KoolPowny 93 z28 help thread

[KoolPwny]

Hello everyone. I am gonna start this thread to get some quick answers from you all instead of making lots if random threads. Also I searched for this first problem and didn't find it.

Ok so my biggest problem is my ABS inop light is on. Here are the symptoms:

•stays on
•when coming to a stop from 0-5mph the low traction light comes on, and the brake pedal acts crazy and makes me nervous I won't stop.
•third brake light is off when normal brake lights are on. I haven't tried looking while someone presses the pedal yet though
•to replace the speed sensors do I really have to buy the hub assembly? Will it come attached or something?
•can I just clean the sensor instead of buying a new one(s)?

I haven't had a chance to take the wheels off and check yet because of working, but I probably will tomorrow.

Thanks in advance

[Fastbird]

Get your car scanned and watch the abs readings to see if it's a wheel sensor or not.

Yes you have to buy the whole hub assembly, no way around it.

Have you checked or changed the third brake light bulbs?

Posted from my LG G2

[KoolPwny]

Does the third brake light have to be on while someone is stepping on the brake pedal or just with the head/taillight on?

[Fastbird]

Should light up with pedal usage along with the rest. Won't be on with the parking lights or anything, just brake pedal activated.

[Injuneer]

You have 3 ABS wheel speed sensors. The two front ones are physically embedded in the spindle cartridges. You can check/clean the harness connectors. Sometimes that helps. The third sensor is on top of the differential housing. That one is removable, and can be cleaned. Give it a try.

I think you need an ABS-specific scan device, you can't do it with an ECM scanner.

When the ABS system is activated, the "LOW TRAC" light comes on. Usually, that will not work if there is an ABS fault code/light. When the ABS activates, you feel it in the brake pedal, which should pulse. I've had a situation with problems with the rear sensor, and the "ABS INOP" light was not on, but the ABS would suddenly activate as the vehicle speed approached "0", and there was no way the brakes were about to lock up. I would experience extended stopping differences, just as I stopped behind other cars at a traffic light. I finally gave up on the ABS (the rear sensor was not the stocker, because I have a Strange 12-bolt, and they supply there own, somewhat unreliable, rear sensor.

[jaysz2893]

Check the bulbs first. Then if it is abs, buy a delete kit.

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[KoolPwny]

Check the bulbs first. Then if it is abs, buy a delete kit.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Is the third brake light connected to the ABS somehow? Is it dangerous to delete the ABS system?

[jaysz2893]

Yes the 3rd light if the bulbs are our will set the inop light. Dangerous is up to the driver. When I needed my abs it didn't work. I deleted it and went with lsx/c5 brakes and am very happy. I was used to cars without abs, so threshold braking is no biggie.

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[KoolPwny]

Yes the 3rd light if the bulbs are our will set the inop light. Dangerous is up to the driver. When I needed my abs it didn't work. I deleted it and went with lsx/c5 brakes and am very happy. I was used to cars without abs, so threshold braking is no biggie.

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So the third brake light bulb will trip the light, but would it also cause the sporadic braking??

I'm buying the bulb anyways in a couple of hours btw lol

[Injuneer]

Describe in more detail what you mean by "pedal acts crazy" and "sporadic braking".

[KoolPwny]

Describe in more detail what you mean by "pedal acts crazy" and "sporadic braking".

Low traction light comes on and I can feel the pedal move up and down on it's own without me adding pressure to the brake pedal.


Also this is what my third brake light looks like with the brakes pressed

29164

[Injuneer]

Read what I posted earlier - when the ABS activates, the "LOW TRAC" light turns on, and the pedal pulses... moves slightly up an down. Your description sounds exactly like that. The puzzling part is why does the ABS work when the "ABS INOP" light is on.

[KoolPwny]

Update: haven't gotten the rear brakes light in yet, and I'm searching for a shop with an ABS scanner so they can tell me exactly what to search for. But that ABS delete is starting to sound soooo good right now ;-) hahaha

I'm assuming it works like old semis, when you brake hard you pump the brake instead of slamming on it right?

Also, I discovered an oil leak :-(
Not sure where it's coming from yet, but apparently that's nothing new to the LT world lol. Gonna do the oil change this week and replace a quart of oil with the Lucas oil treatment with stop leak and see of that helps. I was going to use synthetic 10-40 but maybe I should use conventional instead. Any suggestions? It has 94,000 miles on it

[KoolPwny]

Read what I posted earlier - when the ABS activates, the "LOW TRAC" light turns on, and the pedal pulses... moves slightly up an down. Your description sounds exactly like that. The puzzling part is why does the ABS work when the "ABS INOP" light is on.

