jaysz2893
11-29-2015, 06:03 PM
Information on PFPE lubes and automotive applications.
I asked the Admin if I could write a tech article on the lubes I work with and develop. I work for the company the founded the segment but there are a few competitors out there. I am not trying to sell any product, but if you want some PM me and I will tell you where to go look for the right one or if there is a right PFPE of the application. I do tech service all day and we help many end users find the right lube even if it is not ours. Anyway here is some background on PFPE
Perfluoropolyalkylether – PFPE oil
• Composed entirely of fluorine, carbon and oxygen
• Sometimes referred to as “liquid TeflonTM”
• ISO grades from 2 to 1000
• All early greases were thickened with PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene – TeflonTM powder)
• Now also use non-melting thickeners for applications of 300° to 400°C+
• No flash point
• No auto-ignition point
• No reaction with oxygen
• No Volatile Breakdown products
• No tars or deposits
No chemical attack by:
• Boiling sulfuric acid
• Fuming nitric acid
• Hydrofluoric/ hydrochloric acid
• Strong oxidizers
• Water/steam
• Molten/aqueous caustic
No reactivity with plastics and elastomers.
• Like materials might swell at high temperatures
• No reactivity with paints.
• Useable in all metals up to 288°C.
• Good in high nickel / chrome at higher temperatures.
• Won’t react with other types of lubricants. (but also won’t mix with them)
• Anticorrosion additives (sodium nitrite, SP3, sodium sebacate) prevent rust in bearings.
• Extreme Pressure additives (molybdenum disulfide, molybdenum dithiocarbamate, carbon fluoride) allow the bearing to carry a heavier load or run at very slow speeds
That is the basics. Typically PFPE’s are used in high temperature industrial applications. PFPE’s are also used widely in the automotive industry. Applications from fan bearings, sunroof sliders, DC motors in seats, etc.., Alternator bearings, and NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness.) I want to talk about the NVH point.
Most of us have replaced out suspension parts with Poly Bushings. Over time they squeak and need re-greasing regularly. Typically people over grease them, over tighten them, or replace them prematurely. I have had great success with using a corrosion resistant PFPE grease in all my poly bushings. I also use it on my spring perches to keep that noise down too.
Another use is window seals and tracks. The dreaded window motor failure is caused by age but also by dry window tracks. A few drops of a PFPE oil will make the window go up and down like new. Rubbing some PFPE oil on seal will keep noise down and allow for a better seal. We use it on all or car restorations with the new rubber and window felts we install.
Inside the car you can use it on shifter mechanisms, put it between plastic parts that rub and squeak, A/C vent adjusters (some cars come factory with it there now), and seat tracks.
Here is the big secret to making it work right – everything has to be CLEAN and FREE of Hydrocarbon lubricants before applying PFPE lubes. PFPE’s are not for use as motor, transmission, and differential lubes. Here is the basics we send out to customers:
1. The bearings, housings, gears, etc. must be thoroughly cleaned before the application of PFPE grease to remove any residual mineral/synthetic oil/grease that might be present. The life of the PFPE lubricated component will be significantly shortened if mineral/synthetic oil/grease contamination remains.
2. Any good solvent for traditional mineral oil and synthetic products may be used for this cleaning as long as the parts are allowed to completely dry and there is no residual oily film remaining. If an oily film is detected either a second washing with new, clean solvent or a flushing with a second high volatility solvent will be required (i.e. isopropanol, acetone, etc.). Do not use chlorinated solvents. If parts washing cabinets are available (solvent followed by a water-based detergent), this is another good cleaning method for the smaller parts as long as the cleaning solutions are not overloaded with heavy oils allowing these heavy oils to remain on the parts.
3. Gearbox/bearing housings that are awkward to clean should have all grease oil removed by wiping with a clean solvent wetted rag and allowed to dry.
4. If it becomes necessary to remove PFPE grease from a component, traditional solvents will not work. The part should first be wiped clean with a rag and if additional cleaning is required a special fluorinated solvent must be used (i.e. PFPE Solvent - DuPont Vertrel XF, 3M HFE 7100).
Feel free to hit me up with any questions. If you google PFPE you will see the trade / brands out there. You can purchase it on Amazon. It is expensive but the price is worth it since in 99% of the cases it is a once and done application. A little of it goes a long way and a 2 ounce tube will lube a lot and last forever. All PFPE’s have an indefinite shelf life.
