View Full Version : Dan's Money Pit NYTRDR
Someone stole my rear seats!
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/30/0579827c45da15d7b7b0b9b4cfdbe4ba.jpg
Got a picture from the theif!!!
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/30/cbc6c28c48ca4de3779b285d79d07cc2.jpg
What do I do guys
PoloGreenZ
10-30-2015, 06:26 PM
Call 9-meow-meow
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk
Call 9-meow-meow
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk
10/10 laughed pretty hard
Formula218
10-30-2015, 07:43 PM
they stole your seats and left you the blue dome light from a civic!!! what a catastrophe.
catastrophe.
God damn that was good
Dunno what to do with the seat belts.. Probably going to remove. Gotta pull the passenger seat and get the interior clean before I store it
popo8
10-31-2015, 06:26 AM
Are u leavin the rear seat out?
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
My cat likes the seats too much and they are useless
Formula218
10-31-2015, 06:52 PM
Dans right, interiors are useless. Take it from the guy who has two seats and a dash pad, and nothing else left in his car!
better MPG too ;)
Dans right, interiors are useless. Take it from the guy who has two seats and a dash pad, and nothing else left in his car!
better MPG too ;)
U running a stock steering wheel too? :D
I get like 23 mpg. Not bad for an almost 20 year old dinosaur and 20 year old driver
Formula218
10-31-2015, 08:12 PM
U running a stock steering wheel too? :D
I get like 23 mpg. Not bad for an almost 20 year old dinosaur and 20 year old driver
No, Grand wheel with removable hub. All the heat/air stuff is gone, all the radio and speaker crap, all interior panels and carpet, brackets cut out, all the ABS and security boxes, all the wipers and linkage (nitrous solenoids tucked nicely in the cowl) etc. she got made fun of for being fat in school so she's anorexic now. I want to take the bumpers off to pull some stuff out from under them both but i'm afraid i'll never get them back on right lol.
http://ltxtech.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34511&stc=1
Curious about your steering wheel. I kinda want to maybe get one. But idk if it's a great idea for a DD ya feel..
How often do you drive the car? Formula218
Formula218
10-31-2015, 10:23 PM
In the summer i driver it 3-4 days a week. it doesn't have wipers so if i know it's going to rain i'll leave it home. I don't see any reason why it would be a problem having it in a DD. At the same time i don't see why you'd need one? i had to get one because the side bolstered on the Kirkey stick out so far i can't squeeze my fat ass between it and the steering wheel (and because it's lighter than having an airbag.)
In the summer i driver it 3-4 days a week. it doesn't have wipers so if i know it's going to rain i'll leave it home. I don't see any reason why it would be a problem having it in a DD. At the same time i don't see why you'd need one? i had to get one because the side bolstered on the Kirkey stick out so far i can't squeeze my fat ass between it and the steering wheel (and because it's lighter than having an airbag.)
Steering wheel is off and I'm not going to get a other steering shaft or ls1 rack to fix it. Turned the steering wheel when it was off and ya.
Formula218
11-01-2015, 07:06 AM
you mean it's misaligned?
Yes sir. Not a big deal. Just curious about another wheel is all
Formula218
11-01-2015, 12:50 PM
gotcha..
Looks like I'm going to be getting a spec stage 2 clutch. Going to read into them a little more
popo8
11-02-2015, 05:29 PM
Dont forget to hit up josh or gail for prices. Our sponsors are great at taking care of this community.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
Will do. Looking at comp clutches now lol
Hot cam and call it a day? [emoji38]
Err or a custom grind
SJx408
11-04-2015, 05:34 PM
Custom grind! Don't be a noob!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
PoloGreenZ
11-04-2015, 08:18 PM
I love my hot cam
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk
shownomercy
11-04-2015, 08:56 PM
GM847, don't be a puss.
Custom grind! Don't be a noob!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
You a noob son
I love my hot cam
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk
I luv the way the sound.
GM847, don't be a puss.
Yes sir
MrAngry
11-08-2015, 10:04 AM
I don't stare at the tach.. I shift the car when it wants on the street. This is only for the track. I could shift it to the sound of the motor, but I personally don't want to repeatedly hit the rev limiter.
Ya'll just jelly ya'll don't got a black car. ;)
I see your black, and raise you MORE black, with bonus pop up headlamps! :finger:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/sportrods/Firebird%20shoot%20May%2012%202013/DSC_0458_zps508b7dbf.jpg (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/sportrods/media/Firebird%20shoot%20May%2012%202013/DSC_0458_zps508b7dbf.jpg.html)
MrAngry
11-08-2015, 10:49 AM
Gimme a new rear end and then I'll think about it. S60 or 9 inch? It would be smarter to do the rear before touching the engine so I can run some big boy tires probably.
God I change my mind too much. #ADD4Lyfe
If you're still on the fence on this one, I'll give you what I've learned. S60 is you intend to autoX, hammer corners, and occasionally drag race. 9" if you're going full on mental drag car. The 9" is heavier, and saps a bit more power, but will take massive amounts of abuse. The S60 is very tough, but not quite as tough as the 9". But, it's lighter.
That said, I put the S60 through massive abuse on slicks, and it held up great fro a long time, and a lot of nitrous. I ran a 9" with a spool afterwards. I could definitely tell the difference in weight, but I could stand that car on the bumper and not worry about the rear end breaking.
MrAngry
11-08-2015, 10:59 AM
Dreams were shattered when I realized s60 has a spool and spool sucks balls for a DD.
So I priced out a 9inch... 3300 for an Auburn posi.
Accepting donations to my PayPal. It's Daltizio13@gmail.com feel free to give me money.
I'm going to bed
You can get the S60 with a Posi
http://www.strangeengineering.net/make-and-model/gm/complete-rear-end-assemblies/s60/s60-rear-end-f-body-h-d-posi-35-s-t-axles-f-body-mounts.html
SJx408
11-08-2015, 01:29 PM
AFAIK an S60 is essentially bullet proof, and virtually a direct fit. Lighter with less drivetrain loss, I'm going s60 down the road. 9" is nice if you're constantly wanting to change gearing for the strip. I plan on a little strip and road course use so the s60 fits my needs for an M6 car. Dan what are your goals with the car?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Catmaigne
11-08-2015, 01:43 PM
If you're still on the fence on this one, I'll give you what I've learned. S60 is you intend to autoX, hammer corners, and occasionally drag race. 9" if you're going full on mental drag car. The 9" is heavier, and saps a bit more power, but will take massive amounts of abuse. The S60 is very tough, but not quite as tough as the 9". But, it's lighter.
That said, I put the S60 through massive abuse on slicks, and it held up great fro a long time, and a lot of nitrous. I ran a 9" with a spool afterwards. I could definitely tell the difference in weight, but I could stand that car on the bumper and not worry about the rear end breaking.
You have things a little backwards.
