1.6 rr time

[95LT1Z28]

Ok, im starting to gather info on doing 1.6rr's. What are all the parts I will need. I know the rockers themselves, but I know I need a 3/8 stud kit. How do I install the stud kit? Are the old studs screw in or pressed in? Im also going to go with hardened pushrods, do I need ones that have the hole for the oil or just solid ones? And also would I be good with just SA rockers instead of NSA, I dont really see and advantage of running NSA because You will also need to buy guideplates. Please answer my questions hahaha.

[95maroz28]

the stock studs are screw in. the bottom part of the stud is 7/6th which screws into the head, the top (rocker) can be 3/8th or 7/16th whichever you decide. NSA rockers offer more valvetrain control which is safer for higher rpms 6200+ maybe. for pushrods id get the trickflow or comp 1 piece. guideplates arent too much more.

[95LT1Z28]

Thanks man, but i doubt my car will see over 5400 rpms, would I be ok with SA? And yeah the comp pushrods seem like a nice piece so ill probably get those.

[lt1-xjs]

Thanks man, but i doubt my car will see over 5400 rpms, would I be ok with SA? And yeah the comp pushrods seem like a nice piece so ill probably get those.
You will never get out of the 14's shifting at that rpm.

[95LT1Z28]

Im not really building a drag car, more of just a cruiser and occasional street race.

[HoLLo]

You'll never win races shifting to 5400. Let it wind to 60-6200. It can handle it

[krill]

You dont really need new studs if you are going SA RRs only, IMO. But its nice to upgrade them to some ARPs if your gonna do a cam later on..

[Shon Herron]

Self aligning RRs.
if you go with the NON-SA you need GPs and hardened PRs, i see that as an extra expense of which you do not sound like you need.

The bolt on LT1 had SA 1.6s on it, launched it at 6k with 4.33s, shifted at 6k+ and went thru the top end at what ever it was, over 6k.

[Puck]

I shifted crane gold SA's at 6200 in my stock shortblock H/C build with no problems controlling the valves.

I think the need for NSA's are sometimes exaggerated, especially when many people are not willing to spin past 6k anyway.

[95LT1Z28]

You dont really need new studs if you are going SA RRs only, IMO. But its nice to upgrade them to some ARPs if your gonna do a cam later on..

I thought the studs were metric on lt1s?

[97LT1]

I thought the studs were metric on lt1s?
No. Look at the size listings on the rockers shaft orifice.

The stock stud has a 7/16ths bottom and a 3/8 size upper shaft.

The ARP studs come in stock, but you should really get a 7/16ths stud that is the same on upper portion and lower. This prevents flexing, making your valvetrain/rockers more accurate.

I say buy 7/16 SBC ARP studs, and get 7/16 NSA rockers, guideplates, hardened pushrods. This is a way to ensure you wont be selling anything in the future and be content with your selection.

Either way I would go 7/16 no matter which stye rocker (nsa or SA)

[Shon Herron]

that stuff is not needed, how much spring pressure are you planning on running or how many RPMs you turning.

I will say some people are more plug and play and others do not want to do as much. The 7/16" set up takes more time than the SA 1.6 RRs, ie you have to make sure the GPs do not scrub the PRs.

And do they make SA in 7/16"?

[97LT1]

that stuff is not needed, how much spring pressure are you planning on running or how many RPMs you turning.

I will say some people are more plug and play and others do not want to do as much. The 7/16" set up takes more time than the SA 1.6 RRs, ie you have to make sure the GPs do not scrub the PRs.

And do they make SA in 7/16"?

Good point Shon, it just depends on his future with the vehicle on his decision. If he is like me I like to buy once, but my goals are different im sure.

They might not make a S/A 7/16ths now that you mention it.

[95LT1Z28]

Yeah I am more a buy it once guy. But the car is more a daily driver then a track car. I know it has 4.10s but im going to do more cruising and light to light than an actual strip or track car. Itll probably see at most about 62-6400rpm.

[95LT1Z28]

The cam is going to stay stock for now also, and when i do the rockers I was going to run LT4 springs wth trickflow pushrods.

[Greg Norris]

Good point Shon, it just depends on his future with the vehicle on his decision. If he is like me I like to buy once, but my goals are different im sure.

They might not make a S/A 7/16ths now that you mention it.


crane makes a S/A 7/16ths 1.6 RR. ive got a set.

[meissen]

I say buy 7/16 SBC ARP studs, and get 7/16 NSA rockers, guideplates, hardened pushrods. This is a way to ensure you wont be selling anything in the future and be content with your selection.

