Licensed to Thrill, MI6TA's Build

[MI6TA]

I started out buying this 97 trans am in Mid 2013 with 116k. Traded a beat up 93 Dakota with a overdrive shifting issue, and 2 grand for it. It's a M6. I blew a head gasket in October and the mechanic wanted $1800 for a new head gasket. I weighed my options and decided, screw that, I'll make the engine the way I want for double that haha. So now it's 6months from the day my life changed. I have most of the parts for the build and have a rotating assembly. I keep having issues with stupid things. So I'll be using this thread to post as I go :).

Here's the layout of all the goodies:
CAI
52mm LT1 TB w/ Airfoil
Ported Lt1 Intake
33lb injectors
!AIR !EGR

Heads:
Ported LT1 Heads, Rocker Stud threads Heli-coiled(steel>aluminum), New Manley Valves(stock size), Arp Rocker Studs, NSA Comp Ultra Pro Magnums, Comp Guideplates, Lunati Dual .660" Valve Springs
LS7 Lifters
LE 227/235 .565/.579 110LSA Cam

Bottom End:
Stock Crank/ Rods
Keith Black Hypereutectic .30 over pistons
Stock Timing set just new Chain
Dynaspark
Electric Water Pump
Hooker Longtube w/Jet-Hot Coating to Ypipe
Mail Order Tune, will set the fans to kick on sooner maybe 190* or 195*





Anyhow I know what you really want. Feast your eyes upon my baby.

The day I knew I had a blown head gasket...
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/themachine2/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM00962_zps25960a1e.jpg (http://s251.photobucket.com/user/themachine2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM00962_zps25960a1e.jpg.html)

Here's the culprit. 123k miles.
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/themachine2/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01066_zps1813d263.jpg (http://s251.photobucket.com/user/themachine2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01066_zps1813d263.jpg.html)

My dad and I are old fashioned so we went out the top with the motor. It was quite a fun time getting the trans separated from the motor. It seems someone may have installed a new clutch in the past and they used an air wrench to tighten everything back down. It took a few feet of extensions and a huge pry bar to get the motor and bell housing apart. Definitely going to drop the K-member to put everything back together.

The first thing I looked for was a set of heads. Found some lt1 heads already ported and polished, with rocker studs, new valves, and upgraded springs and he threw in a port matched intake. Talked him down to $450 for the whole thing. Here's the port work:
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/themachine2/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01071_zps1799db93.jpg (http://s251.photobucket.com/user/themachine2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01071_zps1799db93.jpg.html)

Next I bought a summit bottom end rebuild kit. Nothing special here lol.
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/themachine2/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01222_zpsfcef1265.jpg (http://s251.photobucket.com/user/themachine2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01222_zpsfcef1265.jpg.html)


Decided I didn't like the non arp rocker studs, and found out that the cam I'm running will destroy the springs that came with the heads so after some conversation, @96LT1355Z28 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/member.php?u=25) talked me in to 7/16 arp studs, NSA Comp Ultra Pro Mags, and guideplates. Thanks again for the great service you do here.
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/themachine2/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01356_zps37fbd8ed.jpg (http://s251.photobucket.com/user/themachine2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01356_zps37fbd8ed.jpg.html)

So here we are presently with the motor. Just put the freeze plugs in, and cam.
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/themachine2/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01416_zpsa94acaed.jpg (http://s251.photobucket.com/user/themachine2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01416_zpsa94acaed.jpg.html)



Decided I didn't want the green engine bay anymore so I stripped it and sanded and am going to paint it black. I plan on it being a rough job as this is my first paint job, but as my goal with this car is an introduction to many automotive topics. Basically it's a practice car. Here's some engine bay pics before I primer, and I did cover off more than just the passenger side lol.
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/themachine2/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01418_zpsf2ed383a.jpg (http://s251.photobucket.com/user/themachine2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01418_zpsf2ed383a.jpg.html)
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/themachine2/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01417_zps5ab9a66f.jpg (http://s251.photobucket.com/user/themachine2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01417_zps5ab9a66f.jpg.html)
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/themachine2/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01419_zps28d93e51.jpg (http://s251.photobucket.com/user/themachine2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01419_zps28d93e51.jpg.html)

[96LT1355Z28]

Lookin good and thanks for the mention! Can't wait to see it together and running!!

[popo8]

Great write up... keep the progress posts comin...

love the bond thing u do. lol

LTXtech.com is my DRUG!

[MI6TA]

I added the full build list to first post.

Thanks it's a work in progress but nows the fun part of putting all the pieces back together.

[MI6TA]

Having some issues with the oil galleys from the rebuild kit I got.

