Hatch won't open with key.

[Formula218]

So I've finally got my POS back on the road but I've run into another minor issue. When I try to open the hatch with the key (only way I have to open it, don't have a lever inside) the key just keeps turning and does not release the hatch.

I assume i'm going to have to replace the lock cylinder, but how can I get it open in the mean time? The car is gutted so I think i'll be able to wobble my fat ass back there to mess with it, but what do i need to do to it?

I don't really need it to have a key, if there would be an easy way to just put a popper on it so i just have to hit a button to open it.

[Stormyweather]

You don't have a hatch release button on the lower left of the dash ?

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[Formula218]

I do not.

My car was previously a shops auto-x car, so it was gutted when I got it. It has the dash itself but everything under it was removed I don't even think I have the wiring that went to it so I could just plug a button into it. I was searching online to see if they came with a button and it looks like it was on the panel that goes under the steering wheel?

[Stormyweather]

Yes to the left of the wheel

[Stormyweather]

[Stormyweather]

There is a link to service manual I posted awhile back for someone having issues with the yellow hatch release button I for some reason cant post it. but you could do a search and find it. There is a page in the pdf file
8a - 135 - 0 of that manual. Hatch release diagnosis

I guess the site is having software issues

[JOATMON]

I guess it really doesn't matter if the dash wiring has been gutted. But I thought I would mention that in my wifes '94 Camaro the hatch release button is inside the glovebox. On my '97 Camaro it is located below the left side of the steering wheel. Not sure if this is the same on the Firebirds though.

[Injuneer]

meissen

Appears Stormyweather is having the same problem posting links.

Plus, when I posted this, the system immediately tried to post it again, and it produced the “the forum requires that you wait 30 seconds......,” error message.

Something is FUBAR.

[Stormyweather]

I didn't know about the Camaro. But yes the button in on the left on my Bird. I was trying to show you the section in the service manual that trouble shoots the hatch release with diagrams that would help you find the wires to ad a button,

[Stormyweather]

[Injuneer]

The hatch latch assembly bolts to a bracket on the rear filler panel with three bolts. There is a motor release mechanism attached in front of the latch assembly. If your car has been gutted, and the carpet in the hatch well removed, the assembly should be fully visible. If they gutted it, maybe they even removed the release motor mechanism to save weight

I'll take a look at the setup in my car later today. I removed the hatch well carpet, so the mechanism is visible. I'll take a picture and see if I can upload it.

The site seems to be having a problem posting anything that has a link embedded in it. meissen is trying to fix it. So I"m not sure if my picture will post, but I'll try.

[Stormyweather]

http://www.mediafire.com/file/24bs9k297tmzdfl/1994-SvcMan-bookmarked.pdf/file

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[Stormyweather]

That worked.

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[Stormyweather]

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=ImmYgTlF&id=72293E337EEBAD01C55A5F93ECFA1518AD738B89&thid=OIP.ImmYgTlFEs1bMU3ki4saxAHaFj&mediaurl=https%3A%2F%2Fls1tech.com%2Fforums%2Fatta chments%2Fgeneral-maintenance-repairs%2F471537d1412368175-4th-gen-trunk-latch-latch2.jpg&exph=720&expw=960&q=1995+firebird+trunk+latch&simid=608041641809479859&selectedindex=228&ajaxhist=0&vt=4&eim=1,2,6&sim=11

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This is what I found. I guess it's f working.

[Injuneer]

The latch on my 94 (totally stock hatch, purchased new in 1994) is not the same. The circled lever does not exist. That may be just a spring to pop the lid up a fraction of an inch when the latch releases.

[Injuneer]

You can open the hatch by twisting the end of the long, flat shaft that comes from the key cylinder, and passes through the larch mechanism, and sticks out about 1" past the mechanism. If you want to remove the latch assembly, the three bolts are 10mm. If you want to try using the battery, apply 12 volts to the black/white attached to pin A of the release motor connector (connector with orange safety tie), and make sure there is a ground at pin B (black wire). The power runs through a relay, so the current draw might by high on the release motor.

[Stormyweather]

It just spins. It might be the rod is missing. My old 67 Caprice trunk lock spun around as well I had to get a small friend to crawl in there with a screwdriver to open it to fix the lock with a new one. They come with that rod or bar.

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[Injuneer]

Unfortunately I would need a very small friend to crawl back there....... something to think about for the future, if I decide to keep the car.

[Stormyweather]

Oh crap yeah. That is a bit of a reach too. Drill out the lock then stick a skinny flat blade screwdriver through the hole in to the latch.

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Or ask Jose to get his slide hammer yank out the lock then use the skinny flat blade driver.

[Formula218]

You guys rock!! thank you so much for all taking time to reply.

I for sure do not have the button. My latch also does not have the plastic piece on the latch shown on yours.

I can get back there pretty easy. Twisting the rod did not pop it, but I was afraid to twist too hard. I did snap a pic so you can all see what I have. Could I just unbolt the latch from the hatch itself? Not sure why I didn't think of that before. Then I think the hatch would open just without the part that hooks into the latch. Then just replace the whole latch and lock cylinder with a new one?

39057

[Stormyweather]

Yes you can. Im pretty sure that flat rod will slide out it may be still connected to the lock. You might have to wiggle it free. If you get what I'm saying. The three bolts on the bottom latch.

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[Injuneer]

Do you see the silver tipped, flat blade sticking out of the bottom of the latch? That is the blade the key cylinder rotates to release the latch. Try turning it with a pliers. That may release the latch. If the hole in the latch is worn, allowing the blade to spin freely, without releasing the latch, try inserting a flat screwdriver along the side of the silver tipped blade, and try rotating the screwdriver.

If that fails, removing the three bolts should free the latch assembly from the sheet metal it mounts to. You may need to pull the latch forward to get it off the silver tipped blade. Then lift the hatch and it should raise with the latch mechanism still attached to the hatch. Then you can figure out how to undo the latch mechanism while standing outside the back of the car.

[Formula218]

Yes you can. Im pretty sure that flat rod will slide out it may be still connected to the lock. You might have to wiggle it free. If you get what I'm saying. The three bolts on the bottom latch.

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Are you saying to pull that rod out a little bit then try turning it? I can try that tonight.

When I tried turning the rod it was definitely still hooked to something. I was afraid that twisting much harder than you would a key that I could mess it up more. I think pulling the whole latch assembly out will make it easier to mess with.


Do you see the silver tipped, flat blade sticking out of the bottom of the latch? That is the blade the key cylinder rotates to release the latch. Try turning it with a pliers. That may release the latch. If the hole in the latch is worn, allowing the blade to spin freely, without releasing the latch, try inserting a flat screwdriver along the side of the silver tipped blade, and try rotating the screwdriver.

If that fails, removing the three bolts should free the latch assembly from the sheet metal it mounts to. You may need to pull the latch forward to get it off the silver tipped blade. Then lift the hatch and it should raise with the latch mechanism still attached to the hatch. Then you can figure out how to undo the latch mechanism while standing outside the back of the car.

I grabbed that by hand and it would not turn. With pliers it would not turn either. I can try really twisting but I definitely twisted harder than you would a key.


The rod seems a little crooked to me, like it's not sticking straight out. I wonder if something hit it causing it to get jammed? From what I remember when it worked you only turn the key 90 or 180 degrees before it unlatches. The key now spins at least 3/4 of the way around before you feel anything, and still doesn't unlatch.

I will unbolt the latch striker from the hatch so I can open the hatch, then worry about getting the latch and key cylinder free. I imagine those parts wouldn't be too bad to find.

[Stormyweather]

Yeah unbolt that sucker then deal with it.

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