrous switch and stretched out on me. It was summer with the windows down and I recall the smell from his exhaust from the juice.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

progress update. I made something work lolhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221029/a217f863fe0d155b57975615c195a6b4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221029/8bf19db0c63fb1ab3f3044d8d6c19892.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221029/9719e066c67102dbdeb17ad84dd342eb.jpg

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[SSlowBoat]

progress, i really dont know if im going to get this buttoned up today to run tomorrow, but we are gonna piss in the wind and tryhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221029/050896370a10edc636d40b040a6ec64c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221029/18c56b21012ed6bfcd30898c42c98a2b.jpg

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[SSlowBoat]

Injuneer now it sounds cammed

Mallory install and wiring next

https://youtube.com/shorts/DVv1_IaVVZQ?feature=share

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[SSlowBoat]

Injuneer popo8 Fastbird she huffed a 100 shot tonight

shes gonna huff a 150 shot tomorrow!
Ltconvert handled top side of car and nitrous wiring, i handled everything underneath the car. i literally layed on a piece of cardboard for 10 hours today including half a hour under the dash for the wot switch

he said the candles were lit. i have 1 bottle with about 8lbs in it, i hope it makes a few good passes tomorrow

sounds way different now toohttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221030/35bc202e74e647d35b840563af79020e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221030/475515d23f2a64fd9c48975a7d1428d1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221030/39fe15f32ceb0543703c84a0ff47d460.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221030/4aa37348455fa5db2797a8e7f714b809.jpg

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[Injuneer]

Can’t wait to see how it runs.

[SSlowBoat]

Can’t wait to see how it runs.short post, 10.84!!!!

long post when i unload everything Injuneer https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221030/bea6f5a5f1e42a20d1853a7af6cca466.jpg

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[95 blackbird]

Hell yeah, nice!!
With a 1.46 60 ft! Dayum

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[Injuneer]

Seems like you’re getting better results out of that torque converter. I could never get it below 1.60 60’s. Always seemed to leave soft. And never below 11.00, even with a 127.7 MPH pass. What RPM does the nitrous hit? I think we had it at 3,800 in the MoTeC.

[SSlowBoat]

Seems like you’re getting better results out of that torque converter. I could never get it below 1.60 60’s. Always seemed to leave soft. And never below 11.00, even with a 127.7 MPH pass. What RPM does the nitrous hit? I think we had it at 3,800 in the MoTeC.pass 1 and 2 on spray were 3200 on 6300 off, pass 3 on spray was 3000 on 6500 off.

so, heres the day: get to the track early, 2nd one thru tech. i noticed the car surging since last night at idle, and very rich. first pass was a crappy one, 12.3 then a second pass at 12.3xx slower and down 3-4mph.

third pass i took 10% fuel out everywhere on motor and changed the percent change to afr to make it lean out some. third pass back to 12.1xx and back to normalish 113mph.

said screw it lets see what happens on spray and first one off idle 3200-6400 on the window switch -7.5 degrees timing went 10.99 at 120mph. it was breaking up a little high in the rpm range and i have fairly cold plugs, a buddy was there and said try putting some timing back, so i set it to -5.5 on the mallory and sent it again. car goes 10.90 at 122mph. it felt better and broke up a hair at the top of 3rd but my bottle pressure was at 850psi.

decided 1 more, set timing to -4.5 degrees and footbraked it as hard as i could, with the window switch set to 3000 on 6500 off. shift light was set to 6500rpm and at the stripe i was cracklin a little bit with the last of the bottle, but i crossed it on the shift light and was about to grab the od. cracks off a 10.84 at 123mph

overall very happy (besides the breaking up issue) and the reward definitely was worth the effort. that 10.84 pass reminded me of Ltconvert 10.78 pass i cracked off in his car.

i gotta find more nitrous, i need more bottles. also one of the nos powershot solenoids is leaking either on the inlet fitting to solenoid, or the -6an to fitting , so have to look into that, possibly switch to a nitrous outlet solenoid i have with a larger orifice.
Injuneer i told you i would get her back to her glory and document it, thank you for giving me the opportunity to purchase this car, you built it well

10.99

https://youtu.be/HfYRGO1L1A8

10.90

https://youtu.be/puTb_mIYBUY

10.84

https://youtu.be/xsay6GVMbzUhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221031/5d1119165c80a655db4bcf13ce629633.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221031/c6800281f8d2ef638985cf39ef7116cf.jpg

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221031/3bb31f007332f93a4fcbafd8eb746be7.jpg

[JOATMON]

Looking good, awesome driving, it sure seems to be hooking good.
Nolan

[harner]

Very cool! It was a great day to hit the track.

[SSlowBoat]

Seems like you’re getting better results out of that torque converter. I could never get it below 1.60 60’s. Always seemed to leave soft. And never below 11.00, even with a 127.7 MPH pass. What RPM does the nitrous hit? I think we had it at 3,800 in the MoTeC.i honestly honestly think this converter is too tight for this combo. if it had significantly more cam then it probably would be better. even on the juice and trying to footbrake it i cannot get it near 3k. but with the motor making around 400whp on its own, its just not enough.

fred do you have a ballpark of what the car weighed?? 3600lb (guessing with a full tank and me in it) @ 400whp puts it right at 12.12 on motor, which is close to where it is for me, and same weight at 550whp (in a perfect world) on the spray puts it at 10.90 at 124mph, which again is fairly close on the wallace racing calculator

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[SSlowBoat]

Looking good, awesome driving, it sure seems to be hooking good.
Nolanthank you, i dont think im that good of a driver, atleast when it comes to actual dragstrip racing, but i guess i do something right sometimes (both in this car and the black supercharged car)

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[Injuneer]

The converter was spec’d to flash to 5,000 RPM with the full hit of what was a 275 shot. From the engine dyno, that was almost 800 lb-ft. That's exactly what it did on the chassis dyno. Remember, the original build ran a T56 with a McLeod Street Twin. I had better straight motor results with that setup. Just revved it to 5,000+ and dropped the clutch.

The TH400 sucks up a lot of power. With the T56 the drivetrain losses were as low as 12% at 763 flywheel HP. Through the TH400 losses were over 22%.

[Brandon++S]

That thing left on that 10.84 pass. Good job

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[SSlowBoat]

The converter was spec’d to flash to 5,000 RPM with the full hit of what was a 275 shot. From the engine dyno, that was almost 800 lb-ft. That's exactly what it did on the chassis dyno. Remember, the original build ran a T56 with a McLeod Street Twin. I had better straight motor results with that setup. Just revved it to 5,000+ and dropped the clutch.