All the freeze plugs went in no problem... but the 3 holes on the front of the block the 1/2" galleys they supplied don't seem like the right size. The middle hole is the smallest and the plug can't fit in it. The side 2 are bigger and deeper. anyone know the sizes I need?

[Fastbird]

I just tried to measure mine though it's got a plug in and the motors in the car still. Roughly came up with .509 so that should get you close.

[MI6TA]

We measured the two bigger holes to be between .565-.575 roughly. I'm going to look for more freeze plug kits maybe I'll find one with the measurements listed

[MI6TA]

Got some progress made this week.

I had to special order the oil galley plugs on top of the cam from the local dealership who had to have them mailed because they are such an odd item to have to purchase apparently. Anyhow these are the P/N's. The single small center hole is:

GM part# 14091563




The other 2 are:

GM part# 10110897




We measured them, and the small one is .480 of an inch, and the others are .565 so that's why the .500's that came in my rebuild kit didn't fit. Here's them installed. Sorry about quality my camera lens was dirty.
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/themachine2/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01437_zps32726e4e.jpg (http://s251.photobucket.com/user/themachine2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01437_zps32726e4e.jpg.html)


Got that all squared away, and the timing on that same day. Decided to reuse my timing sprockets and just replace the timing chain OEM. Everything fit back as it should have, finally got a lucky break haha.

I got the engine bay painted too. I'm happy with how it came out, it's very shiny, and looks like wet paint it's so slick. I didn't get detail oriented so it's a little rough in spots from halfass sanding and the fact that while I was priming the bay, the cup on the paint guy half full of primer dislodged from the gun and got all over the back right of the bay. I was pissed. But what are ya going to do... Anyhow here's before/after pics!


http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/themachine2/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01279_zps501cc168.jpg (http://s251.photobucket.com/user/themachine2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01279_zps501cc168.jpg.html)http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/themachine2/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01444_zpscc28ab6b.jpg (http://s251.photobucket.com/user/themachine2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01444_zpscc28ab6b.jpg.html)

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/themachine2/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01440_zps20fea04d.jpg (http://s251.photobucket.com/user/themachine2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01440_zps20fea04d.jpg.html)
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/themachine2/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01441_zpsf01d52e2.jpg (http://s251.photobucket.com/user/themachine2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM01441_zpsf01d52e2.jpg.html)


WISH I COULD WIRE TUCK! But I'll try to delete or move a couple things to show off a cleaner bay. What are some easy options? I'm keeping the heater, a/c, Power steering... So I know that clutters up quite a bit but I gotta have em.

[MI6TA]

Today I worked on the heads and painted the engine block/oil pan.

Going with a Black/Red/Shiny theme. It's going to turn out REALLY well and quite classy. James Bond would approve.

Got a pleasant surprise in the form of heli-coiled threads for the rocker studs. At first I was quite concerned and confused as to why someone would do that 16 times... But after calling a friend it made sense, steel heli's is stronger than aluminum heads. Now I just have to clean all the black silicone from the last person who installed the old rocker studs and get my valvetrain set on the motor. Timing cover, water pump, dampner, dynaspark needed on the front. Throw my headers, intake, and I'm ready to install. After I drop the K-member.

[MI6TA]

It's been a longgg time since I've updated this but I'm nearly finished now. All that's left is hooking up the harness, y pipe, 02 sensors, and button down the tranny/driveshaft. Hoping for 400 at the wheels!
29528

Custom steam pipe via Internet
29529

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/15/epy2yzuh.jpg

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[MI6TA]

Currently I need opinions on a/c delete possibility. The a/c system worked, but leaked, badly, like dead 2 days after recharge. Thinking of just leaving the compressor but u hooking all the a/c lines. It'll clean up the bay and save the $50 for a delete pulley. Anyone see anything wrong with this thought process?

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[Sahara54]

I spring for the delete pulley. That's a lot of weight off the front of the car.

[MI6TA]

Hmm I suppose the compressor weighs like 15 pounds. That's not too much of weight overall

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[SSlowBoat]

more like 20 lbs. dorman has a delete pulley at advance autoparts, you just have to use a couple washers to get it to sit good with the belt routing, its listed for cadillacs and caprices under the help! section. its $15 bux

[97firehawk]

I've been worried about the Dorman , isn't the pulley plastic? I'd be afraid I'd destroy .

[MI6TA]

hmm i might check that out... $15 is cheap. I ripped out the old a/c lines and condenser today, made it feel like I'm making a race car not a daily lol.