I did read it thanks for your help. Yeah that's exactly what's happening. Maybe it IS the speed sensors. They're about 80 bucks each At work (hub assembly w sensor)

[popo8]

...

Also, I discovered an oil leak :-(
Not sure where it's coming from yet, but apparently that's nothing new to the LT world lol. ...

idk that oil leaks are an LT thing...

ive had a 93 camaro... a 95 camaro... a 96 camaro...and a 94 TA GT.

none had/have oil leaks. I think leaks are more of a lack of maint...thing.

LTXtech.com is my Drug...

[KoolPwny]

idk that oil leaks are an LT thing...

ive had a 93 camaro... a 95 camaro... a 96 camaro...and a 94 TA GT.

none had/have oil leaks. I think leaks are more of a lack of maint...thing.

LTXtech.com is my Drug...

Yeah I'm sure it is the car was sitting in a storage room for over an year. :-0

And my google search came up to check the intake manifold gasket, oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket.

[popo8]

All good starting places...check the oilpan and the rear main seal also...all the gaskets prob dried out in storage.

LTXtech.com is my Drug...

[KoolPwny]

Rear main seal is the one behind the block right? How hard is it to change?

[popo8]

Rear main seal is the one behind the block right? How hard is it to change?
backside of the crank... gotta pull the trans.

LTXtech.com is my Drug...

[KoolPwny]

backside of the crank... gotta pull the trans.

LTXtech.com is my Drug...

Damn lol
Imma have to do some detective work and find out where the leak is before I do that job lololol

I live in an apt and have to do car stuff at my chicks house

Hmm maybe I'll try that uv light oil detector kit

[popo8]

Well check the valve covers first..grab a clean rag and wipe all the way around the edges. If not wet...ur good. Anothrr clean rag amd reach back to the back sidr of the intake... (careful..my forarms are a lil thick and i get c ut up.pretty good from the underside of the cowl). If dry there...get the car in the air and add start searching with ur eyes...cause anything else will be blatant... (ie oil pan or filter). Finally if none of those... well...

LTXtech.com is my Drug...

[popo8]

If u have the dye and light...that would make it easier

LTXtech.com is my Drug...

[popo8]

Btw...I run synth in everything I own.

LTXtech.com is my Drug...

[KoolPwny]

I was gonna run synthetic but I think it would make the leaks worse right now haha. I prefer using synthetic though honestly

[popo8]

I was gonna run synthetic but I think it would make the leaks worse right now haha. I prefer using synthetic though honestly
it prob would... I agree. Do u know what was used before?

Cause if it was synth...u shouldnt really swap back to petroleum based... but if not...again, I agree with u.

LTXtech.com is my Drug...

[KoolPwny]

it prob would... I agree. Do u know what was used before?

Cause if it was synth...u shouldnt really swap back to petroleum based... but if not...again, I agree with u.

LTXtech.com is my Drug...

I have no idea what they used before.
I don't think anything bad would happen if they both mixed though. I mean they do sell conv/synth mixed motor oil

[KoolPwny]

I also forgot to mention that when I was doing the plug changes there was oil on the THREAD of the old spark plugs. Not the actual tip just the threads

[popo8]

I have no idea what they used before.
I don't think anything bad would happen if they both mixed though. I mean they do sell conv/synth mixed motor oil
no...im telling u. the rule is, once uve switched to full synth....u stay full synth.

LTXtech.com is my Drug...

[jaysz2893]

Actually mixing synthetic and conventional is not a good idea. They additive chemistry is totally different due to the base oils being different. The synthetic blends are kind of a misleading name. They are more conventional than synthetic and they use a even different additive package. If you think it was conventional oil and you want to go synthetic, do a full oil change with a flush agent and then go to synthetic. After that avoid going back to conventional. I run Mobil 1 and it will "enhance" any leaks due to the nature of synthetic oil and the additives/detergents. I would try to track down the leaks, the timing cover to oil pan is a common one, and fix them. I would also pull a valve cover and see how clean or dirty it is up top. If you want to know what kind of oil and any contamination may be in the motor , I have contacts at oil analysis labs. I have had a few friends buy used cars and have the oil analysis done prior to any maintenance or mods. BTW I work for DuPont Performance Lubes and we deal a lot with synthetic oils (pfpe) and I field a lot of questions about motor oils even though we don't make them, yet. :-)

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[Injuneer]

I did read it thanks for your help. Yeah that's exactly what's happening. Maybe it IS the speed sensors. They're about 80 bucks each At work (hub assembly w sensor)

Did you consider checking/cleaning the front harness connectors, and cleaning the rear sensor?

[KoolPwny]

no...im telling u. the rule is, once uve switched to full synth....u stay full synth.