The TH400 sucks up a lot of power. With the T56 the drivetrain losses were as low as 12% at 763 flywheel HP. Through the TH400 losses were over 22%.well, we may test that theory. you did 275 thru 2 nozzles, im about to put another in here, im hungry now. i got confused when we talked about the build, i thought the dyno runs were with the turbo 400, thats the sheets i have

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[Injuneer]

SSlowBoat

The initial build was two stages, which I recall were 125/150. The engine was tuned on the engine dyno for NA, 1 stage, and 2 stages. All three tunes were in the MoTeC in a single file, and available at the flip of the arming switch, plus a press of a button on the shifter. I had results for each of those. Engine was installed with the T56, and all three tunes checked on the chassis dyno. That allowed me to calculate the drivetrain losses for each case.

Two years go by, not many trips to the track, I get tired of missing 3rd gear, I opt for the TH400. There were no significant changes to the tunes since original build. The only change other than the TH400 was going from 3.73 gears to 4.11’s. Now I calculate losses through the TH400 drivetrain. I did get to E’town one Sunday, all by myself. Ran it NA, then a 1-stage pass, and that was an 11.1 @ 127.7 MPH. Decent MPH, but I left on motor, a very soft 1.6X 60-ft, N2O came in maybe 60-ft out, so ET was not good. I thought I saw that time slip in the file folders I gave you, maybe not.

Got tired of cruising almost 4,000 RPM at 70 MPH with street tires, so I installed the Gear Vendors O/D. A bit after that I got greedy, and wanted 800 HP at the flywheel. They added 30 HP, but after the fact told me they had to do it with a single stage, and they could not do it in a single file. So I end up with an NA file and an N2O file, and to switch between them I have to swap files. I would have preferred to know that BEFORE they made the change.

I had them check everything before an event at E'town, and told them to leave the N2O file in the MoTeC. The N2O pull was down 100 HP. Turned out the nitrous bottle valve had gone bad. Swapped for one of their bottles and HP returned. Go to E’town, I line up, nail the throttle and the car ambles down the track on straight motor. They had left the NA tune in the computer, and had not given me the N2O file.

About that time, I lost my job. I was working as a Project Director for the largest engineering/construction company in the world, at their small office in North Branch. The office was heavily into pharmaceuticals and Biotech. Pharma had never recovered from 9/11, and the company that was going to provide $300 million in biotech projects did not get FDA approval for their wonder drug (the one where Martha Stewart went to prison for insider trading). Closed the office. Only choice was transfer to their office in West Virginia or get laid off.

Took me six months to get a job paying 2/3 of what I had been making (who wants to hire someone in their mid-60’s). $$$ for Formula dried up. Two years later I get a better job, but now I'm working 1/2 day on Saturday, no more E’town. Formula becomes a casual driver. Eventually is spends several years in the garage, unstarted, then we push it outside and it sits for two more years, where you found it. When I retired, money became an issue, and I figured at 75+ years old it was time for someone else to enjoy it.

[SSlowBoat]

SSlowBoat

The initial build was two stages, which I recall were 125/150. The engine was tuned on the engine dyno for NA, 1 stage, and 2 stages. All three tunes were in the MoTeC in a single file, and available at the flip of the arming switch, plus a press of a button on the shifter. I had results for each of those. Engine was installed with the T56, and all three tunes checked on the chassis dyno. That allowed me to calculate the drivetrain losses for each case.

Two years go by, not many trips to the track, I get tired of missing 3rd gear, I opt for the TH400. There were no significant changes to the tunes since original build. The only change other than the TH400 was going from 3.73 gears to 4.11’s. Now I calculate losses through the TH400 drivetrain. I did get to E’town one Sunday, all by myself. Ran it NA, then a 1-stage pass, and that was an 11.1 @ 127.7 MPH. Decent MPH, but I left on motor, a very soft 1.6X 60-ft, N2O came in maybe 60-ft out, so ET was not good. I thought I saw that time slip in the file folders I gave you, maybe not.

Got tired of cruising almost 4,000 RPM at 70 MPH with street tires, so I installed the Gear Vendors O/D. A bit after that I got greedy, and wanted 800 HP at the flywheel. They added 30 HP, but after the fact told me they had to do it with a single stage, and they could not do it in a single file. So I end up with an NA file and an N2O file, and to switch between them I have to swap files. I would have preferred to know that BEFORE they made the change.

I had them check everything before an event at E'town, and told them to leave the N2O file in the MoTeC. The N2O pull was down 100 HP. Turned out the nitrous bottle valve had gone bad. Swapped for one of their bottles and HP returned. Go to E’town, I line up, nail the throttle and the car ambles down the track on straight motor. They had left the NA tune in the computer, and had not given me the N2O file.

About that time, I lost my job. I was working as a Project Director for the largest engineering/construction company in the world, at their small office in North Branch. The office was heavily into pharmaceuticals and Biotech. Pharma had never recovered from 9/11, and the company that was going to provide $300 million in biotech projects did not get FDA approval for their wonder drug (the one where Martha Stewart went to prison for insider trading). Closed the office. Only choice was transfer to their office in West Virginia or get laid off.

Took me six months to get a job paying 2/3 of what I had been making (who wants to hire someone in their mid-60’s). $$$ for Formula dried up. Two years later I get a better job, but now I'm working 1/2 day on Saturday, no more E’town. Formula becomes a casual driver. Eventually is spends several years in the garage, unstarted, then we push it outside and it sits for two more years, where you found it. When I retired, money became an issue, and I figured at 75+ years old it was time for someone else to enjoy it.

im very much enjoying it fred, we are just out here trying to make you proud. i figure getting the tune figured out and a good full bottle with bottle pressure correct i can get a few more tenths out of the 150 horse shot. then go up more and more.

I gotta stay faster than osie Ltconvert

[Injuneer]

I've got two more bottles, partially full…….

[SSlowBoat]

I've got two more bottles, partially full…….

i need them......lol i knew i shouldve just got them from you a while ago. giggle gas has me HOOKED

[Injuneer]

I put an NOS 125-shot dry kit on the car less than a year after I bought the car new in California. The NOS kit was legal in CA and had a CARB-EO authorization label. Only requirement was that you had to use the electronic WOT switch included with the kit. I still have the switch if you are interested. Patches into the wiring for the TPS sensor. Was a lot of fun on the street. Turned a 14-second car into a 12-second ride. The outboard fuel pump mounted on the body in front of the rear axle was included in that kit as an inline booster. It's a high pressure Bosch pump that was standard equipment on Porsches. There's another one in the tank.

