95 Formula

[Jakegsxr11]

I bought the firebird in 2007 with maybe 50k on it. I have not had to do much but minor maintenance since then. It now has 70k. The car has always been a second car but something always came up to prevent me from upgrades. All I've done to it since then is add a stereo, cat back, racetronix fuel pump kit, and egr/air delete (and the supporting tuning). It's always had a small oil leak that bothered me but I never had the time to fix it. I've spent allot of time upgrading the gsxr, flipping my first house, getting married and having 3 kids. Now it's firebird time, I have every other week off work due to covid 19 and I needed a project. I decided to finally fix the oil leaks on the old bird. There were leaks at the front and back of the engine along with the A/C compressor. I decided to pull the engine and K member and clean everything up real well. It's also getting LE2 heads and cam, long tubes, and a few other engine bits. I decided I might as well replace those decarbons also since they suck. Here's a few pics of my progress so far.

[Jakegsxr11]

The engine internals look good. The heads also cleaned up nice. I had my 8 year old daughter assemble the shocks last night, I hurt my knee and couldn't get around very well. Shock install into the K member will be tonight.

[Jakegsxr11]

I have the k member all ready for the engine. New Moog ball joints, Strano springs, Koni sport sa shocks, poly motor mounts, resurfaced rotors and Hawk HPS pads. Next up is to get the cam in the engine and install the intake.

[Injuneer]

Nice clean work.... impressive!

[sleepy_z]

Welcome! Let's see more pictures

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[Jakegsxr11]

I started polishing the intake and throttle body tonight. I'm not finished yet but I like how it's turning out. I also cleaned up the wire harness and the engine bay. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200508/31538c54cb8f23df45a322a8e8e204a1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200508/4cb3304898712701d065d1142a9fbedc.jpg

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[Jakegsxr11]

I was able to get the engine together. The cam had 0.057" of end play vs. 0.015 stock but Lunati said it wasn't an issue. I also had to remove the dowel and install a longer one.

Tomorrow I want to get the engine into the k member, get the headers and clutch installed and make the plug wires. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/e9434b300453e4a2de13677e2a76ed6d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/579943201743d6bce23b6f29e5deea08.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/b72e9f6b92b534275c3fe382057c064f.jpg

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[Jakegsxr11]

These xs power headers are terrible. I might have to junk them. I had to significantly grind the drivers side k member to get them to fit. The y pipe just barely slides together, maybe only 1/8" at each joint. I can deal with those issues. Now the steering shaft isn't even close to fitting. I've moved the steering column as far to the outside as possible, upgraded to the ls1 shaft, installed new poly motor mounts. I still need another inch for clearance! I don't know what to do. And one of my msd wires were bad out of the box. I got hung up on by msd twice today after waiting on hold for 15 minutes each time. Advance auto can't really do an exchange even though the website says there is a 90 day warranty. On the plus side the spec clutch install went great! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200516/55ffd73314ac6b14e5a29f8dcda3ef53.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200516/6de98d7cf7ecfbac15e52f44a6b9eb32.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200516/1d7d146bf2b6b8d4d8dd2f7620cd6798.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200516/dd8a8dcc598fa84dcf9f14637647b4cb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200516/4aff42af8893fb78c17114d7915fdf2d.jpg

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[Jakegsxr11]

Good side vs bad sidehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200516/01f24de6b97702a09a7d3c3fa3222dfe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200516/cff11f5063cd985c513f8909fe87dddf.jpg

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[Brandon++S]

I had to put a dent in one of mine to clear steering shaft.

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[JOATMON]

I like the looks of the black painted intake with the black valve covers, it's sharp. The injectors stand out too, are they stainless? If so, what brand are they?
Nolan

[Fastbird]

That thing is clean enough to eat off of.

The headers.....that's a shame. I don't think you could dent that primary enough to get acceptable clearance. Are you in contact with the vendor about the headers? Considering any other options?