From heaviest to lightest... S60, stamped 9", 12 bolt, fabricated 9" = 10 bolt
Most power consumption to least... Stamped or fab 9", S60, 12 bolt, 10 bolt
The weights are generalizations because they depend on your carrier (spool/LSD), axle splines/gun drilling/star flange, and third member (for the 9"). The S60 will be the heaviest and the fab 9" or 10 bolt will be the lightest with all the same bells and whistles. Keeping unsprung weight down is extremely important for autox or road racing. Reducing unsprung weight is second to strength for serious drag.
S60 vs 9"
The strength debate between these two is endless but they will both take a ton of shit (assuming the 9" is built with modern parts and not OE Ford junk from the 50s). The S60 has the bigger ring gear but the 9" has a pilot on the end of the pinion gear.
The S60 is heavier than a stamped 9" and a ton heavier than a fab 9".
The 9" will eat more power because of the offset pinion.
The 9" is typically more expensive.
The 9" has more aftermarket support, gear ratios, and the ability to swap third members on the fly.
If you just need a rear to hold up in a straight line, then get the S60 and save some money. If you want to do that and take corners, then get a 9" (but make sure you get tapered wheel bearings -- the ball bearing ones are for drag cars).
AFAIK an S60 is essentially bullet proof, and virtually a direct fit. Lighter with less drivetrain loss, I'm going s60 down the road. 9" is nice if you're constantly wanting to change gearing for the strip. I plan on a little strip and road course use so the s60 fits my needs for an M6 car. Dan what are your goals with the car?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Honestly, my goals are a reliable car with powa! I intend on building a forged NA 383. It may or may not get boost. When this will happen, I have no idea. I drive this car spring to fall and I intend to until I decide it's time to get a different car to burn gas with and save this for this car for the weekends and woodward.
That said, I do not want to purchase a s60, and need to get a 9inch because I'm pushing the limits of the s60. I will go balls to the wall to make whatever I buy unbreakable.
SJx408
11-08-2015, 02:27 PM
That's what I'm saying though is the s60 may very well be unbreakable
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Catmaigne
11-08-2015, 02:35 PM
They can both be unbreakable. The 9" is just a little more versatile... which costs money.
The main reason I went with a 9" was so I could build third members on the side for drag only and swap them in before going to the track. That way you don't have to run around town with a spool all the time.
SJx408
11-08-2015, 02:47 PM
True that ^ which is why everyone has a different set up for different goals. I'm rarely going to see strip time but I'd like to know I can go and not break shit. Mainly a street car that will make trips to Mexico and the road courses. Build it from the rear forward. That's what I'm doing. Getting susp and driveline sorted before dipping into the engine. Plant the power you got and prepare for the future.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
dawdaw
11-08-2015, 06:13 PM
You will never make no where even remotely close to the amount of power you need to break a dana 60. They're a very stout rear .
Who knows boys. I'll decide eventually..
My car is a pile of shit anyway. Why even invest any money into it right
You have things a little backwards.
From heaviest to lightest... S60, stamped 9", 12 bolt, fabricated 9" = 10 bolt
Most power consumption to least... Stamped or fab 9", S60, 12 bolt, 10 bolt
The weights are generalizations because they depend on your carrier (spool/LSD), axle splines/gun drilling/star flange, and third member (for the 9"). The S60 will be the heaviest and the fab 9" or 10 bolt will be the lightest with all the same bells and whistles. Keeping unsprung weight down is extremely important for autox or road racing. Reducing unsprung weight is second to strength for serious drag.
S60 vs 9"
The strength debate between these two is endless but they will both take a ton of shit (assuming the 9" is built with modern parts and not OE Ford junk from the 50s). The S60 has the bigger ring gear but the 9" has a pilot on the end of the pinion gear.
The S60 is heavier than a stamped 9" and a ton heavier than a fab 9".
The 9" will eat more power because of the offset pinion.
The 9" is typically more expensive.
The 9" has more aftermarket support, gear ratios, and the ability to swap third members on the fly.
If you just need a rear to hold up in a straight line, then get the S60 and save some money. If you want to do that and take corners, then get a 9" (but make sure you get tapered wheel bearings -- the ball bearing ones are for drag cars).
I appreciate you writing all that out. I've been researching it so far but only have been finding tidbits. So having it all right here makes it a lot easier. Thank you.
shownomercy
11-08-2015, 08:25 PM
lulz at hotcam talk and worry about breaking a damn S60.
Good fucking luck with that.
Biggest downside to S60, is the lack of sub 3.54 gear sets other than that, its all gonna cost over 2k and its all gonna be overkill for anything you throw at it unless you plan on a sub 8 sec pass.
MrAngry
11-08-2015, 08:35 PM
You have things a little backwards.
From heaviest to lightest... S60, stamped 9", 12 bolt, fabricated 9" = 10 bolt
Most power consumption to least... Stamped or fab 9", S60, 12 bolt, 10 bolt
The weights are generalizations because they depend on your carrier (spool/LSD), axle splines/gun drilling/star flange, and third member (for the 9"). The S60 will be the heaviest and the fab 9" or 10 bolt will be the lightest with all the same bells and whistles. Keeping unsprung weight down is extremely important for autox or road racing. Reducing unsprung weight is second to strength for serious drag.
S60 vs 9"
The strength debate between these two is endless but they will both take a ton of shit (assuming the 9" is built with modern parts and not OE Ford junk from the 50s). The S60 has the bigger ring gear but the 9" has a pilot on the end of the pinion gear.
The S60 is heavier than a stamped 9" and a ton heavier than a fab 9".
The 9" will eat more power because of the offset pinion.
The 9" is typically more expensive.
The 9" has more aftermarket support, gear ratios, and the ability to swap third members on the fly.
If you just need a rear to hold up in a straight line, then get the S60 and save some money. If you want to do that and take corners, then get a 9" (but make sure you get tapered wheel bearings -- the ball bearing ones are for drag cars).
I stand corrected. I just noticed the rear suspension felt more responsive with the s60. More lively if that makes sense.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
lulz at hotcam talk and worry about breaking a damn S60.
Good fucking luck with that.
Biggest downside to S60, is the lack of sub 3.54 gear sets other than that, its all gonna cost over 2k and its all gonna be overkill for anything you throw at it unless you plan on a sub 8 sec pass.
I'm going to be running 3.90s or 4.10/11s. Undecided. I figured it would be tough to break one but one must consider the kind of luck I have!
Now that we are talking rear ends.. Spool is out of the question. Thoughts? Truetrac, locker, Posi?
shownomercy
11-08-2015, 08:44 PM
Wavetrac.
Make it rain.
Catmaigne
11-08-2015, 09:46 PM
More lively? Did you do other suspension mods at the time of the rear? More unsprung weight won't articulate as well and is less tolerant of mid corner bumps.
Catmaigne
11-08-2015, 09:47 PM
Wavetrac.
