800 hp n/a lt-1

[Camaro96]

First off I'm not sure this is the right area for this post? If it's not area sorry pop8 please move to correct area. Thanks pop8[emoji4]


I have been searching the form to see of anyone has posted about making an LT -1 N/A make 800 HP.

What I have 1996 LT -1 that is a 383 mild build cast scat crank forged I beam scat 5.7 rods, stock LT -1 head castings mild ported and polished head, stock intake ported and matched to heads, 58 mm throttle body, shorty headers 1 3/4, 3 cat back exhausted.

I'm starting to gather parts for my next up grade. I know I need to go splayed caps not sure wich ones would be best to get? Can I stay at the 383 displacement or do I need to increase cubic inches?
Is to better to stay with the stock rod length or increase to 6.0 rod leangth?
As for the heads and cam what would be best? .
I would like to make around 800 horse power at the flywheel and have it steel be street able.

All input would be appreciated

[Camaro96]

I have been searching the form to see of anyone has posted about making an LT -1 N/A make 800 HP.

What I have 1996 LT -1 that is a 383 mild build cast scat crank forged I beam scat 5.7 rods, stock LT -1 head castings mild ported and polished head, stock intake ported and matched to heads, 58 mm throttle body, shorty headers 1 3/4, 3 cat back exhausted. The cam specs are as follows LT-4 hot cam believe specs are 218 int/ 228 ext 525 lift int/ext

I'm starting to gather parts for my next up grade. I know I need to go splayed caps not sure wich ones would be best to get? Can I stay at the 383 displacement or do I need to increase cubic inches
Is to better to stay with the stock rod length or increase to 6.0 rod leangth?
As for the heads and cam what would be best?
Do I need to go to a sheet metal intake

I would like to make around 800 horse power at the flywheel and have it steel be street able.

All input would be appreciated

[BIG CAT]

I would like to make around 800 horse power at the flywheel and have it still be street able

imo not going to happen my friend. if you what those types of numbers and truly streetable you should go with a 540 or 565.

[firebird_1995]

That is going to be a tough feat. Just shooting from the hip I'm going to say you're going to be looking at 396 cubic inches at a minimum. Fully hogged out AFR 227 heads, masssive solid roller cam, single plane or sheet metal intake, fully forged bottom end, low tension piston rings, crankcase vacuum pump custom headers, race fuel, etc. Peak torque probably around 5500, peak hp around 7500. Streatable, no I don't think so. 600 fwhp would be a more realistic goal. ( although still seriously expensive) Then splash a 200 shot of nitrous on it.

[tleed]

Go supercharger or turbo for 800 hp street car

[SexyTransAm]

800hp NA and street car dont add up.

[shownomercy]

I would say thats an easy 20k motor. Doable? Probably.

Just ain't logical or very streetable.

[firebird_1995]

Check out kyle Dawson's build "project gramps". Money is best spent on suspension and chassis mods. He's knocking on the 9 second door ON MOTOR.

[Camaro96]

Looks like my thoughts for NA 800 HP is not so practical for the street. Do you guys believe 600 HP for the street would be more practical?

[Camaro96]

Thank you all for you thoughts. It helps me plan for my next build.

[dawdaw]

Check out kyle Dawson's build "project gramps". Money is best spent on suspension and chassis mods. He's knocking on the 9 second door ON MOTOR.

Hey chris I don't think I'll hit 9s on motor ... maybe 10.50s I really don't know. . It has quite a few bugs to work out but I'd need probably 80 more horse at my weight to put it there. ..

100 shot will do it though :)

[popo8]

Just curious why the numbers u want are what u want and why n/a?

[joelster]

Looks like my thoughts for NA 800 HP is not so practical for the street. Do you guys believe 600 HP for the street would be more practical?