[Jakegsxr11]

I like the looks of the black painted intake with the black valve covers, it's sharp. The injectors stand out too, are they stainless? If so, what brand are they?
Nolan

Thanks. The injector bodies are stainless, they are Trick Flow TFS 36#.

I beat the crap out of the #1 primary with a sledge hammer, it flattened it out pretty good. I also pulled the primary in about an 1/8" with the vise. Then I had to lengthen the steering shaft an 1/8" by pulling out the splined section some. I used a side cutting end mill on the steering column shaft to elongate the bolt hole to move the steering shaft down a little further. I had to dent the #2 primary for the steering shaft down lower closer to the rack. I can now assemble the steering shaft and turn it with no touching, there is maybe an 1/8" clearance. Lastly I had to do some grinding on the torque arm mount on the transmission to create some clearance for the Y pipe. I definitely would not buy these headers and Y again but after everything I think they are going to be okay. I did contact the vendor, he said they are supposed to be that way and I can return them if I want but I think that ship has sailed.

[JOATMON]

Thanks Jake. FWIW I have Hooker long tubes on my '97. They fit perfect with no BFH required. There is one tube on the drivers side that has a removable section to get you around the steering shaft. The steering shaft runs through the headers. I might have a photo, but I'd have to hunt it down.
Nolan

[JOATMON]

Found some photos. The #1 tube is the removable part. 394263942739428

[Jakegsxr11]

Wow, those headers are pretty cool. I also like the alternator, did you polish it yourself?

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[JOATMON]

Yep, I tore that alternator down, rebuilt it, painted the stator core red, polished the case and painted the fan and pulley black. I kept having problems with the internal regulator dropping out when hot. After replacing it twice I just got tired of the hassle and bought a brand new AC Delco alternator. It has worked flawless so I might treat it to a polish job when I don't have anything else to do.

[SSlowBoat]

Thanks. The injector bodies are stainless, they are Trick Flow TFS 36#.

I beat the crap out of the #1 primary with a sledge hammer, it flattened it out pretty good. I also pulled the primary in about an 1/8" with the vise. Then I had to lengthen the steering shaft an 1/8" by pulling out the splined section some. I used a side cutting end mill on the steering column shaft to elongate the bolt hole to move the steering shaft down a little further. I had to dent the #2 primary for the steering shaft down lower closer to the rack. I can now assemble the steering shaft and turn it with no touching, there is maybe an 1/8" clearance. Lastly I had to do some grinding on the torque arm mount on the transmission to create some clearance for the Y pipe. I definitely would not buy these headers and Y again but after everything I think they are going to be okay. I did contact the vendor, he said they are supposed to be that way and I can return them if I want but I think that ship has sailed.

keep an eye on those tfs injectors. they are just jet injectors rebranded, same as the accel injectors and another brand. we had a problem where 3 of them out of the box were not fully closing and pissing fuel past at stock pressure. summit sent us another set and a similiar issue occured with only 1 of them.

otherwise car looks good

[Jakegsxr11]

I rerouted the fuel and rear brake lines today, they were to close to the y pipe. Does any one have a suggestion to remedy the y touching the front of the torque arm. It just barely touches it. There are so many torque arm mounts and crossmember options and none of their descriptions are very good. I'd like to keep the stock torque arm to keep costs down. It's there a simple mount/crossmember that might get it to clear the exhaust? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/535bd144d5dae40565b441ebf841ae7d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/b77865e22941c5b887f84c9567bfb186.jpg

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[Injuneer]

Just remember, on accel, the torque arm moves upwards in the front mount, to the extent it tries to lift the trans off the trans mount. On hard decel, the torque arm moves downward, within the limits of the rubber bushing in the front mount, and any possible compression in the trans mount. At best, you might get some noise if the TA drops enough to hit the Y-pipe. At worst it might cause a dent.

Poly TA bushing and poly trans mount might help minimize the amount of up and down movement.

Just a thought.

[Jakegsxr11]

I already have a poly trans mount installed. I'm not worried about a dent but I'm sure that would happen as it's already slightly touching. I really don't want it to clunk or rattle.

