PDA

View Full Version : Chamber Softening



shownomercy
09-12-2014, 11:02 AM
Anyone had any luck with this being done to stock heads? Quench is moot, I can always shrink the HG.

Mystery Bird
09-12-2014, 12:37 PM
Are you talking polishing effect or grooving?

shownomercy
09-12-2014, 12:45 PM
Are you talking polishing effect or grooving?

Polishing for the most part, but if there is material they can cut away at chamber. I think its a few CC lost.

Mystery Bird
09-12-2014, 01:12 PM
Did you happen to take pictures of all your piston tops and each chamber after you took it apart? That will help in the process if you have it done. I always take pics of those when an engine has some run time.

shownomercy
09-12-2014, 01:28 PM
Everything is labeled so I can still take pics to compare but neither piston nor chamber seemed bad. Its more of looking into things I can do since its all in pieces. A softened chamber prevents hot spots and predetonation, but I mostly found N20 guys doing it. You can gain a larger safe timing window through it.

dawdaw
09-12-2014, 01:43 PM
You're on straight pump gas no meth? Ever checked cylinder pressure? Why are you trying to open up your chamber a hair? For a larger tuning window?



Elaborate more on what you're trying to accomplish.. you're not trying to open up the chambers to push the limits of pump gas are you?

shownomercy
09-12-2014, 01:51 PM
You're on straight pump gas no meth? Ever checked cylinder pressure? Why are you trying to open up your chamber a hair? For a larger tuning window?

Elaborate more on what you're trying to accomplish.. you're not trying to open up the chambers to push the limits of pump gas are you?

Yes, straight 93, A2A and no meth. No idea on cylinder pressure.

Basically bored, and can't get motor done this season so looking at things to distract me. From what I gather softening the chamber allows for a slower flame front and gets a better timing window. Moar boost with less timing and moar safe power is always the goal.

dawdaw
09-12-2014, 03:14 PM
Well since your motor is down for the season.... why not go e85... more power because it it oxygenated, much nuch more for giving in tuning window and it will cost the same. Not to mention you could get more aggressive with it for a future build or this one and it'll run cooler.. if your injectors couldn't do it your into it for the difference of injector price.

Just throwing it out there...

dawdaw
09-12-2014, 03:15 PM
Hate to see ya lean on a boosted combo and melt it down after what you're going threw now

shownomercy
09-12-2014, 07:23 PM
E85 is not available in NJ and 120# sticks would tack on another grand or so.

NightTrain66
09-24-2014, 06:05 PM
do you need some pics of chambers that have been polished and sharp edges removed?

Lloyd

shownomercy
09-24-2014, 06:34 PM
If you have some of stock heads, sure!

NightTrain66
09-26-2014, 07:26 AM
I will have some pics of polished LT1 chamber early next week.

I have been doing aftermarket (Dart, Trick Flow, Canfield, etc) all week and I will be doing some factory GM LT1 heads early next week.

Lloyd

Puck
09-29-2014, 05:18 PM
They are not LT1 factory castings, but here are my AFRs that had the chambers polished then PolyDyn coated. They were in a very high boost build so it was important to be nice and smooth, with no hot spots. This is after a fresh mill to get the CC's down. Those scuff marks are cosmetic and won't catch a nail. Look way worse with the cheap cell phone camera flash.

http://i.imgur.com/YHc5TQ2.jpg?1

NightTrain66
09-29-2014, 06:35 PM
http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?27581-LT1-LE1-heads-for-sale

there is a pic of polished chamber in this thread . . .


Lloyd

firebird_1995
09-29-2014, 07:46 PM
I like that little bit of chamfer you put around the chamber Lloyd. I'm guessing that is just to take the sharp edge off?

NightTrain66
09-30-2014, 02:20 AM
yep, just to get rid of that sharp edge.

If you ever use a torch and run it across something like that you will see how quickly the sharp edges of something freshly machined will turn red.

It is still an edge and will turn red sooner than the center of the chamber (or any flat surface) BUT it takes a lot longer once that sharp edge is removed.

The sharp edges from where the top cut of valve job meet the chamber (intake and exhaust valves) are removes and the sharp edges from the exhaust valve job, valve seat to quench pad towards the center of cylinder is emoved and that area is layed back.

The sharp edges by spark plug and all rough texture from casting in chamber is removed with a dull carbide cutter (to remove as little material as possible but get rid of cast surface) and then and paper rolled to blend in.

Lloyd