Did you solve the problem with the lean out in first gear? Was it the heat from the trans/exhaust? One of the things Bill taught me was the problem of sudden reduction of fuel pressure on a hard launch. When you’re pulling 1G, the mass of fuel in the fuel supply line is pressing back against the fuel pump = sudden reduction of pressure exactly when you need max pressure. He showed my a log with with fuel pressures on it, from their 6-second Pro 5.0 Mustang. Pressure dropped on launch. The “cure” was to keep the supply line as small as reasonable to minimize mass of fuel (hence the -6AN line in the Formula), and using a high pressure pump to maintain a 58 PSI supply. His thinking was losing 4 or 5 PSI on a 58 PSI system was a smaller percentage loss in injector flow than losing that much pressure on a 43.5 PSI system.

If you do the math, losing 5 PSI on a 43.5 PSI system, you reduce injector flow by 5.9%. Losing 5 PSI on a 58 PSI system reduces injector flow by 4.4%. Small change but a step in the right direction.

[SSlowBoat]

I put an NOS 125-shot dry kit on the car less than a year after I bought the car new in California. The NOS kit was legal in CA and had a CARB-EO authorization label. Only requirement was that you had to use the electronic WOT switch included with the kit. I still have the switch if you are interested. Patches into the wiring for the TPS sensor. Was a lot of fun on the street. Turned a 14-second car into a 12-second ride. The outboard fuel pump mounted on the body in front of the rear axle was included in that kit as an inline booster. It's a high pressure Bosch pump that was standard equipment on Porsches. There's another one in the tank.

Did you solve the problem with the lean out in first gear? Was it the heat from the trans/exhaust? One of the things Bill taught me was the problem of sudden reduction of fuel pressure on a hard launch. When you’re pulling 1G, the mass of fuel in the fuel supply line is pressing back against the fuel pump = sudden reduction of pressure exactly when you need max pressure. He showed my a log with with fuel pressures on it, from their 6-second Pro 5.0 Mustang. Pressure dropped on launch. The “cure” was to keep the supply line as small as reasonable to minimize mass of fuel (hence the -6AN line in the Formula), and using a high pressure pump to maintain a 58 PSI supply. His thinking was losing 4 or 5 PSI on a 58 PSI system was a smaller percentage loss in injector flow than losing that much pressure on a 43.5 PSI system.

If you do the math, losing 5 PSI on a 43.5 PSI system, you reduce injector flow by 5.9%. Losing 5 PSI on a 58 PSI system reduces injector flow by 4.4%. Small change but a step in the right direction.the car became happier with the tune before my dumb ass went and changed a bunch of stuff 2 days after i got in the 11's.

so i am 99.3% sure my mallory 685 is not working correctly, the car is breaking up and almost dying with it on, but if i bypass it and plug the coil back as stock the problem goes away and the car runs better.

guess im creating a nitrous tune file to flash on the sauce. i took the car for a ride, logging, and it was idling like crap and missing randomly no matter what load was on the engine. pulled over, unplugged it, continue driving, car runs better and feels back to normal [emoji2369] blm's looked better too, not sure whats wrong with it. kind of mad because thats 2 forms of nitrous timing retard that have been acting up (LTCC and Mallory) ugh

also changing the power shot solenoid to try to spray more (limited to 150hp) to a nitrous outlet solenoid.

i also vacuum compensated the regulator now and am going to bump the base fuel pressure to 46ish (range is 41-47 per gm) as it goes to 43 wot.



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[SSlowBoat]

this was the 10.84 pass on the 1.46 60-ft. 17.5psi in the et street pro's, and it wrinkled them

40359

[Injuneer]

SSlowBoat

At least the suspension seems to be fairly solid. The car always hooked, no matter what I threw at it. I just want to see some air under the fronts...... :D

PS: Thank you Steve Spohn!

[SSlowBoat]

SSlowBoat

At least the suspension seems to be fairly solid. The car always hooked, no matter what I threw at it. I just want to see some air under the fronts...... :D

PS: Thank you Steve Spohn!

i was gonna say thank you! for setting the suspension up right, i havent touched a single thing in regards to the suspension since i bought it from you. it obviously flat out works! i was hoping for air under the fronts too! im going to put my skinnies back on, that should allow them to hang out a little bit more

i just shipped my LTCC to bob bailey, hopefully he can find the issue with it and get it working so i have the nitrous retard available on the fly. otherwise i have already created a tune file with 7 degrees, 5 degrees, and 4 degrees pulled so i can quickly flash them in. have a intellitronix window switch on the way, along with a few fittings and another 10 b8efs plugs.

Fred is it possible for me to come grab those nitrous bottles saturday morning?

[Injuneer]

No problem with Saturday morning. Just let me know if you would be there before 9:00am.

I have some other nitrous stuff available, listed on the General Sales forum:

http://www.ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?32058-Parts-nitrous-scanmaster-misc

As always, price is negotiable.

[SSlowBoat]

No problem with Saturday morning. Just let me know if you would be there before 9:00am.

I have some other nitrous stuff available, listed on the General Sales forum:

http://www.ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?32058-Parts-nitrous-scanmaster-misc

As always, price is negotiable.planning on being there at 9:01am, i know the wife needs her beauty rest [emoji51]

Uninstalled mallory box, installed msd digital 6AL osie had laying around. car runs better now. also took off those dynatech vortex turn down tips, they made like a funny whistling sound that was REALLY annoying. just got the dumps off the pipes i had to cut off the mufflers and put those back on.

have parts coming.....-6an nitrous filter so i can use my nitrous outlet bottle, removed the solenoid y and have a -6an to npt adapter, -6an line, and -6an to npt adapter for the nitrous outlet solenoid. also found a -4 to -3an nitrous outlet "race" line for the nozzle, so solenoid outlet will be -4 instead of -3 [emoji2369] (nitrous outlet calls it their "race" solenoid feed upgrade)

finally have a summit window switch coming too ($50) allegedly they work well for controlling nitrous.

