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zooguy
11-01-2017, 09:21 PM
I converted my car to carb and got rid of the PCM and wiring harness I'm now running into problems getting the alternator to charge the battery ... I took it off and had it tested three different places alternator is fine how do I get it to charge the battery though. I think it has something to do with the Exciter wire.
A few places people told me to use a 470 Ohm resistor but I'm not sure what to do with that.

SSlowBoat
11-01-2017, 09:23 PM
I converted my car to carb and got rid of the PCM and wiring harness I'm now running into problems getting the alternator to charge the battery ... I took it off and had it tested three different places alternator is fine how do I get it to charge the battery though. I think it has something to do with the Exciter wire.
A few places people told me to use a 470 Ohm resistor but I'm not sure what to do with that.you made another thread, for us to tell you the same thing again. 12v positive to switch to resistor to exciter wire.

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zooguy
11-01-2017, 09:25 PM
The other thread was for me to figure out how to get my voltmeter to function I've got that working now. thanks for your help.

However I now know my problem is not with the voltmeter but the alternator and I know very little about how Electronics work so please forgive me for reaching out for help

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SSlowBoat
11-01-2017, 09:27 PM
The other thread was for me to figure out how to get my voltmeter to function I've got that working now. thanks for your help.

However I now know my problem is not with the voltmeter but the alternator and I know very little about how Electronics work so please forgive me for reaching out for help

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk12v positive to switch, out of switch to resistor, then crimp connector to exciter wire/plug

voltage gauge wired thru a switch, then to the charging wire that runs from battery positive to alternator

that's how both need to be wired.

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GaryDoug
11-01-2017, 09:29 PM
He did tell you how to use it. Connect one end of the resistor to the exciter wire and the other end of the resistor to a switched ignition point.

Injuneer
11-01-2017, 11:37 PM
I posted the factory wiring diagram in the other thread, showing the location of the resistor, and how to incorporate it into the voltage gauge and exciter circuit, but that didn't seem to help.

zooguy
11-02-2017, 12:01 AM
Sorry for wasting your times

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zooguy
11-02-2017, 05:37 PM
Fingers crossedhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171102/c28b536716f1da991c7bc06b353eaf33.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171102/805eb0d7a62475ad3c2f4d3701bfe37c.jpg

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zooguy
11-02-2017, 06:42 PM
Well that didn't work ..... I connected it to the switch for my ignition and ran it straight to the alternator single wire connected to the plug any ideas why it won't work?

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GaryDoug
11-02-2017, 08:47 PM
Try measuring the voltage at the resistor end connected to the alternator. It should have about 12v when the ignition switch is on.

How are you determining that the alternator is not working?

By the way, that looks like good work on the resistor insulation.

zooguy
11-02-2017, 08:49 PM
When I started the car the voltage did not increase from 12.5 volts

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SSlowBoat
11-02-2017, 08:51 PM
When I started the car the voltage did not increase from 12.5 volts

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalkbased on what gauge? check it with a volt meter

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firebird_1995
11-02-2017, 08:53 PM
You need to make sure the socket on the alternator plug isn't spread out so far it won't engage the blade on the alternator. If that's good, move on to grounds. You need a good clean path to ground from the alternator. If its powder coated or the block is painted where the mounting points are, clean them off. Or you can bolt a cable to the alternator directly to frame. What size is your charge cable and where is it ran to?

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zooguy
11-08-2017, 08:56 PM
Fixed .... took it to an alternator shop and had them converted to a single wire alternator

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