I'm around 600 n/a, best trap was 133.90. Sure 600hp is more practical than 800hp, but it still needs a big converter and a big cam. For me personally the "streetable" part of the car has way more to do with the supporting parts, than the engine. If you want to make big power and run strong at the track, you need a high stall converter. The converter can make or break the streetability of the car. Some people will tolerate a high stall, while others will hate it. I also run a spool, which is the logical choice, but makes the car dangerous on wet/damp roads. Not sure how much wet weather you'd be driving in anyways, but if you were to planning to attend a cruise or track day with rain in the forecast, you have to be real careful. The engine itself is just dependent on the tune. A perfect tune will tame a nasty engine, combined with a converter that doesn't lug it down low, and it will drive just fine. The only bad part about running a big solid roller is that they typically run high spring pressures which don't have the longevity that a typically hydraulic roller would have. If you plan on racking up the miles, then springs should be on a scheduled check/maintenance list.

Once you get the build above the factory pcm limit of 7k, add another $3k to your build. Most people aren't aware of that part.

[JCzNova]

Just curious why the numbers u want are what u want and why n/a?


This was going to be my question as well, since I have a minute to post now.

Was 800 a goal to say you have that much?

Like most have already chimed in, lots of 8-10 second 1/4-mile cars here with 5-650 HP and they haul the mail :D . The N/A part is what would really hurt you with hitting that goal AND being streetable.

Forced Induction would really be the way to go for you, and reading through the forum I think I have read "Take what you think a FI build will cost and double it."


Good Luck whichever way you decide to go, and get a build thread going on here. It will keep you motivated at times, and give us all some new reading!

[popo8]

I merged both of your threads into one....HERE.

[Camaro96]

Popo8
That HP rating has been in the back of my mind since I got the car almost 20 years ago now.

I thought I would reach out to other LTX fans and see if this was even possible. I had a engine builder in AR in the late 90's that he could do it for less then 10 na.
The car that I have was a special service vehicle for the state patrol and there were only 228 built in 1996 this is car number 3.
The way the car is now with the bottom end I'm concerned about longevity while still enjoying the car. I do not want to make a trailer queen. If I do that I might as well make it a survivor car to come out in another 20 years for an auction.

As I set and think about it a better head & cam with a tune maybe more appropriate for the car. To tape into it's current potential.

[Camaro96]

Kyle
Great build thread.

[SSlowBoat]

fyi i cammed my car with over 230k miles lol. if it holds oil pressure and passes a compression test, heads/cam it.

[Camaro96]

Joelster
Thanks for the input.
I would not mind a 3000 or may by 3600 stall. I may be out in some light rain it's hard to say I'm in colorado and have seen all 4 season in one day in JULY. Their is probably a chance of that. Have a new limited slip now. I will agree there is a lot more to be stree able then just the engine. I was not aware of the 7k limit on the computer then 6800 would be nice with out a catastrophic failure. Need to go forged on the bottom end. But would like to see what a good head & cam package with a tune will do while I decid on what splayed caps and internals would be best.

[Camaro96]

JCZNova
I wanted to make 800 na. now it's between 400-450

[Camaro96]

JCZNova
Thanks I will have to look into forced induction. There will be more questions about that in the future. Looks like I need to look into making the care perform better with mild bottom end. Thanks JCZNova

[HellTeeOne]

A guy on CZ28 many years ago with the username "Mindgame" probably built the closest thing ever done to a 800hp streetable N/A LT1. IIRC it was a big stroker with converted 18 degree heads, custom intake, huge SR cam, etc. 6 speed full weight car.

I think it made in the upper 500s rwhp and trapped mid to high 130s in the quarter. Maybe some of the guys that have been around for a while will chime in with more details.

But yeah, a 800hp N/A LT1 is probably not possible, much less one that is streetable. 800 flywheel is typically mid 600s rwhp.

[joelster]

A guy on CZ28 many years ago with the username "Mindgame" probably built the closest thing ever done to a 800hp streetable N/A LT1. IIRC it was a big stroker with converted 18 degree heads, custom intake, huge SR cam, etc. 6 speed full weight car.

I think it made in the upper 500s rwhp and trapped mid to high 130s in the quarter. Maybe some of the guys that have been around for a while will chime in with more details.

But yeah, a 800hp N/A LT1 is probably not possible, much less one that is streetable. 800 flywheel is typically mid 600s rwhp.

Pretty sure he had some ex-NASCAR SB2.2 heads. You can find them on racingjunk and eBay here and there. They bolt right up (bolt-pattern) but require a lot of custom parts.