Make it rain.
yeaaaaaah boiiiiiii
avoid the truecrap for big power
MrAngry
11-08-2015, 10:18 PM
More lively? Did you do other suspension mods at the time of the rear? More unsprung weight won't articulate as well and is less tolerant of mid corner bumps.
No, same stuff. Same gearing even. The only difference is the 9" is spooled.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Looks like you can't get a wavetrac on the s60 boys. Appears to be in the 9inch.
There is the S-trac option and that might be the chicken dinner.
dawdaw
11-09-2015, 04:40 AM
Strange s Trac . .best.posi type unit out there
shownomercy
11-09-2015, 06:58 AM
Just get a 12 bolt, the kind with four bolts and be fantastical!
Strange s Trac . .best.posi type unit out there
Is this true?
Just get a 12 bolt, the kind with four bolts and be fantastical!
U funny. Me like the one who shownomercy!
I can't find the S-trac s60 on strange's site.
On Drivetrain stuff. I'm going with the comp stage 4 clutch. I've been reading only positive things about competition clutches. I do plan on getting in touch with them to verify part numbers and hp/tq numbers.
shownomercy
11-09-2015, 01:41 PM
In all seriousness, you are thinking of a hotcam, so build your car as such. A hot cam does not dictate a S60, and def not a decked out S60 at that. So if your near future doesn't entail a huge power car,don't waste your money on that.
That being said, if you can afford it and its a logical area that you would grow into, get the best you can. Do not buy a trans rated at 750hp since you figure an LT1 would never make that. D'oh
All joking aside, I am thinking LE2 heads and cam. That would dictate a rear end imo. Also, I would rather do the rear end first because if I were to do the motor first, I can't go to the track without having to worry about if my rear will break on the next pass or the current one.
I honestly think it would be the smarter approach to build the rear first. I have all but a torque arm already replaced in back. So the suspension is pretty much set. Exhaust will be pretty much set(3 inch cutout, LTs). Don't really have to worry about the trans because 6 speed. Clutch is already chosen.
The rear will cost 2800 I think with S-trac. Then a driveshaft for I forgot.
popo8
11-09-2015, 08:03 PM
If i could do my build differently... thats what I would have done... from back to front.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
I'm all for heads and cam. But I'm a college student. I can't afford to do both right now. It would be smarter to do the clutch and rear and that's what I'm going to do. If I do the motor and the rear breaks, the car goes. No if, ands or butts.
I'd like to say thank you for all for not ripping my lungs out and shoving them down my throat because I change my mind so damn much. Some things have came up in the family and I am by no means thrilled. Shit fucking ruins my day every time I'm reminded of it. I'm trying to distract myself with winter shit but it's starting to get harder to do that.
Thanks fellas..
Catmaigne
11-10-2015, 12:09 AM
Is that with assembly? That's about $100 more than what I have into my 9" (Moser housing, 35 sp axles, Wavetrac, Yukon aluminum thru-bolt center, alum daytona pinion support, Motive 3.90s) but I did the assembly myself.
I don't really see the point in the going with the S-trac in an S60 unless you're making crazy power and killing clutch lsds constantly. The worm gear diffs are supposed to hold high power on the strip and road course but the S60 is more geared towards drag only. Medium power and mainly strip/street are fine with clutch units, it will save you a ton of money.
I actually can't find where I got that 2600 from for S-trac because I don't see it in strange's site now lol. It looks like the only options I'm seeing are truetrac, locker and spool. Spool isn't happening. Haven't read into truetrac.. But have heard it called truecrap.. Locker...? It has detroit in it.. I live near detroit. That's all I got
popo8
11-10-2015, 06:13 AM
If ur an M6... stay away from a locker. Ita what I run and its violent and noisy and when around people, and turning tight, people think ur car is broken. Lol. Ask me how i know. Behind an auto... much smoother.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
shownomercy
11-10-2015, 07:12 AM
I have a trutrac in my S60, no complaints.
97firehawk
11-10-2015, 08:37 AM
My s60 with a trutrac is quiet and it works every time. ( M6 car ) http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/10/c2805599ad4b8b26d9b9aa7648ae855e.jpg
Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
Catmaigne
11-10-2015, 09:05 AM
http://www.strangeengineering.net/high-performance-street/dana-60-s60-mopar-8-components/differentials/dana-60-35-spline-trac-lok-3-series.html
Look over on LS1tech and you will see people bitching about their broken truetracs with as little as 400rwhp and M6. One guy even cracked the case. Also, the Eaton warranty is crap compared to the S-trac or Wavetrac lifetime warranties.
Oh ok. The S-trac is traclok..
Trutrac I think gets a 1 year warranty. S-trac and wavetrac is lifetime.
Catmaigne
11-10-2015, 11:42 AM
S-trac is not Trac-lok. It's a gear posi like torsen, wavetrac, quaife, truetrac, etc. Trac-lok is a Ford term for a regular clutch posi.
I knew that [emoji38] I just woke up!
Catmaigne
11-10-2015, 11:46 AM
Eaton won't honor the warranty if you use it for racing. It says for "private passenger cars and light trucks under normal operating conditions" right in there.
I don't even understand that. That's silly. Nobody buys a rear end to not race.. Like come on..
Trutrac looks like it ain't happening. I can't even find S-trac anywhere.
Edit: I found it fam
Brake light came on lol. It's the brake booster me thinks. Brakes feel like shit though. Maybe I got a ruptured line too [emoji38]
Injuneer
11-10-2015, 05:39 PM
A fault with the brake booster won't turn on the "BRAKE" light. It indicates unbalanced pressure between the front and rear hydraulic circuits. Or the switch on the side of the ABS motor pack is stuck.
I don't know now. Did do it on the way home. My braking is so.. Bad lol. It either works great or it brakes crappy. I do plan on using my job discount to get some new pads and rotors as well as rebuild my rears. Might entertain c5 brakes up front. It all depends on how much this rear is going to eat my ass.
Inconsistent was the word I was looking for
Injuneer
11-10-2015, 09:40 PM
Unequal pressure can be the result of fluid leaks, or air in a line. It's not telling you you need new pads or rotors... Caliper(s) maybe.
My rear calipers are sticky I think. Or all 4 are. It seems to get its braking power back after the brakes haven't been use. Plus the rears sqeak when I'm going in reverse and I just released the brakes.. It's brake squeak too.
Now would I be better off getting remans from autoparts store or rebuilding them?
Looked into remans. Yeah... No not getting those. Just going to "rebuild" them.
Oh and I'm gonna paint all four of them Super hot pink!
shownomercy
11-12-2015, 02:01 PM
LS1 upgrade time.
Not worth dropping money on the LT1 OE stuff if you are doing it all IMO.
Even for the rears? I have been interested ls1 front brakes. It's just a matter of finding them at an acceptable cost.
Catmaigne
11-12-2015, 02:14 PM
You can get the "LS1" rears off of a 98-02 V6 car. There is no difference between the two. Make sure to get the backing plates w/drums, e-brake brackets, calipers, cables, and hardware.
