More 5th Gen mods on the way

[harner]

Like an addict looking for a fix, I've been busy over the holiday weekend. Comparing prices, looking for deals, busting chops, etc. Since I only have a handful of things to buy for the T/A before it gets shipped out in the Spring, I decided it's time to throw some more cash at my daily (well, until it goes away for hibernation).

- OBX Long Tubes 1 7/8" with catless extension pipes
- GM exhaust manifold gaskets
- Taylor Spiro 8mm plug wires
- Wire sleeves
- NGK TR5s
- Jegs stainless 2.5" band clamps
- o2 extensions

Unlike the 4th gens, these should go in relatively easy on BOTH sides. I believe they go in from the top, as well. There's actually room to work on the motor in these lol. I did the intake last winter and it wasn't terrible. Already have the dynotune lined up in a few months with the shop that is going to "correct" the Trans Am.

Shooting for 425-430rwhp with just bolt ons.

Current mod list:
- Pypes Catback (2.5" duals)
- Ported TB
- Rotofab CAI
- Shorties (stock cats)
- GPI modded intake (http://s638.photobucket.com/user/ProStockJohn/media/2010%20Camaro%20SS/null_zps5c32d333.jpg.html)
- 412rwhp/412rwtq @ the 2015 LTXTech Dyno Day

[1QUICKZ28]

Think I need one of these to play with. It's only money. LOL! Subscribed.


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[popo8]

- 412rwhp/412rwtq @ the 2015 LTXTech Dyno Day


I started a fb event page. Glad to see so much intrest already.


LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN

[harner]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDbJyeSLaUM

[El-Ex]

interesting list of mods you're planning for your ride. any updates about it?

[harner]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TZgWJW1VOc

Headers are in. Just need to fix a small leak at the band clamp and move some heat shield out of the way. Picked up some PowerStop Z26 ceramic pads so that'll be next along with an oil change. Dyno tune and rear tires will happen in the first week of being out of the winter slumber.

The install was a breeze. The previous owner used ARP header bolts which is nice, but they also used Mr. Gasket gaskets. Anyone who lived in the 5th gen world for ANY amount of time will say GM header gaskets or bust. The hardest part was sticking my large, man hands in between all the wires and lines on the passenger side to get a couple bolts started through the gasket. The dipstick tube was really easy to get in, too once I realized you can see everything really well under the car.

The spring bolts on the collectors were crap but they work. I heard of people overtighening them, but the trick is you don't have to overtighten - the springs provide all the tension needed for a nice, secure fit. I replaced the old factory band clamps with 2.5" Jegs stainless band clamps - and they are really nice. However, the drive side pipe didn't want to line up 100%, so I'll need to loosen up both ends and play with the geometry a bit.

The Pypes catback was made for headers. I had to take the entire catback apart, clean it up, and start putting it back on from the front to the back. I'm glad I did, because I was really able to add clearance and the tips fit SO much better in the bumper.
I wish there weren't so many connection points in the catback. 4th gens are simple with an I-pipe, over-axle bend, mufflers, and tails. 5th gens have the pipes that connect from the cats/extension pipes (off the headers) to the X pipe. Then there are two seperate pipes PER SIDE between the X pipe and the tips!

http://pypesexhaust.com/images/F79986805.jpg

The geometry has to be just right on everything. I installed several catbacks on my 4th gen, laying on the ground with the car in the air by myself. This catback I did the same, but needed a jack to keep the X pipe up against the floor pans during the install.

I also used copper RTV at all the connections, plus my Carhartt, jeans, and hands. Hahaha. The install took longer than it had to because I was so meticulous with everything.

I love the sound and noticed a difference right away in how fast it climbs the RPMs. I don't want to beat it until it gets a tune.

Will definitely take a dyno video and post the results. I'm thinking 430rwhp conservatively on a dynojet.

[popo8]

Sounds like u now have a good reason to get her on the rollers at dyno day now. ;)

LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN

[harner]

Sounds like u now have a good reason to get her on the rollers at dyno day now. ;)

LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN

Definitely needs a tune first! :) I'm still thinking about it.

[popo8]

Definitely needs a tune first! :) I'm still thinking about it.
Excellent...

LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN

[blkchevyz]

i keep thinking about getting one for a daily driver... but i feel then i will never get my 94 going again.

[harner]

i keep thinking about getting one for a daily driver... but i feel then i will never get my 94 going again.

Story of my LIFE!

[popo8]

i keep thinking about getting one for a daily driver... but i feel then i will never get my 94 going again.
It happens often...

LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN

[harner]

So, I pulled the trigger on the dyno day registration. :)

The shop doing the tune only does street tunes, which I'd prefer. So the dyno day will kill the curiosity.

I've been spending a lot of time on the car, lately. Just odds and ends, mainly.

- Tires. Bought some used 90% tread Nitto Motivo's for the rears. The wheels are 20x10 or 20x11, so probably should have went wider than the stock size 275's. Oh well. Had them mounted and all 4 balanced yesterday. Cleaned the wheels and tires at the car wash, then scrubbed at the garage and installed.

- Trans fluid. Common on the 2010 Camaro's, the TR6060 has a notchy 2nd gear when cold. I don't bang gears when it's cold, but I can tell it isn't a smooth engagement into 2nd gear. Some higher mileage cars will actually grind, mine is just notchy. Some kind of design change was made with later cars, '11-12ish received the change and they have zero issues. New fluid helps but likely won't resolve the issue completely. I added just shy of 4 quarts of Redline ATF D4 which is one of the fluids of choice for the TR6060. Super easy and straight forward. My fluid pump was junk so I rigged up some heater hose with various sizes and a funnel, and filled it up in the engine bay lol. Bolts were square holes that my 3/8" ratchet fit right into.

- Diff fluid. Another recommended fluid change ASAP. The stock fluid was nasty and very gel-like. It didn't smell like the normal ass in our 10 bolts, but it didn't smell good, either. It reminded me of a watered down anti-seize in terms of color and consistency. I replaced it with Mobil 1 75w90 with the LS friction modifier already added. Drain and fill bolts were square holes for the 3/8" ratchet also. I couldn't get the entire quart in, so when I sit the front end back down off the jack stands, Ill jack up the one corner as high as possible and fill the diff.

- Oil change. Normal 5w30 Mobil 1 with a PF48 (non-E) delco filter.

- Brakes. I picked up the newly designed Powerstop Z26 pads for the front and rear for ~$135. I couldn't justify Hawk's or some other high end pad for the DD. The Powerstops are great because they have the rollerskate weights on them. Most replacement pads do not. Fun fact - 2010 Camaro's have unique lead weights stuck to the front calipers. This was a last minute design change that the engineers did to try and quiet the brakes down. This only occurred on early '10 cars. The change was then switched to pads with weights. Really neat reading into this as I initially thought some jackass just added wheel weights to the calipers for no reason. Also, Brembo brakes...wow. EASIEST brakes I have ever done, HANDS DOWN! You don't even had to remove the calipers to do a pad change! Two pins and a thin metal plate hold the pads in place. Tap em out with a punch and the pads easily slide out. It took me longer to remove the wheels with a 1/2" drive ratchet than it did to change pads.

Ex. http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/houstonvett/IMG_0352.jpg (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/houstonvett/media/IMG_0352.jpg.html)

- Heat tape. Bought some heat tape and covered up some wires/connecters located around the collectors. Also snuck the excess o2 extension wire under the heat shield and pinched it in place.

- Exhaust leaks. I had to tighten up one of the stainless band clamps (driver side) that connects the catless extension pipe to the catback on the drive side. The added noise/harmonics of the LTs makes me paranoid, so I will be going over the exhaust once more before the car comes down off the stands. I know the passenger side muffler is pretty close to a heat shield so I will modify that. Otherwise, it's quiet at start up and idle but really wakes up at WOT. It sounds very Vette or exotic-like. Can't wait for the tune so I can hear it at WOT.

- Header bolts. Need to retorque them now that I've heat cycled a few times. Piece of cake. Did I mention the previous owner man'd up and bought ARP header bolts? I wish they were stainless, but better than stock. Yes, I reused them.

- Detail. After everything is gone over, a good detail is on it's way. I bought some new Adam's pads to replace my Gen 1's. Also want to add some touch up paint to a few chips.

- Tune. I didn't schedule this, yet. But I'll be looking at the long-term weather report today. Hoping for early to mid March. Needs to have some miles on it before the dyno day. I don't want a leak or tune issue developing and can't go on the roller.

I'm probably missing some stuff, but it's soon ready for DD duty once again. I think it'll keep my thirst satiated for a while. I know in another 3-4 years, I'll get bored and find a CTS-V (V2 or V3) to play with. For now, it is just a solid car and fun to drive. Plus gets decent gas mileage. But who cares, I work from home!

[harner]

So, I pulled the trigger on the dyno day registration. :)

The shop doing the tune only does street tunes, which I'd prefer. So the dyno day will kill the curiosity.

I've been spending a lot of time on the car, lately. Just odds and ends, mainly.