LTXtech.com is my Drug...

Oh cool thank you I'll stick to just one

[KoolPwny]

Actually mixing synthetic and conventional is not a good idea. They additive chemistry is totally different due to the base oils being different. The synthetic blends are kind of a misleading name. They are more conventional than synthetic and they use a even different additive package. If you think it was conventional oil and you want to go synthetic, do a full oil change with a flush agent and then go to synthetic. After that avoid going back to conventional. I run Mobil 1 and it will "enhance" any leaks due to the nature of synthetic oil and the additives/detergents. I would try to track down the leaks, the timing cover to oil pan is a common one, and fix them. I would also pull a valve cover and see how clean or dirty it is up top. If you want to know what kind of oil and any contamination may be in the motor , I have contacts at oil analysis labs. I have had a few friends buy used cars and have the oil analysis done prior to any maintenance or mods. BTW I work for DuPont Performance Lubes and we deal a lot with synthetic oils (pfpe) and I field a lot of questions about motor oils even though we don't make them, yet. :-)

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Awesome very informative thanks! I'll see what I can find out

[KoolPwny]

Did you consider checking/cleaning the front harness connectors, and cleaning the rear sensor?

Rear oil pressure sensor (the one above the oil filter)? I hadn't considered those, no. I will add it to my checklist definitely though thank you

[Injuneer]

Rear oil pressure sensor (the one above the oil filter)? I hadn't considered those, no. I will add it to my checklist definitely though thank you

My response dealt with the ABS wheel speed sensors, not your oil leak. Read your own quote in my post. I included the quote so you would know which one of your problems I was responding to - wheel speed sensors.

I explained to you that you have three ABS wheel speed sensors. I explained that there is on on top of the differential housing that can be removed and cleaned. If it get covered with metal sludge, a common part of the rear end lube, it can cause the ABS to act up, and possibly set a code.

And, with regard to the oil pressure sensor, the 93 has the sensor above the oil filter, not on the top/back of the block.

[KoolPwny]

Update: I found the leak. The oil pressure switch above the oil filter had completely broken off.

I got a new one from autozone, fresh oil, fresh filter and runs great now. One more thing crossed off the list lol

[popo8]

Gotta love crossing stuff iff the list.

Whats next?

LTXtech.com is my Drug...

[KoolPwny]

Actually now that I think about it there is something I noticed yesterday.

While driving the temp gauge goes all the way to the leg before the red line and than will slowly start going back down. Is this something I should be worried about?

It doesn't get INto the red it stops before it. And goes back down and all the way back up again

[KoolPwny]

Ok so this doesn't have to do with anything wrong with my car. But this is what happened when I posted a pic of my new car on my old mustang forum lol. How is he gonna call my car junk when his doesn't even run????

29270
29271

[KoolPwny]

Ok guys so I bought a coolant temp sensor I have to put in..

What's the best way to cover the opti so that nothing spills on it?

Any tips you guys have for me?

[jaysz2893]

Ok guys so I bought a coolant temp sensor I have to put in..

What's the best way to cover the opti so that nothing spills on it?

Any tips you guys have for me?
I dunno for sure cause I have always had the pump out when I decided to change the sensor. I would try stuffing rags between the pump and the opti. maybe remove the coil wire. move quick so not much leaks out.. lol

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[KoolPwny]

Update:
Just put the new coolant temp sensor in a while ago. Put some rags down there over the opti and it went without a hitch :phew:

So I took the elbow off of the throttle body and I guess the previous owner was impatient and didn't put the tube on right and bent the crap out of it.. Giving it a small tear and leaving it in place with a bend in it :facepalm: so I put that on correctly as well.


Back to the overheating problem...

Now the fan(s?) do kick on, (2 relays) but only after getting to the red line on the temp gauge. (Not sure which line means what temp tbh) than it goes down to about the halfway line.

Why aren't they kicking on sooner?? Fans work. I jumped the relays so I know that they work as well. There is also enough coolant.

W T F ! ? ! ?

Any input is appreciated lol.

[Injuneer]

Doesn't sound like you needed a new coolant temp sensor. You indicated in your earlier post (before replacement) that the temp gauge approached the red zone, and then slowly dropped down to the mid-point.

The stock programming turns the first fan on at 226*F, and the second fan on at 235*F. The hash-mark right before the red zone on your 93 (93 gauge is marked differently than all other 4th Gens) can be interpolated as 240*F. So it sounds like your temp was approaching 240*, when it hit 235* both fans were running, and they were able to pull the temperature back down. Fans turned off, and the cycle repeated.