Also, the LS1 rears are mandatory if you get a 9" with tapered bearings. For some reason the the LT1s don't work or require some goofy spacer that's impossible to get.
You can get the "LS1" rears off of a 98-02 V6 car. There is no difference between the two. Make sure to get the backing plates w/drums, e-brake brackets, calipers, cables, and hardware.
Also, the LS1 rears are mandatory if you get a 9" with tapered bearings. For some reason the the LT1s don't work or require some goofy spacer that's impossible to get.
Gracias. And thanks for the extra Information. You the man man.
I think I hurt my rear yesterday..
I was driving home and it was pouring rain. Took a turn, and started spinning the tires. No big deal. Then I remembered I was turning into a very shitty road that's bumpy as hell. Needless to say, I got some wheelhop and hear a metal clank sound coming from the rear. It feels ok today but it sounded no Bueno yesterday. It's definitely feels different.. Don't know how to explain this difference.
shownomercy
11-13-2015, 07:07 PM
Will sell a nice S60 with 3.73s, and DS !
I'll give you $1111 and my ten bolt ;)
shownomercy
11-13-2015, 07:41 PM
That may cover shipping.
Damn son you won't let me pick it up
shownomercy
11-13-2015, 07:55 PM
I would get a good laugh at you trying to pick it up, so may knock a few bucks off price.
I'll just shoot up some steroids and fly home with it.
Are you seriously considering selling it or are you pulling my leg man. You know I'm gullible
shownomercy
11-13-2015, 08:12 PM
If I got what I would want, yes, serious about selling.
Pm me the price if ya want to. Doubt I'll be able to afford it but it's worth a shot ;)
dawdaw
11-13-2015, 08:21 PM
You can get the "LS1" rears off of a 98-02 V6 car. There is no difference between the two. Make sure to get the backing plates w/drums, e-brake brackets, calipers, cables, and hardware.
Also, the LS1 rears are mandatory if you get a 9" with tapered bearings. For some reason the the LT1s don't work or require some goofy spacer that's impossible to get.
Why you say this . I had a moser 9 inch with functional 4 wheel abs and factory brakes and backing plates with tapered bearings.
Am I missing something obvious or am I correct on this..
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/13/42bb1d4b4c6f3f354582e5984b6fb916.jpg
Catmaigne
11-13-2015, 09:39 PM
Maybe because I had 3 channel abs? I was told I needed ls1 rears for tapered bearings. I know the regular bearings would have been fine with stock brakes.
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
shownomercy
11-13-2015, 09:48 PM
Center section either blows and or, is not assembled.
Catmaigne
11-13-2015, 09:52 PM
http://imgur.com/INZUBiH.jpg Right from their site
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
dawdaw
11-14-2015, 07:09 AM
Ill see if i can get my piece of crap Toshiba to connect to WiFi. It has some pics on It
I'm in the process of buying something that will make the car funky
Formula218
11-17-2015, 01:00 PM
cool.
Formula218
11-17-2015, 03:29 PM
shits lame.
Catmaigne
11-17-2015, 04:32 PM
Goodbye torque
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
SJx408
11-17-2015, 08:35 PM
^ this.
Unless you strap a snail to it or spray all the NAWWWWWS
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lol if I was 5.3 swapping... Come on guys.
I am buying a 24x kit however ;)
Bolt on 24x lt1 #Yolo
I have a really annoying sound coming from the hatch area. It's sounds like the sqeak mice make every time I hit a bump. Most annoying shit ever.
Could it be shocks or bump stops potentially? Halp Halp Halp pls
Formula218
11-20-2015, 08:23 AM
Maybe it's your echo??? lol
In my car i get a lot of squeaking from my sway bar, but nothing in the rear i can think of. my car is gutted though so inside is like a coffee can full of stones.
SJx408
11-20-2015, 12:07 PM
I'm thinking Lca bushings or something like that, I get the same type of squeak when I hit bumps. My sway bar bushings are poly since I swapped to UMI stuff. Any old rubber bushings are probably the culprit imo.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well, I'll replace my LCAs because I still haven't put my new ones on lol. They are slightly bent.. My hatch also bounces it seems like too, as if it's not closed all the way but it is. Don't know if that's just a 4th gen thing.
I'll also replace the sway bar bushings.
It's supposed to snow 5 to 8 inches tomorrow too.. God damn
Formula218
11-20-2015, 12:26 PM
It's supposed to snow 5 to 8 inches tomorrow too.. God damn
Woohoooo!!! finally.
Perfect timing to start pulling it apart for the bushing replacement!
dawdaw
11-20-2015, 01:35 PM
Are you going to be able to put lca on ? The engine and trans have to be pulled because the torque arm attaches to your tachometer and oxygen sensors bro.
Uh oh spaghetti O's!!!
I can do it, I'm just so.... lazy!
I am going 24x this winter. Will post pics when I get the shit in the mail.
I HAS QUESTIONS!
5.3 or LS1 coils?
Mount location..? Under cowl, over valve covers or above the splash panels!?
Oh and bought c5 brake conversion
Formula218
11-26-2015, 11:26 AM
The truck coils with the heat sinks on them.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_i_tTOU9EJeM/S3tEwc6g-DI/AAAAAAAAABs/QlOmvMTjRrQ/s400/2010-02-02%2017.55.06.jpg?source=mog&hl=en&gl=us
Injuneer
11-26-2015, 01:47 PM
I HAS QUESTIONS!
Mount location..? Under cowl, over valve covers or above the splash panels!?
I have my coils mounted right behind the lower radiator support, totally out of sight.
I have my coils mounted right behind the lower radiator support, totally out of sight.
Any downsides to this for a DD? I thought about doing what you did but am afraid rain will be a nono.
Injuneer
11-26-2015, 05:43 PM
I've driven it in pouring rain w/ no problems. Wire routing w/ AS&M's on an LT1 very clean. A buddy of mine w/ the same setup on a blown LT1 lost his plug wires though, when the blower belt let go.
I've driven it in pouring rain w/ no problems. Wire routing w/ AS&M's on an LT1 very clean. A buddy of mine w/ the same setup on a blown LT1 lost his plug wires though, when the blower belt let go.
That's great to hear. If I can figure out how to fabricate that's the route I'm going to go. I already have some pics of your setup from another thread :D
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/27/b0eddebb8bed5477810b1d374386a602.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/27/b5e91c66542ff6c5a36fe3724641adab.jpg
Yay
popo8
11-27-2015, 06:58 PM
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/27/b0eddebb8bed5477810b1d374386a602.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/27/b5e91c66542ff6c5a36fe3724641adab.jpg
Yay
Congrats man... now make sure to do an install write up. Remember we have many members that have done thw upgrade, like Fastbird for his friend Ben.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
I already know I'll have plenty of questions. Thank you Mr popo!