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[Injuneer]

Change the torque arm mount bushing to poly as well. The stock piece is typically dry rotted in a 25 year old car.

[SSlowBoat]

I already have a poly trans mount installed. I'm not worried about a dent but I'm sure that would happen as it's already slightly touching. I really don't want it to clunk or rattle.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalkuse a piece of wood and jack the y pipe up against it to "clearance" it.

for relocation crossmembers and torque arms i always run umi. never had a fit issue

as for the xs headers, we actually had a set on the procharged car, and they always hit the steering shaft no matter what, y pipe never fit right, flange was warped on the drivers side out of the box, ended up getting rid of them and buying summit headers which are pacesetters and have no issues now

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[Jakegsxr11]

Okay, I got the car started today. It ran for a couple of minutes and then popped a code 16 and 42 and died. Does anyone know where to get an opti of decent quality?

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[Injuneer]

This is the only product I have not seen a negative report about.

https://petrisenterprises.com/

What's on there now? Have you tried to restart? There is someone who repairs the optical modules, and seems to be getting positive feedback. I'll see if I can find the link.

[Injuneer]

I've seen this reference on CZ28.com with no negative info posted.

https://www.ebay.com/str/OptiDoctor?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

I have no personal experience with either of the above. Mostly based on posts on CamaroZ28.com which I've been moderating for 20+ years.

[Jakegsxr11]

I did find a reman ac Delco unit for $285 with a $75 core. I'll try that first. I did try to restart but it seems like there is no spark. I already checked the harness and that was good. I had replaced the cap and rotor during my rebuild and cleaned some oil from out of the optical side. I'm wishing I never touched it.

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[Jakegsxr11]

I also broke the clutch slave cylinder casing. I bolted it on, pressed the clutch pedal too hard, it was solid and then went to the floor. I found the fork slightly pulled out and jammed towards the front. It's there a trick to get the fork engaged properly? I was pretty sure it was in correctly but it obviously was not.

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[Jakegsxr11]

Well, you can officially put me on the jump to the opti bandwagon. I pulled the opti off today, I found the dowel pin sucked into the cam with 0.500" extended. That's not how I installed it but I thought it was tight enough for the red loctite to not let it move in more. It obviously did move.

[Jakegsxr11]

I started the car after putting in a longer dowel. It started perfect. I then reinstalled the water pump and fans and radiator and it won't start again. [emoji17]

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[Jakegsxr11]

Ripped it all back apart, pulled the radiator, water pump, and fans. Checked the opti and cam pin. The cam pin is at 0.600" and has good engagement with the opti and is driven in the cam all the way I originally set it at 0.615", any longer and the opti didn't want to sit on the timing cover flush. The car starts and seems to run fine without the water pump and radiator in it? Should I put it back together again or wait for my reman opti to arrive?

[Injuneer]

Shoebox shows the stock dowel pin as ~0.650”. Not a lot of difference.

http://shbox.com/ci/ci289.jpg

When it’s cranking with the WP in place, is there any spark? Does it at least sound like there's an occasional cylinder firing?

[Jakegsxr11]

I realize shbox said .650 for the dowel, the opti would not sit flat at that length. I believe .620-.685 is the spec but . 615 is as long as possible here. There is no signs of life when cranking. I do have no start data logs recorded. Is there a place I can look in the logs to see opti references or Injector firing data? I do show rpm when cranking. I assume that's coming from the low reference pulse of the opti please correct me if I'm wrong.

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[Injuneer]

If you can upload the .csv data log file here, I should be able to download it and review it. If not, I can give you my email address.

If you have RPM, you have a low res signal from the Opti. There should also be rational values in the injector pulse width columns. Look at the coolant temp to see if the reading is rational. Coolant temp sensor is 2-wire, so it should produce similar results whether the water pump is bolted on or not. If you have the coolant temp sensor unplugged, it may show -40*F in the data log. Same with the inlet air temp sensor. Look at the battery voltage column to see if, when cranking, the battery is too weak to run the engine controls.