Under what driving conditions does the temperature approach the red zone? At idle, low load cruising, freeway cruising at high speeds, wide open throttle? For example, if the problem happens mainly while cruising the freeway at 60 MPH, it may indicate the plastic air dam under the front bumper is missing. The air dam pushes the air up into the bottom-fed radiator opening. At idle, could indicate a dirty coolant system.

The gauge uses a different temp sensor than the ECM. The one for the gauge is in the driver side head.

[KoolPwny]

Woah my car is supposed to run that hot?well I was driving around today and it was a little cooler so that's good, I'm glad I changed it.

And before I ganged it, it was hitting the red line just driving around town I rarely drive the freeway.

[popo8]

U can always tune it to have the fans kick on earlier with a cooler thermostate.

[KoolPwny]

U can always tune it to have the fans kick on earlier with a cooler thermostate.

I considered this too. Bc the temp thing bugs the crap out of me lol.

I need to get the car running smooth on it's own first so it can pass my smog check so I can register/insure after. Than I can start modding lol. I'm so impatient!

[Injuneer]

It should stay in the middle of the gauge most of the time. Constantly approaching the red zone indicates a problem with the cooling system. Could be air in the system, dirty radiator, aging water pump, collapsing pump suction hose, leaves or a plastic bag blocking the radiator, etc.

[KoolPwny]

It should stay in the middle of the gauge most of the time. Constantly approaching the red zone indicates a problem with the cooling system. Could be air in the system, dirty radiator, aging water pump, collapsing pump suction hose, leaves or a plastic bag blocking the radiator, etc.

I'll take a look at each of those things

[KoolPwny]

Ok so I believe I figured out my overheating problem..

And I'm kind of embarrassed to say what it was lol..

I'm gonna have to drive around a while tomorrow to make sure though..

However my whole drive home the temp needle was in he middle if the gauge..

[KoolPwny]

Yup so it was definitely the air dam that was problem. I put it back on, and now my car is running like a dream!

To any new people reading this...


NEVER TAKE THE AIR DAM OFF!!!

Too bad now I'm scraping on every driveway I come across :-|

[KoolPwny]

Passed the smog check today! :beer:

Just barely though lol

[popo8]

Congrats.

[popo8]

...


NEVER TAKE THE AIR DAM OFF!!!

Too bad now I'm scraping on every driveway I come across :-|

Gotta learn how to hit it at an angle... lol.

[KoolPwny]

Gotta learn how to hit it at an angle... lol.

That's what she said...


I think? Lmfao!

[popo8]

That's what she said...


I think? Lmfao!
Hahahahahah... touch'

[KoolPwny]

Hmmm..

So I sent an email to PCMforLess asking about a chip for my car, but the response was from a company called PCMofNC... How did they get that email?

From their website it seems they do have chips for my car though.

Anybody have any personal experience with them??

[Injuneer]

Hmmm..

So I sent an email to PCMforLess asking about a chip for my car, but the response was from a company called PCMofNC... How did they get that email?

From their website it seems they do have chips for my car though.

Anybody have any personal experience with them??

Alvin lives in NC, and was the person who burned the chips under the pcmforless name. He now is a separate company. Anyone who has a pcmforless chip got it from Alvin.

[KoolPwny]

So would you recommend them to buy my chip from?

[KoolPwny]

FUUUUUXXCCCKKKKKK!!!!!

Look what got stolen on my car!!!!!!
29438




FMLLLL!!!!
Both sides were stolen from me!!!

[97firehawk]

Ridiculous , some people suck at life.

[KoolPwny]

I'm just gonna part out my mustang get rid of that crumpled beer can of a car and get my parking spot back.

Why don't people just get a damn job and buy their own shit??

I worked hard af to buy my car and have it nice, and not even a month after I buy my camaro finally this happens!!!!

[Injuneer]

So would you recommend them to buy my chip from?

I don't have a 93, so I don't know anything about the quality of Alvin's chips. Just ask who has a chip from pcmforless, and how they like it.

[KoolPwny]

Funny thing. I checked to see how much the cap and rotor for our distributor is for my car. And as it turns out, it's $50 MORE than the entire distributor lol

[Injuneer]

Were they both the same brand? The MSD cap/rotor for example is $150. AC Delco similar or a bit more. A Chinese rip-off complete Opti is under $100. But the quality is in no way, shape or form comparable. Life expectancy of the Chinese crap is often measured in minutes.

[Sahara54]

Go AC Delco and I wouldn't even bother with the MSD cap/rotor. Just locktite the rotor screws and add alil RTV to the unit up. I'm running a BS Advance Auto Opti now and have had nothing but problems. I'll be swapping my 100k mile spare Delco in this week to hold me over till I can get one from Gail.