- Tires. Bought some used 90% tread Nitto Motivo's for the rears. The wheels are 20x10 or 20x11, so probably should have went wider than the stock size 275's. Oh well. Had them mounted and all 4 balanced yesterday. Cleaned the wheels and tires at the car wash, then scrubbed at the garage and installed.

- Trans fluid. Common on the 2010 Camaro's, the TR6060 has a notchy 2nd gear when cold. I don't bang gears when it's cold, but I can tell it isn't a smooth engagement into 2nd gear. Some higher mileage cars will actually grind, mine is just notchy. Some kind of design change was made with later cars, '11-12ish received the change and they have zero issues. New fluid helps but likely won't resolve the issue completely. I added just shy of 4 quarts of Redline ATF D4 which is one of the fluids of choice for the TR6060. Super easy and straight forward. My fluid pump was junk so I rigged up some heater hose with various sizes and a funnel, and filled it up in the engine bay lol. Bolts were square holes that my 3/8" ratchet fit right into.

- Diff fluid. Another recommended fluid change ASAP. The stock fluid was nasty and very gel-like. It didn't smell like the normal ass in our 10 bolts, but it didn't smell good, either. It reminded me of a watered down anti-seize in terms of color and consistency. I replaced it with Mobil 1 75w90 with the LS friction modifier already added. Drain and fill bolts were square holes for the 3/8" ratchet also. I couldn't get the entire quart in, so when I sit the front end back down off the jack stands, Ill jack up the one corner as high as possible and fill the diff.

- Oil change. Normal 5w30 Mobil 1 with a PF48 (non-E) delco filter.

- Brakes. I picked up the newly designed Powerstop Z26 pads for the front and rear for ~$135. I couldn't justify Hawk's or some other high end pad for the DD. The Powerstops are great because they have the rollerskate weights on them. Most replacement pads do not. Fun fact - 2010 Camaro's have unique lead weights stuck to the front calipers. This was a last minute design change that the engineers did to try and quiet the brakes down. This only occurred on early '10 cars. The change was then switched to pads with weights. Really neat reading into this as I initially thought some jackass just added wheel weights to the calipers for no reason. Also, Brembo brakes...wow. EASIEST brakes I have ever done, HANDS DOWN! You don't even had to remove the calipers to do a pad change! Two pins and a thin metal plate hold the pads in place. Tap em out with a punch and the pads easily slide out. It took me longer to remove the wheels with a 1/2" drive ratchet than it did to change pads.

Ex. http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/houstonvett/IMG_0352.jpg (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/houstonvett/media/IMG_0352.jpg.html)

- Heat tape. Bought some heat tape and covered up some wires/connecters located around the collectors. Also snuck the excess o2 extension wire under the heat shield and pinched it in place.

- Exhaust leaks. I had to tighten up one of the stainless band clamps (driver side) that connects the catless extension pipe to the catback on the drive side. The added noise/harmonics of the LTs makes me paranoid, so I will be going over the exhaust once more before the car comes down off the stands. I know the passenger side muffler is pretty close to a heat shield so I will modify that. Otherwise, it's quiet at start up and idle but really wakes up at WOT. It sounds very Vette or exotic-like. Can't wait for the tune so I can hear it at WOT.

- Header bolts. Need to retorque them now that I've heat cycled a few times. Piece of cake. Did I mention the previous owner man'd up and bought ARP header bolts? I wish they were stainless, but better than stock. Yes, I reused them.

- Detail. After everything is gone over, a good detail is on it's way. I bought some new Adam's pads to replace my Gen 1's. Also want to add some touch up paint to a few chips.

- Tune. I didn't schedule this, yet. But I'll be looking at the long-term weather report today. Hoping for early to mid March. Needs to have some miles on it before the dyno day. I don't want a leak or tune issue developing and can't go on the roller.

I'm probably missing some stuff, but it's soon ready for DD duty once again. I think it'll keep my thirst satiated for a while. I know in another 3-4 years, I'll get bored and find a CTS-V (V2 or V3) to play with. For now, it is just a solid car and fun to drive. Plus gets decent gas mileage. But who cares, I work from home!
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160224/4be58592190e39404bebdc893ae7718a.jpg

Parked nose to nose for the winter with my stepdad's 55.

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[harner]

Started on the detail on Saturday. This thread is spiralling and I apologize ahead of time haha.

http://s7.postimg.org/6doatd6uj/12795411_555542093969_7857890356307194672_n.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

Since the car sits in my parents' pole building, I couldn't take all the detail supplies, just the essentials. As you can see, I am invested in quite a bit of Adam's Polishes products. It was very cold and windy outside, but that didn't stop me from getting down to business!