[Jakegsxr11]

I'll upload a log a little later. I started it this morning with out the water pump and it started and ran great, all sensors are plugged in every time except the MAF. I reinstalled the pump, radiator, and fans and no start again....

[Jakegsxr11]

I cannot figure out how to export the EEhack file to csv.

Ok, I think I figured it out. Please let me know if they are not correct or you cannot access them.

The first link is a start and run without water pump radiator or fans. EEhack log

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12bYY0xcayhRzkG2rZw2ENqPFksaCnudB/view?usp=sharing,%20https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JSs1NCwmRJzLtBd4bvoC7jVyf97DUkg7/view?usp=sharing

The next one is no start with everything assembled. EEhack log

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JSs1NCwmRJzLtBd4bvoC7jVyf97DUkg7/view?usp=sharing

[Injuneer]

I didn’t realize you were using EEHack. The files I have received from EEHack users seem almost impossible to organize.... hundreds of columns, with a column for each DTC for example. I avoid those if possible. And I have no idea how to produce a .csv file from EEHack. But it is possible because I have been sent a couple.

I really don’t use any specific LT1 scanning software myself, because my engine is run using an aftermarket MoTeC engine management system, with built-in data logging capabilities. Haven’t touched my stock PCM in 20 years, although it still feeds the speedometer and the IAC Motor, because it can't handle the GM stepper type motor (newer MoTeC models can though).

If you can figure out how to produce the file, I'll give it a try. Maybe what has been sent to me before wasn’t set up right by the owners.

[SSlowBoat]

I cannot figure out how to export the EEhack file to csv.

Ok, I think I figured it out. Please let me know if they are not correct or you cannot access them.

The first link is a start and run without water pump radiator or fans.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12bYY0xcayhRzkG2rZw2ENqPFksaCnudB/view?usp=sharing,%20https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JSs1NCwmRJzLtBd4bvoC7jVyf97DUkg7/view?usp=sharing

The next one is no start with everything assembled.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JSs1NCwmRJzLtBd4bvoC7jVyf97DUkg7/view?usp=sharingdownload scan9495 which is free, take a log, and send it to me. eehack sucks

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[Injuneer]

download scan9495 which is free, take a log, and send it to me. eehack sucks




Glad I'm not the only one who feels that way.....

[SSlowBoat]

Glad I'm not the only one who feels that way.....as someone who should go 24x but continues to use obd1 pcm's, i understand the difficulty.

datamaster was my go to, now thats not supported. eehack i always had problems with. i strongly support scan9495, it really works great, garydoug put alot of time and listened to us about what we did and didnt like.

i generally log in both scan9495 and datamaster, incase i have to have others look at something that i am unsure of. i havw tried tunercats rt as well and didnt like it.

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[Injuneer]

I go all the way back to Rinda Technologies’ “Diacom”, a DOS scanning program. First exposer to scanning. DataMaster was pretty good, although setting up the report for export seemed awkward. Also liked AutoTap for OBD-2. Not sure why they gave it up. I've convinced a lot of people on CamaroZ28.com to use Scan9495, and Gary is always there within a day or so to help people with setup and comm port problems. We've formed a solid internet friendship as a result.... two crazy engineers, one mechanical and one electrical.

[Jakegsxr11]

Ok, I cannot find the log file from scan9495. I see it saves it to c:/windows/system32 and I can open a log file from scan9495 from that location but when I look there in file explorer it isn't there?

[SSlowBoat]

Ok, I cannot find the log file from scan9495. I see it saves it to c:/windows/system32 and I can open a log file from scan9495 from that location but when I look there in file explorer it isn't there?sure you are viewing all files in file explorer? its definitely there. or change the file path to save to desktop. i have all mine save to "tune logs" folder on my desktop

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[Jakegsxr11]

Ok the log issue was just an 1D10T error. Here's a link to the log. I know my battery is getting weak and the MAF isn't plugged in.