[KoolPwny]

It's a duralast gold opti I believe
An msd cap and rotor is $150

[Injuneer]

I'll explain this one more time. As the price goes down, the probability of failure goes up. If you like to gamble, go for it. You may be the lucky one.

[KoolPwny]

Woah 437 for an ac/delco on rock auto 😱 29549that's crazy lol. But I guess you get what you pay for on these cars

[Sahara54]

You can get one cheaper through Gail American-Powerhouse

[SSlowBoat]

I have one from gail, unvented 94 delco opti, don't touch it, it has a warranty you will void by opening it. But it took away 97 percent of all my ignition issues. And it was cheaper thru her.

[American-Powerhouse]

Thanks for the mention guys! Much appreciated.

KoolPwny, you can buy a genuine ACDelco distributor from my website. If you take advantage of the core credit, final cost shipped to you is $420.00.

Check the details here: http://shop.american-powerhouse.com/ACDelco-19212299-Non-Vented-Optispark-Distributor-APHACD19212299.htm

[KoolPwny]

Hmm that's looks good. I'll definitely take those into consideration.

Off topic:

My chick have me a $25 dollar amazon gift card, and my mom have me $40 for my birthday. (Im an adult and have a job, they just didn't know what to get me lol)

Anyways anybody have any ideas on what I should get from amazon for $65-$100?

I've never done any cosmetic stuff but am open to it. Or a cool bolt on I can buy

[KoolPwny]

Ugh my car ran out of has today :-(

I had money to fill up but I figured I would go after work. A block past work and it wouldn't go.

My girl had to come with a gas can and of started right up.

But the damn gas needle wasn't even touching the bottom line of the gauge wtf

[Dan Jaeger]

Mine is on fumes at 1/8 of a tank

[Injuneer]

This has been a known problem for the 21+ years since the first 4th Gen was built. DO NOT RUN BELOW 1/4 TANK. If you run out, there's a high probability your fuel pump will die shortly thereafter.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#fuel_gauge

[KoolPwny]

Thank you injuneer. Now I know. The sucky part is that I was on my way to put gas after work.

I drove a small block once it started sputtering and parked it so I didn't drive far at all. Hopefully no damage

[KoolPwny]

Hey guys.

So two things. Ball joints are bad and starter is going out. There's like a grinding noise and it struggles to start.

I think I'm gonna do the starter before the ball joints (even though tey are noisy as hell and I hate it)

[95albinobird]

i was thinking of filling it up then pulling the needle off like when you do gauge faces and putting it on the f or running it low and pulling the needle and putting it on the e.
anyone ever try this to fix the gauge thing?

[KoolPwny]

i was thinking of filling it up then pulling the needle off like when you do gauge faces and putting it on the f or running it low and pulling the needle and putting it on the e.
anyone ever try this to fix the gauge thing?

Huh?

[95albinobird]

Huh?

i had the same problem and every f-body owner has a fuel gauge that reads wrong....i thought i was clear
when people do white face gauges they have to pull the indicating needles off then you have to turn the key on and note where all the needles are pointing then put them on when you put the white or whatever face you do where they were or they read wrong so if it's past full when you fill up like mine is pull the needle and put it on the f mark not past it it stands to reason it will hit the E and still have a little reserve.here is some custom gauges.the point is to install any of them you have to pull the needles and put them back on.i'm not saying replace the factory faces i just thought it was a possible way to adjust what the fuel gauge reads
http://6litereaterdesigns.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=102

[KoolPwny]

i had the same problem and every f-body owner has a fuel gauge that reads wrong....i thought i was clear
when people do white face gauges they have to pull the indicating needles off then you have to turn the key on and note where all the needles are pointing then put them on when you put the white or whatever face you do where they were or they read wrong so if it's past full when you fill up like mine is pull the needle and put it on the f mark not past it it stands to reason it will hit the E and still have a little reserve.here is some custom gauges.the point is to install any of them you have to pull the needles and put them back on.i'm not saying replace the factory faces i just thought it was a possible way to adjust what the fuel gauge reads
http://6litereaterdesigns.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=102

Yeah my car does have that problem with the fuel gauge. My car actually ran out gas a while back because of it.

And those gauges in the link so cool!

[KoolPwny]

Update:
I didn't have a lot of time (or tools lol) but I changed the upper ball joints and brakes on my car today. It stopped the majority (the worst of..) the noises I was hearing driving around. So it drives great now but later on I'll figure out how to further quiet it down.

Also my reman starter came in today. Just have to wait a bit to install it 2987129872

[KoolPwny]

Just got back from starter install. I couldn't get it out but my brother was able to after wrestling with it for a while lol. The trans lines were especially in the way.

