Battery relocation hardware

[okst8engineer]

A few years ago I relocated my battery to the spare tire area. I used 2ga welding wire at the advice of my electrical engineering professor and a 175A fuse. I've always noticed once I've driven around some and got things warm then park and go insider store when I come out to start the car it cranks slow. Yesterday when this happened the car started to turn over and then the 175A fuse blew. I sat down and did the equations myself this time and then talked to an electrical engineer at work. We both think I need a 200A fuse. He thinks I needs 000 cable and I think that's overkill. I do feel I should probably upgrade to 0 gauge. What have any of you used?


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[Stormyweather]

Double 0 cable isnt too crazy. If the starter needs 200 amps to turn and the soleloid needs around 18 to engage that well heres a chart. https://www.bluesea.com/articles/1437
If your cable is too small it can develop some heat and not blow. So I say go big and have the fuse right at the battery .



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[1sickta]

I faught that same battle for 10+ years. A few weeks ago my starter gave up the ghost. (Factory starter)

I put a mini starter on it and its working flawless. 95* outside ac on and coolant temp was 210 i shut it off and fired it right back up like it was a cold start.

I would replace the starter. Not saying you need a mini starter but a new one. I also got a starter heat shield wrap.

[okst8engineer]

Thanks for the input guys. I think I will go with larger cable as a winter project.


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[shownomercy]

I fought the heat soak no start for awhile, replaced starter and battery, problem solved.

I have 1/0 AFAIK for battery to starter, alternator to battery and alternator case to ground.

Wiring is never bad to go overkill with.