LT1/T56 Into a 1957 Chevrolet Pick Up

[JOATMON]

I've been having this project sidelined for a while but recently decided to do more during the stay at home order due to the virus.
I've worked on a driveline upgrade in spurts for well over 10 yrs. I suppose I'll finish it sooner or later.
Thought ya'll might enjoy seeing and reading the details.
Nolan

[JOATMON]

The truck;

[JOATMON]

The truck;
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Anybody know what makes my pics come out sideways?

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I'm gonna go back to the beginning and try to give photo descriptions.
Test fitting of the engine for fabricating engine mounts and transmission crossmember;
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Had to notch out the original transmission crossmember to fit that big t56 bell housing in. I welded a contured plate in to fit. I built some side mounts biscuit style, they use shock mounting bushings. Then a built a transmission crossmember that uses a stock T56 Camaro mount.

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Cleaned up and painted the engine compartment, then started laying out the wiring harness and test fitting the steering column. I'm using the column from a '97 Camaro as well as the harness.
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This pic shows where the shifter needed to come up, which was under the bench seat and right where a structural rib is in the floor. At the time I started figuring I would have to go to bucket seats. The red X is where the shifter needed to be.39345

[JOATMON]

About this point I got side tracked on a boat project AND I bought the '97 SS. Poor truck got neglected again while I worked on the Camaro. I wound up getting the truck back in the shop and did more work on it. Then I had major valvetrain issues with the Camaro and did a top end rebuild on it. I finally decided to work on one project at a time until completed or I would never finish anything.

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Here's a spurt of work completed. Pulled the entire front suspension out. I rebuilt with new kingpins and bushings, new lowering springs and shackle bushings. Teardown;
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I wanted to keep the straight axle suspension and alot of other things about the truck more retro versus completely modernizing it. But I did it in a way that will stop and steer much better.Disc brakes and power rack and pinion steering 3935139352

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And front and rear sway bars.39353

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The plate brackets you se in the previous photo were made wrong by the company I bought them from. Somebody got his center to center measurements wrong. So I made my own out of 1/2" T6061 aluminum plate.39354

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you can see them mounted here39356

[Cathead]

Really good work! It looks great

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[JOATMON]

Thanks Cathead, I was beginning to wonder if I was just talking to myself. May be.

[JOATMON]

I was able to get the steering column from the car that the engine/trans was in.
I modified it a bit to fit the original '57 steering wheel, that may change thought.
The column was too long to allow the correct angle on the steering shaft u-joints so I had to do an amputation.39357

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Cut off about 6" from the column and shaft and cut new slots and grooves to retain the original bearing.
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Made a new base for the column
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Trying to find all the steering photos, here's one of the telescoping steering shaft. It will have to travel with the straight axle over bumps. There was a problem in this photo with the u-joint phasing because they were two different brands. I had to order another u-joint.39362

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The telescoping shaft will come back apart so I can put a accordian boot on to retain the lubricant.

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Ok I'll be back.

[JOATMON]

Ok now I'm up to current work. If you look at post #11 you can see a square cover on top the transmission. I found a kit to relocate the shifter to that position. This way I can use a bench seat. I've torn the transmission apart and got the shift shaft out. I did the modifications to it and now I'm starting to put it back together. Photos coming.

[JOATMON]

Sorry photo difficulty

[harner]

Looking forward to some pics!

[SSlowBoat]

this is awesome man!

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[JOATMON]

Windows 10 sucks. It wants to sync to my phone thru ITunes to upload photos, which only works when it wants to. I wish there was a better way to do it. I may switch back to Windows 8 because I don't recall having any problems getting the photos off my phone. And windows 10 has alot of other glitches GRRRRRRRRR

[JOATMON]

Naturally, The shift shaft I need to modify is the last part to come out. The patient;
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Shifter, shifter boss and tailshaft housing off first. I was careful to keep my parts in order of removal. But I also printed a T56 manual to follow as a guide when I realized how deep I was gonna have to go in to it.
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I put together a homemade puller using scrap stuff from my metal rack. Can't remember what these two clamps came off of but they made great puller jaws. You have to pull the VSS reluctor and the 5/6 driven gear. They are a tight spline fit so it doesn't take much pressure to pull them.
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Short bolts for reluctor, long for 5/6 gear

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The reverse driven gear is removed beforehand by just removing snap rings(got ahead of myself). Same with the reverse/5/6 drive gears and the shift fork assembly for them.

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When you get to this point you have to knock out the roll pins for the skip shift lever and the front offset shift lever. Take the shift detent assembly out(screwed in the side).
You're ready to pull the center case but there is another detent ball and spring under the front offset shift lever that follows the shift guide plate. The ball and spring WILL just fall out, so be ready for them.39378

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The skip shift lever will be deleted and the front offset shift lever will be replaced with the new shifter boss. This is what you see with the center case removed;
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This transmission only has 23,000 miles on it. It is absolutely perfect inside, no wear showing on anything.
I just realized I skipped the removal of the shift fork guide bolts before you can remove the center case. The are T40 headed and you have to heat them up to get the loctite to melt a bit. Didn't have a photo of this.