But holy WOW does that car start EXCELLENT now!! Sweet!!

One less thing off the list and I don't have to be paranoid every time I try and start my car now lol

[popo8]

FUUUUUXXCCCKKKKKK!!!!!

Look what got stolen on my car!!!!!!
29438




FMLLLL!!!!
Both sides were stolen from me!!!
That sucks man/..

I'll explain this one more time. As the price goes down, the probability of failure goes up. If you like to gamble, go for it. You may be the lucky one.
True^^^ and buying n expensive one is not a guarantee Burt the probability that its good goes UP.

i was thinking of filling it up then pulling the needle off like when you do gauge faces and putting it on the f or running it low and pulling the needle and putting it on the e.
anyone ever try this to fix the gauge thing?
When we did the new pumps In my camaro. The float rod got bent and messed up the accuracy... So we pulled the assembly them keys on the car with a FULL tank of gas and then just kept bending and installing till it was on F. Guage is now dead on... I can run the camaro to right about e...and still pull into the gas station and put I'm nearly 16 gallons. My TA untouched is dead on...twice now I've looked down and found it on e... And fill it up with 16 Gallons.

[KoolPwny]

Hello everyone.

So I just took a trip today from here in LA to San Diego.

I was unsure of how my car would make it because it runs hot in city driving (no overheating though) and holy wow it drove awesome on the freeway! All that extra wind that air dam was scooping up was doing a helluva job lol. It was about the halfway mark the whole way!

HOWEVER!!!!!

I think running my car until it ran out of gas a while back is coming back to bite me in the ass. This happened twice today:

I'm driving along normally, partial throttle to merge onto freeway, and it seems like the car died. All engine noises ceased for a second. So I put more throttle (almost wot) and it just wakes up out of nowhere and shoots forward like all hell (because of foot down on gas already)

Happened again right before I got home too on the street, but car didn't actually shut down.

Could this be my fuel pump dying on me!?!?

If so:
•how hard is it to change a fuel pump?
•is it difficult to cut out that trap door behind the rear seats?
•best upgraded pump? (For future Boost plans)

Thanks everyone!! You guys always have the best advice lol

[red4thgen]

Check your fuel pressure from the valve off the fuel line. Start the car you should have around 46psi then shut it down it should hold pressure. If that's good its probably the o2 sensors 93 lt1s will never run right with bad o2s. One way to test that is disconnect your o2 sensors and run the car with them unpluged this forces the car to open loop if it runs good get some new ac delco o2 sensors Bosch will not work on those cars. Hope this helps you out

[95albinobird]

Koolpwny seems like a good egg.did he ever get this straightened out

[KoolPwny]

So I was checking the RPO codes on my car and saw a G92 "Rear Axle Performance" what does that mean? I'm trying to find out what gears my a4 has lol

[KoolPwny]

Check your fuel pressure from the valve off the fuel line. Start the car you should have around 46psi then shut it down it should hold pressure. If that's good its probably the o2 sensors 93 lt1s will never run right with bad o2s. One way to test that is disconnect your o2 sensors and run the car with them unpluged this forces the car to open loop if it runs good get some new ac delco o2 sensors Bosch will not work on those cars. Hope this helps you out

Im gonna try this thanks

[Dan Jaeger]

G92 is stated as the performance suspension package (which I believe should be standard on any Z) the auto tranny should read GU3 on your build sheet. Not 100% on what came standard in autos tho :/ I'm a t56 kinda guy myself.
Edit..
GU2 - 2.73
GU5 - 3.23
Hope that helps!

[KoolPwny]

G92 is stated as the performance suspension package (which I believe should be standard on any Z) the auto tranny should read GU3 on your build sheet. Not 100% on what came standard in autos tho :/ I'm a t56 kinda guy myself.
Edit..
GU2 - 2.73
GU5 - 3.23
Hope that helps!

Found the GU5 thanks! 29989

[KoolPwny]

So I have this mustang that was wrecked. 29994
The rear end was not hurt in the collision.
The diff has 4.10 gears with carbon fiber clutch packs. 28 spline axle. Can I use this rear end on my 93 f bod??

[KoolPwny]

Why won't this K&N cold air intake fit on my 1993? (No maf)

With new 1le elbow 30465

[Madman337]

Yeah there is room for the MAF that a 93 like ours does not have.