My cousin will be helping somewhat. He's built and entire harness so repining won't be a big deal for either of us. I'm excited lol
I have my first question. The case relearn.. That is only for the crank sensor right? So I don't need that since I'm not replacing mine or am I wrong?
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/30/f453a57856a49c8309705436a0017460.jpg
Thinking about these to mount the coils on. Whatcha think boys?
Also this
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/30/6b04d94934706ff3c8eb6b94a3720ce0.jpg
popo8
11-30-2015, 09:53 PM
A butterfly license plate frame will be HOTTTT!
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
Got the turd's garage ready for a big black turd to go inside of it. Then I'm going to start tearing shit down to get dat 24x in yo.
shownomercy
12-01-2015, 03:59 PM
You are replacing your POS LT1 CPS with a new LS1 awesomeness one.
You are replacing your POS LT1 CPS with a new LS1 awesomeness one.
Yaaay. Got any advice for me? It'd be much appreciated
popo8
12-01-2015, 06:12 PM
You are replacing your POS LT1 CPS with a new LS1 awesomeness one.
Lol... ur so mean.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
shownomercy
12-01-2015, 07:09 PM
Yaaay. Got any advice for me? It'd be much appreciated
You unbolt the stock CPS (prob a 10mm), replace with the new LS1 CPS, torque to bink and then plug in.
If you do your harness right, its about as plug and pray as you can get.
plug and pray.
Das a funny thing ja
shownomercy
12-01-2015, 07:56 PM
If your cousin has done a 24x harness what are you worried about?
He didn't do a 24x harness, he made from scratch a 94 harness for his old car.
I have the diy kit.. It's a case of plug and pray. My only issue is the coil powering because I'm slightly electrically retarded but I know a lot more than 3 months ago so..
Have no fear, I'm not completely brain dead yet!
shownomercy
12-01-2015, 08:06 PM
Repin everything, then worry about coil power.
It should be easy and don't cut/splice/fucking wire nut anything.
dawdaw
12-01-2015, 08:23 PM
With 24x i think u will pick up at.least 50 horses to the tire.
Repin everything, then worry about coil power.
It should be easy and don't cut/splice/fucking wire nut anything.
If anything has to be cut, it will be reattached via solder. Fuck wire nuts!
With 24x i think u will pick up at.least 50 horses to the tire.
50 horses? Yeeeeee haw!
shownomercy
12-02-2015, 08:02 AM
You shouldn't cut anything though.
Exactly. Going to start it after finals are over.
Thoughts on who I should send the pcm to for the tune?
dawdaw
12-02-2015, 02:58 PM
Exactly. Going to start it after finals are over.
Thoughts on who I should send the pcm to for the tune?
Id ask if moe.does 24x.
U just have a stock lt1, shouldn't be anything hard to tune
Yeah. I'll shoot him a pm once it's all in there and ready to gogo.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/02/a49a0dd31087d20f1da4b80cf39abf0d.jpg. This is how I want to mount em. Well, I'm going to try lol
popo8
12-03-2015, 06:14 AM
Yeah. I'll shoot him a pm once it's all in there and ready to gogo.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/02/a49a0dd31087d20f1da4b80cf39abf0d.jpg. This is how I want to mount em. Well, I'm going to try lol
That looks very nice...
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
That looks very nice...
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
I agree. One more week until I begin looks like!
popo8
12-03-2015, 08:24 PM
I agree. One more week until I begin looks like!
Just remember to take lots of pics and keep ur build thread up to date for those of us following.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
Formula218
12-03-2015, 09:31 PM
Does that camera you got have a time lapse setting? or your phone? it's cool to set it up and make a video of your self working on the car then you have a clip that makes it look like you really know what you're doing because you're moving a million miles a minute lol.
We did this one with my bird.
https://vimeo.com/147801599
Probably. I do plan on taking a ton of photos. I have a couple dedicated folders on my computer all set for the install..
Going to try and make some fuel rail covers unless someone wants to make some for me :D
Also need to do the wire tuck mod because my engine bay looks like someone took a huge shit in it and wiped it all over the place
Two questions.
What is this lol. I believe it's the crank sprocket thing? Do I need to change it out since I already have a crank sensor? (97)
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/03/de552928462b64e5442cfa676e2c49ba.jpg
Catmaigne
12-03-2015, 10:36 PM
That is a 24x reluctor for a single chain. Yes, you need to swap it out. The stock one is only 4x.
Thoughts on replacing the timing chain?
shownomercy
12-04-2015, 01:16 PM
Thoughts on replacing the timing chain?
Do it, use a bike chain and wrap it twice.
More protection
Do it, use a bike chain and wrap it twice.
More protection
Damn I never would have thought of that!
95albinobird
12-05-2015, 10:05 PM
dan the double roller cover you will need to go with the 24x is :bigmoney2:any where from 375 to 450 plus electric water pump......the stock unit lasts plenty long and can take a beating a new 1 will probably outlast the car
https://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/24xLT1.aspx
I was thinking about just putting a gm replacement one on. But if ya'll don't think I should I wont. Just wanted to ask.
:)
Catmaigne
12-05-2015, 11:52 PM
You can't run a double roller with that reluctor anyway. The only way to have double roller and room for the crank sensor is to buy the low pro reluctor and the billet timing cover. Then the electric water pump is required. Just stick with a stock timing set.
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
Formula218
12-06-2015, 08:51 AM
geez, it looks like it costs more to go 24x than to just swap in a whole 5.3 lol.
How so? I'm only in the hole $300ish after selling some things. I don't have to do anything with my trans either..
popo8
12-06-2015, 09:09 AM
Andddddd... he remains true blue LTX!
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
Formula218
12-06-2015, 10:54 AM
How so? I'm only in the hole $300ish after selling some things. I don't have to do anything with my trans either..
Just from looking at the prices of stuff in the link albinobird posted. Granted I don't know what things are all required to do the conversion, just seems like it would add up quick. I only spent about $1200 for my whole swap when it was said and done w/ LTs and a tubular K. I actually made money from converting my trans so definitely no complaints there lol.
Just from looking at the prices of stuff in the link albinobird posted. Granted I don't know what things are all required to do the conversion, just seems like it would add up quick. I only spent about $1200 for my whole swap when it was said and done w/ LTs and a tubular K. I actually made money from converting my trans so definitely no complaints there lol.
That's for a double roller setup. I'll probably never get to that point
Andddddd... he remains true blue LTX!
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
Blue like my c5 calipers that I bought from Fastbird whooooo dooogggy!
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/f452bd15ff48e76eab26d7f39774c568.jpg
Pic for attention. Not on my car
popo8
12-06-2015, 12:36 PM
I saw that... awesome to see the progress. Just wait till u r not in school and have MONEY! Look what happened to me. Lol
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
Formula218
12-06-2015, 04:13 PM
That's for a double roller setup. I'll probably never get to that point
Ohh okay, so that's sorta the cream of the crop for 24x conversions?
also, woowhoo for upgraded calipers! Doing SSB lines while you're in there? what pads?