[JOATMON]

Next out is the 5/6/reverse shift rail, the 1-4 countershaft(you have to lift up the mainshaft enough to get it out), then the mainshaft with the 1-4 shift fork assembly. Make sure to hold on to the 4th blocker ring and lift it as one assembly.
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And I finally got the part I needed out, the 1-4 shift shaft3938539386

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I didn't see the need to take the shift forks off so I tie-wired them in place and covered them with a plastic bag while I did the shaft modifications.

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The new shifter kit. 3/16" solid carbide drill bit not included, bought it from Graingers, bout $20.00 w/tax.
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Here's the new shifter boss slipped on the shaft. The bottom hole is pinned in place, then you have to drill the top hole and pin it, then cut out the middle section.
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Had to edit this because my pic showed up upside down?

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I didn't get photos when I drilled the shaft and boss. The shaft is surface hardened, thats why you need a solid carbide bit. I aligned and squared it up in my machinist vise on my drill press. It drilled through great then disaster struck, as the bit went through the second side of the hardened shaft the tip broke and shook the hell out of the press.

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When I shut the drill press switch off all you ccould hear was my fan running and my teeth grinding. But when I looked all was well, the bit went through. I calmed down UNTIL I started to put the roll pin in and discovered the hole was too big. When that bit broke the shutter in the drill press was the hole being wallowed out by the broken bit tip.

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At this point I started slamming cold beers to calm my nnnnnnerves. After using drill bits from my index to get an approximate measurement on the hole, it appeared I was gonna need to go up to a 7/32" hole and order a 7/32" carbide bit and a 7/32" roll pin(gotta buy a bag of 50 to get one). Shut it down for the night and studied on it the next day. By shear luck (and being some what of a hoarder) I dug around in my small hardware drawers and found a roll pin that appeared it would work without a redrill. I don't know where I got it but it measures out on a mic as about a 5mm. PERFECT interference fit in my oversized hole. Sometimes the Good Lord looks out for a dumbass.

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Shaft section cut out with a cutoff wheel, ground with a mini flapper wheel and contured with a burring bit.

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I finally got the transmission back together. There were a few assembly areas that are kinda tricky. But eventually I figured out what I was doing wrong.39400

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How ya'll like my temporary shifter stick? LOL39401
In this photo you can see both shifters installed. Nice thing about this setup is it can be converted back to the rear shifter position easily(Just take the front shifter out and put the rear in)

[SSlowBoat]

How ya'll like my temporary shifter stick? LOL39401
In this photo you can see both shifters installed. Nice thing about this setup is it can be converted back to the rear shifter position easily(Just take the front shifter out and put the rear in)looks good man

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[JOATMON]

With the shifter protective boot installed39402

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I pulled the bell housing and clutch, glad I did because even though this engine/trans only had 23,000 miles on it, the clutch disc is toast.39403

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The flywheel and pressure plate friction surfaces were cruddy just from sitting so many years. I don't see any blueing or damage to either so far. Gonna clean the surfaces up and check closely, I'm thinking maybe just putting a better clutch disc in with the stock pressure plate.39404

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More progress. After close inspection I found the flywheel, pressure plate and disc had to be replaced.3944639447394483944939450

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Got the radiator, AC condensor and fans in. I'm attempting to use all F-body parts so replacement will be easy in the future. Had to fabricate a mounting system to make it a bolt in assembly.3945239453394543945539456

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I had forgotten that I robbed the steam tube and hardware off this engine to use on my Camaro. I started digging in my parts bins and found enough fittings to build a new setup. Thick wall refrigeration tubing and brass gyrolock fittings. I ran a 1/4" NPT tap into the holes to get a bit of taper in the threads. 39457

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Spent some time repairing cut and burnt wiring before the install. Found a C100 compatible replacement pigtail, it was totally missing having been chopped off the harness. The part of the harness thaat goes through the firewall had been cut but I was able to splice it together because I had both ends.3945839459

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Decided to pre-lube the engine because it hasn't ran in so many years. I had lubed the cylinders and turned it periodically while it sat in storage. Had a new pump sprayer that I got free with a round-up purchase, so I adapted a few fittings and hose to it.39460

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Dropped the engine in yesterday. If ya'll remember I had already built the motor mounts and transmission crossmember and test fit it. It went in ok but I was whipped when I finished because I had to stab it by myself. We're still practicing social distancing so I could't get help.394613946239463

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I bolted up my temporary shifter shaft and it looks like my shifter relocation is perfect.39464

[JOATMON]

Not sure why my photos get turned sideways on the upload, anybody know?