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[SSlowBoat]

[emoji102]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221104/65ef369c0096ac7ea8c155f6874badb2.jpg

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[shownomercy]

Be a lot cooler if you just ran wawa 93

:lol:

[SSlowBoat]

Be a lot cooler if you just ran wawa 93

[emoji38]*quickchek 93 mixed with this sir, i HATE wawa

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[SSlowBoat]

.177 orifice solenoid, -6an feed, -4/-3 from solenoid to nozzle, window switch installed

need to change plugs, swap bottles, change passenger side valvecover gasket (leaking like a sieve) and PRAY for no rain sundayhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221105/882b706bcc1d0d98b6c76ae39eb7fe21.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221105/e032a6ae8a91199ce469031cafcb5ac7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221105/c24ed654245463da9d0423209bc42150.jpg

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[adam85]

I love checking for updates on this every day! It’s amazing how fast this is all happening also. Great progress with it and good luck.

[Injuneer]

Stand back... he's on the loose with two more bottles with about 15# in them....... :face_shocked:

[SSlowBoat]

I love checking for updates on this every day! It’s amazing how fast this is all happening also. Great progress with it and good luck.i get bored easy, then i get fixated and obsessed with something

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[SSlowBoat]

Stand back... he's on the loose with two more bottles with about 15# in them....... :face_shocked:and one more in the hatch! thanks again sir. im tempted for that quick release bottle bracket, but i think im going to wait and buy the fancy dual heated bottle bracket from Nitrous Outlethttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221105/53a3855baf92ef62aa0f98197eb12beb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221105/c8af6fefbb5b1a748d5b8acaf6a98822.jpg

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[SSlowBoat]

just took it on its longest cruise so far this evening after working on it today.

changed the plugs/redid the hatch nitrous a little, changed the passenger side valvecover gasket (which now leaks worse smh)

even had the fiance working on it. did a few 3rd gear highway hits and it actually spun from a 60mph roll (this was all to get data), car even feels better on motor than it did before, and the wideband looks better on the logs

dont think track is gonna be open tomorrow, as rain is forecast. thats fine because then i have a week to double check everything again. whenever the track is open im going and bringing the jet kithttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221106/4a8d2a0ddb572b1e6a83f23bffe62a15.jpg

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221106/0dad84bc9fc52f64dc711d95f13c3239.jpg

[SSlowBoat]

https://youtu.be/WsKYikByBxU

her first time feeling the nitrous

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[JOATMON]

Fiancee turns wrenches with you, Wow. She's a keeper.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

Fiancee turns wrenches with you, Wow. She's a keeper.
Nolanshe either turns wrenches or she doesnt get to spend time with me. after 7 years she knows. when i had the G8 GXP she helped me put headers on it in the rain on a downhill gravel parking pad in february, in the dark.

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[SSlowBoat]

ive had these valvecovers laying around for years and never had a use for them. they didnt clear roller rockers and were cast jegs specials (with alt notch though).

well, a grinder, a dremel, and some channel locks, and they clear. have to find bolts though4036040361

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[JOATMON]

Got a set like that on my '97 and had to do the same thing on the inside. I started hand grinding and said, puck dis, too much work. I took them to a friends machine shop and had him carve them out on his milling machine. It was like slicing butter. Only problem I've had with them is maintaining the shine. They were originally polished to a near mirror finish, but the shine don't last too long.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

complete. yes those are regular flat head bolts. but i have both spectre centerbolt t-handles coming along with the cone head hex bolts.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221109/ad4be14b171237ab1da36c878d4299fb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221109/56e6911b1a95aa2325f5897c2fd10f25.jpg

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[SSlowBoat]

i mean its a solid roller, so old school T-handles for quick valve access/throwback to the glory days or regular bolts???
Injuneer thoughts??https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221110/f1c6a2ca97d89d1b1eeab6bb952c0793.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221110/553c34b5ac2497a76f8f2656a26f01cc.jpg

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[Injuneer]

The T-handles look good. I was envisioning the long T-handle bolt they used on perimeter covers. Hadn’t seen them used with center bolt covers. I wasn’t too crazy about them on the perimeters. The plain bolts would look good too, with a hex socket head, either stainless or black oxide.

Next time I stop by I'll bring the Mothers Billet Metal Polish….. :D

[SSlowBoat]

catch can installed. track closed again tomorrow [emoji30]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221113/1d918cb28c00e9281c0d71ebf8a5f2b0.jpg

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[SSlowBoat]

8SEC6SPD Taner made me this awesome spark plug holder on his 3d printer. thank you again sir.

Started talking to NightTrain66 about switching the cam up. this cam is super super super small, looking like the entire valvetrain may have to be substantially updated when i go to a larger cam. Thinking of staying solid roller, but a nasty one.
Injuneer do you remember what brand valvesprings these are? i cannot find anything about them in the files/posts40362

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[Injuneer]

@SSlowBoat (http://www.ltxtech.com/forums/member.php?u=5592)

The cam was spec'd to pass NJ emissions. They ran it on a smog dyno in PA and said it would. Unfortunately that decision was made without my input because I was stuck in Bulciago, Italy for work. I would have loved a thumper, and another 50 HP.

I think I mentioned when I was at your place that Second Street got their springs from PSI (Performance Springs Inc.).

[SSlowBoat]

looks like the rockers are older comp pro magnum stainless steel 1105 part number. they should be ok to remain with the new solid roller, along with the crower lifters

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[Injuneer]

Note that the Pro Mags are 1.6X on the intakes and 1.5X (or maybe 1.55?) on the exhaust. Second Street was concerned that the head flow on the exhaust was not high enough for the nitrous. They felt the bowls had been hogged out too much. So they used the 1.5X on the exhaust to achieve 0.590" gross (same as intake), with the option to step up to 1.6X if the found the exhaust was restrictive. Apparently they never thought the exhaust was restricting performance, because they kept the 1.5X on the exhaust.

The heads and intake were done by CNC Cylinder Heads in Pinellas Park, FL. The owner was Pete Incuado. He claimed to have been in involved with GM in the development of the LT4 heads. He was the one that told me that the reason the LT4 intake ports did not match the LT4 head ports was because GM ran out of money for the LT4 project and just left the LT4 intake internals the same as the LT1 intake, just added a bit of extra metal on top of the runners so they could be opened up. But GM never opened the runners up.

Pete told me to have Second Street run the intake when they flowed the heads. They flowed the head first, then bolted on the intake, and were surprised when the flow increased about 3% with the intake. Pete had also told me about running the heads on the pressure side of the bench to get a more realistic measure of flow capacity. He lost me there. But when the heads flowed so-so on the exhaust I told Second Street to contact Pete. I tried to contact him too, but he never responded to either of us. Was really disappointed that he cut us off.

