Dry and wet kits

[Mav383]

Hello all. Needing some opinions/advice. I'm running a 355 w forged pistons, arp throughout. Cc503, yank 3200. 3.73s CPT 4L60, digital 6, nos window switch, 2 step colder plugs, 36 lb injectors, 340 pump in a fat Impala SS.

I'm currently running a 150 through a plate retarding 7'. I'm thinking of spray a 50 dry shot at 2000rpm followed by a wet 150 shot at 3500. Or should I just spray a wet 200 at around 3000. What do you guys think? Any advice is appreciated.

This is just a mock up to get an idea33292


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[Chopstix]

DO NOT run a dry kit on the OE LTx pcm...PERIOD

put it all on 1 kit and let it eat

[Mav383]

200 shot @ 3000rpm?
I have the 150 shot coming in @3300 right now.

Do you mind educating me on the pcm?


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[popo8]

DO NOT run a dry kit on the OE LTx pcm...PERIOD

put it all on 1 kit and let it eat


This guy knows N20^^^

whatever he says.

[Chopstix]

the LTx PCM cannot accurately manage proper fuel enrichment via the MAF...LTx dry kits are designed to force the fuel pressure regulator is increase fuel pressure to well above the intended operating pressures...this has led to injector failure and fuel line ruptures.


It is just not a good idea on the OE PCM...now if you are running an aftermarket PCM then it is a different story all together.

The system on my car is a single .082 jet...TPS sensor activation with 3000 rpm window switch low point...my kit is spraying before the car starts to move off the line.

The key to nitrous is to get it on full power as fast as you can hook it.

[GuillaumeC]

the LTx PCM cannot accurately manage proper fuel enrichment via the MAF...LTx dry kits are designed to force the fuel pressure regulator is increase fuel pressure to well above the intended operating pressures...this has led to injector failure and fuel line ruptures.


It is just not a good idea on the OE PCM...now if you are running an aftermarket PCM then it is a different story all together.

The system on my car is a single .082 jet...TPS sensor activation with 3000 rpm window switch low point...my kit is spraying before the car starts to move off the line.

The key to nitrous is to get it on full power as fast as you can hook it.


THIS!

When I was using nitrous in the Caprice I started at 3500 rpm (150 hp single fogger) and lowered the RPM progressively. The car was hooking pretty well and ended up not using the "minimum RPM" setting on the window switch, so nitrous was activated as soon as I went WOT. The torque converter stalled high enough so it wasn't a safety issue for the motor.

Even if we ignore the fact that the LT1 PCM can't correctly handle a dry kit, I would go through the hassle of wirring a 2nd stage just for 50 hp.

[Mav383]

Thanks bro. I have my plugs gapped at .035, should I close them up a bit?


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[Chopstix]

as far as gap...what ever is working for you

what plugs are you using, and what cylinder heads do you have

[Mav383]

Using BR7EF plugs. Have stock aluminum heads. They are lightly massaged n polished.


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[Chopstix]

for a 200 you might want to drop down to the 8 check heat range and adjust from there

[Mav383]

Will do. Thank you


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