[SSlowBoat]

Not sure why my photos get turned sideways on the upload, anybody know?they are all inline/vertical on my phone/tapatalk.

good progress man. i wish i had half the fab skills and patience you have

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[Cathead]

Great work!

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[JOATMON]

Forward progress after some setbacks. I usually try to dedicate an hour or two everyday. I had to send the radiator back, it was missing the 3/4" hose fitting on the bottom driver side. Already had it installed before I realized it. Grrr. Cooling system is almost complete, gonna have to get some fittings to get the temp sending unit off the headers. The headers were a bitch to find, mainly because of the D-ports on the heads. There was one manufacturer who refused to give me any dimensions off their headers, all they would supply was a photo. They DID NOT get any of my money. Finally decided to try a set of Patriot's made for street rod applications, I had to do some tweaking to get the collectors to clear my cross member, but otherwise a nice fit. Got alot of parts ordered, some have arrived in a timely manner, others are delayed for one reason or another.
Bought a used fusebox cover and a PCM bracket off ebay.

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[Cathead]

That truck is really coming along. Looks great!

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[Brandon++S]

Nice work!

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[SSlowBoat]

Forward progress after some setbacks. I usually try to dedicate an hour or two everyday. I had to send the radiator back, it was missing the 3/4" hose fitting on the bottom driver side. Already had it installed before I realized it. Grrr. Cooling system is almost complete, gonna have to get some fittings to get the temp sending unit off the headers. The headers were a bitch to find, mainly because of the D-ports on the heads. There was one manufacturer who refused to give me any dimensions off their headers, all they would supply was a photo. They DID NOT get any of my money. Finally decided to try a set of Patriot's made for street rod applications, I had to do some tweaking to get the collectors to clear my cross member, but otherwise a nice fit. Got alot of parts ordered, some have arrived in a timely manner, others are delayed for one reason or another.
Bought a used fusebox cover and a PCM bracket off ebay.

thats for the optional oil cooler fitting, you can just cap it and cap the fitting at the water pump.....

[JOATMON]

Thanks Slowboat but I've already got it corrected. I just returned the radiator and got the correct one and hooked up the hose like stock.
Nolan

[JOATMON]

Just a update on progress I've made with some photos. Engine compartment is nearly finished. Got the power steering lines done and all the power distribution wiring. Parts are slow to come in with the virus reducing manpower. Got a temporary exhaust system built, had to cut out the original tailpipes because the new rear fuel tank will be sitting there.
Fuel tank is delayed because of supplier problems I suppose virus related. O2 sensor extension cables done and one side I had to splice.

[JOATMON]

I pulled the seat and original fuel tank out of the cab and currently putting in a firewall blanket. Got part of the wiring cleaned up on the passenger side, removing stuff I won't need. I'll move to the drivers side next. Got a new accelerator pedal and a Lokar cut to fit throttle cable. Gonna use an OEM style brake light switch mounted on the clutch pedal along with some relay wiring to accomplish all the clutch pedal switch functions. Got a new modern style dual chamber master cylinder to replace the oringinal single chamber cylinder. Still have to build a hydraulic clutch setup under the truck so I'm gonna do all that at one time while I'm under the truck.

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Finally bought an air conditioner for my shop, we've been having heat index days between 110-116 degrees.39528

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Painted a spare set of valve covers, the ones on the engine are beat up bad. Gotta put a couple more coats of paint to get a gloss. I swear it's so hot the paint was drying in mid air before it hit the surface.39537

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Figured it was time to update this thread. Finally got the fuel system done after waiting 62 days for the tank to come in.

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Got all the electrical done under the hood and started finding everything I needed to hook up under the dash. Sat the Camaro instrument cluster temporarily to use for test fire. Check out the low miles on this engine.

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Ran all high pressure rubber lines with AN fittings including the vapor recovery line. Bought a new Camaro vapor recovery tank and mounted it under the p/u bed. got the
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First test fire was a dud. After doing some testing I determined that all the injectors were stuck. Pulled the fuel rails and injectors and did a DIY flush on them. Fill the tube with B12 Chemtool, pump up some pressure and pusle 12 volts to the injector using a remote starter switch. Got alot of dried up fuel crud out of them. A few were so stuck I had to tap on them to break them loose. Put everything back together and got it running. Got a dead miss on #7 and a partial miss on #2. Spark checks good so I believe those two injectors are still cruddy. I'm gonna flush them again using higher pressure before I break down and buy a new set.

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I'll post a video after I get it hitting on all 8 cylinders. Engine runs good, no smoke, no knocks and great oil pressure.