CNC had also supplied the 5-axis machines to Lingenfelter, and Pete claimed he "set them up". There was another story that CNC was supplying heads to Callaway.

Just a bit of history from 22 years ago.

[SSlowBoat]

the head ports and intake porting is pretty nice Injuneer !

atco rental got cancelled today due to cold, basically every local track including cecil is closed for the season, so i went for a ride, did a few pulls, picked up my daughter from school in it, then started tearing it apart.

ton of posts/people say you cant get link bar lifters out with heads on, well i wanted to see for myself. driver side lifters are out, guess i got lucky.
NightTrain66 hydraulic roller cam please sir, lets make this thing sing in 2023https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221118/9cace6d0fe496aef65dfca7157c9e3ff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221118/a1e9a0f62c23355c51fb8ee141327a1c.jpg

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[SSlowBoat]

the valve seals not so much, pulled #1 valve springs to check dimensions so lloyd can let me know what i can and cannot reuse, found both valve seals off the bosses, and exhaust seal ripped. Explains the little bit of blue ive been seeing.

cam is gonna be rowdy, to the point im probably pulling the motor to degree/check ptv etchttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221121/eb88a98529a96b971dd1b40ea4b22fc4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221121/8548c4fb44a848f308a14ad89c598663.jpg

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[SSlowBoat]

gonna start pulling the engine this week. I have to check ptv/rod to cam clearance etc, i didnt want to pull the motor for the cam swap but better safe than sorry.

[Injuneer]

Was there any other apparent damage to the valve train? I know on at least one missed shift with the T56 the data log showed it hit 8,000 RPM. I had them check the valves after that and they said everything was OK.

No more solid rollers? You can use the knock sensor if they’re gone. Did sound nice though. I guess I liked the sound, and my engineer warped mind kept thinking torque x RPM = HP. The N2O supplied a lot of torque, so the high RPM made the HP even stronger.

[SSlowBoat]

Was there any other apparent damage to the valve train? I know on at least one missed shift with the T56 the data log showed it hit 8,000 RPM. I had them check the valves after that and they said everything was OK.

No more solid rollers? You can use the knock sensor if they’re gone. Did sound nice though. I guess I liked the sound, and my engineer warped mind kept thinking torque x RPM = HP. The N2O supplied a lot of torque, so the high RPM made the HP even stronger.as of right now cyl 3 looks to have the seals rattled off the boss a little. Lloyd said ditch these seals, along with like 5 other people, i guess they suck to install and dont last long. otherwise so far everything looks ok on that side.

I am switching gears and prepping to pull the motor by this weekend. i have to get the cam out and get a base circle measurement to Lloyd so we can try to be safe on the custom cam clearing the rods as there is only 3 billet blanks in the country right now, and i want to get it ordered asap. i am trying to reuse as much valvetrain as i can, so he is seeing if we can reuse the retainers right now (i cant find this dimension retainer on manley's catalog, guess its been updated)

Lloyd convinced me to stay solid roller. its gonna be a helluva lot more rowdy than it was with this cam, and more rowdy than any other lt1 build i have been involved in. so i have to check piston to valve clearance too, that requires head pulling, which in car with studs is no dice. wish i knew the block measurements (deck height, piston in hole, etc) but we will get those figured out.

Maybe a compression bump if clearance allows. I am very happy i took this car from sitting for 7ish years to running 10's with minimal changes/maintenance/updating in the 8 months i have owned it.

I want to be knocking on the 9.99 sec door in 2023

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221122/650b9e60b2ef8b8bedce46a8c338d32e.jpg

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[JOATMON]

Hey, PM wouldn't allow the photos of the Crowers. Hope this is ok.
4036340364

[JOATMON]

40365
They are basically NIB. PM me.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

cam and valvesprings ordered from NightTrain66

[SSlowBoat]

Happy Thanksgiving to all! Cam is out!40366https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221124/ce1dc68fd702be7b1dafa8eb1c540eef.jpg

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[SSlowBoat]

i hate waiting for parts

[SSlowBoat]

cam/springs should be here tuesday. cleaned up timing cover and installed new seals. weird issue, the balancer bolt i removed is a) super long and b) threads look bugged. ok no biggie get new arp balancer bolt. well its significantly shorter and wont even start in the crank.

....wtf


Oh yeah the threads are definitely bugged, BAD like crank may have to come out bad. callies uses a deep drilled thread for the crank bolt, so you need a longer bolt than a standard or arp bolt (4" length vs 2.409" length for a regular lt1/sbc crank)

Someone ran this balancer hub down with the bolt......the threads are fucked


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221203/e3ed595f3faecbe281b450926d4b276c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221203/915f695600f759bfcaaa464157c89885.jpg

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[JOATMON]

I ran into the same issue last time I had mine apart. I flushed the hole out with WD40 and ran a bottoming tap through it to clean up the threads. I gave the harmonic balancer hole a light buffing to gain a bit of clearance in it. I then used a harmonic balancer installation tool to press it on because I knew the problem began with someone using the bolt to pull it on rather than using the proper tool. After careful inspection of the threads with a light and mirror, then measuring the total depth of the hole and doing the math with the thick washer I went to a hardware store and bought a 7/16 fine thread grade 8 bolt that was the correct needed length without bottoming out. Also, there is no need in over torqueing the bolt because the balancer is a press fit.
I have ran into this problem on quite a few engines over the years.
Pisses me off every time its happened.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

I ran into the same issue last time I had mine apart. I flushed the hole out with WD40 and ran a bottoming tap through it to clean up the threads. I gave the harmonic balancer hole a light buffing to gain a bit of clearance in it. I then used a harmonic balancer installation tool to press it on because I knew the problem began with someone using the bolt to pull it on rather than using the proper tool. After careful inspection of the threads with a light and mirror, then measuring the total depth of the hole and doing the math with the thick washer I went to a hardware store and bought a 7/16 fine thread grade 8 bolt that was the correct needed length without bottoming out. Also, there is no need in over torqueing the bolt because the balancer is a press fit.
I have ran into this problem on quite a few engines over the years.
Pisses me off every time its happened.
Nolani ordered a long tap, because the threads start 2" in atleast on this callies crank. i read a guy on yellowbullet drilled and tapped it for a 1/2" big block crank bolt, but i would probably end up using a timesert for it. just hoping i have clearance in the car