[Madman337]

Actually mixing synthetic and conventional is not a good idea. They additive chemistry is totally different due to the base oils being different. The synthetic blends are kind of a misleading name. They are more conventional than synthetic and they use a even different additive package. If you think it was conventional oil and you want to go synthetic, do a full oil change with a flush agent and then go to synthetic. After that avoid going back to conventional. I run Mobil 1 and it will "enhance" any leaks due to the nature of synthetic oil and the additives/detergents. I would try to track down the leaks, the timing cover to oil pan is a common one, and fix them. I would also pull a valve cover and see how clean or dirty it is up top. If you want to know what kind of oil and any contamination may be in the motor , I have contacts at oil analysis labs. I have had a few friends buy used cars and have the oil analysis done prior to any maintenance or mods. BTW I work for DuPont Performance Lubes and we deal a lot with synthetic oils (pfpe) and I field a lot of questions about motor oils even though we don't make them, yet. :-)

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I dont want to hijack the thread or anything but since your in the biz I figured I would ask a question of you, I sell a teflon engine oil treatment at work but I have only ever sold 2 of them in almost 2 years because I do not believe they work so could you enlighten me as to weather or not they work at protecting your engine in your opinion?

[KoolPwny]

What dtc code is this? Is it a 12?

http://youtu.be/9Mcyt32AmgU




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[JCzNova]

Yes

[KoolPwny]

After a quick search, 12 means the ecm has entered diagnostic mode. So no actual codes cool


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[KoolPwny]

Ok so I was out driving today and my car stalled.

I put it in neutral and pulled over to the side. The power steering was not working so it was harder to turn the wheel to pull over.

The voltage seemed fine on the dash and the radio stayed on when the car stalled.

I turned the car off as soon as I pulled over and waited a couple of seconds, prime the fuel pump, and it started right up again.

Hasn't turned off for the rest of my drive this morning.

Anybody have any ideas to what this could be?

Car is an a4 by the way


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[popo8]

Well if it stalled... ur powersteering would stop as well...

Do u have an SES (CHECK ENGINE LIGHT) codes showing?

[KoolPwny]

Nope no ses and no codes showing up with using a paperclip


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[Madman337]

I dont want to hijack the thread or anything but since your in the biz I figured I would ask a question of you, I sell a teflon engine oil treatment at work but I have only ever sold 2 of them in almost 2 years because I do not believe they work so could you enlighten me as to weather or not they work at protecting your engine in your opinion?



This question was directed at jaysz2893 , sorry for any confusion or off topic stuff.

[KoolPwny]

Ok so I'm getting ready to install my long tubes. I bought the fastbird performance heated O2 sensor kit, and 2 brand new ac Delco 4 wire O2 sensors. Am I still going to need O2 extensions even with the fastbird performance kit?


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[KoolPwny]

This question was directed at jaysz2893 , sorry for any confusion or off topic stuff.

It's ok idc at all ask away lol


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[KoolPwny]

What is a good price to pay someone to weld my x pipe and mufflers together?

There's no hanger on the x pipe either how don't know where to put it?

Here it is btw 31635
31636

I'm excited to put it on! I'm going to Vegas soon I hope I can have it installed and tuned by then :-)


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[KoolPwny]

31637

[KoolPwny]

'

[KoolPwny]

Ok so I've been having troubleshooting my ac. Air will not blow out through the center vents.

I put some r134a and replaced the check valve already.

Followed the lines but did not feel a leak.


Can anyone help?


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[KoolPwny]

I'm thinking of just buying this. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/10/a848e4fd74e2cf49acc73a847cb8949e.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/10/15a5b989064fb071e64fbd181815793e.jpg


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[American-Powerhouse]

KoolPwny, I'm an ACDelco distributor. Let me look into this for you, maybe I can help.

[KoolPwny]

KoolPwny, I'm an ACDelco distributor. Let me look into this for you, maybe I can help.

Thanks!


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[red4thgen]

I got a opti for a 93 its a k&h works great its about a year old

[KoolPwny]

Ok so I'm at a loss. I'm still having overheating issues.

Just replaced my radiator because the old one had a huge crack in it and overheated on me in the McDonald's drive thru!!

I know the fans are supposed to turn on when I put the ac on max but they still don't.

Here's a list of things I did recently. They're not all related to the fan issue but I'm gonna include them.

New radiator with all air bled out of the system

New ac compressor because the clutch went bad on the old one and the squeak wasn't gonna go away u til I changed it

New high and low side ac switches

52mm throttle body with coolant bypass mod

New belt tensioner

New belt

Already replaced stock thermostat with 160*

Changed coolant temp sensor in water pump

Changed both primary and secondary fan relays under the hood

No check engine light and no codes when I use paper clip method

Tried putting some ac pro in the car but the needle jumps to the red right away even though there's none in the system

Plz help. I fixed all of the things that went wrong because of the heating issue but have actually solved the problem. And of k don't the exact same problems are going to occur again.