Catmaigne
12-06-2015, 04:33 PM
The double roller is only really necessary for the solid roller and boosted guys who need higher spring pressures.
My double roller 24x swap was around $730~ for everything but any money saved got dumped into the single plane.
Ohh okay, so that's sorta the cream of the crop for 24x conversions?
also, woowhoo for upgraded calipers! Doing SSB lines while you're in there? what pads?
Ye. Getting em from founders. Going to get ceramic pads from work likely
I found dark stars for ~450 lol I need to close the wallet.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fel-tcs45956?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQiA-ZSzBRDp3ITHm5KO_JYBEiQA1JjHHENSFVG52FABZX9mzJId-Ad1V1BjhctYfdpGgS7cJNEaAqCs8P8HAQ
I got this gasket set from work. Was cheaper than summit! I couldn't believe it!
My face when I beat summits price at work: http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/07/3f024b62d98daf9e2c46dda35cf31ee8.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/09/d5b64dcb15765e1d8e0a2eeab529ff62.jpg
Got the car in the garage. Last time it will move with an optispark. Hopefully the 24x install goes smoothly
popo8
12-09-2015, 07:02 PM
Good luck.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/11/cfedfa15e62010148689aef5ebbb57c0.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/11/30557fee64269f325b919641e2f33535.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/11/5a9f7d5307f87a505812e44e06822b98.jpg
Formula218
12-11-2015, 12:58 PM
Fancy Schmancy!
They sure are! What am I going to do about my rears? They are this ugly red.. A little lazy to repaint them.. Should I just leave em?
Formula218
12-11-2015, 01:08 PM
I'd paint them, you can be lazy about it and it still look decent.
find a can of high temp paint that matches your fronts, hit them with a wire brush and some brake clean. tape off the rotors (i just wrapped an old rag around mine) and spray away! you might want to hit them with some self etching primer to cover up the red if it doesn't come off with the wire brush and brake clean. When i did my CTS-v brakes i painted my rears like this and they still look fine. I sprayed the brackets black and the calipers them self silver. since people will onlt ever see the one side facing it i didn't feel the need to make them perfect.
Yeah. I'll get some paint from O'Reilly. I asked Sean what paint was used and the guy he. Bought it from used autozone blue so. Might even paint the rears black.
I do want to paint /powdercoat the conversion bracket a crazy color though :D
Formula218
12-11-2015, 02:25 PM
Will those calipers bolt up to LS spindles? I found out that my Brembos bolt directly to the spindles so i didn't have to use brackets. To me that was one less aftermarket part I have to worry about failing.
No. The c5 brakes won't mount up. The ls spindle just requires one less ear bring cut off.
I still need to order the stainless front lines and torque arm from founders. Also ordering a lakewood drive shaft safety loop in the spring.
Better picture of these purty brakes!
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/11/04a0c5d9b6916155f2baeeac1ee0cb5f.jpg
shownomercy
12-11-2015, 06:33 PM
You bought a 'vette??
Ya you wanna see a picture of it?
shownomercy
12-11-2015, 06:43 PM
Of course, a vette is much cooler than a fbod!
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/11/a272a4c623ed0dc68e81c926db6d6961.jpg
That's all you get to see!
I've decided. Once the conversion brackets come in, I will be getting them powder coated.. The color, well that's a secret for now
shownomercy
12-11-2015, 07:00 PM
Sparkly pink.
Sparkly pink.
34824
FUCK YEAH!
I'm serious about it though. Won't really be able to see it so.. why not?
Vicious95Z28
12-12-2015, 10:20 PM
The double roller is only really necessary for the solid roller and boosted guys who need higher spring pressures.
My double roller 24x swap was around $730~ for everything but any money saved got dumped into the single plane.
That's not a bad price, how'd you get by so cheap?
Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
Catmaigne
12-12-2015, 10:49 PM
That's not a bad price, how'd you get by so cheap?
Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
Using a vortec distributor for 1x cam signal instead of EFI's CMP on the timing cover. Junkyard PCM with connectors, junkyard D585 coil packs/coil harnesses/misc pigtails, billet cover from TPIS ($325), 24x reluctor from EFI, and mah boi SNM hooked me up with the coil pack harnesses to repin my factory one. I also picked the EFI valve cover coil brackets and MSD 8.5mm plug wire kit on a FB group for $80 shipped.
The vortec dizzy means you'd either have to have the stock intake manifold machined for it (more money than it's worth) or swap to single plane. I chose the latter because my build was already out of control.
The whole 24x swap would have been half as much had I kept it single roller.
Vicious95Z28
12-12-2015, 11:06 PM
I see, save money in one area and spend big somewhere else.
Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
Catmaigne
12-12-2015, 11:17 PM
Not necessarily, the single plane can be somewhat cheaply with angle washers, water neck block off plate, and some pipe plugs. All you have to do is enlarge some holes and drill/tap 2 on each side in the head but that saves a few hundred of machining/welding. I have about $550 into mine right now (manifold, rails, elbow, 90mm throttle body, etc.) and there are only a few small things left to fab. Considering the alternative is getting a ported LT4 intake, 58mm throttle body, and modding the fuel rails for parallel, it doesn't end up being that much more.
Ordered my stainless front brake lines. Should see those in a few days then it's cutting time!
shownomercy
12-13-2015, 10:50 AM
Ordered my stainless front brake lines. Should see those in a few days then it's cutting time!
cutting wut?
cutting wut?
Spindles for teh c5 brakez yo
ALRIGHT BITCHES WHAT UP!!!! I GOT MY CONVERSION BRACKETS IN FROM THE GREAT NATION OF Canada. I'm going to start bashing everybody now because f ya'll!!
No but really. I received my c5 brake conversion brackets and the SSB brake lines as well. I'm going to start tomorrow I think. I also received my pcm bracket but I'm going to be on the lookout for a 0411 just because.
EFI recommends the Kent Moore installer and puller to remove the crank hub, would anybody happen to have one? I don't want to spend 200 and I'm a trustworthy person!
shownomercy
12-16-2015, 09:02 PM
Just do it like every other smuck LT1 owner and three jaw that bitch off.
Is that what the great SNM would use?
shownomercy
12-16-2015, 09:24 PM
Negative, I have an ATI, I just sing sweet things to it and it comes off.
Can you try and sign sweet things to mine?
Also, anybody got an AC delete pulley hanging around or does anybody want to sell me one :)
popo8
12-16-2015, 10:55 PM
Can you try and sign sweet things to mine?
Also, anybody got an AC delete pulley hanging around or does anybody want to sell me one :)
I actually got ine with the impala I bought from SSlowBoat. I had him put the ac compressor back in the car, so its available.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
popo8
12-16-2015, 11:23 PM
SSlowBoat will this work on his car. I remember u were explaining to me it would require some washers...