I have a stick of 7/16-20 grade 8 threaded rod, i am trying to find heavy nuts and am thinking of just making a stud like callies offers for a crank mandrel. blackbirdws6 has a callies stud in his

the biggest problem is it seems like the first quarter inch of thread in the crank is stretched, then there is a chip in the threads, then good thread beyond that (atleast what the bore camera shows

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[JOATMON]

i ordered a long tap, because the threads start 2" in atleast on this callies crank. i read a guy on yellowbullet drilled and tapped it for a 1/2" big block crank bolt, but i would probably end up using a timesert for it. just hoping i have clearance in the car

I have a stick of 7/16-20 grade 8 threaded rod, i am trying to find heavy nuts and am thinking of just making a stud like callies offers for a crank mandrel. blackbirdws6 has a callies stud in his

the biggest problem is it seems like the first quarter inch of thread in the crank is stretched, then there is a chip in the threads, then good thread beyond that (atleast what the bore camera shows

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That sounds like an excellent repair solution. I haven't considered grade 8 all thread rod, I guess just because grade 8 all thread is not too common. I haven't actually measured but it seems the coating on my ATI damper makes the interference fit a bit too tight, thats why I buffed the bore a little bit.

[SSlowBoat]

That sounds like an excellent repair solution. I haven't considered grade 8 all thread rod, I guess just because grade 8 all thread is not too common. I haven't actually measured but it seems the coating on my ATI damper makes the interference fit a bit too tight, thats why I buffed the bore a little bit.well i got fuggin LUCKY and was able to tap it and clean it up enough with a regular 7/16-20 irwin standard length tap that i can now bottom the bolt/allthread out.


large sigh of relief

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[JOATMON]

Good deal! Thought came to mind, if you leave the stud long enough and it doesn't interfere with anything, you can also use it to install the damper.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

Good deal! Thought came to mind, if you leave the stud long enough and it doesn't interfere with anything, you can also use it to install the damper.
Nolan

i like to heat the hub to 225f in the oven then slip it on.

[JOATMON]

Yep that'll work too. You made me think of a job a long time ago. Timing gears on a Chevy 292 six cylinder. I was living in an apartment doing the job on my work truck in the parking lot. Had the new gear and had the cam out and was gonna wait till Monday and have a machine shop do it.
My BIL was visiting from out of state and said hey we can do that now. He had me heat the gear in a pot of boiling water and knocked it off with a hammer. Then he stuck the end of the cam in the freezer while I heated the new gear in the pot of water. A couple of gentle taps with a hammer was all it took to install the new gear.

[SSlowBoat]

new cam from NightTrain66 came in today, will get stabbed in today.

its a SPICY boy

253/261 @ 0.050
.684/.691
109lsa+4

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[JOATMON]

WWHAT! That thing is gonna be kicking. Didn't know you were going that big. Full on dragmaster. Can't wait to hear it.
I'll bet Injuneer is gonna get a boner and want to buy it back LOL.
Nolan

[harner]

its a SPICY boy

253/261 @ 0.050
.684/.691
109lsa+4


Damn, good luck on the street lol

[Injuneer]

Good thing there's no tailpipe emissions for a 94……..

[SSlowBoat]

Good thing there's no tailpipe emissions for a 94……..Emissions? what are those?

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[SSlowBoat]

Damn, good luck on the street loloh well, may have more problems

the link bars are close, meaning the lifters are for standard sbc, not a roller block 0.300 raised link like they should be.

also the titanium retainers cannot be used, they do not fit the inner spring id by 0.150ish

bleh

40374

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[JOATMON]

Dam, So it had old style SBC lifters and pushrods as it was built originally? That's a crazy faux pas. Not only are you gonna need tall boss lifters, you're gonna need the short pushrods too ~7.20" IIRC. I know you know what you're doing, but if you read my Lt1 top end overhaul thread it will bring to light a bunch of items I experienced straightening out mistakes behind a "Pro-mechanic".

[SSlowBoat]

Dam, So it had old style SBC lifters and pushrods as it was built originally? That's a crazy faux pas. Not only are you gonna need tall boss lifters, you're gonna need the short pushrods too ~7.20" IIRC. I know you know what you're doing, but if you read my Lt1 top end overhaul thread it will bring to light a bunch of items I experienced straightening out mistakes behind a "Pro-mechanic".

i spoke to a couple engine guys today and they advised as long as i have 0.025+ clearance between the link bar and the boss i "should" be fine. that would explain why i could get the lifters out without removing the heads. one suggested i soften the edge of the lifter boss a little with a dremel, just to get 0.030, if i really dont want to pull the heads (i do not)

lifter length only increased approximately 0.175ish with the reduced base circle, which would put the rockers in the same exact spot that they were previously (in theory, if my maths is right)

bigger question is regular steel retainers vs tool steel, as my titaniums inner od for the inner spring is too large by about 0.150ish.

[SSlowBoat]

well, ill do one better, i spoke to Crower, they advised me the post 86 roller blocks get a 0.300 raised PUSHROD seat cutaway lifter, to prevent grinding the lifter boss for pushrod clearance, but dimensionally the lifter blade is in the same exact location, unlike other brands who raise the blade up 0.300.

he said stuff some greased rags in there and dremel the lifter boss to 0.030 for blade clearance and i will be fine

[JOATMON]

On my engine I converted from stock LT1 lifters with the dogbones and spider plate to tie bar rollers. They were Howards Max Effort tie bar hydraulic rollers with a +.300 body. They dropped right in with the heads on. I haven't heard of any tie bar lifters that wouldn't drop right in a SBC with the heads on. The lifter seat height was nearly identical to the seat height on the stock lifters IIRC.
On the newer LS gen 3/4/5 engines 5.3 6.0 etc. you have to pull the heads to do a lifter job.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

On my engine I converted from stock LT1 lifters with the dogbones and spider plate to tie bar rollers. They were Howards Max Effort tie bar hydraulic rollers with a +.300 body. They dropped right in with the heads on. I haven't heard of any tie bar lifters that wouldn't drop right in a SBC with the heads on. The lifter seat height was nearly identical to the seat height on the stock lifters IIRC.
On the newer LS gen 3/4/5 engines 5.3 6.0 etc. you have to pull the heads to do a lifter job.
Nolan

you have to pull the heads to put link bar hydraulic lifters in, atleast most of them. i have spoken to and seen karl ellwein deal with it (lunati link bars especially), my crowers did touch the head and require a little bit of finagleing to get in. most people have 0 decked blocks, that removes 0.030 of clearance.

my pushrod length checker maxes at 7.8" length, so i ordered some 8.050 pushrods based on the base circle average difference between the old and new cam to get it what i feel should be pretty close, we will see when they arrive. Also may have to change the fixed manley guideplates to a set of isky adjustables we have laying around, will know for sure when the pushrods show up. also have new comp tool steel retainers on the way, along with new valve seats. i gotta get this old stuff posted up for sale

final thing, the ferrea intake valves have a double step on them (lock groove and groove below it) that is making it a royal pain in the ass to get the comp ptfe valve seals off, even with a valve seal removal tool.