The gauge needle goes all the way to the red before the secondary fan turns on so the primary isn't working

If I jump the relay the fans kick on so I know they work

Would use a manual fan switch but if it left the factory running perfect than that means I can get it back to how it was that way


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[Dan]

How fast does it climb into the red zone after start up? If it goes up fairly quickly there is air in the system.

How are you bleeding it?

Your water pump working?

Overflow tank filled to cold full when cold?

Put it under pressure. If it leaks it's just going to suck in air.

The fans for AC won't turn on if the system isn't charged.

Manual fan switch won't keep the car cool if there is something else wrong. The fans are set to come on 226 low and 235 high. It had to run hot to pass emissions.

[SSlowBoat]

You need to evacuate the ac system before charging it, the needle jumps to red because there are noncondensables in the system. unplug the pressure switch for ac and the fans should come on, if not you have a wiring issue, or computer signal issue

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[KoolPwny]

How fast does it climb into the red zone after start up? If it goes up fairly quickly there is air in the system.

How are you bleeding it?

Your water pump working?

Overflow tank filled to cold full when cold?

Put it under pressure. If it leaks it's just going to suck in air.

The fans for AC won't turn on if the system isn't charged.

Manual fan switch won't keep the car cool if there is something else wrong. The fans are set to come on 226 low and 235 high. It had to run hot to pass emissions.


The car doesn't jump into red quickly. It warms up as normal and climbs up into the red steadily. As the needle touches the red zone, a fan will finally kick on.

I believe the water pump is working. But I'm not sure how to tell. There's no liquid seeping and there's no signs of old coolant residue on it.

Overflow tank reads good when cold

What do you mean put it under pressure??



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[Dan]

Use a radiator pressure tester. You can probably rent it from auto parts store. Basically it puts pumps air into the system. It the dial on the tool decreases there is a leak.

[KoolPwny]

34502
I wanted to share this pic bc I'm not sure what temp is what since there hardly any numbers. But the only time the fan kicks on is where the arrow is pointing.

The first fan is supposed to kick in a lot sooner than that


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[SSlowBoat]

34502
I wanted to share this pic bc I'm not sure what temp is what since there hardly any numbers. But the only time the fan kicks on is where the arrow is pointing.

The first fan is supposed to kick in a lot sooner than that


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You cannot trust the stock gauge cluster and temp sender, they are notoriously inaccurate. Throw an aftermarket gauge on somewhere, or have someone log the computer. You can also check the coolant temp sensor in the water pumps resistance value and there is a chart online which references resistance level to temperature. Then you can see. If it's not bubbling out and pushing steam, it's not overheating. Factory fan 1 temp is 226 secondary is 232. Antifreeze doesn't boil at 212f under pressure....unless you have antifreeze spraying everywere, the car isn't overheating.

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[Injuneer]

Also, your car has a temp sensor on passenger side head or block for second fan, these can be swapped for lower temp sensors to enable the second fan to come on first or sooner.

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Are you sure about that? First time I've heard that in reference to an LT1 of any year.

The 93 factory shop manual diagram shows the 93 fan setup is identical to "early" 94 models. The ECM controls both fan relays. Primary fan relay is controlled off pin B4 and secondary fan relay is controlled off pin B10. The ECM has only one coolant temp sensor input, to pin A13. There are no additional inputs to the secondary fan relay. In many years of looking at data logs for people, the control temps are identical to the later models.... 226*F for the primary and 235*F for the secondary. The 1993 factory manual confirms all this in Section 6E3-C12.

The 3rd Gen's had the switch in the passenger side head, but the only thing in that location on an LT1 head is a pipe plug.

[SSlowBoat]

Are you sure about that? First time I've heard that in reference to an LT1 of any year.

The 93 factory shop manual diagram shows the 93 fan setup is identical to "early" 94 models. The ECM controls both fan relays. Primary fan relay is controlled off pin B4 and secondary fan relay is controlled off pin B10. The ECM has only one coolant temp sensor input, to pin A13. There are no additional inputs to the secondary fan relay. In many years of looking at data logs for people, the control temps are identical to the later models.... 226*F for the primary and 235*F for the secondary. The 1993 factory manual confirms all this in Section 6E3-C12.

The 3rd Gen's had the switch in the passenger side head, but the only thing in that location on an LT1 head is a pipe plug.
Sorry, was referencing bad info, thought 93's had it. Thanks for the clarification.

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[KoolPwny]

So do you guys think a tune would fix this issue?


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[SSlowBoat]

If u can confirm temps are correct

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[Dan]

Jump the relay so the fans are on high-speed at all times. Let the car just idle. If the car is still overheating, then you have air in the lines, leaks, bad water pump, clogged radiator, or something else.