1. Wash. The car had an inch of dust since I had the cover off to do the header install. After a couple days, it accumulated dust and I left the cover off on purpose. I used the Adam's Rinseless Wash in a spray bottle, diluted about 1:4 with bottled water. I didn't care about residue, hence the dilute. It smells like bubble gum, which is awesome haha. My gloves and rags smelled great. With using a wash system like this, it's important to not reuse the rags when wiping, because you're just pushing the dust and dirt into the clear. Needless to say, I went through quite a bit of rags.

2. Claybar. After the wash, I used the Adam's claybar with some Meguier's detail spray. My normal go-to for claybar is Meguiers as the Adam's clay is not malleable enough for my liking. A few seconds in front of the torpedo heater helped lol. Anyway, clayed the entire car, including wheels, all glass, and all painted surfaces - and headlight lenses.

3. Tough-up paint. I bought a TUP stick made by AC Delco with my paint code. It has a small tip for doing very precise sanding of the area that will be touched up. It also has a pen-like tip that presses in and a clear coat swab. The car had a long scrape on the passenger side of the front bumper cover and this made it not go away, but masked the ugliness. I did a walk around on the car and hit quite a few areas. The front bumper cover really needed a lot of work.

4. Wheels & Tires. Picked up a bottle of (insert name here) chrome polish. I can't think of the name offhand, but it looks a bit more industrial than the typical crap cream you buy at the parts store. This was from the hardware store lol. It worked well on the rims. I used the rinseless wash on the rims inside and out before they went back on the car. Ran out of energy to steel wool the insides, but definitely cleaned them up. The chrome polish worked well. You apply with a damp rag and remove after it's dry. Definitely a difference and they look great. I also applied some Adam's SuperVRT to the tires and wow... I was always an armor all or whatever brand shiny tire guy. SuperVRT is so much cleaner and easier to use.

5. 1st round polish. Still waiting for the smaller backing plate to arrive in the mail so I was very careful. Used the Adam's Severe Swirl & Haze Remover with a gen 5 microfiber pad. Never used a pad like that before. I definitely made an impact on the paint. I did all painted surfaces and glass without wiping off the clay residue. I wiped it all off with a double sided-edgeless Adam's microfiber towel and it looks fantastic. Also cleared up some nasty swirls that were forming from last year's lazy washes in the driveway with a single bucket. Not to mention the quick wash prior to tucking it away at the car wash with the foam brush. This isn't a miracle cure product, but it works nice for the amateur enthusiast with a Porter Cable 7424XP polisher.

Up next is a pass with Swirl & Haze remover, then Machine Super Sealant, and then Fine Machine Polish. Once that is done, I'll inspect the paint a bit and apply some Buttery Wax with a polishing pad. Msybe some H20 Guard & Gloss as well but I've been reading mixed reviews on usage on that. Then hitting the outside rubber and vinyl with SuperVRT and doing up the interior. I bought Adam's Leather Cleaner & Conditioner for the seats and may either use In & Out Spray or VRT on the interior. Engine bay is pretty clean, but I'll be sure to hit that as well before it leaves the garage.

It'll be nice and shiny for a DD and will look great for the tune. Should be dirty with a nice shine for the dyno day haha. I don't want a show car, but the car was never a beauty queen up close from the day I bought it. Definitely a highway car with tons of chips, plus we all know black is the hardest to keep clean. As long as it's polished right and clean inside, that's my big concern.

[1QUICKZ28]

You bringing it to OC this year?


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[harner]

I'm not 100% sure I'll make it this Spring. Trying to knuckle-down on the Trans Am build and would rather have the funds to put into the car if need be. Hope to be in the T/A for Fall though!

I broke the Camaro out of storage last night. Did all polishes and wax. I forgot how easy Adam's is to wipe off. The SuperVRT cleaned up the plastics from accidently hitting them with the polish and wax, while making them look like new again. I love that stuff! Added some new flat black badges. The previous owner painted over the red "SS" on front and back. They got real sloppy on the front as black paint is all over the chrome surround. I'll probably replace that some day since it bothers me. I had some flat black vinyl cut for me so the car can have some real GS stripes, but one stripe wasn't long enough. I'll save that for another day lol.