I asked the Admin if I could write a tech article on the lubes I work with and develop. I work for the company the founded the segment but there are a few competitors out there. I am not trying to sell any product, but if you want some PM me and I will tell you where to go look for the right one or if there is a right PFPE of the application. I do tech service all day and we help many end users find the right lube even if it is not ours. Anyway here is some background on PFPE
Perfluoropolyalkylether – PFPE oil
• Composed entirely of fluorine, carbon and oxygen
• Sometimes referred to as “liquid TeflonTM”
• ISO grades from 2 to 1000
• All early greases were thickened with PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene – TeflonTM powder)
• Now also use non-melting thickeners for applications of 300° to 400°C+
• No flash point
• No auto-ignition point
• No reaction with oxygen
• No Volatile Breakdown products
• No tars or deposits
No chemical attack by:
• Boiling sulfuric acid
• Fuming nitric acid
• Hydrofluoric/ hydrochloric acid
• Strong oxidizers
• Water/steam
• Molten/aqueous caustic
No reactivity with plastics and elastomers.
• Like materials might swell at high temperatures
• No reactivity with paints.
• Useable in all metals up to 288°C.
• Good in high nickel / chrome at higher temperatures.
• Won’t react with other types of lubricants. (but also won’t mix with them)
• Anticorrosion additives (sodium nitrite, SP3, sodium sebacate) prevent rust in bearings.
• Extreme Pressure additives (molybdenum disulfide, molybdenum dithiocarbamate, carbon fluoride) allow the bearing to carry a heavier load or run at very slow speeds
That is the basics. Typically PFPE’s are used in high temperature industrial applications. PFPE’s are also used widely in the automotive industry. Applications from fan bearings, sunroof sliders, DC motors in seats, etc.., Alternator bearings, and NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness.) I want to talk about the NVH point.
Most of us have replaced out suspension parts with Poly Bushings. Over time they squeak and need re-greasing regularly. Typically people over grease them, over tighten them, or replace them prematurely. I have had great success with using a corrosion resistant PFPE grease in all my poly bushings. I also use it on my spring perches to keep that noise down too.
Another use is window seals and tracks. The dreaded window motor failure is caused by age but also by dry window tracks. A few drops of a PFPE oil will make the window go up and down like new. Rubbing some PFPE oil on seal will keep noise down and allow for a better seal. We use it on all or car restorations with the new rubber and window felts we install.
Inside the car you can use it on shifter mechanisms, put it between plastic parts that rub and squeak, A/C vent adjusters (some cars come factory with it there now), and seat tracks.
Here is the big secret to making it work right – everything has to be CLEAN and FREE of Hydrocarbon lubricants before applying PFPE lubes. PFPE’s are not for use as motor, transmission, and differential lubes. Here is the basics we send out to customers:
1. The bearings, housings, gears, etc. must be thoroughly cleaned before the application of PFPE grease to remove any residual mineral/synthetic oil/grease that might be present. The life of the PFPE lubricated component will be significantly shortened if mineral/synthetic oil/grease contamination remains.
2. Any good solvent for traditional mineral oil and synthetic products may be used for this cleaning as long as the parts are allowed to completely dry and there is no residual oily film remaining. If an oily film is detected either a second washing with new, clean solvent or a flushing with a second high volatility solvent will be required (i.e. isopropanol, acetone, etc.). Do not use chlorinated solvents. If parts washing cabinets are available (solvent followed by a water-based detergent), this is another good cleaning method for the smaller parts as long as the cleaning solutions are not overloaded with heavy oils allowing these heavy oils to remain on the parts.
3. Gearbox/bearing housings that are awkward to clean should have all grease oil removed by wiping with a clean solvent wetted rag and allowed to dry.
4. If it becomes necessary to remove PFPE grease from a component, traditional solvents will not work. The part should first be wiped clean with a rag and if additional cleaning is required a special fluorinated solvent must be used (i.e. PFPE Solvent - DuPont Vertrel XF, 3M HFE 7100).
Feel free to hit me up with any questions. If you google PFPE you will see the trade / brands out there. You can purchase it on Amazon. It is expensive but the price is worth it since in 99% of the cases it is a once and done application. A little of it goes a long way and a 2 ounce tube will lube a lot and last forever. All PFPE’s have an indefinite shelf life.