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twcblackhand6970
09-12-2008, 02:30 AM
Okay, let me explain my problems. I was sitting in parking lot letting my car heat up before I started driving and it just shut off once the temp got up. Then I started again and popped hood and was looking around the engine bay and it shut off again. It doesn't give any warning like sputtering or noises, just turns off and the the fan turns off about 1 second later. So I started again and it was fine. I then drove home and when I almost got home after about 5minutes of driving on freeway it missed twice that I could feel. By miss I mean the RPM gauge kicked down from 2 to 1.5krpm and back up to 2krpm. Being clueless I did only check I could do which was make sure everything was connected that I could see on top of engine and checked the temp of each exhaust pipe. Here's what I got (don't know cylinder numbers but I'll kinda draw it)

Passenger Side Driver Side
4 - 400*F 4 - 450*F
3 - 505*F 3 - 427*F
2 - 584*F 2 - 460*F
1 - 415*F 1 - 438*F
Front of car/engine

(all temps were taken with a lazer thingy, so are approximent)

Another thing is that when I take my oil filler cap off I can smell something close to how a lawn mower exhaust smells.

My SES light is on when I turn my car on but my mechanic says they are all emissions codes (EGR valve bad some others), sometimes it turns off at a red light but when I start going when the light turns green it comes back on. And when I'm on the freeway and let off the gas to coast a little and then press gas to accelerate again I can hear some exhaust popping for about 1 second.

And also when I'm idling and give it a little gas to get the rpm to 1000rpm, it moves just a little. Also while I'm idling the amp, rpm, and oil pressure gauge bounce very little.

I don't know if any of that'll help. Just want to know what's wrong with my car. I also don't have access to a scanner and autozone can't do OBD1 connections.

So what is yall's input on my problem(s).

Fixxer99TA
09-12-2008, 08:32 PM
Honestly, I hate to say opti right off the bat but thats exactly what optis do when they are on their way out (optical signal gets weak, killing the car shortly after starting... but the car WILL restart after it dies, but do the same thing a few minutes later).

Check the cheap stuff first (coil/ICM and maybe plugs/wires but doubtful its them) just so you dont go throwing parts at the car.

So try to take your coil/ICM to autozone to have them test it OR swap a coil/ICM you KNOW is good in place and see if the car runs fine.

twcblackhand6970
09-12-2008, 11:22 PM
Do I have to take my coil and ICM off for autozone to test, or can they do while it's in the car?

Fixxer99TA
09-12-2008, 11:30 PM
I am fairly sure you have to take them off, as I dont think they can get the testing equipment outside... But I could be wrong :D

LT1_Fireman
09-13-2008, 12:02 AM
My vote is on the opti, could be wrong though so try the cheap stuff first like Fixxer suggested.

twcblackhand6970
09-13-2008, 12:26 AM
Hope it's not opti.

Fixxer99TA
09-13-2008, 12:35 AM
If it is, it will usually throw a code before too long.

twcblackhand6970
09-13-2008, 12:42 AM
Well, my SES light is already on because of emissions.

I8A5.0
09-23-2008, 09:12 PM
opti for sure! already went threw that lesson on patience.just take your time and make sure everything lines up.you should be good

richardson
09-23-2008, 09:50 PM
Opti! Sounds kind of similar to mine before it went out. How old is the water pump? I went ahead and changed mine since it sits right on TOP of the opti..
just my .02:D