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
If it won't work, I can always relocate dat alternator. I got some pretty valve covers up stairs.
Or I can get it from werk
popo8
12-16-2015, 11:38 PM
If it won't work, I can always relocate dat alternator. I got some pretty valve covers up stairs.
Or I can get it from werk
Ill PM u then.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/16/5fdbf301c2eb7a20785530d4cbdbe62d.jpg
If it looks like this or is oem it will work. They both call for the same pulley thingy.
popo8
12-16-2015, 11:47 PM
Pm and tapatalk message sent
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
GIGGLED and responded. That was funny. Thanks man. Appreciate it.
popo8
12-17-2015, 12:03 AM
GIGGLED and responded. That was funny. Thanks man. Appreciate it.
Lol. Glad u enjoyed. No problem man.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
SSlowBoat
12-17-2015, 11:41 PM
yes it will work, on a fbody you will have to space it off the main bracket with 2 fender washers between the bracket and ac delete pulley bracket, otherwise, the belt wont align well and can shred Dan
yes it will work, on a fbody you will have to space it off the main bracket with 2 fender washers between the bracket and ac delete pulley bracket, otherwise, the belt wont align well and can shred Dan
Thanks for the heads up.
I still haven't done shit to it yet. Been too lazy honestly. I will be starting the brake swap tomorrow if all goes well.
I got the rear on ramps and front on stands. Just need to remove all shit so I can get at the knuckle.
Disappointed in myself. Haven't done jack shit to the car with all the free time I've had.
Need to relocate the alternator because I have some pretty valve covers up in the attic. Might just pull the $379.99 and just get the bolt on bracket to save me the headache. Thoughts?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160106/d97a8194e323925e2fd97f1d2a29f125.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160106/a98c1df4fa68c371961a00c630aead07.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160106/a6152d49ec53c1c0f7ded115773c8948.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160106/48bfc5fbc59cb26aa556f0cf82455077.jpg
Did the passenger side today with my friend. Lord Jesus they look fucking beautiful. The piston on the stock one was bent out, dunno why, but I know it was causing my braking issues. It also was significantly heavier than the Corvette ones. The saw I used cut the iron like a hot knife through butter. It feels good to do shit to the car again. I honestly feel so much better. Now I gotta do the other side and take a peek at the rears.
PoloGreenZ
01-07-2016, 02:33 PM
Looks good dude. How much bigger are the calipers compared to the stock?
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk
shownomercy
01-07-2016, 02:38 PM
Call up Kyle and make a DIY low mount alt setup, OR, I can sell you one. ;)
Looks good dude. How much bigger are the calipers compared to the stock?
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk
Thanks man. Couldn't tell you the size difference, but they sure are pretty. The rotors are 2 inches bigger I believe. Here's a comparison pic.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160107/8482602a443c70e380762551713320f8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160107/c8c6fb6ce2e15adbbf9c3be806a017b9.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160107/506e64a652e5bc7fc89263d15a7ab6ec.jpg
Call up Kyle and make a DIY low mount alt setup, OR, I can sell you one. ;)
If the one you're selling keeps power steering, of course I'd be interested! You know I love spending money. :)
shownomercy
01-07-2016, 04:40 PM
Its a simple setup based off the stock brackets. Like so
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg190/sweetbmxrider/IMG_7771-1.jpg?t=1258597795
Its a simple setup based off the stock brackets. Like so
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg190/sweetbmxrider/IMG_7771-1.jpg?t=1258597795
Looks pretty simple. I'll have to do that then. Thank you.
Catmaigne
01-07-2016, 07:51 PM
Here's another one http://diysrc.com/lt1-engine-alternator-relocation/
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
Here's another one http://diysrc.com/lt1-engine-alternator-relocation/
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
That's the one I'm looking at. Seems like they did pretty much the same thing.
The valve covers won't work. They are perimeter, not center bolt. Maaaaaan, they look so damn good too! Still going to relocate it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160108/212367fc89a8f18364aad615d5293a51.jpg
Formula218
01-08-2016, 03:23 PM
[QUOTE=Dan;455545]That's the one I'm looking at. Seems like they did pretty much the same thing.
The valve covers won't work. They are perimeter, not center bolt. Maaaaaan, they look so damn good too! Still going to relocate it. [QUOTE]
nothing a drill won't fix!
Ok. It's late and I'm thinking about something here. I'm thinking about a LE2 heads and cam package. Now, I do not want to go crazy with a cam. I would keep it on the tamer side of the spectrum. It's my daily driver. I'm not going to set any records in it. The LE2 package would probably land me in the 370-400 rwhp range.
The reason I am thinking about doing this is because I think my rear main is leaking again. I have to go over the motor and check everything again. I'm going to need a new clutch regardless if I go forth with the LE2 package.
Thoughts? Should I do a LE1 package instead? I'm keeping this car as my DD during the spring - summer - fall remember :)
Edit: would be willing to just stay cam only top :D
Edit 2: How about a cc503? Like I said, I'm not trying to go super fast here :)
popo8
01-10-2016, 08:23 AM
I would talk to LE. U can explain it to him (he is awesome to talk to on the phone or in person) exactly what u want and he can make it happen. He is not the kind of guy to point u in the direction of something more expensive to just benefit himself.
My experience... the cam or top end does not take away driveability. To me... it makes driveability more fun. My camaro makes a hair over 600rwhp... with huge afr heads a custom cam from LE and its stroked and blown. I dd that car all summer and apring before i increased the fleet, Ac and all. Even did the 1480 mole round trip drive to the shootout. With thw 6 spd and 410s in the old 10 bolt i still did 22mpg.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
I would talk to LE. U can explain it to him (he is awesome to talk to on the phone or in person) exactly what u want and he can make it happen. He is not the kind of guy to point u in the direction of something more expensive to just benefit himself.
My experience... the cam or top end does not take away driveability. To me... it makes driveability more fun. My camaro makes a hair over 600rwhp... with huge afr heads a custom cam from LE and its stroked and blown. I dd that car all summer and apring before i increased the fleet, Ac and all. Even did the 1480 mole round trip drive to the shootout. With thw 6 spd and 410s in the old 10 bolt i still did 22mpg.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
Thanks for the advice. I do plan on calling Lloyd to get his opinion.
Dumb question. Will 93 heads work on my car? $150 sound like a reasonable price for them?
dawdaw
01-12-2016, 10:37 AM
Your car has #561 castings. The 93 threw 95 had #374 and #643 castings. Im unaware of any differences other then the 561s have less material in them. NightTrain66 can tell you
I got my ac delete pulley from popo8 thanks man :)
Your car has #561 castings. The 93 threw 95 had #374 and #643 castings. Im unaware of any differences other then the 561s have less material in them. NightTrain66 can tell you
They should bolt up. I don't see any aftermarket heads being for certain years.