[shownomercy]

We managed to get morels in somehow without yanking heads, but my crowers had no chance of being removed with heads on.

[SSlowBoat]

comp 955 springs, tool steel retainers, seats and locks

8.050 manley thick wall 5/16 pushrods coming tomorrow. i think im going to run the 1.55 rockers on the intake instead of exhaust to reduce the intake duration a degree and the lift to .649 (minus. 0.018 hot lash is 0.631) to help evacuate the exhaust a little more than whats comin in the intake on spray.

these springs are FUN to get onhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221209/cbdb0d5fb3b0160548425f4c34607472.jpg

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[SSlowBoat]

one side springs are on, but i realized my cheapo spring height mic may have been a little off, measuring on other valves i got different measurements [emoji31] intake 1.900 exhaust 1.975.

exhaust i think its fine, but i have +.050 locks coming for the intake, i think 300ish lb on the seat is a little excessive

Pushrods came, manley 8.050 .120 wall 5/16 pushrods. intake with 1.55 rocker looks good, exhaust is a little wide with a 1.6 but i think it will be okhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221209/4710386d58ea64d585517e0e9542b5f4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221209/8b17f1ba877e14a9f71c5605ee2e7d2c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221209/1ef5c558c2ca52aea658eb420380c300.jpg

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[shownomercy]

300lb is a little to low for when you go turbo sadly.

[SSlowBoat]

300lb is a little to low for when you go turbo sadly.well, i have the flu, and my brain is not working right, and in my haste because i want to hear the thump thump, plus not feeling well, i screwed up big time......

the springs are wayy too close to coil bind on the intake, even with a rocker ratio reduction. i screwed up the measurements, why the hell the intake valves are so much shorter at 1.880 installed with regular locks than the exhaust at 1.975 installed with regular locks has both me and Lloyd baffled. why the original builder used such a shorter ferrea valve than the manley exhaust valve is beyond me.

i double checked my measurements. the old spring setup had +0.050 locks to bring the installed height up. i caught that after the dayquil started working, because the maths was not working out.

long and the short of it, i have the wrong springs, i need comp 943's not 955's. its my fault, Lloyds suggestion went off the measurements i gave him [emoji20]

hopefully comp lets me swap the springs out

the pics in order are the intake and exhaust with standard locks, and the last picture i threw on the old +0.050 locks from the old spring setup.....puts me at .041 to coil with a 1.55 rocker, still a wee bit too close (this includes cold lash subtracted from lift number)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221210/256053fad5841e43b33175ff1ca607fe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221210/b2527ed4f77acbd15100b5b5e23e515a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221210/41cfcc0231e6e58dca56f4f93402c646.jpg

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[JOATMON]

I feel for ya, I also had to do alot of ass and head scratching to figure out my head issues.
I got curious about your valve length issues and did some digging.
Injuneer noted that the intakes were 2.00" Ferrea's and the exhausts were 1.56" Manley severe duty
The only two Ferrea 2 inch valves with 11/32" stems are F6165(competition) and a F1144P(competition plus) they are both .050" longer than stock(4.91) at 4.96.
The only Manley 1.56" valve listed is a 11501 it's a race flow valve but not severe duty. It's a stock length valve at 4.91.
Now I'm real confused. LOL

[SSlowBoat]

I feel for ya, I also had to do alot of ass and head scratching to figure out my head issues.
I got curious about your valve length issues and did some digging.
Injuneer noted that the intakes were 2.00" Ferrea's and the exhausts were 1.56" Manley'syeah they are, intake valve is some weird ferrea superflow 1144p double step +.250 length valve so its ALLEGEDLY longer, but the manley exhaust is actually longer (atleast out the top of the head)

I have all the specs on everything but the lifters and bearing clearances

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[SSlowBoat]

I feel for ya, I also had to do alot of ass and head scratching to figure out my head issues.
I got curious about your valve length issues and did some digging.
Injuneer noted that the intakes were 2.00" Ferrea's and the exhausts were 1.56" Manley'salso the manley valves were 1.60 that were cut down

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[JOATMON]

I typed some more stuff I found in an edit, read the rest. But if the exhausts were cut down 1.60's The intakes could be cut down 2.02's??????

[JOATMON]

oops double post

[SSlowBoat]

cut to 2.00 according to the receipts i have

[SSlowBoat]

Lloyd let me know comp will swap the springs, so i packed them up and am sending them back tomorrow. going with 943's, can keep the rockers the same, just have to shim down the exhaust valves 0.075"

shims showed up today and extra valve seals.



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[SSlowBoat]

new springs showed up today WOOHOO

[SSlowBoat]

shimmed cyl 1 exhaust to 1.900 installed height, installed the 943 springs and checked pushrod length again, 8.050" works good with the split ratio 1.6intake/1.55exhaust. no more coil bind issues.

christmas shopping for the family today then back at it this afternoon

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[SSlowBoat]

AAHHHHH

springs all installed, new seals, tool steel retainers and superlocks. everything setup for 1.880-1.900 installed height.

i think im caving, i need heat in the garage, its too damn cold.

also, i have never touched the passenger side motor mount, well i dropped a valvelock and the nut for the motor mount/valve lock came back up on the magnet

Also also, i am 1 warmish day away from cutting out the ac box and making it heat only

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[Brandon++S]

Very good progress. Hats off for keeping at it!

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[harner]

i think im caving, i need heat in the garage, its too damn cold.


Nice job! It's a shame you don't know any industrial hvac guys lol. I've been heating my steel building with a big torpedo heater for 2 years now. Works great for the 1-2 times a week I'm down there. The building is big enough that the fumes are a non-issue.

[Injuneer]

You went back to the 1.6 I/1.55 E? At one point I thought you were thinking of swapping them.