Either way I would go 7/16 no matter which stye rocker (nsa or SA)

Agree. That way in the future if you want to upgrade your cam you won't have to sell the parts.

[96LT1SS]

I shift mine right at 6200 and it pulls hard all the way there.

[uncool]

Found these on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-6-7-16-SBC-Stainless-Roller-Rockers-Rocker-Arms_W0QQitemZ370139494457QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotor s_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item37013949445 7&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

Gonna try them myself.

[95LT1Z28]

Uncool, I would go for an aluminum rocker over steel.

[uncool]

I fragged three sets of aluminum RR on my last BBC, never again. Steel or Stainless Steel for me on anything I ever own.

I'll take the slight increase in weight for the piece of mind.

[97ForMuLa]

stupid question, sorry... i see alot of you guys upgrading the roller rockers without upgrading the cam, what does simply upgrading the rr's do, give you more lift...?? sorry i just dont understand. search fails me.

[96lt1m6]

yes it gives a bit more lift but it is really noticable on the top end worth while mod for sure!
i cant tell how much gain i got from them since i did a few mods at the same time and did not do track testing:whistle:
i assure you if you instal 1.6s you will see a gain:D

[95LT1Z28]

Oh i understand why you use the steel ones now man.

[Puck]

Oh i understand why you use the steel ones now man.

Cheaper aluminum rocker arms are not only more prone to failure, but a lot of times are not a perfect fit for LT1 heads and may grind themselves on the springs or chew themselves up. Especially noticable on SA aluminum rr's with thick dual springs.

If everything is properly specced though, and you are using a quality rocker, I see no problem with going aluminum. My crane gold race rr's are aluminum and still looked brand new after a year of DD duty in a H/C build when I peeked into my cantons to top off my oil.
http://ltxtech.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=165&stc=1&d=1233202083

To compare, this is what happened to a cheap knockoff RR when a lifter collapsed. The collapsed lifter caused most of the damage, but when I checked the others they all showed signs of wear after only like two months, and the bodies were slightly touching the springs at max lift.
http://ltxtech.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=166&stc=1&d=1233202278

[97LT1]

Yeah I have ran the crane golds, but the com pro mags seem like they can stand more abuse. They have more weight, but they seem like the rocker body has more strength.

(have not ran them yet however.)


I noticed in the past that the crane golds rubbed against the actual poly lock with my setup. Never got to figure it out before my motor died.

[95LT1Z28]

Yeah I was definitley going to go with either the golds or comp rr's. Has anyone used procomp rockers? I not sure if theyre a knockoff brand, i think theyre from australia?

[PHINES LT1]

i did a little research on the procomp rockers and the price was the only thing really going for them. the aluminum rockers are not self-aligning if thats what you are wanting. the cheapest rockers that have some positive feedback are the proforms. having said that i'm using the comp pro-mags

[ksmyss]

i ran the crane golds. i ran them for over a year just throwing them on and using all the stock stuff, springs, retainers and pushrods with zero problems. i swapped in the lt4 springs and retainers and saw nothing due to the stock stuff being just fine.

i switched to the comp promags because my custom cam had dual springs and titanium retainers that were way to big and hit in 2 spots on the cranes.

either way just get one or the other and put them on and be done. don't over think anything. the stock push rods are fine and the stock springs are most likely fine too.

[96lt1m6]

i have the 1.6 sa Lt4s (crane) alum.

new set up has a set of P.E.P nsa 1.6 very similar to the pro mags but less $
self-align just plain SUCK!
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m173/rudy_028/1227294515.jpg

[95LT1Z28]

Ok so just go with a set of comp pro mags and dont bother with springs or pushrods???

[Z28pr0jekt]

Ok so just go with a set of comp pro mags and dont bother with springs or pushrods???

If you go to 1.6s I would not risk not putting springs on it. Best off upgrading the springs now (stronger than LT4s) especially if you are going to cam it later on.

Pushrods may not be as important now, and stockers should be fine. It is not a hard thing to swap out later down the road if you cam it.

[95LT1Z28]

Yeah thats true man, thanks, i was probably going to do spings anyway while i was there.

[sdmws6]

Yeah thats true man, thanks, i was probably going to do spings anyway while i was there.

Just remember when you upgrade to aftermarket springs with a higher seat pressure and spring rate, your pushrods become the weakest link and are prone to break at higher RPMs. I had two of them break on me at the factory ball-styled tips.

[95LT1Z28]

So then hardened pushrods would also be good to throw into the setup