NightTrain66
01-12-2016, 10:58 PM
They will all swap out from 93-97.
The 97 model 561 castings flow a lil better in stock form but have a lil less material when FULLY porting and installing larger valves. They are fine for most people's porting and stock valves but when being maxed out they are a lil limited.
Lloyd
They will all swap out from 93-97.
The 97 model 561 castings flow a lil better in stock form but have a lil less material when FULLY porting and installing larger valves. They are fine for most people's porting and stock valves but when being maxed out they are a lil limited.
Lloyd
The perfect answer I wanted to hear. Picking up a set of 374 heads and to sent your way when I get adequate funds!
If i'ma pull the damn timing cover, might as well heads and cam the son of a bitch
popo8
01-13-2016, 06:45 AM
I got my ac delete pulley from popo8 thanks man :)
My pleasure.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
popo8
01-13-2016, 06:46 AM
The perfect answer I wanted to hear. Picking up a set of 374 heads and to sent your way when I get adequate funds!
If i'ma pull the damn timing cover, might as well heads and cam the son of a bitch
Welcome to building a car. The "while Im in there" factor can get out of control. Lol.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
Welcome to building a car. The "while Im in there" factor can get out of control. Lol.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
Ohoh it's already up to 800 in parts ahaha. I need to replace lifters too.
What head gaskets would you guys recommend for me? GM, felpro?
shownomercy
01-13-2016, 02:28 PM
Felpro/Victor Reinz, the .026 impy gaskets
Well, I'm not spending $720 on gm lifters. That's fucking absurd. Seal Power lifters at work at MUCH cheaper. Anybody have any other lifter recommendations?
Aaaaannnndd I found them cheaper on summit. Fucking dealers
shownomercy
01-13-2016, 03:25 PM
http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?27418-Lifter-Suggestions&highlight=lifter
LE and Karl give suggestions for low spring load budget lifters.
Are ls7 lifters really junk? Gawd dayum $$$
shownomercy
01-13-2016, 05:46 PM
No, they are a hit or miss, but thats the same with anything. What do you want to spend on lifters, and or, why are you ditching the stockers?
I had one bad set, out of four I dealt with personally. But for me, one set of lifters ate a cam, so thats a hard thing to get over.
No, they are a hit or miss, but thats the same with anything. What do you want to spend on lifters, and or, why are you ditching the stockers?
I had one bad set, out of four I dealt with personally. But for me, one set of lifters ate a cam, so thats a hard thing to get over.
I don't want to have to win the lottery to get lifters. But I will spend the money for quality. Stockers have 111k miles and I'm nearly sure I do have a lifter tick. I have to pull the headers off first and check those gaskets if they are blown before I spend any money on lifters. Plus I am upgrading the cam.
shownomercy
01-13-2016, 06:02 PM
Look into the PN Lloyd put up, they are only a couple hundred AFAIK and will get you better quality control than OE produced mexican LS7s
Yep. $80 more for quality, I'll take those.
Thanks for the advice man, it is much appreciated
shownomercy
01-13-2016, 06:23 PM
If you want, ask the man himself... NightTrain66
NightTrain66
01-13-2016, 07:15 PM
Lunati 72910-16 is good for the $200 prive range of lifters.
Lloyd
popo8
01-13-2016, 07:37 PM
Are ls7 lifters really junk? Gawd dayum $$$
I run them in the camaro...
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
shownomercy
01-13-2016, 07:38 PM
I run them in the camaro...
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
Which was bought at least a few years ago no?
popo8
01-13-2016, 07:48 PM
Which was bought at least a few years ago no?
Oh yeah. They have at least 4 years and 10k on them. And alot of red line pulls on the dyno.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
shownomercy
01-13-2016, 07:49 PM
Yea, pretty sure at some point within the last couple years the location of manufacture changed or quality control changed on em. Pure conjecture on my part but thats my feeling on em.
popo8
01-13-2016, 08:02 PM
Yea, pretty sure at some point within the last couple years the location of manufacture changed or quality control changed on em. Pure conjecture on my part but thats my feeling on em.
I agree.
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
I think I'm going with the lunati lifters. Does anybody got a part number for Morels?
Catmaigne
01-14-2016, 08:42 PM
I think Lunati 72438-16 is what Lloyd recommended. I'm guessing they're a Morel street series w/o link bar.
The ones Karl told me about were Crower 66330-16.
shownomercy
01-14-2016, 09:42 PM
Morel/Lunati are interchangeable I believe, one is the manufacturer and the other slaps their name on em.
Ah ok. That's what the Internet told me too. Lunati it is :)
Thanks again you guys. Ya'll the bestest
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/ram-98516
This is the clutch I think I'm going to go with.
96z28SideSwype
01-21-2016, 03:47 PM
I like Spec clutchs I have a stage 2 in my car and it grabs good so does my dads talk to 96LT1355Z28 hes a spec dealer
I like Spec clutchs I have a stage 2 in my car and it grabs good so does my dads talk to 96LT1355Z28 hes a spec dealer
What's the driveability like? And how many miles have you put on it? I honestly will only put 6-8k miles a season on this turd mobile
I believe my cousin had a ram clutch and that shit grabbed and he DD'd it even through a winter!
96z28SideSwype
01-21-2016, 04:51 PM
I don't daily mine but I do like the bite to it and its a little tough on your leg but that just means you never skip leg day lol miles I probably have maybe 800 if that cars been down with opti for a little bit and I haven't been driving.
96z28SideSwype
01-21-2016, 04:59 PM
I bought mine from 96LT1355Z28 also it was quick and painless for me it did cost a little bit more then the one you're looking at but mine is the puck style for racing I wouldn't go away from Spec I like the feel and how it grabs, I run a duralast in my daily Lifetime warranty FTW lol they last about a year to a year and a half for me but yeah I probably put about 10K miles a year on that car
I will get in contact with 96LT1355Z28 as soon as I can afford to order the clutch. Again, I appreciate the feed back 96z28SideSwype
Alls I ask out of a clutch is that it isn't a pile of turd I have to replace all the time. I'd expect at least two years out of any clutch given the amount of time I drive the car.
Can't swing a street twin sadly :(
Spec stage 2 it is. Got a ton of knowledge on clutches now thanks to our friendly sponsor. :)
For some reason, I'm a little nervous about the heads and cam swap. Not nervous that I can't do it. Nervous I'm gonna lose muh motor. Oil pressure has always been great. Read too many threads online about motor failure lol
Idk, maybe it's the fact that this will be the first time I ever do any engine work. It'll be a great learning experience at least.
What should I be replacing while I'm inside the motor?
popo8
01-24-2016, 08:33 AM
"Nervous Im gonna lose muh motor..." What do u mean by that, and why do u feel that way?
LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN
Formula218
01-24-2016, 08:50 AM
He's afraid he won't be able to find the motor. Dan, try putting an orange flag or a flashing light on the motor so it's easier to spot if you lose it.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.