Scan9495 log - no start water pump and radiator installed.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tPURr_jAkIAF77-NHQefbMJBsZpZ8-_g/view?usp=sharing

Original link wasn't correct.

[SSlowBoat]

Ok the log issue was just an 1D10T error. Here's a link to the log. I know my battery is getting weak and the MAF isn't plugged in.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JSs1NCwmRJzLtBd4bvoC7jVyf97DUkg7/view?usp=sharingill look at it later tonight. just to clarify, what all is UNplugged with it running in this log?

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[Jakegsxr11]

That link wasn't correct, the one in you quoted reply was a no start from EEhack. I changed the earlier post with the correct link from Scan9495.

[Jakegsxr11]

The only component unplugged in the scans is the MAF and the low coolant sensor

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[SSlowBoat]

The only component unplugged in the scans is the MAF and the low coolant sensor

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalkwhat about the regular coolant sensor in waterpump?

if maf is unplugged it defaults to speed density. if maf is whacked bad it should still run, albeit crappy initially

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[Jakegsxr11]

The coolant sensor in the water pump was plugged in every time, even with the water pump not installed.

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[Injuneer]

Not running, but apparent when it's cranking. You've got RPM, you've got cold start elevated injector pulse widths. You battery voltage is low, sometimes dipping to 8 volts when it's cranking. Can affect the ability to start. MAF code shown, we know why. Closed throttle TPS volts are high (0.93V) but shouldn’t prevent starting. Coolant and intake air temps are rational at 64/65°F.

It started, ran OK after you corrected the dowel pin problem, without water pump. Did you reinstall the WP after that, then try (and fail) to start it again?

I can’t see anything connected to the fans or the radiator preventing it from starting. Are you maintaining the various ground wires that attach to the upper radiator cross-brace?

Still puzzled on my end.

Why not attach the intake elbow to the throttle body, plug in the MAF and try?

[Jakegsxr11]

Ok, battery is now charged. Same symptom with the MAF and intake hooked up or not. It started and ran after correcting the dowel pin, no water pump installed. I reinstalled water pump and no start. I tore it all back down including removing the opti to check the dowel. It was still good, reinstalled opti and it started and ran 3 separate starts including one the next day. Reinstalled water pump and radiator and no start. I have not touched either ground on either side of the radiator cross brace.

I did this testing also:

ICM Harness

A = 11.57 vdc
B = 1.4-1.6 vac cranking
C = ~ 0 ohms to ground with key OFF
D = 11.57 vdc


At the end of the optispark harness (disconnected from the opti) with the key ON, you should see:

Optispark Harness

A = 5 vdc
B = 5 vdc
C = 11.57
D = 0.0 ohms ground with key OFF

Coil
8000 ohms across all terminals

Random intermittent flashing on my inductive timing light hooked to coil wire, 80% light on, this isn't good but I would still expect some signs of firing, there are none and it runs fine without the water pump installed. I only got 1 flash with the light hooked to #1 plug wire, even worse, this explains why there is no sign of fire but not why it starts without the water pump.

[Jakegsxr11]

Ok, It was finally dark and my wife was home to crank the engine over while I watched the engine in the dark. I'm assuming I should not see any sparking from the optispark but there is definitely blue flashing going on from the optispark when trying to start, I'm guessing it's grounding to the water pump (since it will run without it) but you all know how visible that is. Any ideas? I can't come up with anything as to why I'm seeing this or what could be grounding back there. The spark plug wires are new and so is the opti cap. I tried the old coil wire at one point and still no start but didn't check for arcing with it. Maybe the cap has a small crack in it?

[Injuneer]

If the Opti is arcing to the water pump, the problem is in the high voltage section - cap, wires. Appears the optical portion is doing it's thing. Do you have an old/spare Opti with a good cap? What's the condition of the wires and wire terminals - any cracks, corrosion on wires or terminals?

And a crack or breakdown of the epoxy covering the high voltage conductor embedded in the cap can cause the problem as well.

[Jakegsxr11]

Wires are brand new, I'll put the original cap back on and try it again tomorrow.