[MI6TA]

Success!! Hooked up the last bit of the harness this weekend, installed radiator and fans, Cai, filled oil and coolant, hooked up the electric water pump and got it to start! 10 months in the making and she started right up with a vengeance. Video contains the b word, heads up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-fwfUzaHno&feature=youtube_gdata_player

I couldn't be happier! All that's left now is Bleed brake and clutch lines and get the y pipe on. The driver side header seems to be bent upwards toward the body of the car so well need to bend it back down or something to get the y pipe on... Ideas?

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[MI6TA]

Started up the motor to do the initial break in. It's idling at 1k very well and I could hold it at 2k with no problems. The temp got up to 230 and no fans kicked on so I shut it down after 10 minutes. Golen says to run 2k for 20 minutes...

I got the pcm tuned by Solomon and noted for him to set the fan temp, so Idk what it's set at now but it should have kicked em on. The one fan will come on if I turn the AC on like it should but the other didn't go.

Also, the ultra pro mags are quite noisy... We just set them yesterday at a half turn, that's what the directions said to do, is that what yall are running?

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[popo8]

Thats awesome... make sure u didnt pop a fuse or need a fresh relay for the fan...

[MI6TA]

I checked fuses and they were OK, as for the relays they are hot but I didn't check them other than visual and the prongs look clean.

Now I'm having a misfire issue and it's constantly throwing p0336 crankshaft position sensor. The reduction wheel is woodruffed in and was in great condition upon rebuild. The wires right around the sensor are dirty but I don't see any knicks in the sheathing. Spark plug wires are new and all connected to both plugs and dynaspark, routed without touching headers. I've researched the code and Injuneer was saying there's been a link between the opti not getting a bright enough signal of either the cam or crank location and thus causing an intermittent miss here and there or something. I can get it in gear, with some difficulty, and get almost through first gear then it'll have a misfire and throw codes about the mass air flow and o2s and Evap, which has been deleted... I'm not sure what to do now

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[Injuneer]

The crank sensor is there for misfire detection. It uses the signal from the Opti to calculate where the ignition impulse should be and if it's not there it sets a misfire code. Your code indicates the CKP sensor duty cycle is out of range. That can indicate a CKP sensor problem, but it could also set if the cam position sensor signal from the Opti is erratic. I'm not sure, but a big enough cam can cause the CKP to report a misfire, but not sure if that could also cause the CKP sensor code to set.

What are the (exact numerical) codes you are getting? When you deleted the EVAP did you have the codes tuned out?

Stock fan settings are low speed at. 226°F, high speed at 235°F. What t'stat are you running? I would expect the fan temps to be set lower with a 160° t'stat.

[MI6TA]

The main code that always comes up is p0336 for the ckp sensor. The only other one I know off the top of my head is p0100 for the maf. It's also throwing some oxygen sensor codes in different locations, but off the top of my head I don't remember which banks they are. It idles fine, but under load it starts misfiring and jerking around. I wouldn't imagine the cam is big enough to do that its 227/235 .565/.579 110.
I'm not 100% positive that the evap was tuned out but it should have been since I've deleted evap, air, egr. Also the top 2 o2 sensors should have been tuned out because of the headers. I can find out the other codes probably tomorrow night.

Wow thats a really high temp for the fans... I was past 226* and they weren't on, I'll ask the tuner what he set them at. The thermostat is a brand new 180* I didn't want the motor to run at too low of a temp with the electric water pump.

[95albinobird]

hmm i might check that out... $15 is cheap. I ripped out the old a/c lines and condenser today, made it feel like I'm making a race car not a daily lol.
call me a pussy but there is NO WAY i would take ac off a dd in fla i don't care if it took off 100 pounds.
are you high?
i will never go without a/c again,even if i built a race car i would be running the 1/4 mi with the windows up and the ac blowing full blast.:cool:

[MI6TA]

Haha believe it or not, I've lived in florida all my life and have only had 1 car with half way working a/c. I just deal with it... Plus the gf's car has great a/c and I steal that every now and then

[MI6TA]

OK it turns out trying to take a short cut and not have to extend the o2 harness by plugging in to the second o2 sensor connector, was a mistake. Now that I realized that I was plugged in to the o2 sensors that are no longer read by the pcm I made the necessary exchange and the car is sort of driveable!
I can get around town with it how ever it's still got issues when I open up the throttle. It'll backfire, and idle rough sometimes and won't haul ass when it should.
I'm throwing p0100 maf, p0101 map, p0336 crankshaft position sensor, and the Evap but I removed all the Evap stuff and forgot to get it tuned out.
I'm thinking that the maf and map aren't reading right so when I open up the throttle the pcm doesn't know what to do and thus too much gas and boom backfire. Don't know where to start in repairing this issue though please help me get it daily-able!

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