[JOATMON]

Coil bind clearance seems below the minimum with an installed height of 1.880, right at the minimum at a 1.90 installed height?
I'm figuring this at zero lash with the lift numbers you posted. You good on retainer to seal clearance now?
Just following along, hope you don't mind me injecting my thoughts. Comp 943's show 1.90 installed height with coil bind at 1.15
I'm thinking .060 minimum coil clearance is a safe number?
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

Coil bind clearance seems below the minimum with an installed height of 1.880, right at the minimum at a 1.90 installed height?
I'm figuring this at zero lash with the lift numbers you posted. You good on retainer to seal clearance now?
Just following along, hope you don't mind me injecting my thoughts. Comp 943's show 1.90 installed height with coil bind at 1.15
I'm thinking .060 minimum coil clearance is a safe number?
Nolan

1.880" intake installed height minus 1.160" coil bind height is 0.720". Add the 0.018" hot lash to that = 0.054" to coil bind with a 1.6 rocker and .684 lift

1.900" exhaust installed height minus 1.160" coil bind height is 0.740" add the 0.020 hot lash to that = 0.090" to coil bind exhaust side.

I didnt pick the springs, Lloyd did, so if he says we are good we are good. Also alot of reading leads me to alot of guys liking to run around 0.050 to coil bind because it helps dampen the spring harmonics.

0.050" to coil bind is safe on a 5 coil spring from what i have read

[SSlowBoat]

You went back to the 1.6 I/1.55 E? At one point I thought you were thinking of swapping them.

i am, but money's lol

i would like to go to a comp ultra pro mag xd or a crower enduro at some point.

[SSlowBoat]

Nice job! It's a shame you don't know any industrial hvac guys lol. I've been heating my steel building with a big torpedo heater for 2 years now. Works great for the 1-2 times a week I'm down there. The building is big enough that the fumes are a non-issue.

ever notice most general contractors/carpenters houses are perpetually not finished? same here, after working on hvac all day, i get home and do not want to work on my own hvac lol

[JOATMON]

1.880" intake installed height minus 1.160" coil bind height is 0.720". Add the 0.018" hot lash to that = 0.054" to coil bind with a 1.6 rocker and .684 lift

1.900" exhaust installed height minus 1.160" coil bind height is 0.740" add the 0.020 hot lash to that = 0.090" to coil bind exhaust side.

I didnt pick the springs, Lloyd did, so if he says we are good we are good. Also alot of reading leads me to alot of guys liking to run around 0.050 to coil bind because it helps dampen the spring harmonics.

0.050" to coil bind is safe on a 5 coil spring from what i have read

You must be figuring .670 exhaust lift with the 1.55:1 rockers, lobe lift around .432?
Piston to valve clearance checked before and after TDC?
Physically measured coil bind clearance?
Just throwing out my thoughts. I've blown up a few. LOL
When I was young I built them just like the hot rod magazines said you could. Didn't check anything. LOL
After grenading a few I quit taking chances.

[JOATMON]

ever notice most general contractors/carpenters houses are perpetually not finished? same here, after working on hvac all day, i get home and do not want to work on my own hvac lol

Guilty electrician here, been in my current house for near 30 yrs., still don't have outside lights on my shop.
Bought my wife fancy lights LAST Christmas for her garden shed, they are still in the boxes. LOL
Just haven't got round tuit.

[SSlowBoat]

You must be figuring .670 exhaust lift with the 1.55:1 rockers, lobe lift around .432?
Piston to valve clearance checked before and after TDC?
Physically measured coil bind clearance?
Just throwing out my thoughts. I've blown up a few. LOL
When I was young I built them just like the hot rod magazines said you could. Didn't check anything. LOL
After grenading a few I quit taking chances.yes, piston to valve is about .300" miles away. the block is stock deck height, the pistons have massive reliefs. 0.040 compressed gasket. i measured all that before asking lloyd. i dont think he would steer me wrong, he custom spec'd the cam, and told me what springs to use, set up the way he said.

also remember im using a solid roller, things such as pushrods and rockers can flex.

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[JOATMON]

Sweet, Thanks for sharing. Can't wait to hear it. I'm thinking about down sizing my cam for better street manners and you are going big. Can't wait to see the track results in the spring. At my age I should switch to an automatic transmission, probably would improve my ET by a couple of seconds. LOL

[SSlowBoat]

Sweet, Thanks for sharing. Can't wait to hear it. I'm thinking about down sizing my cam for better street manners and you are going big. Can't wait to see the track results in the spring. At my age I should switch to an automatic transmission, probably would improve my ET by a couple of seconds. LOL

ever since gm high tech performance had project thunderchicken (yellow solid roller formula) and kyle mckenzies solid roller formula, i always wanted a big nasty solid roller cam. i mean the car has a turbo 400 12 bolt caged etc, so its already more race car than street car, and i am crazy i will drive it on the street, but might as well go big or go home

i will have another manual trans heads cam car at some point. but that will just be a street cruiser, id like to have a c4 vette 6spd car, the only lt1 car i havent owned yet.

[SSlowBoat]

oil pan is on. slow progress. have about an hour a night until Friday. trying to get it started before the nasty cold weather this weekend

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[JOATMON]

We are also supposed to get an artic blast this weekend down here in the Deep South. In the teens and 20's according to the weatherman.
You reminded me that I got mine fired up on Christmas Eve after I did the top end overhaul years back.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

rockers are on both sides, lash adjusted.

Its going to get to a whopping 25f today, heat wave, so after the christmas crap is done im going out and gonna try to get the intake/starter/plugs in and fired offhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221225/afbd74e3943bc53ec4dad6993d86e645.jpg

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[Injuneer]

That's dedication.....

Good luck, avoid frostbite.

[SSlowBoat]

That's dedication.....

Good luck, avoid frostbite.ended up not happening today. felt really achey this morning and popped a 102f fever again around 1pm. feel like crap again. i was just finally feeling better too after being down and out for 5 days 2 weeks ago

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[JOATMON]

It'll still be sitting there when you're better, get well and Merry Christmas to everyone here.
Nolan

[SSlowBoat]

It'll still be sitting there when you're better, get well and Merry Christmas to everyone here.
Nolani wanna hear it.....

the shittiest plugs back in, 6 and 8, and the starter back in, and the ground wire fixed. couple zip ties and move top side

i wanna hear it today. i got a 1500w electric heater under the car blowing lol

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[SSlowBoat]

no weird noises, i guess i do some things right

longer vid uploading. a teaserhttps://youtube.com/shorts/qlxvoNZlA0Y?feature=sharehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221227/13f44abe6159fe1a068157dc61026612.jpg

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[SSlowBoat]

https://youtu.be/mI-J7f2vNSU

longer vid. excuse our bickering lmao

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