harner
03-08-2021, 05:09 PM
**Not LTX specific but it is my 94 TA**
*Warning: I'm also an idiot IT guy, so be nice*
There are countless threads on the Internet for battery relocations in a 4th gen. I get it, I looked at dozens. My car is close to running and I can begin to taste it, but the wind was taken from my sails last night when I tried to get it to turn over and my brand new (not reman) just went click, click, click. I turned the engine (5.3 - I know it's not an LTX) by hand and it moved. Had some water in 2 cylinders unfortunately from sitting outdoors but broke free once the plugs were out. No water in the oil so it must have been sitting on top of the piston. Despite the fuel system not being installed yet, I wanted to turn the engine over with the starter.
The car has a battery relocation kit from Summit. Used, but works and definitely worked when the LT1 was in the car. Started the car no problem. Attached to the battery positive terminal is a circuit breaker (200A). I don't remember the exact size cable that runs to the front of the car, but it is huge, like the size of a quarter or so. 1\0 gauge maybe? I don't remember offhand, but it doesn't get hot when in use or anything. The battery grounds to the body. Again, never an issue with this with the LT1. Since the LS swap, I did some rewiring, including a new harness from BP Automotive. I also rewired some shop handywork. The starter, alternator, and another junction box for the forward lamp harness all USED to connect to a stud in the engine bay. I replaced this with a fused junction box.
The battery is on the older side now and is an Odyssey PC1200, mounted in the DRIVER side rear compartment in a Taylor box. It has been sitting dormant for a LONG time. It charges no problem up to 12V but voltage drops to about 9 or 10V when cranking. The battery was on a trickle charger all weekend and said fully charged prior to my test. The breaker is 200 amps and the each terminal on the box under the hood is 80 amps each. See my attachment for a better explanation.
The starter is brand new. I swapped in an older, but working, truck starter and still clicks. A friend of mine gave the solenoid some massaging while cranking and nothing. That same friend is convinced the battery is junk. Tried jumping the starter with a screwdriver and a spare battery but that one was too weak.
I don't have a load tester and probably won't be able to do much troubleshooting for a few days, so now I'm reading and theorizing lol. Is the breaker and 80 amp fuse going to the starter hindering the starter from working properly? I'm currently shopping for a larger tray or battery box and a battery with a higher CCA rating, but I want to see if what I'm thinking even makes sense. The Odyssey has goofy posts and is tiny so I just can't throw in a good battery from my truck or something. Jumping the car off the battery would also prove to be difficult due to the car's location on my lift in the shop.
39778
*Warning: I'm also an idiot IT guy, so be nice*
There are countless threads on the Internet for battery relocations in a 4th gen. I get it, I looked at dozens. My car is close to running and I can begin to taste it, but the wind was taken from my sails last night when I tried to get it to turn over and my brand new (not reman) just went click, click, click. I turned the engine (5.3 - I know it's not an LTX) by hand and it moved. Had some water in 2 cylinders unfortunately from sitting outdoors but broke free once the plugs were out. No water in the oil so it must have been sitting on top of the piston. Despite the fuel system not being installed yet, I wanted to turn the engine over with the starter.
The car has a battery relocation kit from Summit. Used, but works and definitely worked when the LT1 was in the car. Started the car no problem. Attached to the battery positive terminal is a circuit breaker (200A). I don't remember the exact size cable that runs to the front of the car, but it is huge, like the size of a quarter or so. 1\0 gauge maybe? I don't remember offhand, but it doesn't get hot when in use or anything. The battery grounds to the body. Again, never an issue with this with the LT1. Since the LS swap, I did some rewiring, including a new harness from BP Automotive. I also rewired some shop handywork. The starter, alternator, and another junction box for the forward lamp harness all USED to connect to a stud in the engine bay. I replaced this with a fused junction box.
The battery is on the older side now and is an Odyssey PC1200, mounted in the DRIVER side rear compartment in a Taylor box. It has been sitting dormant for a LONG time. It charges no problem up to 12V but voltage drops to about 9 or 10V when cranking. The battery was on a trickle charger all weekend and said fully charged prior to my test. The breaker is 200 amps and the each terminal on the box under the hood is 80 amps each. See my attachment for a better explanation.
The starter is brand new. I swapped in an older, but working, truck starter and still clicks. A friend of mine gave the solenoid some massaging while cranking and nothing. That same friend is convinced the battery is junk. Tried jumping the starter with a screwdriver and a spare battery but that one was too weak.
I don't have a load tester and probably won't be able to do much troubleshooting for a few days, so now I'm reading and theorizing lol. Is the breaker and 80 amp fuse going to the starter hindering the starter from working properly? I'm currently shopping for a larger tray or battery box and a battery with a higher CCA rating, but I want to see if what I'm thinking even makes sense. The Odyssey has goofy posts and is tiny so I just can't throw in a good battery from my truck or something. Jumping the car off the battery would also prove to be difficult due to the car's location on my lift in the shop.
39778