Now, the best part - driving. The car sounds nice and healthy at start-up. Maybe a tick louder than it sounded before with a better, throatier tone. I didn't tach it up since it needs a tune, but the car really wakes up, now. I love the sound and think it's perfect. Finally, I achieved the sound I was after lol. It's perfect for a DD as driving at 55 in 5th has zero drone and is very quiet. Like stock quiet. Going for a tune, tomorrow. Just a street tune so no numbers until the dyno day. I can definitely feel more power, as well. But have yet to go over 4k rpm. It's rich as hell and throwing o2 codes so I don't want to push it. Tomorrow is a different story!

[popo8]

Orrrrr... have the ta ready for the spring cruise.

LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN

[harner]

Welllllll.... even if the T/A was ready for OCMD, I would never have the balls to drive it that far so soon and out of the AAA tow radius lol.

The Camaro was tuned yesterday at the shop who now has the T/A. Very impressive place, nice to see professionalism and enthusiasm. I feel very safe with the tune. Since I had the equivalent of a mail order prior to the LT's, we determined that all that did was add 4% fuel and ditched torque management. This tune leaned it out a tad, but it's still nice and safe. The car is much smoother all around - I don't really know how else to describe it. The street tune was interesting to say the least. I'll find out numbers at the dyno day, but for now I'm really happy with how the car drives and performs. The butt dyno is happy lol. I don't care if it lost peak power, because it just feels so much stronger across the power band, not just up top like it did before. Although, I'm shooting for 425-430rwhp. We shall see once it gets strapped down on the heartbreaker lol.

[popo8]

Cant wait man!

LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN

[harner]

Wrapping up this thread... until next time.

http://s29.postimg.org/lc559rzav/ltx.jpg

432rwhp / 435rwtq

[1QUICKZ28]

Seen your numbers. Impressive!! Congrats!!


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[popo8]

Wrapping up this thread... until next time.

http://s29.postimg.org/lc559rzav/ltx.jpg

432rwhp / 435rwtq
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160328/505ccf842400be73d5eb5f6edf9fba30.jpg

LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN

[30thSSclone]

With Texas speed headers, 3" x pipe, magnaflow mufflers

Rotofab cold air

And fairly small custom grind cam with BTR .660" springs

I put down 475

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[popo8]

With Texas speed headers, 3" x pipe, magnaflow mufflers

Rotofab cold air

And fairly small custom grind cam with BTR .660" springs

I put down 475

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Hes moved on and traded that car in. harner is now a caddy ctsv man...

LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN

[harner]

475 is strong for a small cam. Lots of guys making just a few more (5-15rwhp) with a much larger cam. My 5th gen was prime for a cam and CNC heads. Gotta love that ls3, just a great platform for easy power.

Now on to bigger and better things. Shooting for 480-490 on the dyno with my V next month with a CAI, free valve mod lol, and tune. Scheduled for 11/26

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[SSlowBoat]

475 is strong for a small cam. Lots of guys making just a few more (5-15rwhp) with a much larger cam. My 5th gen was prime for a cam and CNC heads. Gotta love that ls3, just a great platform for easy power.

Now on to bigger and better things. Shooting for 480-490 on the dyno with my V next month with a CAI, free valve mod lol, and tune. Scheduled for 11/26

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love the way that supercharger sounds. weston and i just looked at each other because all you heard was "WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHI IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIINNNNNNN NNNNNNNNNNNNEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE"

[harner]

love the way that supercharger sounds. weston and i just looked at each other because all you heard was "WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHI IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIINNNNNNN NNNNNNNNNNNNEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE"

I'm still waiting to see a V2 pop up on Ltconvert 's FB page with the headline "Bought a new daily"

[SSlowBoat]

I'm still waiting to see a V2 pop up on @Ltconvert (http://ltxtech.com/forums/member.php?u=6566) 's FB page with the headline "Bought a new daily"

he will talk and talk and talk about it but Ltconvert wont buy a cts v.2 and we all know it. i keep sending him links to them local for good prices and he just keeps shying off.

[Ltconvert]

Just talked about an Ellwein engine with procharger for awhile also


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[SSlowBoat]

Just talked about an Ellwein engine with procharger for awhile also


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only reason you did that is because u didnt make enough power with the stock shortblock LOL

[30thSSclone]

475 is strong for a small cam. Lots of guys making just a few more (5-15rwhp) with a much larger cam. My 5th gen was prime for a cam and CNC heads. Gotta love that ls3, just a great platform for easy power.

Now on to bigger and better things. Shooting for 480-490 on the dyno with my V next month with a CAI, free valve mod lol, and tune. Scheduled for 11/26

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Specs are 229/242 .620 .608 on a 113+5.... Which isn't a terribly large cam. The next motor I'm going to put in it should be a 1,XXX hp nitrous motor


I want to be well into the 9s with a stick and full interior

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