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[Jakegsxr11]

Well I had the opti with the old cap and rotor ready to go on, while putting on the vacuum line just before mounting it to the timing cover, I dropped it and broke 1/2 the plug housing and one of the cap mounting ears. The rotor is rubbing on something when spinning, probably because the cap can't tighten evenly with the 10:00 mounting tab broke off.

So would you guys send the old broken distributor housing back for the $75 core? It has the good mitsubishi sensor in it, should I just keep it?

[Jakegsxr11]

Well the reman Delco opti fell through. I got a cheap $50 opti from Amazon, installed my mitsubishi sensor in it, the reference wheel had less runout than my stock wheel, the bearing was much tighter, sealed and put loctite on the screws. The car now runs great, and with the water pump on! It's pretty sad the generic cap and rotor are better than the MSD. I have not even heard back from MSD tech support via email and after waiting on hold for 15 minutes they hung up on me again (4th time now). I might just get a petris for a back up. Any how hers a quick video:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DhED5BTToAQe3ZNL9

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[SSlowBoat]

Well the reman Delco opti fell through. I got a cheap $50 opti from Amazon, installed my mitsubishi sensor in it, the reference wheel had less runout than my stock wheel, the bearing was much tighter, sealed and put loctite on the screws. The car now runs great, and with the water pump on! It's pretty sad the generic cap and rotor are better than the MSD. I have not even heard back from MSD tech support via email and after waiting on hold for 15 minutes they hung up on me again (4th time now). I might just get a petris for a back up. Any how hers a quick video:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DhED5BTToAQe3ZNL9

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalkpetris is hit or miss as of late. i have a amazon 79.99 special on my le2 motor that worked great. currently have the 49.99 one on the way for the bird

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[Jakegsxr11]

I got the 49.99 one, I think it's mostplus.

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[SSlowBoat]

I got the 49.99 one, I think it's mostplus.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalkyep with the red/black cap LOL atleast i know it works now.

by the way, msd screwed me on rebuilding my opti, it never worked right again.

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[Jakegsxr11]

The car seems to be running well. I got the alignment done and the a/c charged.

The 14point7 wideband O2 is causing electrical interference with the radio so I'm going to wire a capacitor bank between the + and - of the heater circuit.

The Koni on car adjustable rear shocks came in and I'll get them installed next week. So far it handles much better with the front shocks and 4 springs.

I was hoping for closer to - 1.0 camber but the way it sits now both caster adjustments are maxxed out opposite of each other and that's the most camber possible while still matching both sides with similar specs.

The spec 2+ clutch is still breaking in so I have not really tested the engines power but it seems really strong. I really like the clutch, slightly more grabby than stock but it could easily be mistaken for a stock unit.

I also don't notice hardly any drivetrain vibration, no more than stock. I was worried about that with the poly motor mounts, transmission mount and torque arm mount. I'm happy I went to them.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200617/0aa96083ca2b4fa7ef95bd833cb696bc.jpg

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[SSlowBoat]

The car seems to be running well. I got the alignment done and the a/c charged.

The 14point7 wideband O2 is causing electrical interference with the radio so I'm going to wire a capacitor bank between the + and - of the heater circuit.

The Koni on car adjustable rear shocks came in and I'll get them installed next week. So far it handles much better with the front shocks and 4 springs.

I was hoping for closer to - 1.0 camber but the way it sits now both caster adjustments are maxxed out opposite of each other and that's the most camber possible while still matching both sides with similar specs.

The spec 2+ clutch is still breaking in so I have not really tested the engines power but it seems really strong. I really like the clutch, slightly more grabby than stock but it could easily be mistaken for a stock unit.

I also don't notice hardly any drivetrain vibration, no more than stock. I was worried about that with the poly motor mounts, transmission mount and torque arm mount. I'm happy I went to them.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200617/0aa96083ca2b4fa7ef95bd833cb696bc.jpg

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thats surprising you couldnt get atleast a degree negative, i got a degree negative on stock arms.

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