[SSlowBoat]

great success!!! nice trick on the injectors, ill keep that one for the archives of mildly sketchy diy for when i need it one day lol

[JOATMON]

Thanks, But these injectors are toasted. Apparently when you leave an injector full of ethanol gas for nearly 20 yrs. they get corroded so bad you can't save them. I tried them after the first flush and found that when they are pulsing fast on the running engine, they start sticking. I tried a second flush but got the same results. I ordered a new set of Chinese Rochester knock-offs real cheap. Wish me luck! LOL

[JOATMON]

The new injectors didn't help with the multiple cylinder misfire. So I decided to re-work the ignition system, remember this stuff sat up for many years. Got new plug wires, dist. cap, rotor and a fresh set of plugs. I also got a new water pump and new pancake cooling fans.
When I tore it all down I believe I found the misfire culprit, a bad coil wire connection! Oh well, I'm going all new. Including a zoom photo of the coil wire connector. My wife's '94 had the same issue at about 30 something thousand miles. I had the dealer fix it under warranty.
I had a severe space issue using the stock cooling fans so I figured I'd knock it all out at one time. I've been cramped for time lately so I've just been trying to do a little bit at a time. Here's some photos of the new fans. I had to fabricate some offset brackets to hang them in the factory radiator slots.

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Well crap, the latest photos I took are coming out in an HEIC format which won't upload to LTX. It must have something to do with the latest update I recently did on my phone. When I figure it out I'll post some photos?????????????

[JOATMON]

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[SSlowBoat]

Looks good man, great progress

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[JOATMON]

It's alive and well. Running great now. I'm including photos of the extra clearance I gained with the pancake fans.3972139720

[JOATMON]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yn3u35mJU_M

A good ear may hear the alternator bearings whining, GRRRR

[JOATMON]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIOk-v2dDx4

I started to shove a bigger cam in it, but decided to run the stocker. Should easily make 300HP which is plenty for an old leaf spring truck.

[JOATMON]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKGqtFICE00
Temporarily tied the headers into the lil skinny 2" glasspacks that were on the truck. They are so rusty that when you rev it rust flies all over the floor from the turndowns. LOL

[JOATMON]

I'm finally getting back to work on the truck. Bought a 8.8 Ford Explorer rear end to put in it. Found a good one with 3.73 gears and posi with 31 spline axles. Whoever let it go to the salvage yard had recently put drilled and slotted rotors on it. Calipers are missing but pretty cheap to buy, gonna need brake hoses and parking brake cables along with new PB shoes and brake pads. It currently has a truck 12 bolt in it, but it has 3.08 gears and no posi and drum brakes. I figured I'd come out saving alot of money starting with a decent 8.8 vs. upgrading the 12 bolt. Got the 8.8 for $368.00 delivered.
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Cut off the original Ford perches and ground smooth.
Returned the first set of perches I bought because they were too short. The new ones I ordered are nearly double the length (4" vs. 7 3/4")
They call them anti-wrap perches, may eliminate the need for traction bars.
I had to cut them to fit the big 3 1/4" tubes on the 8.8.

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Out with the old 12 bolt.

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The vertical perches are where the stock sway bar mounted. I have an aftermarket rear sway bar I bought, designed to clamp mount on the top of the axle tubes. After some quick measuring, I think I can mount it on the Ford perches and just increase the length of the end links up to the frame.

[JOATMON]

I borrowed a set of 14" trailer wheels(Ford 4 1/2" bolt pattern) to roll it under the truck and do the initial spring perch alignment.
Just doing some quick measuring, I "think" a 2" thick 4 1/2" to 4 3/4" wheel adapter may get the back wheels centered in the fender wells without having to special order shallow back spacing on the new wheels.

[JOATMON]

I ordered new shackles and bushings with the intention of using the original springs. They seemed to be in pretty good shape but when I pulled the driver side it was worn worse that the pass. side. I decided to buy new springs after reminding myself they were 66 yrs. old. Always something aggravating.... had to remove the bed steps to get access to the front spring pin.40444404454044640447

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I've go so many projects going on, both business and hobby, that all I can accomplish is small bites of the elephant. We've been having a serious heat wave with temps close to 100 and heat index temps in the hundred and teens. So I've been having to pace myself. Besides that I'm old and slow LOL.
Got the new springs in, had to do a bit of fitting on the bushings.

[JOATMON]

Cutting the spring perches and the lower clamp/shock mount out to 3 1/4" turned out to be very tedious. I probably should have just brought them to a machine shop and had them do it.
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The last picture came out upside down for some strange reason. The plan is to align the rear end up on the springs then lightly clamp to the springs. Then set the truck weight down on the springs and roll the pinion angle up to about 2-3 degrees, then tack weld the spring perches. Then I'll take it back apart and fully weld in the perches.

[JOATMON]

After seeing SNMercy doing a string alignment on his car, I got to thinking. Maybe when I think I've got the rear end squared up on the springs, I'll check the alignment with the front axle and adjust accordingly. It's an old truck, who knows if the frame is perfectly square.